*** Official Clevo P770ZM / Sager NP9772 and P770ZM-G / Sager NP9773 Owner's Lounge ***

Yes, at boot time the system bios polls the various display ports and offers them as ' a list to choose from' to the vbios. It's the vbios that has the final say and normally it'd have a priority list, such as VGA -> DVI -> LVDS -> eDP -> HDMI. So disabling the 'higher' displays should work for it to default to, for instance, HDMI as the first display-out port. Disconnecting the LVDS/eDP cable should have that effect, but only when setting the bios to any other mode than 'fast boot' (or whatever it's called in the specific bios). Reason is that this limited boot skips many checks, one of which is polling the ports; it will blindly assume the LVDS/eDP is there and output to that, regardless of whether an lcd is actually present.

 

An edited bios may have these settings exposed.

 

Where does Display Port (external) come in this sequence: VGA -> DVI -> LVDS -> eDP -> HDMI? I guess between eDP and HDMI, right? I wish it was before eDP.

 

Don't know, depends on the vbios, but would guess even after HDMI. The general idea is old tech -> new tech and internal -> external. Anyway, look in the bios for something that may indicate ' skip boot-time checks'; it it's there then disconnecting the lcd cable and disabling that bios option may very well work.

 

Ok, thanks for the info.

 

Hey i got a problem my screen for whatever reason yesterday flickered for a few seconds than got a weird pink hue and now it won't go away. Any ideas on what it could be? hopefully my gfx card isnt the problem, i was streaming and the stream was working just fine. if that's any help.

Also i get a weird kind of ghosting/burn in too.

ive been playing on it and every once and a while itll flicker and show the correct colors, but than just go back to pink.

 

Are you getting the same display issues if you hook it up to an external monitor? If you get the same problems on the monitor, then it might be the graphics card. If the image on the monitor looks fine, but the screen is still messed up, it is probably either the screen or the internal display cable.

 

Yeah i just hooked it up to my tv and it runs just fine on it, i think its the panel since no matter how much i open and close my screen or move it doesnt change it so the cable should be fine.
where would i find a replacement panel?
in a new development some of the pink went away but its like struggling to stay that way, with grainy horizontal lines (like a dying screen is the best way to describe it lol)

 

You're right, if it might be the cable it's possible that the issues might change as you tilt it.

You could use a program like AIDA64 to see what your screen model is, and you could purchase another one online. Or you could reach out to your reseller where you got the computer to find out how much it might be through them.

 

It worth checking it's seated correctly, it may be secure but slightly out.

 

Yeah i took it apart and made sure the cable was seated and it's in there pretty good, like i said earlier its kinda back to normal no ghosting and the pink is at a minimum now. Well i guess i have to hunt a panel down thanks for all the help, im glad its not my card lol

 

There is also a small chance it is the cable itself, not the display. You may want to examine the cable for defects or pinches that could interrupt the signal (just trying to save you money as a cable is cheaper than the display), especially since messing with the cable reduced the pink, something that doesn't normally happen if the display is dying!

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

Well it didn't change when I messed with it, it just recently started to "normalize" days later but the way it's acting, straining to stay white by flickering with horizontal lines and not being able to refresh quickly enough and leaving split images while moving the mouse around, and on my external display everything is perfectly fine.

Well it looks like my screen returned to normal, but for how long who knows lol

 

Hello!
I´m facing this rather curious issue with my p770zm.
Few months ago i was trying to update my nvidia drivers but right after installing it i got this blueish corrupted display with some words i couldnt make out of. Tried to restart but got the same screen again (thank god for system restore) Up then i thought it was the driver issue because just before they had released those notorious drivers that had a lot of people messed up their computers. So i gave them few months to fix those issues until i wind up reading about 365.19 and apparently how good it is compared to some of the earlier ones, tried to install it, (i couldnt do clean install for some reason) so i just ran with the basic one, but right after hitting that install button i was back at that corrupted blue screen. Restart, Restore - back in business again. Did some reading and went into safe mode with the Display Driver Unistaller and wiped out everything. Went back to windows and tried to install it fresh, but guess what, same freaking thing again.
Now ive reached to this point where i dont see any options to fix it myself but have to ask your help!
I would be very happy for any kind of suggestions.

 

What vbios are you using? You cannot go past 359, I believe, if you don't have a modded vbios. I don't know if that is true for g-sync as well... Hwid 13D7...

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

Ive installed both premabios and vbios.
Im currently on 353.62 - the one that came with the windows 10

 

Ok, which vbios, 1, 1.1 or 2. You'll need the most recent for it to work. Either that or something is interacting with win 10. Would you be willing to mod the desktop reference driver and disable secure boot and driver signature enforcement?

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

I´m not sure, how can i check it?

 

How long ago did you flash it? What does gpu-z say on it?

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

Maybe half a year ago.

 

I think the newest vbios was half that time. Try to flash to 2.0.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

Well, it turned out it was in fact vbios problem. I updated it and managed to install the latest nvidia drivers at last. Thank you for your help!

 

No problem! I had that issue too. Just trying to help!

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

Time to get back to the gaming Cool that you got it sorted. MXM cards can be tricky like that.

 

Guys, can anyone shed some light in this thread:

G.Skill 2800 MHz. RAM Doesn't work on P770DM/P750DM

 

Hey @ajc9988

i recently bought Thaiphoon Burner, too. Awesome programme. After some testing i managed to add XMP profiles to the sticks and just at this moment i managed to get 2400 MHz working. However i'm still not sure if the VDD-voltage is correctly set to 1.65 V. Is there any program you know of which reads it correctly?

For the record:
XMP1 profile 1 didn't work with my standard CPU-OC settings. After restart, everything was set back to standard by XTU. Then i only changed to XMP profile 1 (with standard CPU settings) and it worked! I now have to adapt my OC settings to the new Ram-speed. But at first: Lets try higher RAM-OC!

 

NICE! Happy to hear you found a stable setting, just remember, CPU OC is more important than the RAM... Next month I plan on spending much more time with the program.

Meanwhile, as to your question, I don't know of a program to read it on the fly here. Maybe someone else knows...

Edit: @Kommando - was that a profile in the XMP database? Try tightening and playing with the timings to make sure it is more stable, then attempt to get your stable OC back. Also, write down the actual ns for each category at 2133 from different programs (hwinfo comes to mind). start from there for what the timings look like at 2400 (the timings are always looser, but have a corollary on actual ns at the higher speed). Then loosen (or tighten) from there or check out the XMP database to find similar profiles that are on there. This can help find better stability for the OC CPU with the ram at the faster speed. Also, you can change the Vdd from 1.65 lower in increments of .05 if you want to run the ram with lower voltage (and it is able to). Just wanted to give some extra thoughts.

 

Odd, I've just installed 368.22 on original vbios on my P751ZM (Windows 8) without hitch. See Batman thread.

 

Hello guys, checking back on the forum after a long hiatus!
Super excited about the new 120Hz panels AUO is going to make! It does not show up on panelook just yet, but I dearly hope I can stick one into my 770ZM...
On an other note, anyone knows for sure if the higher wattage nvidia cards are compatible with the 770ZM or we need to stick to the standard MXM cards?
Also, anyone had delidding adventures with a 4790K (or possibly an 5775C) and got good results out of it (with or without the IHS put back on)?

 

Sure, me, @jaybee83 , @ajc9988 , @superkyle1721 , and @Mr. Fox (and maybe others) have delided our 4790k´s. On my end i can report an average drop of 12c. ajc9988 also lapped the ihs and heatsink so he should have a bigger drop.

You can´t do it without putting the ihs back on, the heatsink won´t make contact with the die. You´d have to make serious mods to make it work.

 

Right, but in may case i had not the original one, but the older premamod vbios.

 

Yeah, I figured that with the IHS back on is a lot simpler to do, and 12C drop already sounds great. I'm thinking using gelid extreme under the ihs and possibly liquid metal between the ihs and the heatsink, but I only want to put liquid metal on after a gpu upgrade. (and I'm just too scared to use LM under the IHS). Also, is that 12C drop in avx workload? What technique did u use for the delidding?

 

Nope, you should do it the other way around: CLU between the die and ihs, and regular paste between the ihs and heatsink. With regular paste on the die you´ll have a lower drop in temps, and with CLU between the ihs and heatsink you risk CLU spilling out as happened to @jaybee83 . If you still want to use CLU there make sure both surfaces make near perfect contact, otherwise you are risking a short-circuit.

I used the vice only method. Be sure to insulate the small electric components by the side of the die with some liquid electric tape, conformal coating, or plain nail varnish.

For my initial tests after deliding i used OCCT, Cinebench R15, wPrime2.10 and PoV-Ray, dont know if any of these use avx instructions.

 

Prime95 is avx from the easily accessible tests, yours are not afaik. I mostly use MD simulations that use avx2 extensively. Actually, I can put together a benchmark system if you are interested.
I'm thinking of using the metalPad version over the CLU for easier installation, but I haven't decided on anything yet. I don't have a vice, so I was planning on doing the razer method.

 

Ok, i could do Prime95 but since i didn´t do any tests with it before deliding i can´t give a number on the temperature drop after the delid, but it should be the same since all the tests i refered before had a 12c drop.

Does a 5 /10 min run suffice?

 

occt uses avx instructions iirc

Sent from my Huawei Mate 8 NXT-AL10

 

Looks like there is a 1440p 120Hz panel is in the offing too which is super exciting! It will be compatible with the 77xZM if it's eDP, right?

OCCT never heated up my cpu the same as Prime95, but P95 small is pretty extreme even among avx workloads...

 

its less about thermals than stability. occt is the perfect tool to finding oc/uv instabilities in the cpu. 20 min of large data set and u can be sure its rock stable even 1h p95 runs cant do that...

Sent from my Huawei Mate 8 NXT-AL10

 

It took a loooong time for me to figure out what is stable UV for me. A vmware virtual machine crunching numbers on all cores in the background combined with certain games caused some instability issues that nothing else had.

Also, is the 180W 980 compatible with the 77xZM?

 

Ok, here you go:



Prime95 28.9 small fft´s,10min run, 25c ambient temp, max fans, propped up, [email protected] static, 40x cache with -150mv offset. Could´ve done better ´cause still haven´t found the optimal SVID/VCCIN for [email protected] (left it at auto) and had VR Efficiency mode disabled.

 

Interesting! Thank you for the data!

 

do you guys think that epoxy resin would be a good solution to protect the electric parts under the IHS?

 

Would epoxy resin be a good choice to protect the electrical parts undet the IHS?

 

Anything thin and non conductive would work.

 

Anyone have experience with the razor method? Wondering how difficult and error-prone it is...

 

It's easier this generation as there are no surface mount parts on the top. Start with the corners and take your time.

 

What info would a reseller need to give me a price on a new/upgrade for my screen? I'm tired of my pink screen.

 

If you find out what model of panel it is you have you can always swap it for one with the same connector.

 

I took it completly apart to check the othe side of the cable. this is the number on the barcode of the panel lp173wf4-spd1

 

That is the LG IPS pannel... That is the best panel you can get.. Why do you say yours is pink? Talk to your reseller and get them to replace it.. obviously faulty if pink..