*** Official Clevo P870TM Owner's Lounge! ***

I have never had any issues with condensation in all of the years I have been doing this. I suppose it is possible in an excessively humid climate, but the portable AC unit I used for many years is also a dehumidifier. I think as long as you periodically check for condensation in a high humidity environment you should be fine.

This works extremely well for overclocked benching and you can go further with the overclock than you can using water cooling on a desktop. The AC unit keeps the CPU and GPU colder than ambient temperature water cooling. In fact, @Trafficante uses his portable AC unit on his water cooled desktop. He is pushing his 7980XE 18C/36T CPU to 5.1GHz perfectly stable this way. It also keeps everything else in the computer chassis nice and chilly, like VRMs and PCH, NVMe drives... you name it.

I uploaded this video to YouTube in 2012. Nothing has changed with the setup. I just use a grille over the AC outlet and set the laptop on the grille. If the bottom cover is not well ventilated, you can take it off for the benching session or mod the bottom cover to enhance air flow instead of removing it. On the P870, the bottom cover has plenty of ventilation already and it does not need to be removed, especially if you peel off the chintzy black plastic sight shields on the inside of the cover. You should get rid of those silly things anyhow. They are worthless.

 

Yep. This is why I use the term "conditioned air" - keeping humidity levels 50% or under would probably be adequate.

However, perhaps the differential between ambient and 'chilled' air going into the computer may also play a factor.

 

The other thing that works to your advantage is having the CPU and GPU and other stuff on the underside of the motherboard. In the unlikely event condensation does form, it is not going to have an opportunity puddle on the top side of the motherboard like it might have done on the old Alienware laptops I used to overclock on AC cooling. It never happened on those systems either, even with all of the components facing upward, directly under the keyboard.

That is where it all started. I've lost track of time now... like 2008-2009? Many hours at night on a business trip with Brother @Johnksss on the phone teaching me the ropes. I uploaded those photos to crappy image hosts (like ImageShack) that delete photos after a while and I wish I had some to share. Sadly, they are nowhere to be found any more.

I'd also like to see the old photos from @scook9 (aka @cookinwitdiesel today) with his chest freezer benching. Those also seem to have vanished.

 

I think the only thing that may be present a problem would be to warmer ambient air "leakage" that got into the system. Let's say the chilled air chills the entire laptop chassis, keyboard, display bezel, etc. If the ambient air is warmer, and it strikes the chilled chassis, keyboard, bezel, it will condense on those outside facing components (much like the glass of iced-tea has condensation on the outside). However, if that ambient air leaked inside and then struck a chilled component, I could see where condensation might occur.

However, with the fans and cooling system even on the Alienwares you mentioned, while it is theoretically possible, it seems very improbable... And your real-world experience most likely backs that up.

 

Have you measured what air temperature thats coming up from your AC unit (max effect)? As long the air is dry you can go pretty low on temp. It's the humid air thats will be the problem and not so much right below zero temp. It's even people who use their computer out below zero as long the air is dry. Almost same as you use a dehumidifier on the AC unit.

 

Hey... I found some.

Those from @scook9 are only thumbnails. Sorry they are not the large original images. The larger photo is one of my hotel benching photos.

 

LOL! Those were good posts. Glad my 50yr old memory hasn't slipped yet to forget them.

Who said anything posted on the internet lasts forever?

[EDIT] With you finding these pics... perhaps they do last forever! [/EDIT]

 

I never checked the air temps. I never needed to, since condensation never formed. I always checked periodically when I was traveling to more humid locations.

 

Would still be nice to know what temp can be reached when it run max

 

Well, the laptop idle temps were generally anywhere between 8°C and 12°C. The chilled air had to be pretty close to that since the thermal reading can never be colder than the air creating them. So, that's probably a reasonable estimate.

 

I love this two Especially the first one No AC just my U3 mod, lapped heatsink + Liquid metal and maxed fans. This will only be a wet dream for those with thin and flimsy



Edit. And I don't use a expencive tool for lapping. It's cheap. Damn cheap I'm a cheapo

 

tada... - http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...rk-thread-part-3.455435/page-363#post-6440029


@cookinwitdiesel M17xR2-?
@Johnksss

 

And, my... how some things have changed... dramatically. This was truly crazy overclocking back in the day. But, fast forward ~10 years later, and today's BGA turdbook lovers are (sadly) still impressed by these mickey mouse CPU clocks speeds in 2018, LOL. M17xR1 - Core 2 Quad Extreme QX9300 @ 4.2GHz...

And, check out those ATI Radeon 4870M CrossFried GPU core clocks, LOL. Barely higher than today's GPU idle clock speeds. DDR3-1333 RAM, too. Woo-hoo.

 

Psh has nothing on my x600m 50% overclock from 400Mhz to 600Mhz. Had my pentium m from 2ghz to 2.3Ghz too

 

Thanks but if I choose the app to load at windows start I still get the freezes... if I choose NOT to load at windows start everything is fine... what on earth happens with the app if it loads at windows start? where are the freezes are coming from?

I managed to get the bios files zipped but I don't have any clue in what order shall I use them (several bat files and exe files in there)... can you help me with that John... I don't want to risk bricking my new laptop.

Thank you !

P.S. : I noticed that the "Back /Stripe " option from the PC Keyboard LED does not work. I would like to turn the leds off and it does not work... also choosing any colour does not made a difference... the lid leds remain blue

P.S. : It seems like I get the freezes also when LaptopTools are set to start on Windows boot. It's true that I get fewer but I still get them. If I manually launch LaptopTools after windows boots up it's all fine. In fact the apps run perfectly fine as long as I load them up manually after windows boots up.

 

Hello P870TM1 owners,

For those who are running 4.7GHz or higher on all cores and have AIDA64 installed, I'm curious what your temps are for:

- Stress FPU only
- Stress cache only
- Stress CPU + cache + FPU

 

Kind reminder...
Can you please help me with this app?
Please upload it somewhere where we can all reach it?
Thank you !

 

Guys, I need your help in order to upgrade my P870TM-G bios

later edit : Nevermind, solved it

 

You may be looking at this the wrong way. Think of the glass that has condensation on the outside, or the chilled component. Hot air strikes it and condensation forms. But the important thing to take note of there, is the moisture is actually condensing out of the moisture rich hot air. The conditions under which invisible water vapor condenses into visible mists (steam, condensation, rain, clouds, etc.), depend on the ambient temperature, and the amount of water vapor in the air. Compared with cold air, warm air can hold more water vapor before becoming so saturated that condensation occurs. This means that hot air in general has more gas state (not condensed yet) water than cold air. This property explains why a cup of tea—*emits more visible steam on a cold winter morning than on a hot summer afternoon*.

So you have to look at the hot air as potential and cold air as the igniter, when it comes to condensation. And a chassis being full of hot air, is full of air that has great potential to condense when mixed with colder air. Rather it is hot air striking cold, or cold air striking hot, the end result is the same.

Most components in a computer are actually shedding heat off into the air, very few would chill under cooling, but if they did, air leaks of hot air into the chassis would have a low % of volume compared to the cold air at that point, so it might actually not form condensation. But you can be sure if your volume of hot air % is high inside your chassis (and since all the components continually replenish that hot air, you can be pretty sure it is); and you introduce colder enough air, it will condense. You're better off circulating the air then cooling it, if condensation is of concern... This is why many ACs come with de-humidification.

So hear is where it gets tricky. If the hot air inside your laptop already is low in humidity due to local environmental factors, and you introduce cold air, that also has been de-humidified; You then could get away with condensation not forming. Because as important as ambient temperature is to the equation, so is the amount of water vapor in the air... But the localized hot air compared to localized cold air, will always have more water vapor.

It's also important to understand one more thing, steam is condensation, evaporation is not. Evaporation is the process of introducing water vapors into the air, condensation is the process of returning those invisible vapors into visible water droplets. Evaporation is invisible, unless trapped by an object on which it collects, cools off, and turns into condensation. The steam from your tea is visible, and unless your tea is at a point of boiling; it really is not evaporating that much. So the steam you see is actually the air above your cup being heated by the hot tea, that hot air then immediately condenses, depending on how cold the air is around it. See? the cold air is causing the condensation there, If it was hot out,,, you would not see the steam...

 

More on the CONS for P870TM-G

On the P870DM-G the GTX 980 had an fixed thick (2 mm or so) copper plate underneath to cool off the ram... on the 1080 they put some pads and a very thin sheet of copper that bends all over and touches the SSD underneath... the result? well on the SATA SSD underneath the 1080 gets very hot, like 50-55C hot (idling) while gaming.... on the old laptop it was 36-40C max.

Right now I am thinking what can I put between the videocard and the SSD so I can keep the the so called heat spreader to touch the SSD and spread the heat... also to put some distance between them.

And PROS

I am still amazed how big an improvement is the sound card compared to the old one. It's true that I've skipped the DM2 and DM3 and I did not have a chance to compare with those but compared to my old DM it's a huge difference when it comes to headphones amplification.

Also, I have to revisit the 4k display and add some more impressions ... I was against 4k for so long because in many ways I find it quite useless on a 17 inch but now that I have it and used it for a while I can really appreciate the extra clarity and work space. Yeah, the windows rescaling still sucks but it got better compared to what it was 2 years ago. Gaming in 4k it's tricky because an 1080 is not quite powerful enough to push all the games in high or ultra settings and even if it works the noise that this laptop puts out it'ss intimidating.... you MUST wear headphones or else you will quit playing after 20 minutes because of the noise... Of course it depends on the room noise but when I play late at night and it's very quiet the fans at 60-63 db seem very very loud... definitely loud enough that it will upset someone trying to sleep or read in the same room.

Even if I read a lot of opinions where people were saying that you can put the monitor in FULL HD (1920x1080) and it will not suffer from scaling issues well...I am sorry to day but in my opinion it does... it definitely looks blurry compared to my 1080 IPS GSync display from my old P870DM-G... I did not had the time to go in depth on the issue... it might be windows fault but I switched a few times in windows, also in games and it wasn't pretty like I expected.

 

980M and I think 980 too had vram chips on the underside and the copper plate was screwed in via the x bracket. 1080 doesn't, but instead the core puts out nearly double the heat...

The DM had a mylar sheet under the GPUs which was probably to insulate the 2.5" drives from GPU heat. Though heat will radiate through and around it eventually.

A cooler pad and removing any foil blocking vents might cool the internals down

 

A thick copper plate would just act as a heat spreader, it would not impact temps.

 

It's not so much about the heat but the lack of airflow due to the thin copper heat spreader underneath the videocard that's not firmly attached to the videocard and it warps and bends getting in touch (or extremely close ) to the ssd underneath blocking airflow that should be between... air that comes from right front intake.

Did a lot of testing, managed to put some thin strip of packaging foam (2 mm thick) between the SSD and the ram heat spreader and after some gaming the SSD did not reach 53C anymore, it stayed at a cool 43C.

My problem now is that the packaging foam that I used kinda gets thinner over time due to heat... it does not melt or anything but due to heat and pressure it deforms... so I need to find something that's not thermally conductive, also semi soft, it can withstand 80-90C for long periods of time without deforming.

 

Swap the cards, the other supports the film and pushes it up.

 

I am afraid I don't quite understand what you mean? Swap what cards, I have only 1 video card?

 

Then move it to the other slot over night to help push in the back.

 

Just get something like this.

https://kingpincooling.com/collections/overclocking-supplies/products/flat-sheet-foam-insulation

You may be able to find it locally. And it does come in thinner sheets than the one on the bottom. which do not compress.

 

I'd avoid loading the machine with insulation.

 

I think you missunderstand

 

Next gen is looking rather disappointing if the plan is to revert to gimped mobile gpus.

Assuming this is situation enthusiasts may prefer a I9 offering with a 1080 (pref original revision(s) compatible with the tdp tweaker util.). Thats probably the path id go down

 

This would only work, yes, if you had the DM3 or KM1 version of the P870, with the 7700K, then you can update the bios for newer chips and do the CPU pin mod while keeping the old vbios.
The TM versions ship with a newer vbios which is not compatible. Of course this would be easier if someone were able to update the tweaker itself....

but I'd wait to see if those RTX 2080 Clevo 'leaked' systems are legit. Would still be nice to have a 1080 ti in a laptop rather than a 1080.....

 

Nope... Not legit.

Oops...did I just leak something?

 

I think the boat is perhaps more aptly called a sieve.

 

Hi. I am thinking about getting this Clevo model (870TM) from Hidevolution. I have just a few questions about the different options for LCD panels.

This panel "17.3 Full HD (1920x1080) 144Hz~9ms IPS-level 72% NTSC Matte Type Display". It says "IPS-level" does it mean that this panel is TN-type? I always thought this model of Clevo has IPS-type panel and NOT IPS-level. The reason for this fuss is because I enjoy using IPS much more.

Also, this panel "17.3 Full HD (1920x1080) LG IPS LED" is 60hz, am I correct?

Thanks.

 

The 60Hz is IPS, the 144Hz is AHVA, which is AU Optronics' version of the IPS technology.

 

Thanks. Is AHVA better than IPS color-wise? I dont really mind the response time, because I dont play games much nowadays, I am looking for how good the color quality is (contrast, brightness and sRGB aRGB value). Also what is your opinion on the "3K QHD (2560x1440) AUO 120Hz - 5ms - LED Matte Type Display (B173QTN01.4)"? Thanks again

 

This seems to be a good reference for distinguishing the three types of displays - IPS/AHVA/TN

https://www.pchardwarehelp.com/guides/lcd-panel-types.php

 

AHVA and PLS are AU Optronics and Samsung's versions respectively of LG's IPS technology.

The 1440p panel has banding and slow response times as well as bad contrast and not covering sRGB, I would not recommend it.

 

Thanks everybody. So it seems like the1080p 144hz AHVA suits my needs the most.

Oh, Can I have your opinion on the Asus GL703GX-DS74, I've heard that model has good color quality with higher refresh rate. Hidevolution also retails that model. Sorry I know this is off-topic. Thanks again.

 

Clevo owners are often "dyed in the wool" and won't give an iota of recommendation for other brands - especially laptops with "soldered" BGA CPU's, so it's better to ask for other brand opinions in a friendlier venue, like an owners lounge for the laptop make - or specific make and model you are interested in.

Search works pretty well here, keep the search string small to start and pick "title", like this:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/search/20621428/?q=Asus+GL703&o=relevance&c[title_only]=1

Usually there are only 1 Owner's Lounge, but often there are other threads started to discuss specific issues... here's the owners lounge for the Asus GL703:

Asus GL703 Owner's Lounge
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/asus-gl703-owners-lounge.820435/

But, you never know, sometimes it's fun to "rile up" those threads wearing "Clevo Blinders" and "LGA Hats", just 'ta watch'em jump around and holler.

 

It's usually the panel that has good colour and accuracy, not so much the chassis that it goes into.

Oh I'm sorry, I thought you liked getting the best information out there and letting people make up their own minds
;P

But seriously, Clevos are designed to come with customisable panel options to be changed by resellers so it's common a model has more than 3 different display options all supported in the stock firmware. You usually get the choice between 1080p and 4K, TN and IPS, lower refresh or higher.

The B173ZAN01 panel I have that goes into all the 17 inch Clevos including this thread's P870TM is gorgeous, IPS, 100% rgb, 400nit, but is 60Hz and ~30ms transition (so not that great for competitive fps/twitch shooters etc) , as an upgrade from the standard 1080p 60hz / 75hz. There's also the QHD 120Hz which gets mixed opinions but is a good fit for 1080 SLI

 

Thank you. I pulled the trigger on this clevo model. The waiting is killing me, probably 2 weeks

 

a wise choice me boy

 

I sure hope so daddy, because it costs me an arm and a leg

 

Ah the wait, not actually that long but it feels like eternity, good luck concentrating

 

Another poor soul falls to the "Clevo side of the Force"...
@Papusan :

@Erik Barone - Congrats on your new laptop

 

embrace the power of the LGA machine

 

Yeees. The more followers the better

@Erik Barone congrats on your purchase. P870 series Clevo is the nearest you can come desktop performance.

 

Unlimited powah!

 

petar's extra display.