*** Official Clevo P770ZM / Sager NP9772 and P770ZM-G / Sager NP9773 Owner's Lounge ***

oh my, Batman has arrived! Not fully pimped out yet (new ssd and good ram will arrive later)
I did a repaste with gelid extreme, not 100% sure about the repaste job, since 1 core seems to be consistently lower temp then the others.
I'm using a -90/-110 mv offset at the moment with default turbo XTU seems to be low 80s, small FFT was right up near 100C at 4.1GHz and some throttling reported...
Haven't yet played much with the system yet, but overall seems pretty awesome.

 

Not yet, maybe soon...

CEG-hardcorecustom -
your UPGRADE base for Clevo & Alienware notebooks - for NBR & Techinferno users always something special

 

I don't think so.

CEG-hardcorecustom -
your UPGRADE base for Clevo & Alienware notebooks - for NBR & Techinferno users always something special

 

CEG-hardcorecustom -
your UPGRADE base for Clevo & Alienware notebooks - for NBR & Techinferno users always something special

 

Fault sorry for that...

CEG-hardcorecustom -
your UPGRADE base for Clevo & Alienware notebooks - for NBR & Techinferno users always something special

 

ouch, that sounds too high for a GC Extreme repaste plus undervolt.... did u set your fans to max? also lift off the cpu heatsink and take a picture of the paste job before removing it for another one. that might give us a clue as to how good it was

 

Sounds like auto fans

 

yeap, auto fans, I havent flashed the bios yet or anything... but 80-85C normal full load @4.2ghz is not terrible

 

I just ordered mine! Hopefully it makes its way quickly. One quick question, xotixPC says the 9772-a comes with ic diamond. Should I still repaste? Or will that be good enough?

 

You will be able to judge that when you get it and see the temps.

 

so my 1st firestrike test
8277 with NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980M(1x) and Intel Core i7-4790K

Graphics Score
9367

Physics Score
11335

Combined Score
3635

 

well well, looks like the 17 incher batmans battled their way up to second most acive thread here on NBR thats as far as youre gonna get though! *mwahaha*

 

Probably be a different story if we had screen options.

 

Not a bad start! My stock voltage overclock on my 970m beats it, but it is a good start (and probably the last time I can say that)!

 

Haha, I'll dive into more min-maxing when I get the memory... But I wanna make sure I can drive 100% load on cpu and gpu together at reasonable temps...

PS.: also this was done while I had some background apps up (not doing anything much, but still)

 

Good to hear, my top score is 8377 with stock, no OC. Try setting:
PhysX to CPU
max fans
Maximum performance power setting

Should squeeze a little more out of it.

 

I need some help, I have been trying for days now to get my P770ZM with 980M to work with my Benq xl2420TE to run at 1920x1080 120hz.

Everything is stock, no oc or firmware upgrades.

I have tried,

displayport M/M cable, showed the setting 120hz but monitor was blank saying no signal.
displayport M to DVI M, could not get 120hz profile for the monitor
HDMI M source from P770ZM to DVI M, this switched to 120hz for a moment and them back to 60hz

Has anyone gotten the outputs to work on a 120hz monitor?
If someone has a DP to DVI adapter that works, can I get the exact model number.

 

what do you guys use to set fan profiles?

 

only viable option in this machine is the Clevo Hotkey utility

 

Fan profiles are written into the ec firmware. Unless you really know what you are doing, I don't recommend playing with it to change them. Although I could personally go for higher fans at lower thermal points, it is fine and you have the hotkey max fan trump card.

 

sager has some software pre installed control center that seemed to work fine for me.
look in programfiles x86 under hotkey

 

How come there is no hotkey for Bluetooth? My np5160 had one. Not a big deal but the F4 button is blank. And anybody find a compatible LVDS AUO TN panel that will work in batman?

 

For question 1) they combined BT and Wifi into the Airport button I believe. Use that to disable/enable both (if I remember correctly).

 

@ajc9988 I've decided to take the plunge and send off my CPU for de lidding. I'm guessing I will be out around a week maybe a week and a half. I'll update on temp etc. once it returns. I'm very interested in your finding on the XTU over clock for the CPU. I've also been doing a lot of reading on the OC and delidding process. The delidding process doesn't seem very difficult if you are gentle. In fact seems pretty straight forward. I opted to send it off since buying the materials would cost almost the same and I lose the risk of damage. After hours of reading I have one major concern about sending it off. Comparing my voltage and temps along with others I feel I got a top tier cpu in my system and an average GPU. If I send it off is there anyway to verify that the CPU that is returned is my exact same one?

 

@superkyle1721
http://rweverything.com/download/
You can get a lot of identifying info for your cpu off of it and compare it when it gets back. I feel the same, although I am finding my voltages went up a little quicker than expected at 4.5 and above, but think that that can be changed once I have additional control on voltages. Other than that, note the batch info on your IHS, but rweverything gives the info embedded with the CPU itself.
Other than that, maybe a non-electrical conducting mark on the CPU (nail-polish) inconspicuously. I talked to him and he said if you just want the IHS popped and the VRM sealed, it's half the price (so no liquid pro/ultra or reseal). Also, he said if he screwed it up, he would attempt to cover by purchase of a replacement. Finally, what do you think is the likelihood that yours is better than the 140+ or so he has done? That's the best I got for you (I have those concerns too and may do the same once my RMA gets back). If he is resealing the IHS, make sure to recommend Liquid pro. I've read about liquid ultra drying out before (don't know if it is true), but if the IHS is left unsealed, liquid ultra can more easily be swapped and reapplied. AVG temp difference of 1 degree C. Dealers choice!

Edit: On OC
If I am correct, once Additional Turbo Voltage is enabled in XTU, this would be the order to UV the CPU. Additional Turbo Voltage, by some reports, only allows additional voltage, not a reduction of voltage, from the VID amount. All statements are based on this assumption:
1) find the lowest stable Cache Voltage Offset at set stock multiplier
2) Find the lowest stable Core Voltage Dynamic Voltage Offset at stock multiplier (4790K = 40)
- This is important because above 40 multiplier on this chip, you are in turbo land, so you want to know the max VID offset before playing with turbo, and make sure this is understood in Volts, not just offsets
3) Go to multiplier higher than the stock 40. This usually will have a lower Core offset. Make up for that by ADDING the Additional Turbo Voltage until it is stable while reducing the DVO until it matches the VID found in step 2. This will set the variance above the VID stack meant for turbo. In other words, this effects only the highest VID level that they set aside for turbo mode only. You set this to give enough voltage for that multiplier.

IF I am correct, you can have the lowest, coolest performance on balance while having a huge ramp up for the turbo multiplier! Obviously, the tweaking being done this way would take hours of fun! But if I am correct, you would be able to achieve outstanding results. Just a thought. This isn't adding info about load line calibration, Vdroop, etc. Down and dirty of what I think works and possibly why. Full write up forthcoming!

Edit 2: This is how I THINK it works, not how I know it works. Until I have the ability to play with these settings, this is speculation!

 

I have read similar reports and was going to go with the ultra none the less. (Maybe I shouldn't) I just blew them off bc there were also other reports of the coollaboratory causing rusting inside the CPU. I watched a few videos of a guy removing the IHS a year after application (no proof it was a year later I guess but taking his word for it) and it seemed just fine. After searching on both I never found and hard evidence that either exist so I'm thinking it may be someone being cautionary without any substantial evidence. I'm still on the fence of doing it myself but making the decision today.

Pros:
I learn something
I build confidence in the future to do it again.
I save money and have plenty left over for the future.
I'm not out a week and a half without a Computer.
I know I still have the exact same CPU.
Cons:
Could be out over $300
Seems to only be one con haha but when you apply a weighted average the cons outweigh the pros so If/when I do send it off to him. I will just let him do it all. I just don't see a reason of sending it all the way there for half the job. I mean you really are only saving a day at best.

 

The reason I am thinking of not having it sealed is actually different and complete speculation. The sealant between the PCB and the IHS creates a small gap. If not sealed, the IHS sits minusculy closer to the die. I am hoping this holds the die and IHS together more firmly once in the clamp on the board, allowing for better heat transfer. Risks - you don't set it down properly, it smears CLU on the inside of the IHS, drips elsewhere on the PCB. If the VRM are sealed, pretty much not a big deal, but still must be aware. This is why I considered the half job as you mentioned. Also, if I want to or if something new comes out, I don't have to delid to switch to a different TIM (not likely, but just a thought).

Another point is if it is sealed, easier resale and many will think never delidded (think warranty etc.). I do not recommend claiming warranty on a product you modified and violated the terms of the warranty at the outset. This is FRAUD! Something I recommend NO ONE commit. But if worried that the company will not honor warranty on the MB because of finding the CPU warranty violated, two separate clauses of the warranty, ... Anyways, also, what are your thoughts on my OC edit in my post before this?

EDIT 1: To clarify, you delid = void CPU warranty; If you increase voltage over spec on your motherboard = void MB warranty. If by delidding, you overvolted and burnt out a component on the motherboard = no warranty = fraud if claimed. Play by the rules, know what your hardware can do, and ASSUME THE RISK OF LOSS. It's best for everyone!

 

the clevo hotkey utility apparently does not work properly on my machine... I dunno why... (it has server 2012)

 

Spoken like a true lawyer anyways first off I have been truly enjoying your write ups on the OC theories. They make perfect sense to me and I'm sure are greatly appreciated by the community. I do see one slight modification I would make as to not confuse people. When you say this will have a "lower" core offset correct me if I'm wrong but you mean a closer to zero meaning less negative offset. This would technically be a higher offset. Not trying to critic you by anymeans just found that as a spot that may cause some end user confusion. Other than that everything sounds great and once I get my CPU back I plan on diving in and testing everything. Unfortunately by that time I would expect you to have tested and verified so I wouldn't be of much help.

@ajc9988 obviously I do not have the same knowledge about this as you do as it's obvious you have been researching it for some time. What I'm confused about is the fact that you keep stating it will have the same voltage offset for all Cstates. C0 is the only C state that should cause instabilities correct? So Since we can offset C0 and reduce the workload temps and voltages the other Cstates shouldn't really be of concern since say C6 temps do not really matter as far as silicone degradation/temps or voltage.

 

I'm having an issue with my P770ZM right now. Everything was fine for a week; I did benchmarks, updated Windows, ran games, rebooted, no issues. Now, after installing the fingerprint driver, it seems to have caused a major problem. Upon rebooting, it took a very long time to start Windows and after that everything was incredibly slow.

I thought it may be a software issue at first and I tried a system restore, tried reinstalling drivers and nothing seemed to work so I tried reinstalling Windows and still had the same problem. I checked the drive (Plextor M6E SSD) in a caddy on another computer and it worked fine so this leads me to believe the problem is with the motherboard.

I really hope it isn't as I got this shipped from the US and it'd cost more than the price of a new motherboard to ship it back for repair/warranty. Is there anything else I could try?

 

I meant going more negative on the Vcore until unstable, then back up. I will go through many revisions before posting the official guide, so no worries and thank you for asking for clarity! Love making sure no misunderstandings occur. This isn't an excerpt, just bouncing ideas out there.
So by having the VID set to the lowest possible offset, it controls all C-states and load stock. The "additional turbo voltage" controls the turbo voltage over the VID. That is why this control can only go positive (or so I have gathered from my research). Still, when you go to a new multiplier, it sets the VID higher for that multiplier. Because of this, you will need the additional turbo voltage high enough to run this under load, while reducing the VID down to the originally found amount. This means you will be adding voltage on the additional turbo voltage at EVERY MULTIPLIER, while going deeper into core offset to get back to the 40 multiplier stable Vcore offset (as measured at actual voltage). It is a hell of an assumption, but I believe is correct.

For desktops, they recommend seeing what the Vcore is with the stock voltage applied under stress, then reducing it using offsets to match the under stress voltage usage. THIS IS NOT AN OPTION FOR US!!! The voltage runs it too hot. So it is important to do it careful and change ONLY 1 SETTING AT A TIME!

But, we do not currently have the Additional Turbo Voltage at the moment, so it is a non-starter. Just a theory!

@Hterag - Other users have had potential issues with Plextor. For additional reading, please visit the P750ZM thread, found at http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/official-clevo-p75xzm-batman-sager-np9752-owner´s-lounge-welcome-to-the-batcave.767105/page-238 , for additional information and support. They have practically everything supported the same, but more users possess the 15" models. They may be able to add further assistance!!!

Although this is true, it depends on if you have lower C-states enabled. I want the full range of C-states as it can run cooler. Because the offset offsets the entire VID stack, every voltage attached to a different C state will be offset by the Core voltage Dynamic Voltage Offset. In other words, it applies at every given C-state. If you are on Performance, you are working at C0 mostly, maybe one C state deeper. So this will matter most.

Now, there is a state for turbo that is not attached to the C-states that also works off the VID to adjust. This is the independent one that would be adjusted by the Additional Turbo Voltage setting. SO, because this is the highest state, it would become more important than the C0 state, full core idle (if I am remembering my C-states correctly).

Now for the instabilities - if any of the lower C states does not have the voltage for that state, then it can become unstable. C0 is the most important (including the fact that it can cause non-boot just like the turbo voltage offset can cause non-boot), but because you are offsetting the stack, you may want to keep an eye out for stability issues that may occur coming from idle states.

EDIT: THIS IS TO THE BEST OF MY UNDERSTANDING. IF I HAVE MISCONSTRUED SOMETHING, PLEASE CORRECT ME AND EDUCATE ME!

 

Well, I've confirmed the drive is still fine in a caddy connected to another computer. It came from my P170HM (where it worked perfectly) and for one week it worked flawlessly in the P770ZM. I don't think the drive is the problem. It seems to be either a setting somewhere or the motherboard.

 

please search plextor in the other thread. They may have solutions and you could add to their knowledge. I understand the drive works. Wonderful! But, seeing what settings they have tried, telling your settings and experience trying to get the drive to work, etc. This allows us to create a troubleshooting section if it is a problem with all Plextor drives interacting with the motherboard, bios, uefi, etc. So please stop in there and do a thread search. Only reason I haven't paid as much attention to it - I have no SSD at the moment. BUT, I know I read about some issues with Plextor's there. The motherboards are practically the same and offer the same hardware support.

 

My current problem is that when I plug headphones in, I get a nice popup notification that a headphone has been plugged in, the speakers mute (as they should), but no sound comes out of the headphones. I can see at playback devices that sounds are happening, I can see in the realtek app that it indeed sees the headphone to be plugged in, but nothing comes out of the headphones...

 

Might need to set defaults.

 

Mine came with IC diamond and I got the same temps everyone else is getting after reapplying.

 

I tried setting all manner of things, then just reinstalled the realtek driver and it magically started to work properly...

 

The 3Rs Repent (for overclocking forgiveness), Reboot, and Reinstall

 

are the chi mei lvds screens 30 or 40 pins in our batmans?

 

I thought 40. Use hwinfo, then look up the model on panelook

It is LVDS. This currently uses a 40 pin connector

 

I already found it. 40 pin. And it's the 11, which is matte. Trying to find compatible screen. Want better contrast.

 

realtek has THE worst audio drivers.... hate it so much
from superuser forums:
"Inside the hot keys manager's folder (in my case C:\Program Files (x86)\Hotkey) there is a small .exe file called InitHeadphone.exe. As you can guess running it re-enables audio from line-out/headphones no matter what you did (sleep, lock, whatever). It seems to have some dependencies so it must be run inside the folder."

 

Man, I just found a second dead pixel. I know it wasn't there yesterday. Sigh. Gonna go ahead with the RMA. ARGH.

 

Everything is finally coming together, just need those pads!

P770ZM - 980M barebones from RJTech - Shipped
4790K from Microcenter - On Hand
G.Skill 2133 from Newegg - Shipped
Samsung SM951 from Flexx ram - Shipped
Liquid Ultra from Amazon - Shipped
Fujipoly XR-m - Wednesday?

Wish the Ultra wasn't the last to arrive so I could delid ahead of time.

 

Why'd you go with the GR-m over the X-E? 6W/mK over 11W/mK? I understand the 17W/mK Sarcon XR-m or whatever isn't currently available, but...

Still will be a killer setup!!! Congrats!

 

Ahh, good call. It's definitely the XR-m I'm waiting for next week.

I have the performance-pcs page open with all their Fujipoly listings and got GR stuck in my head since it's the top listing. Been refreshing it a couple of times each day even though they directly told me it wouldn't be there until mid next week.

 

Look at the X-E versions they have. If you are impatient, you can pick them up (they have 11W/mK). Just a thought. But I hear ya. Going to order them as soon as possible!

 

So guys got my P771ZM today, nice beast and works fine so far with my temporal 4690, have to wait till Monday to get my pre delidded 4790k. My 980m was a locked one first but unlocked it pretty quick via Prema's BIOS Mod. Got an ASIC of 64%, yeah i know a bit lackluster and OCs like that too, got to 1200 max with stock 1.075v. Temps @ stock were 79 °C on the GPU, looks too hot for me for the 771 to be honest, have to double check. But it looks like i have to put in the 980m from my P150SM which has an asic of 74,6% and runs stable at about 1300/2900 @ 1.062v. Oh and btw first thing i tried is OCing the stock matte 1080p Panel on that beats, which worked quite well, 120hz with no hassles at all, no errors nothing.

 

Any artifacts encountered when overclocked to 120Hz? Very interesting, hope all the panels can handle that!

Need to read into lifetime reduction at that Hz, but at least the panels aren't terribly expensive to replace if it happens early. They may finally have a few more options for us by then.

 

no nothing at all, i'm very sensitive to artifacts and that, tested all of the colors available from the windows wallpapers menu, which in the case of a friend of mine actually produced issues when trying to OC his panel to 115hz. So far no problems *knocks on wood*

so far repasted the 980m with AS5, have no Gelid here atm, and valley at max + 8xAA produces 69 °C @ 1246/2500. Really looking forward to put my first 980m into it.