*** Official Clevo P770ZM / Sager NP9772 and P770ZM-G / Sager NP9773 Owner's Lounge ***

Listen, we said to overclock your processor, not your monitor. *grumbles about burning out hardware due to overclocking*

 

ey, we overclock EVERYTHING! no wasted performance, none!

btw scerate, 120Hz is INSANE! *lol* how far can u go until u actually see any artifacts? no worries about longevity, displays are very robust have been running my previous rig at 95Hz for almost 4 yrs without any issues

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

to be honest i stopped at 120hz didn't tried further but the smoothness was godlike, tried a bit UT4 with that and i have to say DAYUM, it for sure feels completely different than my the SM. Just put Prema's Bios on it, that means i only have to wait for the 4790k to arrive and then we will see how for it takes me lol. It's the Chi Mei Display tho if you wonder, didn't feel the need for the IPS one this Beast is only in usage for Lan Parties and some mobile work, at home it will have to be abused as my twitch machine

 

ah well, cant have everything got a nice cpu, good gpu, good ram, so i can live with the 3k display only going up to 65hz

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

yeah have to see if i get some other RAM too, but got those 2 sticks laying around so why not, performance increase wasn't worth it to put down another 100-150€ tbh, at least for now.

 

Haven't touched my monitor. Besides running the pixels. One stuck on red, other dead. Frustrating. Trying to source another panel, otherwise it getting dropped off at ups tomorrow.

y'all have an ETA of when some 17" screens that are 100% compatible coming soon or available now? i've been tearing up panelook and laptopscreens and there is an AUO that looks like it will work but has lesser specs. don't want to buy anything with lesser contrast. and does anybody know if there is a difference between the 40 pin lvds 010A and 010C connectors? that's another thing that may be incompatible but i do not know.

 

I tried to OC my panel, it wouldn't even accept 75Hz

 

Out of curiosity where did you get the XR-M?

 

Is there a cable on the video card for HDMI? I'm still not getting audio ovr HDMI and I've troubleshooted my ass off. Now I'm guessing it has to a be a cablenor ribbon or ribbon because in my playback devices this whole time it says HDMI audio not plugged in.

 

then try something lower dont make such large jumps, try 5hz steps first, if that doesnt work, go in single Hz steps. every bit helps

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

Well I decided to stop being lazy and check some things for you P770ZM owners.

Apparently the P770ZM uses the same 90% gamut AUO panel that the P370SM/P375SM and P377SM-A can house.

This means that while not in the driver spec, if you can ascertain that an eDP connector is on your board, you should theoretically be able to use the LP173WF2-TPB1 120Hz panel for these machines.

So... good luck modders! I think a 4790K + 980M with a substantial OC is good for a solid 120Hz panel, don't you?

If anyone wants to try this upgrade and let us know of there are any drawbacks or if the screen doesn't work correctly (like screen brightness etc) then it'd be pretty nice to know for certain for any owners of this machine.

 

Although I'm hoping pro-star corrects the mount issue with my heatsink... If they don't, I'll remove the MB to get to the mounting brace and photo the board. As I said, may have to pay to have the board converted to eDP from 40 pin lvds. For all those saying the heatsink is too loose, take a page out of water cooling OC guides (specifically bare die guides) for tightening up using rubber washers, etc. If you do this, please document and post!

EDIT: also, I want to clarify. I did not mean a bare die conversion. This would require a total mod of the heatsink. I'm speaking of adding spacers of sorts between the brace/mount for the heatsink and the bottom side (while upside down to access the cpu/gpu) of the motherboard to raise slightly the board relative to the mount forcing the CPU and heatsink into closer contact.

The heatsink mods for bare die require bending and slight elongation of the heat pipes to compensate for the~2+mm drop in height without the IHS, raising the shelf with the 1mm pad by the cpu, and possible other mods not yet foreseen. I'd say if you want this, start a Google sketch starting with a cad design of the heatsink as it stands, calculate height and clearance on the MB (with my suggestions kept in mind). If anyone develops a design, price out a limited run and see if others would be willing to purchase with the one time run.

 

OMFG! been troubleshooting this audio out crap late into the night and all this morning. realized my chromecast wasn't on in the back of my onkyo 3009 and that network and firmware were grayed out. i was thinking about doing a firmware update but couldn't. get online a few minutes ago, do some google fu, and if the network card blew in your receiever, there's a recall on a few receievers and mine qualifies. i am so f'ing aggravated right now. f'ing $1400 receiver and i spent over a $100 making sure the unit stays cool with a thermistor and some fans i upgraded to noctua 80mm because i know onkyo's run hot because of their ampliflier choice. so f'ing pissed right now. probably nothing wrong with my laptop besides the pixels. onkyo strikes again. and the even more aggravating part about it is, i have to wait for them to send a box to have it repaired. no RMA slip even though i have original box and outer box. so no f'ing home theater for however long this bs is gonna take.

 

You could always raise heck and get them to upgrade you to the new model that does 4k 60hz pass through...just a thought

 

done with onkyo. with the money and method i spent on making sure my receiver stayed cool so the hdmi boards wouldn't go out i'm just done. not 100% sure what exactly is up. i don't think it's the hdmi boards as everything works as far as video is concerned. supposedly it's an ethernet issue. haven't looked it up yet. i've already wasted 9 hours of troubleshooting this problem that probably didn't exist. and right now, i gotta reinstall ram and ssd because i was fixing to send batman off to sager today. can't do it now because this will be my central place of info and entertainment until i get my receiver. i am so f'ing pissed it's unreal. and the new onkyo receivers that support 4k 60hz don't have audyssey xt32. onkyo went proprietary with room correction. i am going to raise hell though and see if i can't get a 3010 as that was last model that had audyssey xt32. looking at my options now. thinking about going component route and getting pre-amp and amps so if one thing goes, i can replace as needed. can't believe onkyo doesn't have their **** together still. they stopped making their receivers in japan and their quality has gone way downhill since then. their hdmi board issue is an ongoing thing, though it's a lesser issue now. they also had some capacitor issues because one of their suppliers cheaped out and used lesser spec cap's than onkyo wanted. denon was the last manufacturer to use japan for manufacturing facilities. i think that was two years ago. so i don't know where to start. anyways, i'm jut rambling because i'm so pissed at the time i wasted and now i can't send off my batman to get screen replaced. i did find two compatible replacements though. one lg and one AUO. the auo has lesser contrast though.

 

Can anyone post some good links on OC the 980M? Honestly OC/UC the laptop is new to me, and I am trying to play catch up.

I ordered some new Displayport to DVI adapters, hopefully these will actually work.

 

It's not worth it in my books if I can't even get to 75... Ideal would be 120Hz ofc.

 

the problematic part is flasing the vbios if the card is locked. If not, then it's super easy with msi afterburner for example.

 

well in that case, dont complain, since 75 Hz is already quite a big jump and u cant expect any random panel to just give u 120 Hz when its stock speed is 60 *rolleyes*

 

I'm saying that mine can't do 75

 

Finally reviewed parts of the service manual. For all those that want to tighten the CPU heatsink, you have to:
How to level heatsink mounts in a P770ZM

1) Remove motherboard from the chassis

2) Remove CPU retention bracket

a. Remove the two screws by the hinge of the bracket

b. Remove the screw that the retention bracket slides under when clamping the CPU


c. Be aware that the mount/brace that the retention bracket screwed into will now be loose



3) Examine the brace/mount released.

a. Verify washers and hardware spacers on the mounting arms of the brace




4) If leveling is needed, add non-metallic, non-corrosive plastic or rubber washers that are non or low compressing washers onto the mounting arms to add additional space between the mount/brace and the underside of the motherboard.

Note – this allows for the mounting arms to be positioned lower relative to the heatsink, thereby pulling the heatsink closer to the motherboard and making better contact between the CPU and the heatsink

5) To add an even amount of space amongst all mounting arms, add a sheet rather than washers for spacing. This will distribute the weight over the entire surface area and prevent additional stress at the holes for the mounting arms in the PCB.

Note – If leveling was done for the arms, the order should be Mount/Brace àWasher à Sheet of non-conductive Spacer Material àMotherboard

Note – The washer will still cause strain on the hole in the PCB board, but if it is necessary to level the arms, theoretically it will not be too great. The sheet used may help to spread the force from the area of contact.

6) Reattach the CPU retention bracket to the mount/brace

7) Test the contact between the CPU and the Heatsink

8) Depending on contact:

a. If good contact is made, re-install motherboard into the chassis and re-assemble the machine.

b. If good contact is not present, repeat 2-8 until contact is tight (but not overly tight causing motherboard warping) between the CPU and heatsink.

9) Enjoy better cooling made possible by simple common sense.

This procedure developed by reviewing images found in the service manual on pages 1-8 and 1-9 in conjunction with a short visual inspection of the CPU retention bracket while repasting TIM. I have not seen what components lie under the black brace that the heatsink mounts are attached to, and what may be nearby on the bottom side of the board, so do so at your own risk. This will void your warranty most likely.


EDIT: My OCD is acting up and I am hyper-fixating on the cooling and bracket system of our machine until I get mine back fixed. SORRY ALL!

 

Using washers could increase stress around the pcb holes, a sheet of material with holes for the posts would help even the pressure out.

 

sorry for late reply but didn't used the NB yesterday but checked out the max values from my Display. It's 140hz which i can do without much distortions, only thing i noticed is that every second horizontal line is getting a bit brighter, like the days back with the Interlaced modes. 141hz is theoretically working but i get the typical bandwitdh overload issues, color distortions, flickering etc.

 

To all those wondering about eDP and LVDS support by our laptops, I give you:

EDIT:
This image comes from the P770ZM service manual. Almost all pictures in the P770ZM service manual are of the P750ZM motherboard. Since these boards are practically the same, they should BOTH have the same display connectors located in the same place! No mod for eDP needed most likely (but finding out specifically what it supports... and then finding the correct cable...)

 

So who's gonna be the lucky one... To take their chassis apart.

 

not yet i guess, but who know's when ... just exchanged my display with the same one, but as glossy. N173HGE-L21
Can do only about 100hz with it but i prefer glossy over matte so much more.

 

you, sir, have a lucky hand with panels

 

Mine is 85

 

Exciting if can find find a panel that's not a laughable pathetic 25ms. Honestly can't believe anyone using a laptop cares about angles, how are they using their laptop? Bent over, hovering over it, crouched underneath or learning right or left? It's an issue I don't understand at all.

 

@Zymphad

It becomes quite easy to care for it when bad viewing angles causes family feuds . Imagine a vacation where every evening there is a fight about who will get the best positioning for the movie. Somehow I always end up with the worst (or least good) angle...

I guess that particular problem would be solved by not bringing a DTR during vacation (but then how could I justify buying one :O).

 

Output to a TV. Never had this issue you speak of.

 

I doubt a TV would fit into my Everki Titan, but then again the bag is roomy...

Honestly the post was meant as a humerous one kind of supporting your remarks that people might care too much about viewing angles.

Still it is a true story for me that we often use the laptop for watching movies.

 

well, there are screens where the viewing angles are so bad that if u sit right in front of them, the corners are already showing distortions...

 

Never seen one.

 

A Long time ago in a processor FAR FAR away, IE 386 Intel days that was what 93' ... using word perfect felt like tunnel vision back then. And the power brick could be used as a doorstop.... Nevermind, that last part.

EDIT: Fired up the wayback machine, and out popped a Toshiba T3400CT! I had a very nice uncle in high school, it broke and he told me if I could fix it I could keep it. a fuse and power supply connector later....

 

It should be available at performance pcs ~Wednesday based on my emails with them and Fujipoly.

 

I wouldn't say there exist such a laptop but this can happen on larger screens such as 70+" tvs. So you are right in saying this can happen but when dealing with a 17" screen this is a non factor unless you are literally sitting with your nose touching the screen. Even poor angle screens allow for a +- 35 degree angle shift before color degradation which is almost never used when viewing s laptop. That is why manufactures can cut those corners and supply us with those terrible panels...and many will never even notice it.

 

Oh there are some terrible panels out there lol, the 15.6" 1366x768 breed is particularly bad.

 

<---- previous 15.6" 1366x768 glossy panel user.
(not a P770zm owner, but has been following this thread to get a better idea of what notebooks are available)

 

if performance is your thing, the P770ZM or P377SM-A is pretty much the best you could find these days. MSI would be a contender if their CPUs weren't TDP locked, but unfortunately they are.

 

The P150/170SM are still a decent option too if you need performance and a bit extra batter/less weight and an optical drive.

 

Yeah, that is true, though the cooling system is much more powerful on the ZM series, you could say those machines need it.

 

Depends on what you are looking for. P770ZM is purely performance machine. If you want battery life you'll need something else. I used the P150EM before and would recommend a P170SM with 970M, should run nice and cool. I was not impressed with the P170xx/P150xx series cooling.

 

Well it's that extra CPU power it is designed to output. For gamers a 47W CPU will allow a single GPU to game as well as it would.

 

Very true, but when you want to OC a 4910MQ or 4930MX you'd need a CPU cooler designed for that kind of TDP anyway, so that's why I said their cooling is better. But then again, very few would need that.

 

Meaker, your PowerNotebooks for Clevo P670SE advertise 17.3" 4K QFHD. Please do tell us more about this panel. Most importantly, is it matte or glossy? (I will never use glossy panel again, even if it has anti-reflective coating).

 

Could you link where you see that?

 

http://powernotebooks.com/Sager-NP8671-Clevo-P670SE-gaming-laptops-notebooks-sys-6880.html

 

Yeah that needs changing.

 

So I did some more testing, now with max fans... (fn+1)
Turns out I can run 4.4GHz on all cores with -0.85mV and never get above 84C in Cinebench 15 multithreaded (score:848)
FAHBench doesn't get me above 81C in implicit single-precision
Prime95 smallFFT gives me 98C, thermal throttling and clocks down to ~4.3 GHz
Idle is at ~42C

Idle atually goes down to 36-40C with a browser running...

Edit: my fast memory has not arrived yet, so all tests are done with 1333MHz cas-9 memory (ouch)