*** Official Clevo P770ZM / Sager NP9772 and P770ZM-G / Sager NP9773 Owner's Lounge ***

It came to my attention that my laptop is acting strange. Namely when it´s been running for a few hours and after closing the lid and expecting it to shut down it will only restart itself, although all the control panel settings are set up properly. Other times it will shut down just fine after using it for a bit.
Does somebody know what may be causing it?

 

I also prefer GSYNC on but VSYNC off, and just use an FPS limiter in game. I used to compete in CS probably 10 years ago, was a WCG finalist, and vsync always always always caused very slight mouse input lag. It would be hard to tell in some games, but in CS where every millimeter is important, you can really tell.

It does, but not as much as people would think. I was able to stream 60fps @ 1080p when I had a 4790k / gtx970 PC, to which the CPU was moved to this laptop, and also maintain 120+ fps in any game I was streaming at that quality. The streaming software only captures 60 fps (or lower if you set it that way), but your game will run at whatever FPS it can with the resources the machine can provide. That is why if you watch some streams, you can see they are streaming at 30fps, but ingame their FPS overlay will show like 300+. Almost no impact on their end

 

Did you get it from a guy in Durham, NC?

So it will work in a non G-Sync version with the Prema BIOS?

If it does work, I just ordered an AHCI (paid $390), would you be interested in trading?

 

But there is no input lag with G-sync on and V-sync on. The input lag was due to V-sync waiting for next refresh. Since that no longer happens, no more input lag. But if turn off v-sync and turn on G-sync, input lag will be apparent above the refresh of the LCD. You can limit FPS cap, but have to be aware that it might make it worse if it's right at refresh of LCD.

I found this article particularly informative, especially CS:GO with regards to FPS and input lag:
http://www.blurbusters.com/gsync/preview2/

 

This makes no sense. If anything, input lag is reduced as you go higher in FPS.

Linus did the same test and couldn't reach any definitive conclusion as results were all over the place

 

There's so much mis-information in this thread about G-Sync :/
Here's what I've learned over time and studying how VBLANK works (as well as having a G-Sync monitor).

1) G-Sync overrides any in-game V-Sync setting. Setting V-Sync in game to on or off does absolutely nothing. This is because G-Sync is a very different beast and drives the display very differently. The display no longer operates under the usual refresh-rate model. It is now limited by the "minimum time to VBLANK", this time can then be extrapolated to an effective "refresh-rate" cap (ie 1 second / minimum frame-time). Once your frame-times drop below this number (ie you exceed the "refresh-rate") the you're effectively running a frame-rate limiter. The difference here, is unlike V-Sync where your frame-times have to be exactly in sync with the display (creating input lag), G-Sync will deal with a slightly higher frame-time much more gracefully rather than delaying frames further. EDIT: This kind of issue occurs with S/PDIF audio where you get jitter due to device clocks running out of sync. For those who have experience in the audio industry this may make more sense.

2) G-Sync has no input lag penalty (ie nothing statistically relevant). See the blurbusters article here: http://www.blurbusters.com/gsync/preview2/
Note that in CS:GO the lowest recorded input lag with V-SYNC OFF is ~13ms which appears anomalous and you can safely assume this has actually occurred during a screen-tear as the likelihood of a regular 144hz screen refresh occurring perfectly in sync with a 6.9ms frame-time is nearly impossible. The big difference here, is with G-Sync the entire frame is in sync with your input lag, not half or a quarter of the frame with a tear in it.

3) In CS:GO specifically, you have to set your fps_max to just below your display max refresh-rate. In the case of a 144hz monitor, you have to set it around 120. This is because the frame-times are so far below the VBLANK time that it has to wait for the monitor to allow a refresh to happen (where-as anything above VBLANK time is just sent directly to the monitor without waiting).

4) Input lag still has a lot to do with the engine involved. A real killer is hugely varying frame-rates. CS:GO is a perfect example. Sure you can get 300fps when standing still, but have a few smokes go off and you cut that in half. So having a steady frame-rate with steady input lag is preferable. Reality is, frame-times vary quite a bit.

 

Except when G-sync is enabled and at or near the limit - according that blurbusters article. I haven't experienced any input lag in any instance with G-sync on with V-sync on or off.

yeah well Linus Linus Linus... Even his results did show at higher frequencies with v-sync off resulted no better input lag, slightly worse...

 

I was able to boot into windows 10 with the NVMe, installed all drivers, but due to the fact that I had the prema bios for the non-gsync version of the P770ZM, it wouldn't install my video card at all. It just simply wasn't detecting it, so I went back to the G-sync bios and put my old SSD back in.

I already went thru the return process for the NVMe, but you should be able to find it up on eBay shortly when he receives it back. It's currently en route.

But yes, prema bios was definitely able to install the NVMe version of the drive, with the correct read/write speeds during a CrystalDiskMark test

 

That's pretty impressive work by Prema there, shame it's not done for the G-Sync version yet but he is only one guy after all.

 

Is this the guy, http://www.ebay.com/itm/131570608572?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT?

 

Which slot does the SM951 go? The one next to the SATA drives or the one by the fams?

 

Into the slot next to both SSDs.
Or look into the pictures in this review: Next to the 840 Evo.
http://www.notebookcheck.net/One-K73-5N-Clevo-P771ZM-Notebook-Review.135088.0.html

 

Yeah

 

In the bay with the 2.5" SSD's. It won't fit in the other slot anyhow.

 

Thank you. I got in the correct place.

Why won't it fit? I ask because I am probably going to swap it for the NVME version and will want them both installed so I don't have to reinstall everything.

 

The keying of the module and port. Look here at HTWingNut's excellent review under Storage:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...0zm-g-980m-g-sync-review-by-htwingnut.777906/

Edit: Also, one x4 lane M.2 PCIe SSD would use all four available lanes. Two PCIe SSDs would be limited to x2 lanes. I don't think you want to do that. One M.2 PCIe SM951 x4 and one M.2 SATA in the other slot is the way to go if you already have the SM951.

 

Thank you. The reason for 2 M.2 drives is for copying the AHCI drive to the NVMe drive. Then I will get rid of the AHCI drive.

 

So anyone got a thought on when 17 inch 75 hrz G sync 4k screens will not only be available but also viable?

I was going to wait for the next batch of laptops but decided it was best to pull the trigger now with solid tech rather than wait for the rough next gen 1st run.

Don't really need higher than 1080p for graphic design animation and gaming anyway.

 

As a gamer you are better off with a 1080p panel for the higher frame rates even with G-Sync, 4k is 4x more taxing, it's just a huge jump. That's going to be true for some time.

 

Thanks, contacted Mythlogic to get an update. Asked if they could load up Windows 10 on the unit they are building.

Has anyone had any issues with updating/running Windows 10 on this model to make me think this will be a problem?

Also how does it stack performance wise and is there an increase as compared to 7 to 8/8.1.

 

Performance is pretty similar, though you have DX12 in windows 10 for future titles.

 

i just ordered this beauty and while waiting to get it,im thinking of all the dirty stuff im gonan do to it <3

on a serious note,i got the i7 4790(simple,no K or Z or anything),and im wondering if its possible to undervolt that one(simply cause i dont want my baby to have any kind of extra stress on it that i could get rid of).

 

You made a good choice (if you dont want to overclock) and yes you can undervolt and underclock as much as stability allows you.
I'd recommend Intel XTU or Throttlestop.

 

You just can't exceed the stock levels in any way.

 

Yeah, you can undervolt it quite a bit depending on if you hit the silicon lottery or not.

 

Can anyone please tell what the Bios setting option "GPU Performance Scaling" does and whether it should be set enabled or disabled?

 

The information I got is that scaling of 3d rendered scenes is either handled by the either the IGP or dGPU. I believe you want to leave it to the dGPU and keep it enabled.

 

Thanks for the info. My understanding is the iGPU is disabled for this model – P770ZM, so this option should have no effect whether enabled or disabled. Right? I will anyway enable it to be sure that performance is not compromised anywhere.

 

You understand correctly, iGPU disabled.

 

Hi again! I´m writing here cause i started getting this buzzing noise from my left speaker. Whenever i play music or a movie it will start making this crackling/buzzing noise after a minute or so. It´s definitely coming from the speaker. Please help me!

 

FYI... NP9773 (assuming NP9772 as well) supports up to three external displays for up to four total displays!

This is a quick video I did, didn't have much time, but thought I'd throw it out there for users that were wondering. Will try to hook it up another time at least with two externals and try some tri-screen gaming.

 

Awesome. If P770ZM doesn't support that, another example of Clevo screwing over P770ZM owners because they didn't know they were being sold a gimped prototype machine and one month later Clevo would sell the complete P770ZM.

 

The monitor outputs are all routed through the GPU so it will.

 

is there any way to disable or control the keyboard's backlight except for the fn+some numberpad keys?(the fn works with volume control for isntance,and the number pad is also functional but it just doesnt work to control the backlight).my backlight is always on and id like it off when i just dont need it.

 

nevermind,turns out i lacked the hotkey driver.found it avaliable for windows 8,and it worked even on my win 10.cheers.

 

I crashed twice yesterday playing 7 Days to Die. Black screen, beeping and flashing lock lights then reboot. I wasn´t monitoring so I don´t know the temps but they have been very good for three months. I will monitor tonight.
I haven´t changed anything recently except using wired connection, it´s still elevated and using max fans so it shouldn´t be temps.
What else could it be, loose RAM? Gremlins?

 

Is your video card overclocked? Sounds like you may need to dial it back a bit if it is. Start there (imo). I used to get that with an unstable gpu overclock. Other than that, maybe a little more voltage on cpu vcore.

 

All clocks are stock but the cpu is undervolted. I completely forgot to check XTU if that was reset, but if it was that means I was at stock voltage at the second crash.

 

Hmmm... That does sound odd. Any software changes (like Windows 10 upgrade w/o a clean install)? Any hardware changes?
Edit: is the ram overclocked?
Edit 2: I personally think it is hardware related, if just check drivers and registry issues first, any new hardware added, and that all hardware (like ram, video card, etc.) Is firmly seated. After this, run memtest from a thumbdrive next. After this, submit the video card to stress tests (so long as temps are good), followed by cpu stress tests (again, watching temps). I don't know whether your ambient temps have increased causing safety shut downs or what.
Edit 3: if you want to not remove the heatsink, only check the ram is seated, then run the tests.

 

Does anyone have an idea what could cause my left speaker to buzz whenever i´m playing music or watching movies?? Sending it to warranty would be my last option. And i really don´t like to go on that road!

 

My thought is a connection broke or shielding failed, but I can't say. I don't know if the signal clipped and damaged the speaker, loosened the connection, or if the signal is being degraded. Those are my initial thoughts but I can't be sure without examining it. It could be lots of things.

 

Seems somewhat normal. Videos I've watched with loudness too loud for microphone used or something like lots of wind. Seems certain frequencies or distortions cause it. I think it's been mentioned to get some foam tape or some kind of padding underneath there will stop it.

 

I see, well i just tried to disassemble the whole thing to get under the speakers, but i got stuck in the middle of it cause apparently to do that you´d have to remove the top chassis, and that i don´t know how to do

 

It's a total tear down to get to it basically.

 

Please show me since I also have the speaker rattling, pisses me off a high performance laptop has this problem. Where to place the foam for example. Thank you.

 

No hardware changes, Win 8.1, apart from -60 mV on CPU core everything is stock.

Played 7 Days to Die for 2,5 hours straight last night without incidents.

CPU peaked at 88C, used to be around 80C although I have raised voltage slightly since my initial testings (Witcher 2 and BF4 didn´t like my undervolt) and ambient is 3C higher. Avg temp 76C.

GPU peaked at 78C, used to be 70C. Not sure about this one since its still stock and only 3C higher ambient but 78C is still ok. Maybe time to clean the vents but I´ve only had it three months.

So temps are OK even if I´d like the CPU a bit lower. One thing I have noticed more than once the last couple of days is I can be almost 100% certain I´m running Fn+1 from the start and then hear the fans ramp down midgame. Is that even possible to drop out of forced max fans? If so, since I´m peaking 88C right now in that particular game, I could have missed the fans ramping down and been approaching 100C and got a thermal shutdown.

 

Which version are you using on hot keys? You may want to uninstall it and try the most recent version. Could be a driver conflict or something, ramped down, gpu fault triggered. Be my guess.

 

My troubleshooting is ongoing. I´m getting crashes with max temps 85/75 for CPU/GPU so I´ve ruled out temps.

Sometimes it´s beeping and a shutdown, sometimes a reboot without beeping.

I´ve run several configurations of wired+wifi and wired only with undervolt -60, -30 and 0 mV. Tonight it always crashed within 10-15 minutes in 7 Days to Die. Max temps CPU at 0 mV was 90-91 so should still be good.

Last thing I did was revert to when it didn´t crash which was -60mV undervolt and wifi only. I played for 30 minutes without issue, so I´m thinking the LAN/Ethernet or it´s drivers are wonky (I´ve barely used wired before, only wifi).

Currently installed for RealTek RTL8168/8111 is 8.1.510.2013 dated 130510 (why on Earth are they putting 2 year old drivers on it?).
Latest I can find is from Clevos website which is Realtek LAN driver 8.35.716.2014 dated 2015/1/6. Anyone know of any newer?

If this doesn´t help I´ll have to look for something else.

 

Is there anyway that I could plug my logitech wireless headsets usb internal, have it sit in one of the spare hdd spots.

If you know of any devices that I can use internal for this could you please link me with some.

 

I have been looking for something like that for a long time. Unfortunately I have not found anything that exists, unless you have second mini PCI-e slot that is wired for USB like a wireless card slot.

I always wondered why laptops aren't made with an internal USB port. It would be great for things like a mouse wireless adapter or headset or anything really. The only way I know how is to solder off the connections internally to a USB port. I've done it before to fan mod.