*** Official Clevo P770ZM / Sager NP9772 and P770ZM-G / Sager NP9773 Owner's Lounge ***

Thanks for the reply.
Just want to say thanks for all the YouTube videos, has helped me into deciding to buy this laptop.

If I was to solder anything onto the usb does that mean that usb connection will not work with the internal thing and what ever I plug into it at the same time?

I have found these 2 things on eBay not sure if they would work for me.
I only will have one SSD + 1tb hdd
Would really like to know if they would work, if so what would be the best type.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=351467595456&alt=web

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=261973928494&alt=web

Also what one should I pick with my build?
1600mhz is cheaper because it's on special
Is it worth spending that extra cash?
16GB DDR3 1600MHZ Memory $69.00
16GB DDR3-1866MHZ Memory $374.00

 

regarding the clock speed of your ram id say going with 1600 Mhz would be the best since it does very little for most tasks
this video should clear out some questions related to that :

 

The increase is only theoretically. Very few programs get a minor benefit from the increased bandwith.
For some additional numbers have a look here:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...s-2133-cl11-versus-vengeance-2133-cl11.745512

PS: If you want to use better memory. Buy it on your own. 2133 MHz Kits are priced at 100-150 €.
http://geizhals.de/?cat=ramddr3&xf=...4_8192~5828_DDR3~5831_SO-DIMM~254_2133#xf_top

 

Usually I advise it as the cherry on top of an already tricked out system to get the final % or 2.

 

For the record, after upgrading ethernet-drivers to Realtek 8.35.716.2014 (latest on Clevos site) I haven´t had a single crash after several hours in 7 Days to Die and Planetside 2. It seems Realtek 8.1.510.2013 caused some conflict.

 

I'd put your budget funds towards the GPU - CPU - SSD - then once you've got those maxed out then faster RAM as it will be the least noticeable performance boost upgrade.

 

great information, thx for letting us know

 

I've been encountering a new problem. Not sure if any other Windows 10 users have run into this:

After playing with Gsync settings for so long, and figuring out how to make it work in windowed, now I have a problem in W10. I did all that in W7.

With gsync enabled, my FPS caps at 20. I've tried with vsync on and off. I know gsync is in cause I have the indicator. I turn off Gsync and set to fixed refresh, and the FPS runs like normal. But for as long as gsync is enabled, my FPS is capped at 20.

My monitor refresh rate is 100% at 75Hz, as I check before running, during running, and after running. I can also tell by moving my mouse quickly that my refresh rate is definitely higher than 20

If I run full screen, Gsync works properly, but as I mentioned before, I always run windowed mode.

Anyone run into such things in Windows 10? If it helps, my windows is not activated.

 

I'd try playing around with the drivers as I think windowed g-sync is still a bit beta as it can have issues, also what titles are you testing?

 

You should be able to use the external USB as well if you solder to it.

But I found these two things if you want to make use of one of your M.2 slots.

M.2 to mPCIE Adapter
http://www.amazon.com/mSATA-Mini-SATA-NGFF-Adapter/dp/B00LSWLZUI

mPCIE to USB
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261973928494

So it would be a double adapter, but it should work. I may order them and see how it goes.

Edit: Nevermind that is not an M.2 to mPCIE. It's an M.2 to mSATA.

 

I ended up ordering a usb 3.0 90 degree angle adapter, not the best option but at least it will stop my g930 headset usb sticking out as far as it does.

http://ebay.com/itm/251901661347


I'm not sure if this type of card could work

http://ebay.com/itm/141731428256

 

Does anyone have an idea how to turn off the adaptive brightness on battery mode?

I noticed it only occurs when on battery mode, when I boot with adapter plugged in, the screen brightness remains the same.
I'm guessing this might be correlated with the fact that the nvidia 970M memory downclocks to half when you are on battery mode (plugging in adapter doesn't fix it, a reboot is required, just as with the adaptive brightness)

I'm guessing it's the clevo hotkey app or something.

 

Hello, i'm new here and recently i just bought the Sager NP9773 G-Sync with i7 4970K and GTX 980m. Okay the question is, is it okay for me to leave the Battery intact while i'm using the charging adapter and keep it fully charged? Is there any problem that will occurred when i'm doing that? I prefer the battery to be intact even when i'm using the charger but i afraid that it might causes a problem sooner or later. Having the battery intact make it feel solid and so the rubber leg on that battery can support the Laptop weight firmly on a table. TY

 

I think I understand you, I believe the battery is a "smart" one in that it cuts the current it intakes once it is fully charged. That being said if the laptop is not in use it would be wise to unplug it when not in use to preserve the batter. Idk really but countless bad laptop battery males be err on the side of caution, also this being a portable desktop it's likelynnot going to see much action away from a socket.

 

I was told by some friend exactly like this,that the battery will automatically will cut the current intakes once it is fully charged. I'm trying to google for answer until i found this Forum and hopefully i can clear my mind about this one small issue (yeah i'm kinda noob having to asked this thing). This is actually the 1st big investment on a Portable PC since that i had to travel a lot this year and so on and this thing help me a lot.

 

I get it, had to invest in one for computing intensive operations that I can take to and from a prospective job and having all my gear even before I know if it's a done deal was a needed ivestment.

 

The machine is thermally (battery not heated by inernal parts) and electrically designed properly (charge level managed properly), leave it in.

 

You should leave it in when you can, it will not hurt the battery as the computer stops it from overcharging. Many new models are even coming with a design where the battery is internal and not removed easily.

 

Okay thank you for the reply and clarification, have a good day

 

Just don't leave the machine in any extreme environments like a hot car.

 

I concur wholeheratedly.

 

Okay now i have a new problem, today my laptop beeping around 10 times(more or less) then it shutdown. What is the problem??

 

What did you do before that happened? Need moar information.

 

i just browsing the internet. That is it, nothing more, it suddenly beeping before shutting down,happen twice already. lel

 

Monitor heat levels. What's your ambient heat? Cpu temp? Gpu temp. It is a hardware safety shutdown trigger, but I don't know which one.

 

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It beeping with the caps, scroll and num lock light indicator flashing then it shut down after that. So weird~

 

i have undervolted mine and after getting some BSOD's,i found a stable voltage and stuff.2 days later,it restarts by itself during browsing interwebs(on chrome).i thought it may be the udnervolting still,so i upped it 5 volts.today it restarted once more under similar conditions.my cpu temps are below 50 degrees while browsing.
should i try to give it back bit by bit more volts?can this be due to undervolting too much?or that would be showing just a blue screen-type restart?
edit:i forgot to mention it was stable during gaming+youtube music and such stuff(altho i did get a BSOD once during normal gaming and stress testing,so i had tp up the voltage)

 

How does it react to BSOD ?
It restarts? And then it boots up again?

 

yeah when it had BSOD it rebooted by itself afterwards.but the last 3 days or so,it gotten 2 normal reboots and a BSOD(i put back 5 volts after each of those occurred)

 

Well my laptop is dead, wont start and cannot enter bios at all, already remove ram by pieces and still a no go so i will send for repair. Hopefully it can be repaired because having to spend $3000 for a new one is a total joke.

 

What did u did before it died? Undervolt? Oc?

 

Well none of the above, i was editing using Adobe Premiere and it happen to crash and restarting all over again and 21 beeps later it shutdown.

 

NVRAM is probably just corrupted.
Just remove AC adapter, battery and CMOS battery (usually below the keyboard) to reset it.
That's normal and it'll boot up just fine afterwards.

 

Hmm will try it after this, so what is NFLASH? How is it corrupted?

 

The NVRAM stores bios settings. BIOS, W10 and Intel XTU have write access to this area. If a setting fails it sometimes requires a reset. You can see the cmos battery location in the service manual (click my signature and browse to the 'important' section).

 

You can see cmos battery next to your heatsink (2nd M.2 slot).

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

 

Sadly it doesnt work, the beeping still happen and it shutdown afterwards

 

I have had my laptop 2 days and both days it has just turned its self off then restarted. Is this a win 10 problem or something else?

 

Happen to me like that, i already sent it back. Hope they can fix it.

 

One of the reasons I'm sticking with 8.1 for right now. Too many programs I want to use are buggy with 10

 

Windows 10 is a pile of **** to put it nicely... It's killed my Alienware M17x R4 twice (1 dead 970M and now 1 dead LCD) and I'm planning on staying far far away from it when I get the P771ZM hopefully... My advice ppl is to stay very far

 

Yom did you got my msg?

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

 

How did it kill the video card and lcd? Reason I ask is it may have done something similar. Certainly I will not use secure boot with it ever again...

 

GPU wise it's not so clear but definetly killed my LCD...

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...vers-are-killing-alienware-lcd-panels.779449/


@bigspin got your message.. I'm not too bothered by Skylake/GSync, P771ZM is good enough for me... I think the only thing I will miss out is TB3.1 and eGPU but it's fine for me... I cannot afford to buy a whole new system and I can't wait till october.... Have a bad gaming addicition lol and it's bad enough now with this busted system...

 

That is funny. After installing the second most recent Nvidia driver, had more driver crashes. Installed the most recent driver, crashed every time I opened the laptop. Started only showing splash screen on an external monitor. Now I'm checking hardware before sending it in, but I have a no boot situation similar to Aziz. I'm wondering if it is the driver or win 10. Visual inspection shows no physical damage of any components. I didn't know this was also happening to alienware as well! Looks like an rma is in my future after one more test...

 

Stay away from 10 ppl.. That thing + NVIDIA is a disaster currently waiting to happen!

 

Mate, how do you reset the CMOS on P77x? How easy is it if needed?

Thanks,
Tom

 

Extremely easy. Remove the bottom panel. It is right above the video card. No removing of components to get to it.

 

So you don't have to remove keyboard etc to get to it? Ughh that sounds good if true since its just as easy on the R4... How do you access the Keyboard RAM slots? Would be grateful if you can give me a rough idea...