*** Official Clevo P65xRS(-G), P65xRP6(-G) / Sager NP8153(-S), NP8152(-S) Owner's Lounge ***

No, I mean that since data is sent on both rising and falling edges for DDR* RAM, the effective clock rate is twice the nominal clock rate.

 

It appears I was wrong. The bios update "fixed" the issue for 1 day. Now it is far worse. The 1070 gpu crashed more than 4 times in 1 day with normal use. It appears it is the same issue as others . I guess the gpu will die eventually.

I will have to send the laptop for a second RMA. Last time in my life I will buy an expensive electronic equipment in the first batch. 2 months RMA in the first 3 months.

 

Got it, thanks!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

I feel ya. We're definitely early adopters with the new pascal rollout. If there's a lesson to be learned here I think it's to wait if you are able to.

For me the BIOS update fixed the big issues. And my temps seem to be settling in to a comfortable place now. I'm not sure that my system is running as well as it should, though. I still get hitching while playing games. Given, I don't play many right now. Last night I was running Subnautica (which is fun!) at basically max settings and it runs butter smooth most of the time. But there are fairly frequent hitches. That could be because the game isn't optimized. Or it could be my system. Not sure. I need to get some of these diagnostic tools everyone uses up and running.

 

Hey there!

Pardon the ignorance -- I've been lurking on this thread since pretty much the beginning: I have a P650RS-G (Purchased from HID). It came with BIOS 1.05.03 and EC 1.05.02.

That being said, would it be safe to upgrade to the 1.05.04 Sager BIOS that was posted (About page 300 of this thread) or should I leave the laptop as-is? Any special steps involved or just standard BIOS flash?

I had a weird incident where my Samsung 950 PRO was not recognized in BIOS but recognized on the Windows installation window -- at least I have Windows installed on the M2 Nvme drive...

Thanks for the help!

 

Alright, so I"m going to tackle my first repaste this weekend. I have already purchased a tube of Gelid GC extreme and the Arctic 2 step cleaning kit, but this is my first repaste....anything I should know?

I have watched several Youtube videos, and have the application method and process pretty dialed in, but I can't find anything specific to the p650RS (nor last year's 980m version in the same chassis). Do I need to disconnect and remove the fans, or can I just pull out the heatsinks and move along? I"m sure that I will discover this upon opening the laptop, but I'd like to know what I'm getting into ahead of time.

@Xileforce didn't you repaste your machine? How was it? Has anyone else repasted who would be willing to share their experience?

 

I'm planning on doing it when I go home for Thanksgiving. But I'll prob do gelid GC. I've always just put a drop on and used something like a credit card to smoothly spread it evenly across the surface. Idk if this is the best way though.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

 

I also have a P670RS-G from HIDevolution. I inquired about a new BIOS/EC and they said that they will look into getting one for me. This was about 2 weeks ago though, so it's not a quick process. Their instructions were to not use the Sager BIOS, so I chose not to. But I know that some people have used the Sager BIOS/EC and have had no problems. So up to you if you want to try it.

 

I was given 1.05.04 BIOS from HID technical support -- flash was successful! No brick and BIOS now shows 1.05.04!

Can't wait to test it out!

 

A thin line paste on i7 BGA and two thin lines on Gpu and let the heatsink do the rest

 

still running strong on my system, sorta confused how I am still lucky with mine, the only issue I had was the CPU maxing out thing before that bios update came out. I got mine almost two months ago now.

I once put a faulty realtek audio driver on it, but other than that recently it has been great.. Am I alone with this?

 

Naa. Mine is running fine as far as I can tell. I updated the BIOS (not the EC) that you posted a while ago. My fans are fine, my CPU usage is fine. Light bleed was never a problem. I don't have system shutdowns that others are experiencing. Seems good to me.

I haven't really put the system through it's paces with games yet, though. Just a few here and there which it does a good job with.

 

Remember the forums are more full of the people having issues rather than those out playing games

 

Nope, mine is perfect other than temps, which really aren't going higher than about 82 max CPU and 78 max gpu. Only reason I am repasting is that they were a little lower to begin.

Even hooking up to my tv via hdmi never gave me issues, but I never tried prior to newest BIOS.

I have minimal light bleed in 2 corners that isn't nearly as bad as my previous machine (AW15r2 980m 4K). The red headphone jack light turns off when windows boots, and that has been the only abnormal behavior (knock on wood)

 

I've been lurking this forum a few weeks ago and decided to purchase the 15 inch 1070 (p650rs-g). I haven't been keeping up with the posts as of then and missed about a hundred pages, but I have a question if someone can help me.
Last few days my laptop has crashed during intensive use about 4 times (just black screen then reboot, gpu crash?). How to resolve this?
Thank you for any help

 

I think one of @Mr. Fox videos gives a step by step pasting tutorial. I'm not sure which video it is, but I remember getting to it from this page:

https://biosmods.wordpress.com/2016/08/22/ocu/

EDIT: here's a link that shows a repaste of a similar Clevo by @HTWingNut



Also be sure to get the "service manual" - there is a link somewhere in this thread. The manual shows where the various screws are etc but is otherwise pretty useless.

 

Have you monitored your temperatures to see if it is overheating before it crashes? Is it only in specific programs, or any program when it is pushed hard enough. Have you checked the windows event viewer to see maybe what is causing the crashes?

 

I have HWmonitor open and, though I don't know the temps when the laptop crashes, the game I play is WoW. Typical temp after hour of play was average 65c with max 85c on the 6700 i7. GPU is about 5c lower.
Overwatch causes the same problems, so I think it's something that happens when you push it too hard with any program.
I have not updated bios or anything.

EDIT: I'm not familiar with windows event logs, but there are "critical" kernel-power logs which correspond to the crashes (event id 41). I can't find anything else on the matter but the tool is not familiar to me.

 

I would check game logs also. If nothing there then max fans to test of it is heat

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

My backlight bleed on my 4k panel P650RS-G is atrocious on all corners. I've already RMA'd once -- I'm not about to do it again, but not all 4k panels on this model are alike in that regard.

 

I'm looking into this topic and I think I have read almost everything. I was wondering if there is a consistent review (photos, videos, game benchmarks) and comparison to other laptops, real weight.. anyone can point me to?

 

Curious question: Does someone of you feel that the cable coming out of the power supply is somewhat short. I can not place my notebook on a dedium table comfortly without having the brick hanging in the air (respectively placing it on a chair). I could place it on the table - in which case I´d need an extention for the cable running to the power supply

Best regards

phila.

Thx! I found this one on YT some days ago, when I was looking for a repasting video. Still I am really keen of sseening a video that shows the exact version of our notebook with the interlinked heatpipes that (at least in my case) seem to be taped to the fans housings as well. Unfortunately it alltogether looks somewhat more complicated than the video above.

 

Yes, that was the first thing I noticed... The cable from the power supply is too short.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

It's really sad to hear those having persistent problems esp those who RMA'd... Here am I enjoying my P650RP6; Gsync and all. To think I ordered from Xotic (via Amazon), shipped to some US address, and shipped here in the Philippines, and again shipped via another plane to our place. Went thru the risk thinking it would be hell to RMA my laptop if there is even a slight some problem I would not be able to fix. I'm even an early adopter, ordered one as soon as it became available in Amazon (August).
Just maybe, Xotic did a good job pre-testing their laptops and solving the problems before shipping. If we could identify those having problems where they ordered their laptops we could identify why some have bad units.

 

Surprisingly philippines mails survived more than within US. I order parts from there via a friend for a lot of stuff only in stock there and never an issue but the one time i ship something to las vegas the $1300 GPUs pcb is subjected to so much improper force that it buckles and needs to be Rebaked to work o.o

I dont have ANY backlight bleed on my P670 either (ordered 2nd day of availability) and had no issues as well.

Unless you had visual upgrades like etching xotic never touched it themselves either so its all on sager
I assume you ordered with a drive And all that so they could Actually check it... mine had nothing.

Which has me curious... @Meaker@Sager for people like me whats extent of whats checked when there arent even drives installed and its full barebone?

Sent from my ZTE A2017U

 

I just ran the wprime 1.55 1024M with 8 threads, time was 205.991
Max clock was 3.6GHz and max voltage was 1.22V, but stayed around 3.2GHz and 1.1V most of the time
Max temp was 69C, and the lowest core temp was 65C

edit: Cinebench R15 CPU was 634cb and max temp was 65C
edit: Reran cinebench with all apps closed and got 704cb, same temp

BIOS 1.05.03 and EC 1.05.02
6820HK, stock, and yeah I'm new at this so any help interpreting results would be great

 

That's expected stock behavior and temps.

 

Stock core and cache
wprime 1024M x8 = 205.991, Max temp 69C
cinebench R15 CPU = 704cb, Max temp 65C

Now using my baseline I did some undervolt testing with throttlestop 8.30:

-125mV core and cache (IA/Ring offset = -0.128V)
wprime 1024M x8 = 201.97, Max temp 60C (60-57-60-56)
cinebench R15 CPU = 703cb, Max temp 56C (56-53-56-53)

-150mV core and cache (IA/Ring offset = -0.154V)
wprime 1024M x8 = 201.494, Max temp = 57C (57-55-57-55)
cinebench R15 CPU = 701cb, Max temp = 55C (54-52-55-52)

-175mV core and cache (IA/Ring offset = -0.180V)
wprime 1024M x8 = 201.479, Max temp = 57C (57-55-56-54)
cinebench R15 CPU = 695cb, Max temp = 54C (54-52-54-51)

-200mV core and cache
immediate crash

I'm going to use -150mV which gives about the same temps as -175mV and -10C over stock

 

Anyone else having weird performance issues while gaming? Im getting a flickering screen (once every 10mins or so), gsync not working, fps drops, ocasional stuttering and general lower performance than expected.

I have the nvidia drivers updated to the last available from my manufacturer (Obsidian-PC), the same for chipset drivers and control center. I also did a clean driver installation with DDU but it didn't change anything.
I also am in Discrete mode.

The only thing it's missing is a BIOS update, I'll probably do that today and see if anything changes.

My unit is a P650RP6-G

 

you probably already did but make sure windows, nvidia control panel and geforce experience are set to performance for power settings.

Limit fps slightly below your screen refresh rate with nvidia inspector or riva tuner. Common issue with gsync. My 75hz screen was running gsync at 85fps with tearing and I had to limit to 74.6 fps to get rid of tearing. Vsync off.


Not sure what to do about screen flickering...

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

Everything is set to high performance.

But that makes no sense. G-Sync should lock the frames by itself. I might be wrong but if your G-Sync display is running at 85FPS then G-Sync is also not active.

 

You are right. But it is on. Gsync is broken. I had nvcp turn on the osd gsync indicator when gsync is activated before capping fps and indeed it was on in overwatch. Same with csgo. From nvidia forums: https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/965224/geforce-drivers/gsync-not-working-100-/1/


What fps are you getting?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

Pretty much always above 60FPS. But I'm getting some drops.

I'll try limiting my FPS, I've seen some reports that, in the actual state of G-Sync, V-Sync is not being automatically turned on, so FPS run wild above screen refresh rates resulting in tearing. Limiting the frames to your screen's refresh rate or using V-Sync should improve results.
My question is, if I'm using V-Sync with G-Sync do I still have the V-Sync penalty? Any input lag, I mean?

 

EDIT: Ignore this! It looks like the windows 10 settings for touchpad has all I really need.

It appears I have no special driver installed for the touchpad. What do people use for this? I was thinking of just going to the Synaptic site and getting their latest stock driver.

 

When I was testing all different variations I found that having both turned on led to vsync taking over and resulting in higher input lag.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

This is pretty anecdotal since I haven't put in the frame rate measuring tools, but I played Witcher 3 with the Ultra settings for a while and then Fallout 4 with it's Ultra settings. Both were at 4K resolution. I could not perceive any lack of smoothness in either game. My temps were a little higher than I saw while benchmarking (maybe 1-2C).

I've been trying to be careful in what I install for drivers beyond the initial configuration. Windows 10 update installed a few things but I don't think it has touched my drivers yet. So I haven't installed "nvidia experience" and I don't think I will until there's a really good reason to do it.

 

I've started to notice some annoying backlight bleed along the upper edge and corners of my 4K screen. I notice it against my blue desktop and the login screen picture.

 

I also have P650RP6 and have no issues. BIOS latest update by @gooface, latest NVDIA WQHL drivers, no geforce exp, Gsync On and Vsync On, CPU -140mv, no GPU oc.

I already did some comprehensive tests but Vsync is not taking over, Gsync working as it should in any FPS. FPS automatically locked to 59 with Vsync On. I have no software or tools to accurately measure input lag, because I would know (and feel) if there is (and I play fps games a lot).

 

Hey guys, does anyone know of any replacement charger for the GSync 1060 model? Looking to possibly get a lighter and smaller one for school (will probably just use power saving modes and integrated graphics when I go to school).

 

You'll probably only need to disconnect the GPU fans. The biggest issue is the cable attached to the LCD that runs over the heat pipes.

On second thought, you'll probably be fine just removing the shroud over the gpu fans rather than removing the entire fan assembly.

 

Running my p650rs for a week. Got no issues so far, laptop is running Dota 2 perfect stable 60 fps, temps around 60C in dota, and near 80C in CRYSIS 3 with 4k resolution .

I suggest better run without AA in 4k instead with maximum graphics with AA in 1080p. Games in 4k look georgeous.

 

Is yours a 1080p display? I have no issues running 4K with the 4K screen and ultra settings for Witcher 3 and Fallout 4.

 

Backlight bleed is something all IPS panels have.. My 4K Samsung TV has some which you can see quite clearly when its dark and its displaying a black picture..

Now I can judge your backlight bleed but that sounds bad.. Do you have a picture or 2 of it.. Try the above, take one in a dark room displaying black or when its booting up..

Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk

 

yes, 1080p. What's Witcher 3 fps at 4k?

 

Where do you have vsync ON? Nvidias control panel?
Do the fps games you play exceed the 60 fps mark by a long shot? For example, in cs go it's not unusual to have 200+ fps. In that game not even gsyng works as the input lag is quite obvious. I would imagine that in something like BF1 it will be hardly noticeable.

Still, on another note, I'm getting the weird flickering screen in some games, and large FPS drops in others (8-10 fps for a second or too, makes no sense).

I've updated the EC and BIOS. Temps look good, I have drivers and software carefully updated to best or recommended versions... Temps look good too

Another little question, do you guys have UEFI enabled or disabled? Which ir prefered?
If I enable UEFI in my BIOS I can't boot anymore and it won't detect my m.2 ssd. Any way of fixing this without formatting?

Thanks!

 

I tried taking pictures with my camera before and well I couldn't get a good picture... Not sure how best to do that...

However I think I have addressed the issue. I notice that it was only bugging me with blue images like my desktop and some of the Win10 login screens. So I decided to try calibrating the screen using the Win10 "eye ball" method. This actually seems to have worked out. Oddly enough I needed a little more blue - that is I had to slide down the red and green. Gamma was also a bit off.

Now I do wish that HID had done the color calibration for me, but @Donald@HIDevolution did reimburse me for he full amount so I really can't complain. To be clear, that is the only glitch in my order and I am otherwise extremely happy with HID. Also, if I want to I believe I can find someone around here to do the color calibration -- possibly for free

You guys probably know all this, but for me the best way to test it was to create a few trivial HTML pages:

Code:

<html>
<head>

<title>Soothing Color</title>
</head>

<body style="background-color:#00003F;">
</body>
</html>

This is for a dark blue. I changed #00003F to #000000 for black (standard) light bleed test and #0000FF for a light blue or #00007F for a blue somewhere in the middle.

They all look fine to me now so I think color calibration has a big impact on the perception of light bleed for me. Either that or my eyes have already adapted to it =P If I come back in a few hours maybe I will notice it again.

EDIT: So this is interesting, and it's very reassuring actually. I do get a glow around the edges of the screen when I first log in, but that seems to go away. Here are two shots of the blue solid panel both right when I noticed the problem and a few minutes later:

 

Oh I know this one! That's from the panel overheating or something similar! My friend and I both will get this horrific backlight bleed everywhere if we left the lid shut but the machine on. After using the machine it slowly fades away. No idea why that's happening but I'm pretty sure that's the cause. It's always been temporary, @Meaker@Sager you may wanna test that if 3 of us get it out of like... 3.

Also lol there are totally easier ways to test that then making an HTML page. You can like google black for instance and just fullscreen an image of it lol.

 

It is just worth mentioning that really high end panels don't have to. My Acer XB271HK has like literally none. A black wallpaper looks totally black. I was extremely impressed since I heard the Asus equivalent tended to have some (The PG27AQ).

 

Nice catch! Yes, I must have had the machine off when this happened. I'll check for it next time.

Oh yeah, I did google for a test page, but it was annoying to have to find the URL each time. That HTML file is dirt simple and let me experiment with a few colors =)

 

According to afterburner I'm getting 30 to 60 (seems to toggle between the two). It seems pretty smooth so I'm not sure whats going on.

I haven't been able to get RTTS to display the frame rate in W3 - this was just from looking at the chart.