*** Official Clevo P770ZM / Sager NP9772 and P770ZM-G / Sager NP9773 Owner's Lounge ***

can we calibrate color ourselves? icc profile or something..not sure is it related

 

I agree with you on this, however I guess people with sensitive eyes can get frustrated about still seeing pixels.

For the TN panel notebookcheck included a calibrated icc profile in their review. Pretty kind of them

http://www.notebookcheck.net/One-K73-5N-Clevo-P771ZM-Notebook-Review.135088.0.html
Scroll down to the Display section.

 

have you tried that profile? I loaded it and my screen feels yellow lol

 

3K@ 45-50 fps on ultra is acceptable to me

 

for that ull have to get at least 90-100 fps on FHD with the same settings, so best to squeeze out every drop of performance u can get

 

Moved to later post (To add more info)

 

are those temps for CPU, GPU or both?

 

Just CPU, updated post to state that along with some other info

Windows 7 is flyin on this machine, 8.1 would freeze randomly

I think I just have bad luck with Windows 8.1 because it did it to me on my P151SM1 too, and everyone I talk to has no clue what I'm talking about.

On the P151SM1 it would randomly hang for 1-1.5seconds about every 10-15 minutes, or just randomly.

On the P770ZM it would just freeze in some situations (and would not unfreeze causing me to have to hold down the power button.. >.>)

But I haven't had a single issue with Windows 7 on it. Well except having to uninstall Hotkey for win 7 and install the windows 8 version because the Windows 7 version gimps your keyboard and customization haha

I think windows 7 might run a little hotter though.. I'm not sure
Edit: It may also just be Samsung High Performance vs. High Performance

Also an update on that pixel! After I intalled windows 7 for a brief moment during the first boot up that 'dead' pixel started to flash green.. I have determined it is stuck on blue most of the time though. Pretty sure its not dead though, just being stupid.

 

Nah couldn't yet, I'm still expecting my p771zm, windows has a small calibration program, although you'll need to do it with bare eye.

 

u can also use the nvidia driver manager to adjust it by eye.

 

If that's CPU that is pre5y good. GPU not very good.

 

Those are just CPU temps.

I will add GPU temps for Dying Light later, I'm currently installing Dragon Age: Inquisition and will also be testing Alien: Isolation. (CPU and GPU temps for both, I just completely neglected to check GPU temps for Dying Light because I'm not really concerned about the GPU temp's, NVIDIA seems to have their s**t together )

 

When applying IC Diamond and GC Extreme to the CPU/GPU, which one of these TIM's do you need to use less? Their performance is almost identical and the prices(for 2 tubes of 1.5g IC Diamond and 1 tube of 3.5g GC Extreme) are very similar too. I can't decide which one to buy

 

Im not sure if you need to apply less than one or the other, but you always want the least amount possible while still filling the gap (Ive heard about the thickness of a sheet of paper).
Though there is a difference between the two pastes.
IC diamond is easier to apply and is recomended if youre new to repasting or if you are unsure of your ability to apply it.
GC Extreme is thicker and thus harder to apply but I have seen a lot of reviews with people getting ~3-5C cooler than with IC diamond

 

gc extreme seems to be a tad better than ICD but ure right, differences are negligible. as zach already said, ull most probably use the same amount with either and best to use as little as possible. generally, a small drop of each in the middle of the chip is enough for the heatsink to spread it equally across the whole surface

 

Are you sure? I watched some youtube videos and it should the other way around. IC Diamond is more like chewing gum and GC Extreme is like creme, thus easier to apply.

 

I don't have experience with ICD. GC extreme is a lot easier after you warm up the tube in warm water. It's still very challenging to do credit card method but my last couple of pastes went well with pressure method. It is better to have a little too much, stress on the a little, than not enough. These globs you see come from the factory can be detrimental to temps. That's why I don't bother with ICD upgrades. I like seeing the insides and pasting myself anyways. Kind of like doing maintenance on your own car.

 

from ur lips / fingertips to god's ears my friend, couldnt have put it better tweaking is FUN!

 

I know it's likely not to need mentioned, but let us know your results!

 

Try it out for a bit and let your eyes get used to it. A lot of times a good calibration is seen as not good just because it's so vastly different than the default. Also, not everybody sees the same way. So what might look yellow to you might not be yellow to someone else in a different environment. So if it doesn't work for you, try out a few others or do yourself.

 

For those of you trying to calibrate your monitor I have a few suggestions. I calibrate tvs on the side and have calibrated many monitors. My equipment is an i1d3 colorimeter that I profile against an i1pro spectrometer. With that said you will find that when you copy settings from other computer and tvs for that matter you have a really high risk in it actually increasing the DE (DE is the error in your measurement vs the correct value target). Tvs allow for better control in the white balance that computers so I won't really get into that. If you actually want your screen to be calibrated I would suggest buying a meter and doing it yourself. It's not very difficult to calibrate a computer and I would be more than happy to help you along the way. And since you just finished calibrating your computer might as well do it to your tv too . For those that want to still take the gamble and use copied settings I will calibrate mine once it arrives and post my settings. If anyone has any questions regarding where to buy the stuff needed or how much or even how to calibrate please feel free to ask.

 

Speaking of to god's ear, I have something that I'd love for you to help figure out for the group here and the P750ZM group. If you have opened up your machine, I'm sure you have seen the mounting equipment for the heatsink. What I want to know is whether you can run a bare die by removing the retention mechanism, using a MSI bare die kit, and the stock heatsink? Specifically whether or not the heatsink retainers on the board sit too high and would need replaced or not. Further, if the stock heat sink cannot reach it and sit evenly because of the height drop, whether another heatsink from clevo would be mounted so broad as this to be swappable for use with bare die? Just a thought that popped into my head while repasting...

 

@pukemon, @jaybee83, @ZachZombify

Thanks guys! It's decided, non scratchy GC Extreme it is

 

Noctua NH-T1 or whatever it's called too is pretty good. Gelid about a degree better, but just letting you know if availability or price are a factor.

 

haha nice one pukemon, where did u get that? or did u make it?

@ajc9988: yeah, weve been wondering about this before already. in any case, it would be quite the operation, since ud basically need to remove the whole mobo in order to access the backside and remove the retention mechanism... i for one am not going to aim for that, since it would be even outside MY comfort zone delid and exchange IHS TIM will be enough for me

speaking of which: got my cutter, heat resistant silicone sealant, CLU + cleaning kit and conformal coating ready here, probably gonna take a shot at my i5-4460S this weekend and see how it goes

 

Sager np6678 or sumtin' like that. Got na na na na na batman! stuck in my head today. Won't get here until Monday. Got Tuesday off though.

Ugh. The memory I waited to go on sale so long or get coupon from new egg is $14 cheaper regular price now.

 

lol now thats just bad luck ok, spent some time with the gf, now back to testing lets see how far i can go with OCZ Freeze

 

Keep in mind: 4790 (non K), 970M, 24GB ram, stock TIM, flat on a table, auto fans
Also keep in mind that these are from me observing programs periodically throughout playing
so these results may be somewhat inaccurate

Programs: FRAPS, HWmonitor, HWmonitor Pro trial, Core Temp, Windows Task Manager
Now with GPU temps (thanks @jaybee83)
-------------------------------
Max settings means the highest possible settings for ALL options (including Anti-aliasing, ambient occlusion, etc.)
These results are based off custom Graphics settings (they are based on the highest preset available)
-------------------------------
Dying Light (V1.2.1)
Everything maxed (include view distance), 1080P, vsync on
-------------------------------
CPU:
Max: 82C
Stayed around 65-75C (usually 67-72C)
GPU:
Max: 62C

Cutscenes
Min: 28FPS
Max: 60FPS
Average: ~35-40FPS

Gameplay
Min: 35FPS
Max: 60FPS
Usually ~40-50FPS
-------------------------------
Dragon Age: Inquisition (V1.3?)
Everything maxed, 1080P, vsync on
-------------------------------
CPU:
Max:79C
GPU:
Max: 64C

Gameplay
Min: 27FPS
Max: 45FPS
Stays around low to mid 30's
-------------------------------
More to come.

 

The best resolution depends on the content you are viewing to be fair and 4k will scale to 1080p pretty well. The main penalty is cost and power in that case.

 

@Meaker, kind of way off topic, but every time I see your picture I think of Plankton from Spongebob lol
What is it?

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transistor_(video_game)

Learn how to use google image search

 

i was thinking the same thing at first zach had to be enlightened as well

 

Do you guys know if the Samsung xp 941 pcie ssd can be made as a bootable drive for windows? I was doing some reading and found that it is only possible if the bios has the boot rom in it. I was considering using the 256 GB pcie as an operating system and programs drive and buying a 500 GB 850 pro SSD for games and keeping the 1tb HDD that comes with it as misc. non important/recoverable stuff. Sound like a plan or is there a better cheaper way to achieve maximum capabilities from the laptop?

 

if i were u id wait a bit for the sm951, should he available shortly otherwise, ure golden, installing a os on the samsung pcie drives is not an issue. just make sure u do a uefi install with win8/8.1!

 

I think you are right. After checking it out it I think it is totally worth the wait. I'll just buy the 850 pro for now and load the OS on it and just do a clean install once I get the 941. Another question hopefully someone can clear up is the ram. I have been doing some reading and I'm getting mixed signals. So the 4790k asks for 1600 MHz ram and I was planning on buying 1866 MHz ram but I'm not sure it would provide any benefit. I know the ram is suppose to be 1.35 V but I'm assuming it still uses 204 pin despite to desktop processor? Also do you guys have any recommendations for top of the line ram? Usually I base my buying of ram on lots of reviews and high ratings haha not exactly an "informed" purchase.

Edit: sorry for the noob post I'm sure all this could be answered if I waited for the laptop to arrive but I would like to get everything here so it's ready to go the day I get it.

 

G. Skill or crucial.

 

fixed that for ya

as to your questions: ram doesnt give much of an overall performance increase, so basically just go for the sticks u can afford and yes, batman is running mobile 204-pin so-dimm factor ram sticks at 1.35v despite the desktop cpu. the fastest top-tier sticks are available from kingston, corsair and g.skill. crucial is high-quality, but doesnt offer the top frequency afaik (atm 2133 mhz). basing ur purchase on reviews and ratings aint such a bad strategy at all, its rather wise keep it up!

 

You might remember one of my old ones was for bastion this is one of the few games i pre-ordered since i knew i would like it.

Homeworld remastered has that honour too

 

Thanks that's what I figured but better to make sure. I spoke with Donald at power notebook when I placed my order and he said that 2133 ram although compatible had several stability issues and it was best to avoid. He seemed very knowledgable so I took him at his word. Has anyone tried to run using 32gb of 2133 ram? It's basically the same price at 1866 but if true I would prefer stability over the slight performance gain. It would be interesting to see if the increased speed actually provided any end user benefits to the user on the notebook. I know even with 1866 ram as good as the 980m card is I would still suspect that will be the bottle neck of the computer. Am I wrong?

 

I saved my money instead of getting 1866. If you're that insistent on it, wait for ddr4.

 

I'm glad your added that disclaimer as I believe your analysis on merchantability and the device working as specified are faulty.

 

Oh if you guys were wondering what my ambient temperatures are, I can't really say for sure, but I live in Florida so they are usually pretty warm

 

850 pro 512gb $290 on amazon currently. 850 pro 256GB is $160.

And evo 500gGB $200. Evo 256GB $109 and 1TB $390.


I would jump on quick. Don't know how long that will last.

 

Considering the lack of IGP there really is no reason other than benchmarking to go above 1866mhz if it costs more.

 

benchmarking IS the only valid reason, indeed

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

To be frank, if you do CPU intensive stuff besides gaming, you can see benefit up to 2133 on haswell (depending on the program in question)

 

actually, up to 2400/2666 mhz, depending on timings:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7364/memory-scaling-on-haswell/10

 

Agreed. 32Gb G.Skill 2133 kit sitting on my desk unopened...waiting...watching...getting dusty...

 

Nope, not a perfect analysis. Personally, I think there exist a combo of two things heat: 1) bad paste jobs (trips both merchantability possibly and manufacturing defect), and 2) test used. Using the hottest test imaginable (Prime95 small fft). After my repaste, I've made it to 4.5ghz while having similar throttling under extreme tests. As to design defect, I doubt they were qualifying the chips on prime95 small fft instead of XTU, wPrime, BurnInTest, and the multitude of others that put the temp in line with what is acceptable in the industry (not to say prime95 has no purpose).

Anyways, if you'd like, I can break them down with better/more analysis while not analyzing anyone's specific case (unless you are from Cali., then please contact an attorney w/in your jurisdiction or pm).

1. Negligence
   1. Duty
   2. Breach
   3. Causation
   4. Damages
2. Strict Liability
   1. Design Defect (i.e. all defective, can get electrocuted/burned)
   2. Manufacturing Defect (i.e. yours was unsafe)
      1. Faulty Components
      2. Faulty Integration (thermal paste or heat sink integration)
      3. Component failure
   3. Warning defect (failed to warn of latent risks like your balls will burn if you leave it on your lap at 4.5ghz with auto fan)
3. Contract/Warranty
   1. Express warranty - representation, oral or in writing, that caused the purchase
      1. Safety glass in early cars case
      2. Hairy hand case - after this skin graft your hand will be 100%
   2. Implied Warranty of merchantability
      1. A product will be fit for its ordinary purpose
   3. Implied warranty of fitness for a particular purpose
      1. You gave your info to the clerk and relied on their expertise that the product is the one that is fit for your needs
      2. Can be disclaimed, but cannot generally be disclaimed (all express or implied warranties are hearby disclaimed)
      NONE OF THE ABOVE CONSTITUTES LEGAL ADVICE OR OPINION. IT IS GENERAL LEGAL PRINCIPLES AND PERSONAL OPINION IN AN INDIVIDUAL CAPACITY (NOT AS AN ATTORNEY OR COUNSEL) AND IS NOT CURRENTLY ANALYZING ANY SPECIFIC OR GENERAL RIGHTS OF PARTIES THAT MAY OR MAY NOT READ THE STATEMENT OR ARE IN THIS FORUM, OR HAVE STATED ISSUES SIMILAR TO THE ISSUES DISCUSSED IN THIS STATEMENT, IN WHOLE OR IN PART. SPEAK TO YOUR DISTRIBUTOR OR RETAILER DIRECTLY FOR INFORMATION ON ANY WARRANTY THAT MAY OR MAY NOT APPLY TO ANY PRODUCT. FOR AN EXPLANATION OR ANALYSIS OF YOUR LEGAL RIGHTS, PLEASE SEEK OUT AN ATTORNEY IN YOUR JURISDICTION FOR LEGAL ADVICE OR OPINION OF COUNSEL