*** Official Clevo P570WM | P570WM3 / Sager NP9570 Owners Lounge ***

But this:
I run at 2133mhz 10-10-10- 100 1t
Looks like you run it at 100. That's why i was asking.

 

So I've got my 980m's in, but I'm having some problems that I'm hoping you guys will be able to help me with. I've installed both cards into my system, but my bios (I've not flashed any bios, I'm using the one that came with my system) reads both vga slots as "empty". Furthermore, I can't seem to get a proper installation of any drivers installed. I've tried the 344.80 drivers with modded inf from laptopvideo2go, but while the drivers install, my cards don't actually seem to be detected. Any insight that you guys have for someone relatively inexperienced in these things? Is it a case of needing a different bios or am I messing up the driver installation?

 

My bios also says empty but I'm running it fine in windows. Recognized and everything. I modded the inf myself though.

 

Oh wait, I got it working, though I'm not quite sure as to why it worked. In my device manager, there was an error with my PCI bus, and letting windows update the driver fixed it. Upon restarting the computer, the 980's were suddenly being read.

By the way, for my own knowledge, when you mod the inf, what exactly are you adding/changing? I'm interested in modding the inf myself for future drivers, but I don't really know what is added/changed.

Also, I'm pretty sure its related to the graphics card, though I'm not 100% as I did also recently get a 2nd hard drive as well and put it in RAID 0, but I seem to get a .net framework error every time I start my laptop now, and it seems to be related to the Hotkey software/drivers. Is anyone else having this problem or have any insight?

 

The fan on my X7200 started malfunctioning this morning. Is the Master VGA fan for the P570WM compatible with the X7200's heatsink?

 

How do I remove the led strip so that I can remove the keyboard so that I can put in some ram? Everytime I try to pull it up, feels like it's going to break or something and I also broke a couple of nails.

 

Is your monitor fully opened as far is it will go and are you lifting from the side edge of the machine?

 

Yes, I got the left half up but the right half just doesn't want to come up lol.

 

Did you get all the screws on that site?

 

Uh oh. Really? I had to unscrew 2 screws from the back? How does that make sense!? Whelp, screw slots are now broken..... . At least it still looks clean :/



*did not mean to double post. thought I pressed edit*

 

Pretty much nothing is just clipped due to the nature of the machine. If you are using that much force on a notebook, stop, step back and double check you are correct.

 

One more thing, I'm having a hard time figuring out how to put the small ribbon connector thing on the keyboard (on the left) back on. I'm having a hard time seeing how to apply that small black comb looking thing to make it hold the ribbon tightly.

Edit: Wow, that took an hour to put back on. Fingers are just way to fat to be handling them small parts lol.

 

Usually you lift the latch, place the cable in so it's sitting correctly and then secure the latch down.

 

@ meaker, I tried the settings that you posted for the 10 timings but was not able to boot. I only changed the ones that showed in your picture thru the bios. no luck , any suggestions for a starting point.

 

Every stick is different so not all can do it. Check to see if any of the timings can do 10 so try 11-11-10 etc.

 

Mine struggle to do 11@2133 so I just leave it at 12@2133. it seems to be happy most at these settings. For the time being.

 

I really was more interested in the experience of successfully changing the timings, but have been more hesitant to play with the numbers haphazardly. I will try some small changes as you suggest meaker.

 

mine works at 11,11,11, 28, 128. 2133 Mhz , but when I move to 10,10 ... , the system boots but after 5 mins I got BSOD on different exceptions.
even on 11,11,11, 28, 128. 2133 Mhz, when I play heavy games I get BSOD sometimes. it seems system gets unstable in clocks more than 1866 Mhz (in my case).
by the way I have 4 x 4gb Samsung M471B5273CH0-YK0.

 

I'm currently running this ram: Ripjaws SO-DIMM - F3-2133C11S-4GRSL - G.SKILL DDR3 SO-DIMM Memory

@ 1866mhz 10-10-10-30 but I'm not sure what to put for the rest of the values. I'm pretty sure the ones I have aren't good. Is there anyway to check what the rest of the ram timings should be or does anyone have an idea what I should be putting for these:

tWR
tRFC
tWTR
tRRD
tRTP
tFAW

The XMP Profile section says unsupported.

 

The worst that can happens is a no-post situation. In that case simply clear the CMOS by taking out the CMOS battery.

IIRC tFAW should be set to 4x tRRD

Also there should be setting for refresh interval (tREFI in XTU I believe). Try to set that as high as XTU or your ram will allow. Going from 8260 to 24780 made my desktop feel slightly more responsive, but just be aware that if you push that too hard you may get random but very subtle memory errors that can become very hard to diagnose. I used to get random lockups when gaming and always blamed it on the GPU overclock, until I had the same thing happen when running my GPUs stock. Dialed back the tREF and no more random freezing.

 

I ran 1900mhz (1866mhz with a base clock tweak) in my 16F3 which did not properly support 2133mhz At 9-9-9-18 IIRC.

 

how are those Ripjaws ram? I heard about them, it's a Chinese brand? I think they're cheaper than Kingston HyperX model. is it a good option to try?

I'm thinking of buying two of these Kingston HyperX Impact , ( Amazon) ,
but I'm not sure if it's worth the price or not. $400 for 2133Mhz, which I already running my rams on this speed. And 32GB of memory which I'll never need (I had 32GB on my late laptop, I never used more than 12GB)

 

I can say the brand has been around for some time, mostly in the desktop market so they are well known.

 

im not sure if u guys are aware but they releasing a 2400mhz cl12 soon at 32gb 4x8gb sticks

I sent kingston email cause can't find the 2400 they told me they will release it soon, just no date available.. donno how soon.

 

You mean these ones that had engineering samples way back in Jan but have still yet to hit retail? Yeah I wouldn't count on those.

Those GSkill Ripjaws sticks are basically rebranded Samsung ICs. Not sure if they're the legendary 1600MHz sticks, but it's a start I guess. FWIW the 8GB kit I had could do 2400 @ 11-11-11-24, but I probably got lucky.

 

actually not those ESample one. in their pdf for SKU, theres a specific SKU for 2x8gb set for 2400 at cl12. its fairly clear they have it just wanna get rid of other ones before selling these ones maybe? is what im thinking.

i'd for sure buy it in a heart beat and try to make it cl11 if possible lol, needed the ram size at 32gb, 2400 for faster cpu ghz.

 

Well the issue with this machine is that 2133mhz is the maximum memory mutliplier so you can't run it faster. It becomes what latencies can it handle at 2133mhz.

 

Are you talking about a laptop that is OCed ram to 2400Mhz with those black 1600 sticks?

Update: working on mod'ing the stock heat sink again to combine the stock heatsink with the H100i water cooler.

 

Yes likely just binned to thin out the one or two ICs that hold the rest back. Mine should do the same speed and latency since they do 1866mhz at 9 and 2133mhz at 10.

 

couple questions:

Is there any retailers for flat copper heat pipe besides Ali-express? (have searched online quite a bit)

What kind of solder is used on flat heat pipes......I know can use any solder, however the stock material melts at a much lower temp than anything I can find (I know because I can see that it melts first when heated.) ??

Thanks

 

It isn't Christmas yet Meaker put down that eggnog.

accidental copy pasta?

 

It's really the only place to get them at a reasonable price. Everywhere else the price is sky high for a single pipe. They are bendable to about 40~45º, for anything more get round ones, bend them at the desired angle and flatten them with a water pipe, or any pipe that is strong enough. I hope you know the various wick structures, I wont buy anything that doesn't state the wick type.

As for putting it back together, I'm still in doubt what should I use. I'm leaning towards Arcitic Silver (not Alumina) Thermal Adhesive, which is not exactly solder, but should be fairly close (the 66% silver should compensate ) and FAR easier to use. To answer your question - it could be leaded solder, since it has like 30ºC lower melting point than the unleaded.

 

@ triturbo, thanks for the info, I didn't realize they made the flat ones from the round ones, that helps. I have only read about the two types of internal media, the liquid and granular types.

I have not found any info on the preference of the two. I was thinking about trying a thermal adhesive that becomes solid after burn in/heating, I think IC diamond does that?

On the other hand the difference in the melting point is more like 50 to 60 degrees C, where the stock solder medium is melting around 125 deg C and the lowest I found available is melting around 184 deg C. after you form and hammer the piece flat, can you reheat it and expand it again and reform and flatten them without damaging the functionality?

 

Hey guys

Just a quick couple of questions for you. I hope you can help me out. I've been thinking about selling my 880m's and buying two 980m's.

Do you figure the 980m will be top of the line for a long time?

What's the best way to sell my old 880m's? Ebay, Craigslist?

Laptop Video Cards :: nVidia GTX 980M 8GB Video Card for Clevo Laptops - R&J Technology, Clevo Barebone Notebook kits, Laptop and desktop system builder Would the 980m at rjtech fit in the p570wm? It's about $200 cheaper than ones on ebay that claim they are for the p570wm.

Thank you and Merry Christmas

 

I think my phone posted it twice, once when I came back to it :/ anyway yes those cards work and "how long is a piece of string?" for how long will they be high end. Usually the start of a generation is a good chance to get a long lasting card like a 680m.

 

Thanks Meaker, I definitely agree with that logic. And from what I have read, the 16nm wont be around until 2016.

Would those rjtech heatsinks work with my p570wm or would I have to use the ones I already have? I think either you or someone else said something about modifying the "pads" to get them to fit?


Any idea what slightly used 880m's would sell for?

Thanks!

 

actually, few months ago it was just ali express, now ebay has it, sold as DIY copper pipes thick at 2-4mm i think

 

It does contains both - liquid for transferring the heat (usually water) and wick to get it back to the heat point - here are the 3 wick types. You really want the Metal Sintered Powder Wick Type Heatpipes

IC Diamond doesn't do that. In reality you can cook your own thermal adhesive with the paste of choice and some adhesive, but I think that Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive is good enough for me.

That's low, I'll have to ask a friend if he knows something.
You risk to crack them. Once flattened, that's pretty much it.

 

I've noticed liquid ultra has about 5c advantage over ic diamond on my gpu's. Food for thought.

 

@triturbo: Thanks again for the link and info very much!. I think your right maybe artic silver adhesive would be a good method to try.

As of now I have hammered all the expanded pipes back to shape, taken apart all the fins for CPU fan 1 that got bent when the pipes expanded under overheating(my mistake), I have repaired the fins and reassembled the heatsink with through holes for the water cooler and moved the north bridge heat sink arm up about half inch in order to drill the two bottom holes out through the aluminum for mounting the cooler. I had to cut the noth bridge arm heatpipe about .5 inches in order to make it fit. It is a sintered pipe, but I did not see any liquid come out of it, however according to your link there is some sort of liquid in it. I may have to replace them, but I will try it out the way it is before ordering new ones.

Once I install it all with cooler I will post some pictures of the actual mod/s
Cheers! Taka

 

yes it does, 5c during medium load, and about 7/8C under heavy load depends how well you paste yours

 

Nice one, johnksss

What was your actual boost clock?

 

No problem at all, glad that I can help. You are among the very few that actually mod their notebooks and that's quite the notebook to start with Needless to say I want to see this project going.

You've lost the transport fluid, it is actually "fluid", since it is in semi vaporized form for easier temperature reaction. In this form you get the thermal conductivity of copper, and you'll notice quite the (negative) difference. Don't bother to use them, just get new ones. I think you have learned your lesson the hard way, but just to put it in here - desoldering heat-pipes - preheat oven at ~200ºC, put the heat-sink you are about to tear apart for 5 to 10 minutes (depends on the solder used), get a screwdriver with a long handle or something that helps you to separate the parts - no expanded heat-pipes and etc.

Waiting for the pics

 

Quick question for anybody. I just got my ssd and final put together my p570wm. I moved my hard drives, 1866 1.35 corsair vengeance ram, and my 780m from my sager p370sm3 to the eurocom p570wm. The p570wm will not boot. Lights come on by nothing on screen. Lights turn off by themselves if on battery power, and turn off after a minute and back on if plugged in. I took out the ram and turned the machine on while exchanging the ram one by one. Still the same.

I haven't tried resetting the cosmos. I can't find the cmos wire. Can anymore upload a pic with their keyboards open so that I can see where the cmos wire is (circle it)?

Right beside the cmos battery, there is a square space that holds a wire with blue tape over the tip and a separate wire that connects into a space over the top of the square space but is not connected to anything else on the other end. I know the wire with the blue tape on the tip is bluetooth, but what is the other wire?

Manuals don't tell me what I need to know and I can't find the diagram for under the keyboard like I could with the p370sm3.


Edit: Rep told me that I had to install a new vbios before moving the video card over to the eurocom machine. Wire that wasn't connected to anything was an extra bluetooth wire I was told.

 

Definitely sounds like a vbios issue there. I'd try to put the 780m in the slave slot, and use your previous card in the master to boot. Then you can flash it from there. Hope it works out man, there's many people on here who know what they're talking about. Just be patient I'm sure someone will be able to help you out.

 

@triturbo, Yeah I am not sure that they are toast, as the one that I cut, I crimped off effectively sealing it and put solder right away. But I won't know until I get it together. I have the heat pipes buried in solder at the moment, so there will definitely be a trial as it is, before replacing the pipes. I have a complete stock replacement one coming too, so I am using the old one here as the beta for this mod, as well as a second hydro cooler that I ordered.

 

Yes that wire is not used.

There is no CMOS wire, just the battery which pops up when you push the latch back. It should then just push back in.

 

once a pipe is cut and vapor leaks pipe is screwed.

 

@ unityole: that's why I said CRIMPED not cut.....