*** Official Sager NP8150/Clevo P150HM Owners Lounge ***

Regarding my temperature issues, they are actually quite fine. Lowest is around 37 C highest can be upper 40s, then the fan starts to surge. I noticed it usually does this when the GPU voltage goes from .85 to 1.00 V.

Very pleased with my purchase. Thanks to Xotic, LPC, Mythlogic and the rest for all the info regarding the laptop and your continuing support!

 

i think using throttlestop might work in order to access the open multipliers and change the cpu clocks

cheers

 

Hmm, I was under the impression that Clevo closed all of the loopholes.

I'm not even sure if the resellers are allowed to tell us whether ThrottleStop works on it.

 

thanks for the info.. i just wondered if in a pair with OC'ed 6970 to say 800/1000 it would not melt

 

hey guys, got a little heat issue here: im watching the game temps of my 485M at stock clocks with a big frown on my face, since the gpu reaches 97C while playing crysis (ambient temp in my room was 23-24C). thats ridiculous, especially since at that temp it starts throttling in order to stay below the gpu´s Tmax! already changed the stock paste to OCZ freeze and repasted it 4 times, using different application techniques and amounts of paste, nothing helped so far. also applied some pressure on the heatsinks of both cpu and gpu to make sure they both "stick" tightly to the chips. hopefully the IC diamond that i ordered will help out a bit....even though OCZ freeze should have around the same performance, according to several thermal paste reviews i saw online!

any suggestions? thanks in advance! (would also help if u guys could post ur temps with 485m cards at stock clocks when playing crysis at high settings for more than an hour!)

cheers

edit: i checked online to see if theres an expiration date on OCZ freeze, since i bought the tubes im using here like 2 years ago. got inconclusive info tho, some say only silicon based pastes would expire due to drying out, other sources state a shelf life of 24 months after first use for OCZ freeze. i guess will have to wait for IC Diamond to arrive and see if it makes any difference!

 

throttlestop didnt work with the previous models from sager (8690/8760).
i doubt it will work with the newer models

 

im assuming youve cleaned your fans and vents. so aside from getting the new paste, you could try propping up your laptop and using fn+1. ive hit low 90s in some games if i dont do this. but i live in the philippines and ambient room temps can be 26-30*c during daytime.

 

yup both the fans and the vents are clean (i mean, ive had this laptop for just a month now, there wasnt even anything to clean, really ^^) and yeah, ive seen other people posting temps in the 80s maxxed out without using any additional cooling, propping up or even fn+1, so how come mine is heating up this badly? even in ur case ur temps would just go up to the low 90s and thats in the phils (great country by the way, enjoyed my time there ;-) )! hm i really hope nothings wrong with the heatsink itself (like dents or improper / imprecise placement even tho nothing stood out so far), that would really suck!

 

i dont think anything is wrong. it could be caused by a number of reasons. maybe you were gaming for hours, maybe you werent using a flat surface, maybe crysis is too maxxed out, etc.
have you see game temps from another 8150 running crysis running for the same amount of time? maybe that would be your best comparison.
one thing is for sure, the 485m generates a large amount of heat. even the aw couldnt stuff it into their 17inch.

 

@ jaybee83

Check what Bios version you are using and make sure you are using the latest Nvidia GPU Drivers, and that they downclock correctly. Your higher fan RPM should activate way before it is able to get to 98C. My laptop can reach 90C in Crysis on standard fan settings but stays around 83C with FN+1. I don't think Diamond thermal paste will make a difference other than being more difficult to remove in the future.

I find success using the line method of application by the way.

 

the laptop is sitting on my desk with no obstructions near the exhaust vents, surface is flat and made of wood. been playing crysis on high settings averaging 30-60 fps for approx. one hour without fn+1 and gpu maxxed out at 97C. doing another one hour run with fn+1 enabled maxxed the gpu out at 94C. i remember hizzaah and thisisalamp posting temps while playing crysis and they were both waaay below mine. so either im doing something terribly wrong here or they just played for like 5 minutes before checking their temps? i dunno, its just that i get the feeling that everyone around me with a 485m has great temps whereas im stressing out to just keep it inside safe parameters!

im using BIOS revision 1.01.04, since 1.01.06 causes problems when trying to boot from my Corsair F90 SSD. EC is up to date in version 1.00.05, same with the Nvidia drivers (270.61). the rpm control kicks in correctly, ramping up the fans gradually, but even on fn+1 @ full speed i get up to 94C, which is worlds apart from ur 83C! u gaming on high settings as well? and how long have u been playing when u checked ur temps? are u using a notebook cooler? and whats ur ambient temp? thermal paste? while repasting ive tried applying it in single drop, multiple drops & line form and directly putting the heatsink in place and also using a credit card to equally distribute the paste on the chip`s surface. all these methods resulted in the same max temp without fn+1, namely 97C! so yeah, im pretty much out of options right now, hopes are still on the IC diamond to be honest...

thanks for ur input so far guys, please keep the ideas coming!

cheers

 

Ive made several mentions of the same temps on mine in the past month on here but the posts largely went ignored based off the responses. Crysis 2, running maxed at 30FPS, it reached ~96C. With a Zalman NC1000 cooler, it hangs around 88C.

 

@jaybee
iirc your gpu is overclocked, maybe you should do another run with stock clocks to see a comparison.
also, among every method considered short of using a good cooler, propping up you computers 'butt' is the best way to lower heat- even better than fn+1. if that doesnt work, prop it up and use fn+1 simultaneously. i do that when i feel temps are in the high 80's and could potentially go into the 90s

 

okay! yeah, unfortunately, inside such a huge thread important infos like that can be overlooked quite easily! so it really looks like in some cases (for whatever reasons), this gpu just heats up way more than in others even tho the same conditions are applied!

the temps i stated before were actually at stock clocks. the clocks in my sig were just the ones i used for benchmarking, im not running them 24/7. wanted to "fix" this heat issue first before implementing any OCing! i will definitely try the propping up thingy (even tho imho a 2k+ € laptop should be able to handle the heat at stock settings without any kinda mods by the user!) and then maybe get myself a passive notebook cooler. ill come back with more results once ive tried that and also applied IC diamond! thanks again for the input so far guys, thats exactly the kinda thing a forum like this is best for

cheers

edit: ok, wow! i expected the propping up to help a BIT, but this is just crazy: one hour crysis at stock clocks / high settings / fn+1 enabled resulted in a max gpu temp of 73C!!!! thats 21C LOWER than before and that at an ambient temp 2C higher this time! (25C) 10 minutes furmark at maximum settings gave me a 84C max, still way below the 97C i had before, really great +1 rep for trvelbug, uve defintely earned it for sticking to ur idea i basically just put a small leathercase from my in-ear headphones right under the laptops middle rear and that pretty much did the trick! i guess i can now cancel the IC diamond order again and finally start some real OC testing

thanks again for all ur input guys!

 

@jaybee83
glad that helped. however there is something a noticed that may exlain why your having this 'heat issue' just recently.
since i live in a tropical country im always monitring heat, and i usually feel the air exhaust out the rear end when i dont want to alt-tab to check temps.
i noticed a few days ago that the exhaust level from the gpu port is lower than the cpu's. i noted it again last night while checking.
this was never the case before when i always noticed the air exhaust on the gpu side blowing much harder (and warmer) than on the cpu side.
although i cant definitely verify it as the cause, the only thing that i can figure out is the new 270.61 drivers are revving it at a lower speed even on fn+1.
i dont have the time nor inclination to test it vs the stock driver, but you may want to look further into this...

 

Does anyone know how to re-enable the subwoofer?

I installed the R259 drivers from Realtek's site, and now the subwoofer doesn't seem to register regardless of Windows sound or Realtek sound settings.

I can hear it when my Razer Carcharias headset is plugged, however.

 

I don't recall, I had a tech at XoticPC helping me out. I did find the problem then the weird sound came back in my camcorder videos so I disabled the ffdshow codec using that Wizard from Micro$oft and it's all good now.
1080p60p videos take a real toll on any system, can't wait to start editing them.

 

hm, interesting find. ill look into this and check the stock 265.77 driver for comparison.

cheers

 

@ jaybee83

Glad you found the propping up to work for you. I also found the same but put it down to coincidence. I figured there was no way propping up my laptop could result in such a drastic lower temp.

I noticed lower temps after using the Zalman NC3000S, even when it had been switched off, but slightly higher temps on the older Zalman NC2000.

The difference is that the NC3000S raises the back of the laptop a lot more than the 2000.I find gaming with the laptop on a flat table to produce higher temps than when it is propped up. Looks like it was no coincidence judging from what you have discovered.

 

I know this is an old post, but I got to say something. It look like it would break my back if I had to carry the x7200. If I ever get one, I don't think I be carrying that everywhere like the one I am using now.

 

Ok so I flashed my GTX 485M bios to the overvolted one posted some pages back. The flashing went well and it operates at 1.03V at max. However, there wasnt that much more headroom for OCing.

I ran 3dmark11 and vantage.

As you can see my clocks are 740/1480/1680. My old clocks for benchmark were 710/1420/1700. Dont know why I couldnt do 1700 on the memory with the OV bios. Maybe because of the +30 on the core/shader?

EDIT: I tried 700/1400/1670 playing crysis 2 and it crashed after 15min and I had to hard reboot. My stable OC is 680/1360/1670 with the orginal 1.00V bios. In other words, I didnt benefit much from upping the voltage. Temps increased by a couple celsius.

 

so stable oc while gaming is 680 even with volt tweak you can t game at 700 or 700+

 

i just got around 9% stable OC off my 485M @625 / 1250 / 1640 (core / shader / mem), tested under extreme burn-in mode in furmark for 20 minutes. also modded my idle clocks to the lowest possible values in order to save battery & reduce noise during everyday stuff

cheers

 

Ppare

What's the lowest you've been able to get?

I was able to do 15/30/60 without apparent problems

 

yup im actually more interested in downclocking the 485m than an o/c now.
what clocks and how much battery life were you able to save?

 

For me the lowest i got was 15/30/60 (core / shader / mem), It brought my temps down into the mid high thirties compared to the lower mid forties. As for battery life I have yet to test it out, will check it out when i get the chance though.

 

Hello! I have a problem with my Sager NP 8130. Sometimes when the laptop enters sleep mode, it won't wake up! I have to press the power button to shut it down and restart it again! What's wrong with my laptop?

Any solutions?

 

i think i had this 'issue' when i first recieved my laptop.
check the advanced option in your power settings. the laptop is probably set to sleep/hibernate and wake on pressing the power on button. a light tap of the power on button should wake from sleep/hibernation.
alternatively, you could just change the settings to wake when the lid is opened.

 

impressive! are these the clocks for the minimum idle state? (P12 state)

i could go down to the following clocks without getting any display artefacts:

Core / Shader / Memory

minimum idle (P12) - 25 / 50 / 80
active idle (P8) - 35 / 70 / 120
3D & full load (P0) - 70 / 140 / 324

strangely, Nvidia Inspector wouldnt let me go down further on the memory clocks in the P0 state, but i guess these values are already preeeetty low ^^ also made two shortcuts so i could switch between powersaving and OC/gaming clocks on-the-fly. havent tested battery life yet tho!

btw, i have this weird thing that windows doesnt give me any estimate on the remaining battery life, just shows the percentage. any of u guys encountered this before?

cheers

 

i have a few things i dont get?
1-how to get high cpu speed?
2-lower the fan down little?
3-where can i get newer bios and drivers?
4-where can i find all fn key?

 

1. Get a better CPU
2. Can't
3. Here and Here

 

wat about turbo boot how do to that? in the bios?

 

Turbo boost is enabled by default. In order to see when TB is active, download the Intel Turbo Boost Technology Monitor widget here.

 

I have the same problem with sleep/hibernation mode.

The screen goes black but the HDD keeps working and the laptop cannot fully sleep/hibenate (hard reset is required)

I saw the problem discussed already in couple of forums (but none of the solutions work - I have tried MS hotfix for hibernate problem, adjusting power plan various parameters, switching of particular devices and unistalling various programs)

Could anybody help or does anybody know whether this problem is just yet unsloved ?

Totally dissapointed with: CLEVO P150HM/FHD Matte/Core i7 2829 QM/ GTX 485M/16 GB DDR3/ 500GB/4GB Hybrid Segate

Currently using: m860TU/qx9300/260 GTXm/4gb/500Gb

 

Mine came in yesterday while I was at work; installed Windows during the night and just finally finished getting my WoW and Steam stuff transfered over (still got to transfer over my EA stuff... ugh).

Only hitch I've had so far was getting Windows 7 to install; BIOS would see the usb stick fine, but the Windows installer wanted the USB 3.0 driver and wasn't happy with the ones on the CD (as far as I could figure out). Burnt the installer to a DVD, installed fine.

Not sure what the talk about the fan noise is; I barely notice it, but I'm coming from an Asus G51VX and Alienware m17x-R1 that both sounded like small aircraft... and that was without playing any games. I have the unit sitting on my coolmat now and plan on playing for a bit, looking forward to it (although the numpad is taking some getting used to).

 

when all else fails, reinstall windows

 

Check recent post about surging fans: http://forum.notebookreview.com/sager-clevo/564706-8150-fan-turns-off-short-bursts-even-while-idling-7.html#post7455300

 

Sometimes, sleep/hibernate issues are a graphics driver issue.

So, if you haven't tried changing the Nvidia driver, give it a shot. Otherwise, reinstalling Windows won't kill you.

 

I was using those clocks while running a youtube video at 480p, while looking up lyrics and had no issues, but after I pulled up hd tuner to check temps I accidentally pressed apply clocks again, got flickers and had to restart. I ran those clocks stable for about two hours total before the accidental press. Haven't tried them since last night.

For batterylife Im using a seperate app to read it, not by the lappy right now, but will post it when I get home.

 

interesting. ive only used nbitor/nvflash before and the different power states were different from the p states used in nvidia inspector.
do you have a link that explains the parameters of usage for the different p states ie i have a few nle's and gpu accelerated media players, what p-states would they use? also what p-state would flash use?
also, i lowered my maximum processor state (in power options) to 50% on battery. havent had time to test it though.
if you got the time maybe you could test your nv inspectors downclock on battery with and w/o the 50% maximum power state. im not sure, but im hoping those two combined can give us at least 30mins more.

 

mine never gave me a time estimate either.. only percentage

 

Osiris Development - BatteryBar, the most accurate battery meter for Windows

 

I prefer BatteryCare.

It's a small footprint app, which give you time remaining, and can be set to auto-switch your power plan, when you go from AC to battery.

 

Wow, nice find, never heard of it. The temps got me sold.

You good sir deserve a +1

 

Hey just wondering how people are doing with the heat for the np8150 with the 485 or 6970. Has anyone been playing games consistently for very long hours on end and have they found the notebook staying cool. Also are games getting any drop in fps over long periods of playing?

 

BatteryBar has a small footprint and also will auto switch your power plan. Never heard of BatteryCare, but probably does the same stuff.

 

are there any fn buttons that is hidden that i not aware of?

 

while backing up some files to external drive i noticed that when i used the usb 3 port nearest to the back i get usb 3 speeds but when i switched to the other usb 3 port i ge usb 2 speeds.
of course it could be my external enclosure at fault here but would any of you guys mind checking this out?

edit : i think it is indeed my enclosure at fault. sorry for the false alarm.

 

unfortunately, nibitor in its current version 6.02 doesnt support the 485m bios just yet, otherwise i would have flashed my custom bios already! on the other hand, nvidia inspector is actually much more practical since u can switch clocks on-the-fly through shortcuts!
i dont have any info sources on the p-states, but based on my experience so far these states are dependent on the gpu load. thus, on windows desktop with minimum load it prefers P12 state, when editing images or watching youtube-videos / movies it would switch between the P8 and P0 states periodically.

what does that setting actually change? does it limit the max. cpu load to the value specified? i was planning to check and see how much extra battery life i would get with my new inspector clocks versus the stock settings in idle / medium / max load. ill come back with numbers once i get around to it!

huh, good to know im not the only one with this "glitch". but yeah, i already downloaded batteryeater, also gonna check batterycare and batterybar, thanks for the links!

Cheers

 

i was actually very interested when you said you could switch on the fly. the problem with nbitor/nvflash is the changes are permanent (until the next flash) and the risk of bricking your gpu or even the whole system.
i really havent done a thorough check yet but iirc the lowest state is 73ghz (idle, browsing even with flash), 385ghz (gpu accelerated video?), and 545ghz (games, nle). cmiiw of course.
if my observations are right (flash uses p12, wmp and vlc operate in this state) i plan to set the p12 at the minimum you recommend and leave the others at stock.
i dont wanna go switching on the fly as i might forget to switch back and forth.