*** Official Clevo P770ZM / Sager NP9772 and P770ZM-G / Sager NP9773 Owner's Lounge ***

yun fan normal naman yun ingay niya ....wala naman issue sa speaker malakas nga eh....
sa aesthetics naman para sa akin mas "mature" "business" look ang sager ... hehe .... ayaw ko ng flashy looks na laptop parang pang bata....hehe

 

So, I haven't poured through it to form the basis of opinion on the best OS for which purposes yet, but this is the stock benchmark numbers for Win 7 Pro, Win 8.1 Pro, Win 10 Preview w/ Win 8.1 Drivers, and Win 10 Preview w/o other drivers. More to come (including percentages compared of each category). I won't be able to do the OC until next month. But this should allow you to read the data and decide for yourself. My P770ZM has a 4790K cpu, 970m 6gb videocard, 16GB 1600Mhz Kingston Value Ram (no OC), and 1TB HDD (HGST) with four even partitions. I used the CSM on and secure boot off for Win 7. Other than that, BIOS settings (specifically the native ASPM Enabled) were the same while benching each OS. I used the 350.12 Driver on Win 7, 8.1, 10 w/ drivers. I used the nvidia driver provided by Windows on the final OS. This allowed for the OpenCL test in Realbench 2.41 (asus bench and stress utility) to be performed on the first three OSes, but not the final OS (I have left M$ feedback that the OpenCL is not able to initialize with some programs). Because of this, I have an asterisk in OpenCL for this score (as it matched in all prior three tests), but could not provide a system score for Realbench (will run again when resolved).

I have provided the subscores that I could for each test EXCEPT for Passmark. Evidently, it is not able to score Windows 10 nearly as accurately. It has to do with the 2d testing (and possible other tests) performed.

As I said, I have to still dig into the numbers, but here is the data if anyone wants to run with it before I get a chance!

 

Huge thanks for pulling this together @ajc9988 ! Interesting that firestrike was the only 3DMark test that windows 7 lost across their suite. The margin is pretty large for some of those tests also.

Changing OS might help me way more than I thought it would.

 

That's what I noticed with certain categories (photo editing and encoding if I remember correct). It's also interesting to see what the difference in driver's effects on os is. To be honest, if win 10 continues to improve between now and release, I would be hard pressed not to recommend it upon release. It's usability is easily on par with win 7. Time will tell...

 

@ajc9988 first off excellent job. It's great to see the differences the OS has to offer. Personally I have been running windows 10 and I really like it. Seems like Microsoft finally got it right again.
I realize this shouldn't effect the results but I'm curious if you ever received your replacement sink. Or if you have completed the mods which you were working on.

 

Thank you for that. And I have not. I spent the money I was going to to pay last minute expenses at my sister's wedding. So I'll order the new one in a couple days (the first), along with a finger sander ( check them out, right dimensions and flat surface; also available in a 3/4 inch model) to polish up the new heatsink. After that, I'll check for fit and warping, make sure flat contact, apply the fujipoly pads (including backside of graphics card), and then see what clocks I can reach. There is only one thermal pad mod I'm cooking up (I'll pm you about it) that isn't near ready for prime time. I'll then do those benchmarks for all four OSes three times, my everyday auto fan OC, my max fan gaming OC, then the max I feel comfortable with without thermal throttle. I'm sending the benchmark scores to MS this morning on the win 10 feedback, as well as reporting the issues with OpenCL and physics graphics tests. Here's hoping they use it (and speed up browsing to beat win 7). If the next build does, win 10 for the win!!! But the user interface I now prefer over win 7. Also, if you click on Cortana task bar search and it stays gray, click on the start menu, when it turns white (regardless if it pulls up the start menu), start typing and you're good.

 

As far as adding the thermal pads to the back of the card. It is really easy. I removed the back about a week ago to take a look. It is 2 X 1mm thick strips I didn't measure the exact dimensions but I do plan on doing that myself also.

 

It's good to see that the benchmarks are close enough between 7 and 10 to not worry about it so much. I also jumped on the Win 10 train, and have to say I'm very pleased with it so far. Having seen 8/8.1 in action, I was determined to stick to 7 as long as I could.

 

Already bought the extra strips for it. I'm curious whether the metal brace is in contact with the back plate though.

 

I went and got this laptop yesterday night from xoticpc.com. This is my first laptop since I moved into my current house 8 years ago and got an old Sager laptop. The thing lasted me 8 years and is still going strong, but it is severely dated. The one I bought last night has the 4790 (no k) processor and the GTX 980M videocard. Got 32 gigs of RAM, and this will be my first introduction to solid state drives. I went with the Windows 7.1 OS for it since I have yet to hear anything good about Windows 8. I recently built a desktop computer with Windows 7 on it, and my work computer has Windows 7 so I'm quite familiar with it.

I can't wait for this thing to get here. Since my current laptop is still running (of course it is, I'm typing on it right now), I'll be able to transfer my files and everything else quite easily. It will be nice having a beast of a machine to use since I enjoy arcade emulators and those things are monsters to run. I'll also be looking forward to the supposedly quiet fans in this since the fans in my current laptop sound like a jet engine taking off. I've got a laptop cooler to place the new laptop on, and can also adjust it so that it gets optimal cooling. I can't wait for this thing to arrive! The only thing that sucks is that I have to travel for business from the 10th to the 15th of May. I made note of this in my order, but I have a feeling that the laptop won't ship until after that date anyway. Also happy that xoticpc.com has the 17.3" IPS screen. I'm also happy to see the company is an active member of this community here. Hopefully this laptop lasts me a good 8 years as well!

 

How did u get the 10?

 

Go to: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/preview-iso
Follow directions on that page.

I'm currently set for fast ring builds and am on build 10061. All benchmarks were ran on this build for that sheet.

 

Thanks !!!

 

Can anybody recommend a good TV with displayport input?
whiih is better display-port or hdmi?

I am looking at Sony but cant find a 4k tv with display-port input.....

 

I do not know of any but display port to Hdmi are very easy to find
@ajc9988 I'm not 100% sure on this but outside the 4 screws that connect the plate to the card I do not believe there is any contact. I believe the size of the plate is to allow simple convection to cool the backside of the chip.

 

I know what you mean. Just couldn't tell with the elevation. I'll take another look when I get to that point.

 

Just got an e-mail. I'm at Phase 1. I cannot wait!

 

Gratz! I'm in the same boat you are, but I sadly had to stall my order a few days.

 

Yeah. Sadly, I'm on a business trip the week of May 11th, but xoticpc.com is able to hold off on shipping until after that date so I don't have to worry about not being around when it arrives. Again, this is my first laptop since I bought one when I moved into my house 8 years ago. So this will definitely put my current system to shame. Seeing how happy people are with this laptop, and with the place I bought it from, I know I'll be incredibly happy!

 

Hello beautiful! Let´s slip you into something more... comfortable?

Spoiler

 

thats so hot...

 

@Mr Najsman, wow, looking forward to your impressions of it. Any chance of a review on sweclockers?

 

I have unpacked and installed a batch of Windows Update. Everything running smoothly so far.

Idle CPU sometimes spikes to over 70 degrees and the fan ramps up. I´ve noticed Windows Modules Installer Worker is pulling some CPU Power so I´m guessing there are updates working in the background. Aside from this it´s very silent, but I can still hear the fans in a quite room. "True" idle is around 55 degrees.

In the ControlCenter, hitting Max fans gives the exact same fan noice as hitting Fn+1. Actually hitting Fn+1 switches from Max to Auto in the ControlCenter. Max there is 80%, can I not run at 100%?

I ran a quick stress test in XTU. Fans on Auto, everything stock, on cooler. Peak CPU 98 degrees but it didn´t budge from 4.19 GHz, so this feels promising.

I noticed Processor Cache Ratio is proposed 40x instead of default 44x. I didn´t change anything, I guess I should set it to 44x?

Spoiler: XTU stress stock

 

Full stock, correct? What paste did you have the machine shipped with?

 

Full stock. I´ve only installed Windows Updates, XTU, HWiNFO64 and GPU-Z. And then ran the stress test. I don´t know which but mySN probably put MX-4 on it. I will repaste with Gelid after I´ve done some tests with undervolting on stock paste.

Having just compared fan noice between Max and Fn+1 I could tell the stress test didn´t ramp up as much. Why wouldn´t it do that even when I was over 95 degrees? Weird.

 

Alright, good to know. Hopefully you got some good hardware and can undervolt it heavily. I haven't experimented with high stress situations without forcing fans to max via Fn+1 yet. I can look into it when my machine arrives Thursday and determine if I can replicate the same behavior. Hopefully someone else can share some insights on how their auto fan profile behaves in the meantime.

For curiosities sake, what asic quality does GPU-Z report for your 980M?

 

Did another stress test with fans on Max in ControlCenter. Peak temp 88, that´s a 10 degree difference.

GPU-Z reports ASIC 75,2%.

Edit: Fan profile for Auto fans really isn´t all that great.
Auto fans 3DMark Fire Strike. CPU 99 C, GPU 87 C.
Max fans 3DMark Fire Strike. CPU 81 C (-17), GPU 62 C (-25). Graphics score climbed to 9880, everything stock.

 

Mmmmmm........ Sexy. I can't wait for mine!

 

My 980M cards were 70-71% IIRC.

 

@Mr Najsman here is some of my temps after all the work done on my laptop. This should give you a good indication of what temps are possible. These test were 5 minute runs in XTU stress test. To date I have delided CPU Polished heatsink and applied Gelid extreme. The before polish shows temps after delid but before polishing using the same paste. If you have any questions let me know and I will be happy to help!! congrats on joining us your addition to the batman club is exciting.

 

Thanks @superkyle1721 Seems I got -90 mV stable in XTU stresstest and Fire Strike. Max temps 84 and 80 respectively with auto fans and stock paste.
Dying Light ran like a champ on "Best quality" for 30 minutes then crashed to desktop. In XTU the -75 mV undervolt was still there so I´m assuming it was something else.


So, I´m about to flash Premas BIOS. To disable UEFI I guess it´s this option?:

Spoiler: UEFI

Fast responses welcome, I´m hovering the button

Yes I plan to do a writeup there. I´ll probably wait until I´ve done more testing. No use for a work-in-progress thread there, compared to NBR which reached 100+ pages before the first owner even got the laptop...

 

That's the one. But why not use UEFI?

 

I´m following Premas flashing guide which states to disable and afterwards reenable UEFI. I thought it could somehow take priority in boot order over the USB or something?

 

AH! Makes sense now... I know that MBR will override GPT, but it is a good question. I'd follow his guide to the letter though. Usually a good idea.

 

Yeah, I´m not straying an inch


Edit: Holy crap that 30 second black screen is scary, we gotta nerf that. My butt wont unclench untill tomorrow.
All went well though Thanks for your help @ajc9988

 

Wow -90 is a very good undervolt. I may suggest testing that with prime95. I could undervolt further and it will pass XTU but will eventually fail in prime so for 100% solid undervolt you should use prime95. Everything else though sounds like you are well on your way to being up and running!

Edit: if you don't mind will you run through my matrix I posted above and give users a baseline to follow. I lost mine somewhere not sure what happened to it. It would be good to see a baseline then the delid only and then delid plus polish. That would give users a good idea of what will be the best action for their time and risk.

 

I might try Prime95 too, though I feel XTU and gaming is good enough but for rock solid as you say. Btw -100mV in XTU crashes immediately.

I can run through those tests. Did you set the offset and read the actual voltage in Hwinfo (or similar)?

 

Gaming is prob a good indication but I was solid in XTU around 95 and although everything seemed fine eventually it would crash. That's the only reason I say use prime. I read the voltage from XTU directly. It should stabilize under full load to some value.

 

Also, try polishing the cpu as well as heatsink. The smoother both surfaces are the better. Warning: if you resealed the ihs in hopes of your warranty, polishing it will void it! (Mine's shiny copper mirror).

 

I polished both the IHS and sink. But I went easy with the IHS as far as material removal. My RMA is for GPU so shouldn't effect warranty for it. We will see haha. I actually had some amazing sand paper in one of the labs here on campus. I started with 330 very very lightly to ensure it is flat and level. Then worked my way up to 2200 grit polish. From there I used the high end stuff the school had. 46 micrometer grain size then 10 micrometer then 5 micrometer to finish it off. It basically looked like a mirror so shiny and perfect. I'll say this though. Using gelid extreme the gain from just using 2200 to using the ultra fine paper was maybe at most 1 degree.

Edit: for the IHS I started with the 2200 and moved up from there. The lettering is still in tact but the corners are a nice copper color. Pretty obvious the IHS was not very level. I think that is what improved temps the most for me.

 

I'm going to repolish the cpu (could've been better, my finest papers (.3 micron and .05 micron fiber optic finishing paper) were too hard and roughed up the finish of my one micron paper. I redid the majority to shine, but didn't get one scratch out. Going to use down to 1 micron paper on the new heatsink too with the finger sander (flat surface to get warps out and prevent creating an uneven surface). This summer, after more research, I'll try the thermal pad mod.

 

When the laptop is on battery and I'm scrolling, a buzzing noise is emitted from the speakers.
Does anyone have a fix for this? It occurs mostly when scrolling regardless of using the touchpad or the mouse but sometimes also when using the mouse.

When connected to a power outlet, the problem seems to be gone.

 

@ajc9988 what we really should design is a liquid cooling system that uses the existing fan ports as radiator placement. Now that would be batman worthy

 

The question is where to place the pump, testing whether running heatpipes through the fins would be necessary and the impact on air flow, whether to measure and have the pipes solid or a bendable metal pipe, creating custom blocks for the cpu, chips polishing it, gpu and card, obviously solder sealing the system. It wouldn't be hard with good measurements, mock up with a plastic moldable tubing, find a machinist, and a person that could braize rather than solder. The right pump is probably the hardest part of it.

Edit: also, putting the pump on the cpu block could be possible if you can find a low profile pump. Then you'd have to do a power split to the pump, which effects the fans (first thought was split the power off cpu fan, but this has inherent issues).

EDIT 2: Windows 10 insider preview dropped with the build conference. So new build with new driver (352.63) equals another round of benchmarks soon...

 

Pump power would be an issue but it could be done. You may also be able to eliminate one of the USB ports pulling power internally from it. It would take some cleaver design and electrical know how but should be doable. You would never be able to operate on battery but we don't really ever do that anyways. Designing the radiator should be easy since we can model that after the existing fins. If we found a way to power the pump we should be able to use a desktop liquid cool system. We would need to remove the back plate etc but for testing theory I may give it a run

Edit: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1..._2011_AM2_AM2_AM3.html?tl=g30c321&id=n2xaSNRs

That would work is we could redesign the cooler to use the existing fans. That's where I see the trouble.

 

I'm talking attempting to find a low profile pump for the backplate to be on (also why you braze the pipes). The pump will need nowhere near the pressure a desktop needs and existing blocks would be too tall. You'd want the inspiration from blocks that are not too restrictive while getting the proper contact. The heat pipe clearance would allow for a possible pump on block scenario. Also, it could be placed (the pump) in the area with the two sata three drives and possible get an adapter to a standard sata split to connect a power cable and figure how to rig it from there for the pump.

Either way, the true win is to have the backplate on and have a totally sealed system without worry of moving the machine too often.

 

The issue being unless you increase the fin area, the cooling ability would be about the same only the system is heavier and may leak

 

My proposed Processor Cache Ratio is 40x instead of the default 44x. I didn´t change this, which should it be, which is "stock"?

Spoiler

I ran through those tests. -80/-151 was unstable for me, had to go with -80/-100.
4x44 passed with max temp 90. I gave a try at 4x45, had to set the offset to -40 mV to make it pass, max temp 98, very minor throttle.

Here´s the data in a spreadsheet if you wanna paste it into yours @superkyle1721 I´ve added some columns as some tests throttled, I also included all my crashed attempts:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1-ras0hAVItBIysqmURgbIEJdQcaqBG4JyFtveNs9yVc/edit?usp=sharing

 

It has been recommended to leave the cache ratio set to 40 instead of the stock 44. From my understanding this will allow a more stable undervolt with little sacrifice to speed. Thanks for the table I'll post it together with my results

 

As always you can try playing around with it to see what impacts stability/performance as it may change from chip to chip.