*** Official Clevo P65xSA/SE/SG / Sager NP8650/51/52 Owner´s Lounge ***

the heatskink is linked to the metal plate of the fans, unscrew it too !

 

Guys, noone has an answer for my previous post?

 

Have you tried setting the power management mode to prefer maximum performance in the NVIDIA Control Panel?

This is what I mean:

 

Yeah, I did. It was just odd to me that the CPU heatsink comes off without the fan being attached but the GPU heatsink does not.

 

Hello everyone, I ordered a base config P650SG:

Spoiler

Some questions:

What's the max OC people have gotten with the 980M on both factory BIOS and Prema Mod? OV as well if you've done that.

What can I expect to squeeze out of the measly 180W brick? Is anyone using a Dell 230W/240W/330W brick with the adapter cable and does it help?

Lastly, anybody using a calibrated ICC profile for the matte 1080p IPS screen? I did some digging and found that NotebookCheck has no less than 5 different ICC profiles for the AUO B156HAN01.2 panel: P651SG P751ZM WA50SJQ Acer V5-1 Acer V5-2

However, black level on the Acer V5-1 panel is twice as high as the others, which results in contrast ratio being cut in half. Now that is some funky panel variation.

P651SG:

Spoiler

Acer V5-1:

Spoiler

 

unfortunately, displays haven been known to have quite the high variation in specs such as minimum / maximum brightness, color spectrum, out-of-the-box gamma, etc.

in any case, welcome to the P65x family, im sure ull enjoy that machine

 

the color profile for xmg 505 on NBC is the best one they've had so far compared to all previous profiles

 

Which one, P505 or U505?

 

you should probably specify if u mean the xmg p505 (p651se) or the xmg u505 (p751zm)

ha got ninja'd by octiceps. time to go to bed! *yawns* see u tomorrow guys!

 

That's true, it's just seeing the black level on the Acer made me think it was a totally different panel for a second

Thanks, I hope I do

 

Just an update. I received my laptop from sager with the LG panel, man this things is good. I have loads of comparison pictures if you guys are interested. Also, I have succesfully mounted a 7mm (MX100) and a 9.5mm (1TB HDD) in the P650SE. Some modding was required, I'll create a post on it soon

 

Swweeet

 

get it up quickly, i'll be getting mine next week!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I'll will just and then when we receive our new laptops and they all have the clockblocked vBIOS

 

Ok...so received this laptop yesterday and have been playing arround with it ever since.

My impression is 99% positive until now.

My main gripes are:
-the F1 to F12 keys are a litlle bit dodgy and the backlight is shining out more in that area.
-there is some flex in the keyboard and speaker grill in the upper part of the screen.
-there os some flex to the screen

I have also installed a fresh copy of windows from MYSDN iso and after installing all drivers and software but before activating windows I tried Windows Update and 90% of updates failes to install.

When looking for this problem online it was saying something about "custom OEM software"....could this be due to the hotkey app or?....

@LoneSyndal

I remember reading before that besides undervolting your CPU voltage you also increased the 2 TDP sliders and the L2 cache(?).

Would you mimd explaining what values did you use and why?

Also how did you do your stability testing afterwards?

When I run Intel Burn Test with hwinfo64 on after some time CPU goes down to 2996 and stays there but in the Thermal throttling section of HWInfo it sill appears no.

Any idea what's the reason for this ?

 

p650sg that's for sure

 

Probably power throttling

LOL I'm just giving you a hard time

 

Yeah...it's definetly power throttling.

It shows me 100% power limit throttling under XTU but I remember Lone Syndal managed to get it to stay ay 3200 mhz under power throttle and I'd like to know why..

 

Probably undervolted and/or increased power limits or turbo time limits

 

Well...I undervolted Core by -80mV and Cache by -60mV.

Increased turbo boost short power max and turbo boost power max to 87 W and 77 W

Ran Prime95 and for the first 5 minutes it sat at abou 3.2Ghz (while under full Current Limit Throttle) and after that Piwer Limit Throttling went up to 100% (Current Limit went down to 0%) and it dropped to 3.0 with some frequent oscillations to 3.1....


Guessing that that's after the timer for Turbo Boost Short Power Max expired.

Is there any way to prolongue that timer?

 

unless u have that option under XTU there would probably only be the way to unlock it in the BIOS or, if its locked for good, hardcode it into the BIOS.

in both cases, @Prema would be the guy to talk to

 

Option is there. It does nothing. I defer to my i7 CPU guide for long explanation as I be sleepy. If Prema can somehow make these BIOSes grant the HQ chips the power they desire, that'd be good news. As it stands, you get 57W max and then it drops to 47W after a short while. Read guide. *falls asleep*

 

That's what I was guessing also.

Thanks for the clarification guys.

Well...I guess I won't worry about it anymore

I'll just undervolt the core for temps.

Should I also keep the undervolt on the Cache?

Is there any significant advantage and/or downsides?

I see most people are undervolting core but lone syndal was the first guy I saw undervolting cache

 

Few spared watts cannot hurt...

 

yep, undervolting both core and cache gives u the most heat savings just leave digital / analog IO and system agent at stock (important for RAM stability and also gives you higher wattage when undervolted *lol*)

not even sure if u have those options in xtu for the mobile HQ, but just making sure

 

So in XTU stress test i went from frequent power throttling without undervolt to rock solid 3.4Ghz with 80mV undervolt on core and cache.

I'll do 1Hr intel burn test and overnight prime 95 test later tonight

 

Hi @kaded,

I can think of a few things. Firstly you said you have 8GB RAM.. Now it's probably a single stick and here in lies your problem.. @omer.sak did a few tests and actually found that having dual RAM sticks would increase fps by 10-20... So get another RAM stick.. Also what drivers are you using? I would suggest 344.75 for now.. Install those and also in the NVIDIA control pannel, set power management in 3D settings to Prefer Maxiumum performanc... See omer's tests below too

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...2-owner´s-lounge.763159/page-253#post-9925480

@D2 Ultima, I've applied ICD.. So are you saying that to remove ICD, soak it for a while.. Can I soak it with water? I don't have Articlean and only have alcohol wipes... Will I have to get some alchohol or articlean?

 

Do not use water. Alcohol is fine.

 

I never hit the Current Limit Throttling with just XTU, but my earlier tests did show images of my settings.

One of the tests I ran was using Throttlestop to bypass the Power Limit Throttling and let the core run at its supposed core settings.

Adjusting TDP should be possible already, but if it doesnt for you, you can try using the Prema Mod BIOS since thats what I had been using.

For undervolt test, Prime95 would be the go-to program for me and tick every -5mV until It starts having problems per each 15-20minute test.

 

I just got my P650SE in yesterday, and I have a few questions/observations, so I'll break it up into a few different posts on different subjects.

First, what 1080p IPS matte panel have most of you been getting? Mine is reported by Windows as LGD037E and HWiNFO as LP156WF4-SLB5.

Running calibration with my Spyder4 shows contrast as 560:1 and sRGB gamut at 78%, with a very inaccurate blue primary. This isn't really bad for a notebook display, but it's not as good as I was expecting either, about the same as the LG TN panel in my old laptop from 2 years ago.

Looking it up online, it seems this is a LVDS panel. I knew the standard TN panel was LVDS, but I thought the IPS ones were all supposed to be eDP? Also, HWiNFO reports the panel as being manufactured in 2011, which I think is weird.

I guess my main question is whether this is the same panel everybody else has been getting, or if my reseller is dumping old stock off on me. If it's the same as everybody else then no big deal, but if it's the later I want to know so I can file a complaint.

My secondary question is if I get a better eDP panel to replace this one, where can I get the correct cable to connect it, or is it even possible to do so?

On a side note, attached is my calibration file if you're interested.

 

Okay, I've now received my XMG P505 (rebranded Clevo 651SE) and it's gorgeous, the chassis looks much better than I was expecting. and the bead-blasted matte case looks stunning, with small little sparkly bits in it. The lazer-etched XMG logo on the cover is nice too.

Anyway, I have one problem - I can't figure out how to get the damn baseplate off - I've undone all of the screws (including the ones with the keyboard label, but I can't get enough grip on the base to lift it off and there isn't enough of a gap around the edges to push a plastic spudger into. Does anyone have any tips?

I only ordered my machine with the minimum base 4Gb RAM, as I have 2x8Gb sticks of Corsair Vengeance 2133Mz RAM I want to install!

 

Use a thin object to lift the edges. I used an old credit card after lifting the back edges.

 

On to the GPU. Running 3DMark on stock drivers, no OC or modded BIOS or vBIOS on a fresh install gets me 6635/7577 on Fire Strike and 21016/55245 on Cloud Gate (overall/graphics). GPU temps running the normal benchmarks never exceeds 66C and running Furmark maxes at 70C. Is this inline with what most of you have been getting on the 970M?

It seems my laptop came with the 306/306 BIOS/EC that is already out there, but it has a newer vBIOS than any I've seen mentioned. Mine is 84.04.1F.40.27 dated 12/22/14. The one Prema has in his "stock" file is 84.04.1F.00.BD dated 9/17/14. I dumped the newer vBIOS using GPU-Z and attached it to this post if Prema or any of you are interested.

I have the new drivers installed (I'm a little OCD about using the newest drivers), so I can't tell if this is one of the new OC-blocked vBIOSes Prema mentioned, but I'll let you know once the new unlocked drivers are released. I plan to OC the vBIOS itself anyways, and I'll update the results when I do.

Edit: With the new drivers I can confirm this vBIOS is not locked; I can OC just fine.

 

I also have the same panel. This is the LG IPS panel XoticPC offers as a $45 upgrade. Mine also says manufactured in 2011. I'm applying your icc profile, thanks for that

 

I got there in the end, once I managed to get a small bit lifted off with a spudger, it was then easy. I've now managed to install my RAM.

Two questions, though:

1) One of the screws is longer than the rest, I didn't realise this when taking them out - do you know which hole this is meant for? Perhaps one of the keyboard holes??

2) How do you enter the Bios? I held down F2 when starting, which I thought was the function key for the bios on Clevos, but nothing happened

Thanks!

 

You may have to use 90% isoprophyl or something, but Articlean works very well. Alcohol wipes are not going to do well on it, I guarantee it. I would not recommend soaking it with water for very obvious reasons, but feel free to test water on the heatsink one day and see if it lets it wipe off instantly.

 

Two screws are actually longer, the top left and right corner(perspective of using laptop). Also, I tried that ICC profile but it seems really red...

 

Lastly, I'm having issues with the airplane mode driver. I installed it and rebooted, but it doesn't seem like it did anything, and the FN+F11 combo doesn't work. It shows up as a error in Device Manager, saying something about the driver being for the wrong platform. I tried uninstalling the driver, but the uninstall didn't work, and now it's all messed up. Now in Device Manager it says there are no drivers, and when I try to manually install the drivers, it says something about finding the correct drivers, but the path is incorrect so they can't install?

Have any of you had a similar issue? All of the other devices/drivers are working fine. I can still toggle airplane mode by clicking on the wifi icon on the system tray, so it's not a big enough deal to cause me to reinstall Windows again, but it is somewhat annoying.

 

The standard 1080p matte IPS panel at Eurocom where I ordered my P650SG is the AU Optronics B156HAN01.2 (AUO12ED). It's eDP and listed as 700:1 72% NTSC on the spec sheet, but NotebookCheck's review found it to have much higher contrast (almost 1200:1) but lower color gamut (80% sRGB instead of 100%) and on the yellow side.

 

1) Back corners
2) Spam the F2 key on startup

 

If you've never used a calibrated display before it probably will look red or yellowish, as most displays are natively very blue, especially WLED backlit displays, and our eyes get used to seeing the blue tint as white. If this is the case, you'll get used to it quickly, and uncalibrated displays will start looking very blue, lol. If you adjust the color temperature on your TV or external monitor to "Warm" or "6500k" (the correct setting) and it looks the same as your laptop does now then the profile is correct.

I created the profile using the Spyder program, and tested it using ColorHCFR, and color temperature was tracking really well at 6500k.

Or it could just be a variance between our panels, as they're not exactly the same, but they should still be reasonably close. Though I guess it's possible that my colorimeter is somewhat off and I've gotten used to seeing the red tint .

 

Thanks for the responses regarding the panel. If others have the same panel, and it seems like that's the case, it's not a big deal, though it is a little disappointing. I would still appreciate any info regarding the possible cable required to upgrade the panel to an eDP one.

 

Most have the AUO B156HAN01.2 as far as I remember.

That calibration appears to be 60% gamut. Even a 72% TN panel might look better due to better colours. RIP high gamut screens for sale. It's only "not bad" for a notebook screen because people don't care about gamut very much. "What? 45% gamut (62% sRGB) screen on a lenovo Y50? WHO CARES IT'S LIKE $900!" is the thought process.

eDP is not required for IPS. IPS is not some magical panel that requires more information than LVDS is prepared to transmit, unlike the 120Hz panels which DO need eDP. And as for it being created in 2011, that's absolutely 100% normal. My machine bought in 2013 has a panel made in january 2010. Panels are made and discontinued because not enough people buy them at that time, then people use them later if they can find stock selling. Also, if a panel was manufactured without changes for the last 3-4 years, it makes sense again that you simply might have one made long ago.

It's not the same panel, but it might not be dumping old stock. Unless it is specified which panel you want (or which panel they are selling) you can get anything that satisfies the requirements listed on their page. If you bought "1080p FHD IPS matte screen" and you got that 60% NTSC gamut LVDS one instead of an eDP 72% NTSC gamut one, they did not fail their purchase requirements.

You may not have the eDP connector soldered onto your board. If it is, great. If it is not, you're out of luck and limited to LVDS.

 

Oh, one more thing I forgot to mention, I found this out after the fact, but if anybody plans to upgrade the thermal pads on the vRAM to something better for OCing ( I was planning to do this at the same time I repasted) you need the 1.5mm thick ones, not 1mm...

 

Thanks for the tip. But upgrading to higher conductivity thermal pads will not increase OC on the VRAM. I've tried many times in the past. If it's low-voltage GDDR5 as I've heard the 980M has, there's not much you can do about the sucky memory overclocks besides tightening timings in the Prema unlocked BIOS.

 

I've had good luck using Acetone first to get off the old paste, then using 90% isoprophyl afterwards to ensure there's no residue left.

 

Which pads did you use?

 

I ordered the Fujipoly Ultra's but had to end up re-using the stock pads for now (though I did cut them to fit better as the vRAM isn't in a straight row, and as it came the pads didn't cover the RAM completely). I'm going to see if FrozenCPU will let me exchange the 1mm for 1.5mm ones as I never opened the package (it was obvious the stock pads were thicker as soon as I popped off the heatsink). Though based on octiceps' comment, and my reluctance to take everything apart again, I may just sell the 1mm ones on eBay and be done with it.

 

Yeah the Fulipoly Premium and Extreme pads are what I used too. No difference in performance in my other laptops. I actually prefer working with stock pads as the Fujipolys are powdery/crumbly and much harder. Depending on heatsink pressure on the VRAM chips, you might find that a 1mm Fujipoly does the same job as a 1.5mm stock pad since the Fujipoly doesn't compress at all. Because the worst thing you can do is get too-thick thermal pads which reduce pressure or raise the heatsink off of the GPU die, creating a gap.

Did you order from FrozenCPU recently? And they fulfilled your order despite the recent rumors of a skeleton crew/the company going under?

 

Okay, I've now replaced the screws properly, I also had to take some care popping the panel on at the back of the laptop, as the lip was bent out the first time (just to the left of the rear SATA input, if looking from above), thought I'd damaged it for a minute, but looks okay now.

F2 doesn't seem to work to activate the Bios, maybe it's different on an XMG?