Precision 7510 Owner's Thread

Hi friends,

My 7510 (with USB C) is under delivery and soon it will be with me.

I am single user and will use one display monitor only.

I want to place an order for Docking system also.

Please suggest me the latest, better and advance one from below link.

I am new to Dock and need your suggestion.

http://accessories.dell.com/sna/category.aspx?c=us&l=en&s=dhs&cs=19&category_id=5441&~ck=bt&p=1

Waiting for suggestion.

 

From a different angle:

I'm not knowledgeable about docks and will be facing the same situation soon, but dual monitor. The 7510 is compatible with the old E-series docks. I started looking on ebay for a used unit. The logic being, an older dock with dual DVI-D is sufficient for a setup without 4k displays. IMO, in an era of wireless AC, wireless printing, NASes, and combined mouse/KB wireless dongles, the number and variety of ports isn't critical anymore. It's the convenience.

A spacer will possibly be needed. But there are so many old docks floating, prices are low.

My 2 cents.

 

I would probably go with the latest and greatest, the TB15 Thunderbolt Dock. I would like to hear from a few who already have it if the issues are big or small. I've read of some having issues but I'm not sure how widespread those issues are or if they are a big deal or not.

I currently have a much older E Dock which works, but I don't require it (I only have one external display currently and my new precision can support at least 3 externals without a dock). So, currently without using a dock I connect 4 cables to my laptop (power, ethernet, miniDP, keyboard [mouse is usb to the keyboard] ). With the TB15 I would expect to only plug in two cables (TB15 usb-c, *240W power) *TB15 gives a max 130W power through that cable usb-c to the laptop. I'd need to plug in dedicated power to the laptop.

The older E dock would not require me to plug in any cables directly to the laptop. But it doesn't have the latest ports like thunderbolt, usb-c 3.1, etc. The E dock would also require this for our new 7000 precisioins... http://accessories.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&l=en&s=dhs&cs=19&sku=452-BBTR because the connector on our laptop is near the hinge instead of being in the middle... so the laptop when connected to the E dock takes up quite a bit of space because it sits further forward on my desk. Which is why I don't use it. Kindof wish they sold these with the Intel WiGig wifi card

 

To anyone that installed an m.2 drive (such as Samsung 950 pro) in their 7510, were you able to install Windows 10 (or even Windows 7) on this ssd in UEFI mode or did you end up installing in legacy mode?

I have been on support with dell for the better part of 4 hours trying to get windows 10 to install in UEFI mode. I received a Windows 10 USB key in the mail from dell that I am using. The BIOS sees the samsung drive, with the latest firmware I am able to test the drive successfully in the dell diagnostics utility and I am also able to see the disk with diskpart in the command prompt within the Windows 10 setup utility. However in the F12 boot menu the hard drive is not listed under the UEFI BOOT group. If legacy mode is turned on it does appear in the Legacy Mode group.

In our attempts to install in UEFI mode, we've used dispart to clean and convert gpt. We've tried both sata settings in bios, AHCI and RAID. We've tried legacy options roms enabled and disabled. We also tried secure boot enabled and disabled.

The error we get on the Windows 10 'Reset this PC' screen is 'Unable to reset your PC. A required drive partition is missing.' At this point I'm waiting (up to 24 hours) for a higher level dell tech to contact me, but I would really like to get this going sooner if possible.

 

I installed on a 7710 with AHCI on the Samsung 950. I used the MS download and not the Dell. In Bios I had UEFI, Secure Boot, and AHCI set. Booted from the MS Win 10 Pro USB created by the MS media creator tool.

The system came with a PCIe with win 10 pro installed and the bios set to RAID. If I put that in with the bios set to AHCI, i get the windows blues screen with the error message (I think the required partition is missing).

Maybe try resetting the bios to factory defualt, set to AHCI, UEIF, and secure boot and use the MS tool to create the bootable USB.

 

I installed on a 7710 with AHCI on the Samsung 950. I used the MS download and not the Dell. In Bios I had UEFI, Secure Boot, and AHCI set. Booted from the MS Win 10 Pro USB created by the MS media creator tool.

The system came with a PCIe with win 10 pro installed and the bios set to RAID. If I put that in with the bios set to AHCI, i get the windows blues screen with the error message (I think the required partition is missing).

Maybe try resetting the bios, set to AHCI, UEIF, and secure boot and use the MS tool to create the bootable USB.

 

Thanks, I will try this.

A couple questions though, where did you get the MS download you mention? If you mean a commercial version of Win 10, where did you get the product key to use? I understand that the Dell USB key installer looks at the bios/UEFI to determine the windows product key.

 

Here is the link.

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

The key embedded on your system should work. Even if your system came with win 7, that should still allow you to install and not ask for a key.

My system came with win 10. Using the MS USB, it did not ask for a key.

 

Yay! Purchasing not only accepted my request for a 7510, they actually made upgrades to my spec! I had been worried about stingy IT purchasing so spec'd bottom end on RAM and disk, planning to pay out of pocket for these upgrades on my own. They even upgraded the 6820HQ to Xeon-1505M (maybe not an upgrade for some workloads, but if you had told me in 1996 that I'd be rocking a laptop with a quad Xeon in 20 years, I would have shat my Jncos).

My build shall be:

Xeon 1505M
16GB RAM (which I will upgrade to 32)
Quadro M1000M
256GB M.2 Drive (Which I will back with a 512GB SATA SSD)
FHD IPS
Backlit KB
USB-C


For those that care (no one?) I will be using it for:
iBwave
Revit
AutoCAD
Windcatcher
MapInfo
Skyrim...

 

If you can boot the drive in legacy and not in UEFI mode, then you have a legacy Windows install. You can't flip flop after the install without doing some work.

Here's the kicker --- if you boot the Windows install media in legacy mode, it will do a legacy install. If you boot the Windows install media in UEFI mode, it will do a UEFI install. When you press F12 to boot the install media on these machines, it will offer *both choices* so picking the wrong one by accident is easy. Make sure you select the UEFI boot option to boot the Windows install media.

If you don't see UEFI boot specifically as an option to boot the Windows install media when you press F12 to select it, your media may not have been created properly. Use the tool from Microsoft to build it.