**Official Clevo W150ERQ / Sager NP6165 Owner's Lounge**

hello i want upgrade my clevo w150erq with single 2TB HDD,what brand compatible with my clevo w150erq? thanks all

 

I think at this time ur only choice is this drive: Untitled Page

 

I would advise against that if you plan on putting it as the primary drive unless you really needed the storage room. Most 1TB and higher for notebooks are 5400RPM. The hard drive is the slowest part of any modern computer so getting the slowest hard drive made is going to make your computer feel a lot slower then it really is. The 6165 does have two hard drive bays so you can put it in as the second hard drive for storage.

 

Thats a 15mm Drive, that won't fit in really any bay, its too tall.. Also yea it'll be quite slow too.

 

I didnt look if it was too tall or whatever just had a quick look for a 2.5 2TB hdd i have a 750GB Momentus XT myself as second storage drive wich i use to store my Music cause i use this laptop for Dj-ing so i want also a faster disk then a normal 5400rpm. my third drive in the optical bay caddy is a slower one wich i only use to download stuff on etc. But yeah i would go for a 7200rpm myself as well for sure. but that wasnt the question that was asked hence my short answer with the link to that 2tb 2.5" hdd. Best option is what Xoticpc said use a fast ssd as main drive for windows and then a big slower disk for storage

 

Run 2 1TB in raid instead of running a single 2TB it's about the same price and should be significantly faster, can also use the cd hdd caddy to add a ssd still as a boot drive

 

The W150ERQ doesnt have RAID unfortunatly

 

Run as storage drives then xD, If I recall we have 0 and 1 that's it though, which I assume he's be running them in Raid 0

 

I know it's in here somewhere but I can't find how to force turbo mode on the cpu while gaming.
Can anyone help?

also, any info on when the next prema mod for us will be out?

 

Just download ThrottleStop and force the multiplier to Turbo.

I don't think Prema has mentioned 2.0 lately, but I believe that's the next release for W150ER.

 

He is a hard workin man

 

THANK YOU, I could not for the life of me remember that program I'd been playing with set fsb like a moron xD

I know he is, he's got what seven other laptops going now? xD
Just hadn't heard anything, and doing a lot of cooling mods lately to see what I can achieve.

 

Have you come up with anything specifically for the W150ER?

 

Hi all,
I just upgraded my 6165 to W8 and updated all the drivers using the Sager websites lasted drivers. I have one major problem left to solve: no sound at all.
I've tried searching both this thread and elsewhere but I can't find a solution that works.
My problem is that I have two listings in the Device Manager for sound; High Definition Audio Device and VIA High Definition Audio.
The VIA HD Audio is listed as working properly in the Properties section but the other has this message: Location 3 (Internal High Definition Audio Bus) "This device cannot start. (Code 10) {Operation Failed} The requested operation was unsuccessful."
I have tried updating the audio drivers several times,trying to look internally and on the Web and have done multiple uninstalls and re-boots with no luck. Does anyone have any ideas? Should I install an older driver?

 

Ignore sgfdvdvzvc

 

Not sure what your problem is with the audio, Everything but my thumbprint reader is working great in W8.

As far as modded cooling, I have the mini sinks and slotted bottom panel, thinking about getting rid of the cd bay and adding a 40 x 10mm fan in the center hdd slot to get more airflow.

Now the cpu doesn't go past 80 with turbo boost with p95, still want to go further though. GPU never goes above 72 on furmark. That's with both running at once

 

T

How do you slot the bottom panel. What thermal compound do you use and how do you apply it?

Try P95 + Furmark with ThrottleStop forced Turbo Boost and GPU clocks at 1100/2400, run it for 30 mins and tell me what the lowest CPU freq it reaches. Mines about 2.4ghz

 

My heatsinks are off right now, that said it throttles down to 2.8 without them, waiting till my thermal adhesive gets here to reapply and get rid of the thermal tape.

Dremmel/drill to bottom plate= slotted.

gpu 1117
mem 2450

 

nice thats bad temps. Just ordered a new Heatsink/Bottom Panel from Sager, then I will try slotting. I bent the heatsink pretty bad, which I believe might be causing bad heat transfer..I will treat the next one better .

So only slotted bottom panel for this test? Are you using stock thermal? I have PK-1

 

Stock IC diamond, will be replaced with antec 6, going to be using arctic alumina thermal adhesive, now to try and get the old tape off these mini-sinks -.-

 

I'm using the Sikusumi(I don't remember the name) thermal tape, it transfers just okay, but I'm afraid to try anything permanent.

 

So, contrary to what I previously thought, there is no 3rd hdd caddy for the cd bay( according to Sager), Can anybody verify that they have one? I also was unable to fin out the maximum amperage of the fan power, so if I do add a fan it will be run from the usb2.0 slot

Considering the "Copper mod" for the CPU temps, as well as a fan redirection mod with the old fan I have if I can get it spinning again. My new sinks and paste shoudl be here by next week, I'll take pics if you guys are interested.

If anybody can find an aluminum foil mod (coating the bottom panel with aluminum foil on the inside not the outside) Could you please link it?

After opening my girlfriends Vaio I saw the sheet aluminum mounted internally so I know they use it for a few laptops stock


Also found something interesting with the heatpipes... If I tilt my laptop backwards onto the screen(was feeling around for the dispersion of airflow along the bottom panel) ALL the heat sits in the GPU area it raised my gpu temps to 95C, WHILE the heatsink was blowing out cool fresh air, after placing it back down properly the heat went to the fins and started blowing DAMN hot... so just a bit of information for everyone.

 

You can buy 3rd party adapters that turn an optical bay into a HDD bay and they have changeable fronts on them so you can fit the bezel from your ODD.

 

Would you be able to link me to one that would be compatible? (paranoid of buying the wrong one)

Would this one work?
Amazon.com: NEW SATA 2nd HDD caddy for 12.7mm Universal CD/DVD-ROM: Computers & Accessories

 

They are all the same.

Make sure it's either a 12.7mm or 9.5mm one, the 9.5mm might sit a little loose though

The particular one you linked does NOT have any screws included, but that won't matter in the W150ERQ

 

So far I am seeing great gains with the copper mod on the vram, bridge, and cpu/gpu. as well as a re-paste with antec diamond, and new thermal adhesive sense the tape wasn't working(it fell off and was rattling inside my case -.-.

The paste they applied was EVERYWHERE, unfortunately there are also scorch marks on the contact area.
Note to people looking at buying this laptop, get the stock paste and re-paste yourself later.
The vram and bridge were being cooled via thermal tape, now have Antec Diamond and a plate of copper(copper had to be used as it did not fill the gap left by removing the thermal tape)

Let me know if you want pics.

 

High quality thermal pads should also do the job instead of paste/copper sandwiches for anyone else.

 

Can anyone label all the parts on the mobo .

 

CLEVO - Download

Go to the user manual area and select your model, download it and it should list all the user accessible parts and what they do.

 

Couldn't find it there, looking more or less for labeling of Motherboard components not user accessible parts.

 

What do you mean labeling of the mobo components?

 

Yeah, PCH, what I can put sinks on, remove and repaste, etc.

 

Well with the new heatsink and drilling holes on the old bottom panel at the fan..my CPU package never drops below 2800ghz now with P95 and furmark(1100/2400). Idk how you obtain CPU 80C max even with stock GPU clocks dark666.. However my GPU hovers around 67C max, so I'm thinking I could try to do a little worse paste job on that heatspreader to even out the temps.

 

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r159/dark666apoc/LaptopHeatsinksmodded_zps2c07e8f8.png

After fullmods
Still working on putting the fan mod into affect, going to run it on an old self splicing sata power connector off the 3.3 volt line of the hdd.

 

can i have the pics for your new mod , been trying to make a copper mod as well , also in your previous posts , you mentioned that your heatsink fell off , are the thermal tape not adhesive enough ? if so , i also bought a fujipoly thermal pad , will that be enough ?

 

I may have wiped my phone>,>, will check to see if I backed up the photos

Idk about the thermal pad, I got epoxy because I wanted to make sure that they weren't coming off even if I sell the thing.

The thermal adhesive I guess wasn't able to deal with the heat directly off the ivy processor so they came loose(only 2 of them did)

Have the fan installed, just curious as to why it's not running at full speed (Soldered onto the hdd 5 volt pins, tried on the 3 volt and it didn't even spin until I blew on it.) tested with a dmm to triple check and it's getting proper voltage, I know it's got the amperage to push the fan

EDIT: found pics, will upload tonight.

 

It's pretty simple, you just have to take all the 4 screws on the plastic part around the screen, then you just pull of the plastic using your fingers carefully, and take off the internal screws, disconnect the cable and take the lcd off.

 

Usually the best way took remove the plastic around the screen (once the screws are removed) is to hook your nails (carefully) between the LCD itself and the inside edge of the frame and gently pull it away.

 

help yesterday I cracked my sager 6165 laptop lcd is there a DIY tutorial for replacing them ? please.....

 

If i can convince my girlfriend to paint my lid for me I may be able to make a walk through for you about taking off and putting the LCD back on, assuming you already have the new screen to put in.

 

i have ordered my LCD will arrive soon,i hope if you can make walk through for me thanks

 

This is the video that helped me taking off my screen. Hope it helps you. Replacing LCD screen for Sager NP8130 laptopscreen.com - YouTube

 

What do I have to open to find the south/north bridge/intel PCH, it's reaching 86C after i "slotted" the bottom panel, i believe it might not be draining the hot air out of there efficiently.

 

The issue with slotting too much is that it takes away from the pulled in air that goes through the aluminum sink that covers the bridge/vram.

More will be cut once I fix the issue with my mod in fan not spinning at fullspeed >,<
After all the copper


Pre-spread (Forgot to take pics before i placed them down)


THIS is what the Ivy looked like before removing the IC Diamond they applied


GPU pre-cleaning

On the left side of this picture is the Bridge that is no longer getting adequate cooling, you need to get air passing through those aluminum fins, try using tape and testing to get the perfect amount cooling distribution.

 

Thanks alot! I blowed air through the fins and "Intel PCH" cooled down dramatically.

And nice, your mod looks great.. i just have 4 sinks on the gpu pipe, same sinks as yours. I also have heatsinks where you place all the copper planks.

Whats under the plate by the gpu. and what thickness shim or thermal pad should i buy that the plates will fit back on?

 

I use .025 inch shims, but you could go full 1mm I'm sure and get the same if not better results.

The Vram is around the GPU

 

Did you use epoxy after all?

looking at these shims btw:

Amazon.com: Gino 2 x 0.8mm Thick Heatsink Thermal Pad Copper Shim for Laptop CPU GPU: Computers & Accessories

 

Anybody else having trouble with the USB 3.0 ports on this? I have a USB 3.0 docking station I'm using, and the cable does not fit snuggly into either of the standard USB 3.0 ports. If I accidentally bump the cable Windows (7) losses connection to the device. I have tried a different USB 3.0 A-B cable with the same results, and this does not happen if I use the USB/eSATA combo port because that is a very snug fit. Strangely, I also have a USB 3.0 external drive and that works fine in any port.

 

I haven't had any issues with looseness. Definitely have tight fit issues with the esata one though.

I epoxied the minisinks, I did NOT epoxy the copper plates on nor should you, as you have to replace the thermal paste every so often.

 

Hi. first time poster here. I own a sager 6165 and recently bought a SSD. I want to sell the old hard drive but it comes with a plastic cover thats screwed on with 1-way screws. I can tighten it but it cant loosen it. Is there any way to remove the plastic cover?

thanks!