*** Official Clevo P650RG, P650RE3, P650RE6/Sager NP8658 and NP8657 Owner's Lounge ***

Do remember these are adjustments on the stock voltage and that stock voltage will vary.

 

What do you mean by that? I understand that every chip is different and has different tolerances, but I thought they all went out with the same stock voltage.

 

I ran across this thread, with solutions, at least for some. Might be worth checking out. Please detail what solution works for you when you come across it

Blurry text Solved
http://www.tenforums.com/general-discussion/7423-blurry-text-5.html#post446625

 

Greetings,

I'm trying to get my P650RG to work with Samsung 950 Pro NVMe SSD under Win7pro.

Good news: It sort of works and when it does it's pretty damn fast as far as I can tell. Mechanical installation is fairly straightforward. There are 2 M.2 slots but they are slightly differently keyed so 950Pro fits into only one of them. For some reasons the SSD does not appear on the BIOS info page under either SATA or NVMe controllers where I expected to see it. But it does appear on the last page in BIOS as a boot menu choice.

Now for the tricky part: Win7 does not have NVMe driver. I found one at http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/minisite/SSD/global/html/support/downloads.html Once I installed it, everything seems to work fine except the computer now hangs on shutdown and/or restart. I tried a lot of different things and it is clearly this driver that causes the issue.

Now I'm trying to get win7 to boot from SSD. First, win7 setup stops with "missing CD/DVD driver" error. A quick search tells me this is because win7 does not have USB3 driver and the standard recommendation is to boot from USB2-only port. Great except that as far as I can see all ports on P650 are USB3 I managed to hack around the issue. When running setup, after the "missing CD/DVD driver" error there is a "browse" button that allows me to manually select the drivers from HDD (it cannot see neither USB nor SSD at that point). I can load both USB and NVMe drivers and the setup continues and is able to see the SSD, format it and copy files. Unfortunately, when it comes to rebooting, it just hangs. After I manually power-cycle it , Windows boot manager fails with "winload.exe is missing or corrupt." I guess it might happen because the NVMe driver is not available at that point and it all sounds like a chicken and egg problem. If anyone has any suggestions how to deal with it, I would appreciate it very much.

If I cannot get it to properly work I might just accept the inevitable ant install win10 (although from what little I've seen of it I didn't like it one bit).

Anyway, once these little issues are resolved it is going to be one mean monster of a machine.

 

So I'm stuck, I cant even install win7. Whenever I try and browse to the usb 3.0 driver I get an error, did you install chipset drivers too or just usb 3.0?

 

Don't remember exactly, when I selected the directory with chipset drivers, I was given a long list of choices and I tried them all until I found the one that worked (I think it was close to the end of the list).
One way of dealing with that would be to prepare bootable USB flash drive with win7 install + USB3 drivers (there are instructions on the net how to do it). Then when you do "browse" you would see them on X: drive.

Next thing I'm going to try, there is a tool to customize win7 install to add drivers to so they get loaded at boot time.

 

-175mV? My computer would crash at just -75mV core while playing dying light. Is skylake that good for undervolting? lol.

 

Ah yes, sorry for leaving you guys hanging.

AAnderson, this method is painful, because 100% will make things look small on a high DPI screen. We're trying to get a good size without the weird pixelly effect.

Anyhow, this is how I did it.

1. Create a .reg file with the following content:

Code:

Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00

[HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Control Panel\Desktop]
"Win8DpiScaling"=dword:00000001
"DpiScalingVer"=dword:00001018
"LogPixels"=dword:00000078

2. Save it somewhere (wherever you like where it won't be interfered)
3. Create a .bat file in the same folder with the following (MAKE SURE TO RENAME THE FILE):

Code:

REG IMPORT "C:\Drive\Documents\Legacy DPI\Windows 8 DPI method.reg"

4. Copy the .bat file to the following location: "C:\ProgramData\Microsoft\Windows\Start Menu\Programs\Startup"
5. Restart! Profit.

 

I hope this helps those having the issue but my issue was with image retention, not blurry text!

 

What exactly is different with the Win 8 method using this hack over the Win 10 default method? I don't seem to have any issues with blurry text but curious to see what the difference is.

 

It's just a new DPI scaling method that was implemented in Windows 10 for no good reason. It even optimises poorly for Microsoft's very in-built programs (like Device Manager). Basically, if you scale up the screen to 125% or above, the text doesn't scale with it, and ends up being blown up (in a pixelated fashion). If I bumped it back down to 100% then this issue does not persist, but for this laptop I find that everything is a little bit too small, so 125% is just right. Nobody has really identified why Microsoft opted for this new method when the older one worked just fine.

 

Thanks, I'll try out your tweak tonight!

 

I actually just experienced the random messed up display twice this morning after never having experienced it all of last week (since I've had it). One time it came up after waking from sleep, the other time from a fresh boot after being shut down. Restarting the laptop fixes it, but it is concerning. I've been on the same 354.09 drivers the whole time too.

I have new Artic Silver 5 thermal paste coming in on Friday. I'm hoping that the thermal paste for my GPU just wasn't applied properly, and that I'll be able to get my GPU load temp down from 79C to the more average 65C that you and others have been reporting. If that doesn't work, I'm probably going to return it, especially after the introduction of the messed up display view this morning.

 

Can any owners of the p650rx with the 4K matte screen comment on its sharpness? I am a little concerned about blurriness that matte screens can cause ruining the 4K experience. If only there were a glossy G-Sync display, I would have ordered this laptop last week

 

Is the P650RG LTE enabled already ?? I seem to have a SIM card port on the right hand side . How would this work ??

 

ok guys, ive seen theres been a slight misconception concerning cpu voltages, as meaker already rightly pointed out, albeit in a very short version

heres the deal: cpus of the same model and type DO NOT sport the same stock voltage! thus, every single cpu starts off with a different voltage at stock clocks. look at this example:

cpu A sports 1.2V at stock clocks and can run stable at UV -100mV, thus 1.1V

cpu B sports 1.1V at stock clocks but can "only" do -50mV stable undervolt, thus running at 1.05V at stock clocks.

notice whats going on here? just judging by the voltage offset from stock, one would say cpu A is the better performer, but looking at the actual stable voltage in the end, its cpu B that takes the winner's trophy!

so: whenever u post undervolt settings, its best to list the actual voltage as well, thatll help things greatly for other users comparing their cpu to yours

have fun tweaking, folks!

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

Thanks for this. I don't see anywhere in Intel XTU where it outright lists the actual voltage. Core Voltage Mode is set to "Adaptive". Do I need to install a different program to see the actual voltage? I'm happy to report it for the sake of completeness.

 

u can use hwinfo for example. but intel xtu works as well! in the lower right corner u can see the vcore voltage. if not, u can add that by clicking on that little blue wrench icon and manually add the monitoring icons that u need

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

Different question: My numpad 2 key is unreliable; sometimes it works, sometimes not. Pressing harder seems to help, but even a hard press can sometimes fail to produce a response. I can see this becoming a problem in games. I assume the manual has instructions for opening the laptop up. Any tips on what I should look for or do after that? Otherwise the keyboard feels and works great!

Also, what is this audio device?


It was selected as the default. When I first tried to play music, I couldn't hear anything. This was confusing since sound effects from Outlook, Skype, and HipChat worked fine as did voice chat. Once I changed my audio player to output to "Speakers" instead of the first item, I was able to hear music through the external speakers as well as my headphones. Is it a device representing the audio for a connected HDMI device?

 

It's your 24" monitor. It either has a speaker on it or the computer thinks it does.
It's useful when you wanna hook up the laptop to the TV with a soud system.

 

I use Windows 10 and other than the 3 times of having my display a bit wonky, everything else works. My benchmark scores are right where they should be.. My temps don't break 70C and I have no real issues..Didn't even pay for upgraded tim or anything! (lucky I guess)

I installed my drivers right off of Sager after hard lining my laptop to my router and installing Win 10 from the thumb drive.

 

You likely got a good paste job and chip, enjoy your beast

 

I hope that display thing is a driver issue and is figured out. If not, we'll all be getting our panels replaced.

 

What display issue are we talking about????

 

Yes. That'd be your HDMI audio device. The reason you could hear Skype and Outlook etc was that Windows allows you to set different devices as your default for normal audio and communication audio. So your HDMI was probably set to default audio device, while the speakers were set to default communication device.

 

I did this...but I don't see any difference?!

Edit: nevermind, I see it now on stuff like device manager and services etc.

 

My 3 yr old Sager just died on me (I think because of a loose screw that I left rattling around inside the laptop). Anyway, is this laptop worth buying? How is the audio (sager had BAD Onkyo audio 3 years ago). Are there any issues with the NP 8657?

Thanks!

 

There is nothing wrong with your GPU temps. Most Benchmarks are not stressing their GPU's which is why they don't heat up as much. i was worried too when mine was much higher. Playing Witcher 3 on almost max stresses the GPU to almost constant 82 C which matches notebook reviews review of the p650sg which reached 83. That has the exact same chassis and the exact same GPU and reached these temps so how can you expect a fall of 20 C with just a CPU generation change?

I was worried too initially hearing everyone but much more satisfied now. GPU runs at constant Boost clock and even a lowering in load to 95% of the GPU bring temps down to 75. It has one of the best cooling solutions ive seen and this is on automatic fan profile not max. You'd regret sending this beast back

Here is the link for the p651SG review so you can compare temps. Same chassis same GPU just a change in CPU with our p650RG versions.

http://www.notebookcheck.net/Schenker-XMG-P505-PRO-Clevo-P651SG-Notebook-Review.132393.0.html

 

Just throwing this out there.

Battery Care and cmd battery report ("powercfg /batteryreport") both show that my actual total capacity is higher than the designed capacity. That is the design capacity is 59200 mWh, which makes sense because the Clevo P650RG is advertised with a 60mWh battery. However, I'm seeing about 62989 mWh, but apparently it was 63000+ mWh when it came out of the box. I have just checked the total capacity and now it has changed to 63018 mWh??

 

Thank you!

Does anyone have advice for me about my flaky keyboard key? It's been a while since I tried to repair a keyboard key, but I'm comfortable opening the system up; I upgraded the memory and drives on my last Sager, but that one was a desktop replacement so it was a bit roomier inside and the manual gave explicit permission while the manual for this one says that I "may" void my warranty by doing so.

 

I got that as well.

DESIGN CAPACITY 59,200 mWh
FULL CHARGE CAPACITY 63,255 mWh

Not going to complain

 

OK at idle: 0.7940 mV and under XTU stress test it hovers between 1.0700 to 1.0800 mV. The recent maximum goes up to 1.1650 mV, though I did not observe that during the stress test, so I'm not sure where that came from.

 

couldve just been like a ms blip of the voltage being set, but id stick with the mostly applied 1.07-1.08V in your case. now uve got a good baseline to work with and compare ur results to other users

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

Did anybody notice that if you press "Fn + 1" key, you can manually toggle your fan to go to 100%?

 

Was getting the 0x8007025d error for a windows 7 clean install, fix: disabled UEFI
I must have created at least 6 USB boot sticks.

 

Guys i will be 970M Robin G user soon. I have heard that windows 7 installation is impossible because there is no more usb 2.0 while windows 7 can use only 2.0 without additional drivers.

One more thing can you OC 6700HQ +200mhz like it was possible with 4720HQ in XTU?

 

Not impossible but I had some difficulty with it. It might cost you a couple hours to a day to install it, no joke. Disable uefi and have the ability to copy/inject drivers to a win7 iso on a usb stick.

 

So i'm done don' tknow how to inject drivers to win7 iso... Preciously i wanted to install m2 drive in my old laptop (unfortunately Msata only) - install wins 7 on that drive and then swap to clevo

 

If a chip can handle that kind of undervolt, I think it means Intel screwed up. It means there's such a large variance in chip quality that they pump up to 200mV more into their stock chips to account for the fact some are so bad they need that much more to run properly.

With Haswells, you would normally see -50 to - 75 as typical undervolt, with the champs getting maybe - 100.

In other words, the variation in chip quality with Haswell was less than with Skylake, it would appear.

Sent from my SM-T705W using Tapatalk

 

Anyone having weird issues with their display? It seems like sometimes when the laptop wakes from sleep, the monitor will just be black and occasionally flicker some static looking stuff. The only way to fix it is if I shut it completely off and on again. Hopefully this is just a windows 10 thing :/

 

Sleep issues tend to be to do with drivers.

It depends how truly stable that under volt is and also if a chip was maybe better than the tester gave it credit for and the stock voltage was set to the higher range.

 

Seems to be quite a few resources online on how to inject USB 3.0 drivers to Win7.
Failing that, get a friend to help you or maybe a bored PC shop owner to let you use their hardware for a short while. Just make sure you have all the required driver installation files on the HD before transferring to your laptop. I had Win7 on an old SSD, with no USB or Wireless drivers haha. In the end, I upgraded to Win10. Win7 drivers seems far and few between.

Have a question for you all. I'm getting electrostatic interference/buzzing through the laptop speakers only when gaming. It happens especially when 3D is being rendered, and is reduced considerably in game menus. The buzzing can't be heard through my headset, although if take off the headset while still connected, can still here the speakers buzzing away...... Anyone else experiencing this issue or have a work around? I've already tried reinstalling sound drivers to no improvement.

Pretty annoyed that a laptop this expensive is having such a basic problem....

 

That sounds really weird... I haven't experienced what you're describing at all though. Are you sure it's the speakers making the sound though? Do you hear any buzzing in-game with sound drivers uninstalled?

 

I have a BenQ XL2420Z monitor that's capable of 144 Hz. Does anyone know why the resolution in the first screenshot only goes up to 60Hz and is different from the second ss? Are there any cons in choosing the second resolution that supports 144 Hz?

 

If it's anything like HDMI it's because one is a "TV resolution" which is capped to 60hz and the 144hz option is regular PC mode. Displayport can operate in HDMI compatible mode or regular DVI mode (PC resolutions).

Just use the PC one and ignore the TV ones.

 

RE: windows 7, I have managed to install Windows 7 onto Samsung 950 Pro as a boot drive. Everything works fine except the computer does not complete reset/shutdown, still trying to sort it out.

In my case I already had a working win7 installation on HDD, so I copied all the required drivers onto it. If you have more than 1 drive (eg. SDD and HDD) I guess you can boot from linux-on-a-stick (any of many flavours available) and use it to partition, format and copy USB3 drivers to the "other" disk. Then you boot from Win7 installation ISO and when you get "missing CD/DVD driver", use "browse" button to find the drivers. You may need to do it several times. For the USB3 there are 2 .inf files in the directory, you need to install controller driver first, then the hub driver.

 

The TV mode is reported by the monitor so it can be used that way and allow it to properly connect to all devices, like having lower JEDEC settings on ram rated for higher speeds, so it can plug and play with anything.

 

An update on Samsung 950 Pro SSD. As I said before, I've got it working as Windows 7 boot drive in P650RG.

I'm still trying to resolve the shudtown issue. I narrowed it down to what appears to be a PCIe conflict between "Samsung NVMe Controller" on root port #9 and "Realtek PCIE CardReader" and/or "Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller" both on PCIe root port #5. If I disable both devices on port #5, computer shuts down and restarts ok, otherwise it hands forever at the very last stage of shutdown (after switching off USB etc). Thankfully, Intel DualBand Wireless-AC 8260 on root port #6 does not cause conflicts.

I'm not sure whose fault is it, either Samsung NVMe controller driver or Clevo/Metabox BIOS. Samsung driver is very new, v.1.00, so everything is possible. On the other hand I am concerned that I'm not seeing details of my NVMe SSD in BIOS where I expect them to be under "Off-board NVMe Controllers".

Is there anyone else who uses Samsung 950 Pro SSD with this machine?
Can you please confirm that it works fine/does not work for you?
Thanks.

 

I have to say, the bios is pretty lackluster. I was going to try and disable turbo to see if I could keep the fan noise down but there's nothing there.

 

Noticed it myself. Try setting to Discrete graphics, not MSHYBRID. Worked for me.


Side note, anyone having issues getting sound to output through external speakers or headphones? I've tried everything I can think of and no luck.