**Official Clevo W150ERQ / Sager NP6165 Owner's Lounge**

Sounds like the screws are stripped, you can use a pair of pliers and try to unscrew while pulling the screw up.
That plastic insert is what holds the drive in place in it's slot

 

ok i did a little more research. the screws arent stripped but are called "JIS" japanese industry standard screws. It is commonly used on Japanese electronics such as sony. they require a JIS screwdriver because a traditional phillips screwdriver wont do it. So im ordering a JIS screwdriver once i find the right size.

 

Can someone help me out here quick? I'm trying to install Windows 7 onto my new NP6165's SSD via USB flash drive and I keep on getting the error "Setup was unable to create a new system partition or locate an existing system partition." I've spent literally hours on this problem ugh. I've looked around the internet for solutions and they're all coming up blank for me.

1) Some say the problem lies in flash drives and SD cards left in the computer and Windows 7 installer trying to install on those small drives. Thing is, this is a new NP6165 and doesn't have anything connected to it at all except the one flash drive with the Windows 7 bootable USB.

2) Some say that having two or more hard drives confuses the installer. Like they said, I removed my HDD and left only my SSD in the computer. Nothing works.

3) Some say check ACHI in BIOS. It's on the whole time.

4) Some say the hard drive has to be first in the boot priority. I set it to be first, and doesn't work.

5) Some have said to try some command prompt stuff which I did to no avail (setting SSD to active, formatting it, etc)

6) Some say load up drivers during the installation. I did for the chipset and for the SSD firmware. Nothing.

Ugh I'm running out of ideas. One possible idea I found was copying the Windows 7 installer from the USB flash drive onto a partition of the SSD that I can create manually then running the installer from the SSD to the remaining partition, but I have no idea how to do this.

 

Make sure your BIOS is not set to "Win8" as OS. What BIOS & EC versions are showing?

 

Dark666apoc, did you remove the black padding from the CPU square of the heatsink? Idk what it is but I want to put a copper shim there and it will be partly covered by that padding, I wonder if it's a completely flat surface. I believe it's suppose to offer some sort of protection against TIM spread, if it gets on the silicon, it causes all sorts of heat issues.

 

Ok so update: The flash drive Windows 7 installation didn't work, so I had to connect a USB-optic drive to the laptop, install windows vista with a cd (didn't have a windows 7 cd nor a cd writer), then upgrade to Windows 7 using that same flash drive. Weird eh?

NEW PROBLEM! I installed all drivers using the cd that came with it, plus upgraded all NVIDIA drivers.

Hello! My laptop seems to have a billion programs that all affect the GPU so it's all kind of confusing. Anyways, my laptop has a 650M as well as an Intel HD Graphics 4000, but it seems to be suing the graphics 4000 for everything. In the NVIDIA control panel, I've already set the 3D settings to prefer the "High-performance NVIDIA processor" instead of the default "Auto-select" or the other option "Integrated graphics." Also, on my laptop there's a button labeled VGA that controls the NVIDIA optimus setting. I have it set so the VGA LED is orange, which according to the manual means that it is set to go between integrated GPU and the discreet GPU as shown when the dGPU and iGPU LEDs switch between themselves, rather than if it was green it would be locoked into the integrated GPU.

Problem is that according to MSI Afterburner, my GPU usage always stays at 0%, even though it recognizes the 650M. Here's a screenshot:


This was after playing Shogun 2 on the campaign map on medium everything for about 30 seconds, then alt tabbing out then grabbing a screenshot. So it seems thatboth the "Memory ****" and the "Core clock," whatever those is, drops down to 0 when I'm in the game, then rises back to 745 when I'm alt-tabbed out. You can see GPU usage stays at 0% throughout. Temperature rose slightly, but I'm playing in a very cold room for a very short time. Why is this happening?

NVIDIA drivers are the latest (310.90), again the 3D settings is set to High-performance, the NVIDIA optimus is on AND the light indicates that the GPU is working (orange light on the dGPU LED, rather than a green light on the iLED).

HELP!

Edit: Oh and I get around 50 FPS in League of Legends ultra everything except no shadows and like 10 FPS in medium Shogun no shadows. Is that normal 650M performance? Is the GPU worknig the whole time, so I can't really expect better performance from the card? Thing is, other people have reported SOLID fps in Shogun 2 ultra everything, so I'm almost absolutely sure it's my card.

 

I recently lost my AC adapter for my Sager NP6165. I was wondering if anybody knows where I can purchase a replacement within Canada if possible. I know that I can buy directly from Sager but the shipping charges and brokerage fees will cost more than the adapter itself.

Thanks in advance

 

Hi

I own Clevo W150ERQ

I want to replace my current screen 1920x1080 MATT with 1600x900 MATT screen.
Any one done this ?
Will this screen work LG Philips LP156WD1 (TL)(B1) ?

Any help appreciated

 

You can just buy a normal universal laptop charger, 90/120watt chargers work fine and are more portable in fact.
The tough power should work and it's about 30 dollars on amazon


In regards to the foam shim thing, mine did not have any such thing, though it has 2 black plastic sheets around the edges of the block itself which I did remove.

Has anybody completely disassembled theirs? I had started to, but it seems there is one last screw UNDER the heatsink -.- which I did not want to take off again.

 

so i did drill some holes in my backplate of the w150er as well now and even without any extra copper heatsinks my temps dropped quite nice. i only did it cause whenever i played a bluray or other HD video's the fan would switch on quite frequently wich was very annoying when watching a movie hehe. now the temp dont get above 68 degrees orso wich is right below the point where the fan starts to spin up faster. So my question now is if i would add those extra copper heatsinks on the copper cooling pipes in the w150 will that drop my temps even further or not so much?. And if the answer is yes would you be so kind and post a link to a page that sells them and ships them to the netherlands as well? I looked at quite a few electronic parts stores here and no 1 sold these over here. I saw some pc shop onlin here that did but then they are quite expensive 8 pieces for like 18 euro orso :S thats a bit to much for me.

Thanx for any replies!

 

I don't recommend lapping the cpu XD, but the heatsink could be done without removing the black insulative triangles.

1mm was not good enough for the gap between the vRAM and the plate, ordering 1.5mm shims.

 

Well I lapped the heatsink(CPU side) & CPU heat die, but not the GPU side. The way I did it is with my finger and very fast motion, I tored off pieces of the sandpaper, enough to cover my finger and the entire CPU area of the heatsink and the CPU die, 10 minutes with each grain(320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500), and ended up with an extremely fine and shiny finish, though looking more like brushed aluminum. I also epoxied mini heatsinks such as Dark666 did, though I tested it before I did the lapping, and there was no difference in temperature.

I blotted the thermal paste with a clean rubber covering, only enough to cover the die.

Throttles and temps running Furmark & Prime95 for 20 mins before lapping:

CPU: Of course max temps, but throttled to 2600ghz.
GPU: 76C

After lapping:

CPU: throttled only to 2750mhz
GPU: 77C

more later.

 

Anybody know why I can't have 3 displays running at once on this thing?I either have to disable my built in display or one of the other 2.

 

Is the 3632qm supported?

And how did they manage a 10W lower TDP? Does this mean that at 3GHz 100% load with HT, it will consume approximately 35W?

edit: I believe those black adhesive triangle strips on the CPU heatsink square were actually protecting the package from what ever little heat that the air can conduct and I think the mini heatsinks are just keeping the heat on the pipe. I'm gonna order another heatsink and run some tests without the mini sinks on the CPU pipe and just the GPU side, since sadly they are Epoxied on there. I will still lap the heatsink with the triangle stickers still on there, it will take longer ;(.

Also ordered some Coollaboratory Liquid PRO, which supposedly is the next best to Indigo Xtreme which are liquid metal thermal compounds.

 

The concept behind adding mini ramsinks is to add more surface area to the copper which would then be able to disperse the heat across a larger area for air to cross over, short of you placin gthem horribly, or their being a blockage of airflow they should not cause ADDITIONAL heat.
If they added heat, there would be no need for penny mods which don't generally get additional fans or anything of the sort to keep a component from overheating. Seeing as how the old pennies(USA copper pennies) provide even less surface area than these ramsinks you can rest assured they are doing quite a bit more work than you are giving them credit for.

You can simply look up others results using minisinks in a laptop, it is a rather proven method...

Also for those who haven't heard, Prema mod 2.1 is up

 

thanks a lot for dark666apoc for his reference design on the placing of the minisinks , but i need to ask , how did you make the holes at the bottom of your laptop for more airflow ?

 

Yeah, that looks nice. I don't think I will do this though, I think more air is pulled out of the inside with the stock bottom panel, from example with the PCH temps(air having to be pulled through the heat fins, facing the direction of the vent that faces the user and the table diagonally). If tthis is the case, I'll get aluminum fins and face the grain towards this direction.

 

yeah, but I doubt a lousy epoxy job will show me virtually no difference between 10 mini heatsinks and 0 mini heatsinks.

btw.

1mm copper shim was not good enough for the gap between the vRAM and the plate, ordering 1.5mm shims for these, but the pch seems to have good contact, though.

 

My old dremel for the slats and a drill tip for the hols. It's not as clean as I would have liked, but since I moved I have limited tools at my disposal .

Original fan I had placed inside the laptop has in fact died again(it was dead and started working randomly) So I am looking for a replacement, unfortunately I doubt I'll be placing this one inside the laptop and be mounting it externally instead. Kind of worried about the mobility of that design.

 

I want to try mounting some right over the CPU on the bottom panel, just dremeling a nice fit hole and screw/nut it in, however I'm not sure there is enough space between the pipe and the panel, don't want the fan to be touching. 10mm is the thinnest I've seen on the 5v fan.

 

Yeah, you won't be able to fit it in there, though
http://forum.notebookreview.com/sag...er-np6110-clevo-w110er-first-look-review.html


You can try that, that's basically what I plan to do as well.If you use that idea make sure you give him rep

 

with the stock bottom panel(I think might have better inner air flow) gonna try again with 3 heatsinks mixed, the big aluminum ones will the for the CPU pipe, I'll stick them on the long side, where the air coming from the vents might blow through them. the copper ones will be for the GPU I can fit up to 4 without having issues with panel collision, and I'll fill in the rest with the tinier aluminum ones, and also mount these tiny ones to the copper ones, to give it more surface area and possibly better heat dissipation away from the GPU pipe.

Going to try Coollaboratory Liquid PRO, and if that doesn't work(if contact is not good enough), I'll try Gelid GC-Extreme.

Also hope the 1.5m shims fill in the rest of the gap on the vram.

http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Copper-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B00637X42A/
http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B007XACV8O/
http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-gaming-Cooling-Heatsinks/dp/B007XA969G/

 

dude i want upgrade my clevo w150erq what best DDR3 1600 ram? size about 8 gig

 

Is there a replacement fan I could buy from third-party OR would I have to go through Sager?

 

I just went through sager, when searching the model number you get 1 or 2 hits, but they look like the wrong fan.

Email them and they should send you a new one free of charge.

 

I had to buy my bottom panel and heatsinks, though.. They would send a new fan for free? :O

 

You altered your heatsink and bottom panel thus YOU pay to replace them.

 

But they couldn't know if did anything to them, same for the fan... the fan is not defective or broken, so I have a feeling they wouldn't replace it, or I'd have to send my entire laptop in to get it checked out. I just can't imagine any company sending parts for free.

 

I wonder if anyone had any FPS / benchmarks for their system and lotro?
My system was from cyberpower UK and has the following:
Gt650m 1gb gddr5
I7 3610m
8gb ram
40gb ocz SSD and 500gb HDD at 7200 rpm.

I get around 30 fps at 1080p with everything max inc. 16x AA.

Reason for asking a friend suggested I was getting below par from my rig but this was about what I was expecting.

3d mark11 score 2400 for reference.

Thanks if anyone can help, its the only game I'm really playing at moment so no other comparisons for me to make, its obviously a 7 yr old game so not exactly.the.most demanding.

 

with 3dmark 11 i get above 3000 points with the prema mod 2.1and a medium OC with the same specs as urs, only i have a samsung 840 Pro 120gb ssd. think it was around 3200 points

 

Second fan installed, just awaiting the prema OV 2.1 bios

Also, I'm probably going to make a steel shield for the back of the laptop lid(Went to DC and was terrified that it being in my bag would get damaged form teh weak plastic) 22gauge, not sure if I'm going to do a full bending fit, or just 3m a half rolled sheet on the back.

 

I'm thinking about buying a W150ER based laptop (XMG A502 to be exact) in about three months time and I have a couple of questions.

Will any drastic changes happen in the 15" Clevo based laptop tech in the three months?

If I do get a W150ER, can I have it plugged in and have it running without the battery being plugged in?
How good are the 1080p displays?
And, if I don't configure it with a second hard drive, will I get the rubber clamp thing (I saw in a hardware interchange video posted here) with it still, in case I ever want to get one later?

Thanks in advance.

 

Haven't been keeping up with the release of 7xx series gpus so I can't speak about the update in three months time, though there will be an updated model this year.

Yes, you can use it without the battery plugged in.
The 1080p display is Very nice, nicest I've seen on a laptop.(most desktops too)
Yes, you should still get the hold for the second hard drive. ( I only got 1 drive with mine.

 

To finish up your questions,

It's hard to say what will happen with the new lineup from Nvidia and Intel. Intel is a bit easier as it's generally accepted that the first release of haswell won't be a huge jump in performance nor power benefits. It'll be better, but not by leaps and bounds which is likely to happen with the second revision. For the GTX 7xx series, specs aren't officially released yet but some leaked ones from an international site doesn't show it too much different than the current GPUs, likely to be more power efficient, but I'm not 100% confident in the specs that were leaked.

 

So, if I get the laptop with a i5-3230, GT 650M, 1080p display, I wouldn't regret my purchase much in a year or so? I also really don't want to break the 800€ price point, so I believe that (as it was with the lower end 6xx series), that the cheaper 7xx series cards will just be renamed 6xx series cards? Correct me if I'm wrong, that's what I pieced together.

 

It's possible that will happen but really until final specs are released it's hard to say for sure. Right now all that is out there is speculation.

 

2.1 OV edition is out

Will post pics of my newest fan mod after it's installed

 

Post the pics man, you got me curious hahah.
:thumbsup:

 

New stands and fan fully mounted

Solder locations and cut out hard drive caddy mount

Angled fan to direct air over the cpu and gpu areas instead of straight down

Fan mounted (Mini dremel buffer pads glued under each section to angle the fan properly)
It's mounted with notches in the plastic panel VERY hard to get in xD

 

holy crap, that looks sweet, I wanted to do the same thing, but I don't think I'm skilled enough...I do have 3 cover panels to work with though....
lol, I just used a bunch of duct tape to raise the legs more, and I dremeled the vents a little bigger. looking into a low power fan to power by usb cause I do need the second sata port free.

 

i just drilled some extra holes in mine here and there and ordered 3 extra fans for my notepal u3 so that has 6 fans now and all is fine here i think hehe, what kind of temps you are getting now dark66apoc?

 

Now that it's summer temps here my temps are back at what they were during winter pre-mods. Which is what I was going for since I use this laptop outside quite a bit and Florida Summer is HELL for overclocking anything, I wanted to prevent having to under-clock my gpu and disable my turbo during summer gaming.

Currently my max temps in game with cpu turbo and gpu pegged in World of Tanks (+265 core) are around 68-72 depending on what time of day it is. CPU temps are about even with that.

 

thats awesome for the cpu then! mine still gets to 80 when i have the cpu on turbo and the gpu overclocked to +275 orso when gaming. my gpu is about the same as yours

 

Yeah, 70s is a very nice place to be, no worries there.

 

You guys are lucky to have an i7 Ivy bridge. Mine is a sandy and gets really hot, even lowering it to 1.8ghz. Just sucks =/

 

Sandy bridge temps we not typically higher the Ivy. What temps are you seeing. Consider opening it up and cleaning out the vents/fans or applying new thermal compound as long as your reseller allows doing so.

 

Yeah Sandy in my experience has always run a bit cooler than Ivy. It may just be dusty.

 

Hi everyone,

I'm looking at picking up a W150ERQ in the immediate future (Prema Mod kinda helped cement my decision between it and 3 other units). Does anyone sell them as barebone units (no CPU/RAM/HDD) besides RJTech? I haven't found anyone doing so, and I always feel it's best to get a second opinion on pricing. :thumbsup:

Also, I saw this asked earlier in the thread but without an answer, so I'll ask again... How much difference does the 95% screen actually make? My primary use is for software development, not gaming, so I'm pretty much ok with things not being quite as awe-inspiring in cinematic scenarios if I save $75. However, if it means significantly better color contrast, it's pretty much something I'll regret not upgrading. All the info I've found on the forum is quite dated. Are the panels still upgradeable these days if I start with the standard glossy and want to move to the 95% later?

Additionally, I noticed that many resellers have fairly pricey dead pixel warranties (and it seems only for 2 months at most, which is why it seems so pricey! ); are dead pixels a huge problem on these units? I saw a couple of people mention they had them; but not enough to determine a pattern. (Also, what is Clevo's warranty regarding dead pixels?)

And since everyone loves sharing specs , I plan to use a 3740QM CPU (again, software development which means lots of compiling and virtualization; plus, they're relatively cheap right now) with 16 GB RAM (probably only 1600 since I don't see much evidence that it'll utilize 1866 effectively, though I'd like evidence that I'm wrong here!) and a 120 GB Corsair Neutron GTX series SSD (these are some sexy SSDs, just sayin'). For the second drive bay, I'll probably stick in a 500 GB 10K RPM disk I have from a now-retired laptop's upgrade as "cold storage" and make sure Windows tries to keep it spun down.

Suggestions are welcome for configurations which might come out less than I can source the barebones + locally-purchased components for, but I went through a number of resellers and was consistently seeing that buying the SSD, CPU, and RAM locally is a huge savings (personally, I won't find value in someone else doing the component integration in this case). All I can see for saving build costs on this is if someone has the barebone kit for less than RJTech (including shipping/tax; i'm in California), however they really appear to be the only ones selling Clevo barebones kits.

OK. I guess that's enough rambling for me right now. I'll be patient to see what you guys have to say.

Update: I sat there crunching numbers for quite some time. I'm not sure I'll actually save much by building from barebones, since there is this nasty thing called "tax" which doesn't get assessed at purchase time if I buy pre-built from out-of-state. I've emailed a reseller to see what we can work out for a good build for my needs.

 

Yeah, typically the units are used for complete systems, you have to snag some good deals on ebay to make building yourself worth while or have some spares.

 

guys help.. where i can find WLAN driver RTL 8723AE for linux? iam using backtrack5 and os not detect wlan....can you help me?