MSI notebook order thread: post your orders here

It's a signal processing app, shapes the audio to fit the sound characteristics of the laptop, so yes theoretically you'd want it.

But, an audio purist wouldn't want it in the sound chain, and it isn't when you use headphones, to keep the audio pristine.

Plus it's another load on the CPU, so if you can do without it you save some resources.

 

this thread is already 11 pages long and the laptop build hasn't even started yet

Speaking of the build, it's gonna start on Monday, this waiting game is painful!

 

If you do go for a repaste, don't forget to ask HID to run some before and after benchmarks for numbers and temps so you can see the improvement from the re-paste - also a good sanity check to pass before shipping - make sure it's all performing well before coming to you

But, you probably all ready got that all hooked up with HID

 

I discussed with Vivian the fact that some people are saying not go to with IC Diamond as it dries off quickly and what is her experience with this. She said she will try with different pastes including the stock paste, IC Diamond, some MX4 something I forgot the name, then keep the one that yields the best temps

I will also login to my system via TeamViewer once they build it to verify everything is in order

 

if use mx 4 be ready to change paste every 1.2 month

 

I have an interesting theory that I thought I would mention sometime soon, this is as good a time as any

Laptop CPU's don't have a "can" over the die, so the edge of the paste when the heatsink compresses against it can ooze over and the edge of the paste can get exposed to air.

Desktop CPU's have a deformable "can" that when compressed, I believe the can "bends" and the edge of the heatsink / CPU exposed to the air might be very small - or even just bent down to the metal edge of the can touching the heatsink - with no paste showing.

I learned this trick a long time ago, leaving an unpasted edge around the CPU can so when you compress the paste/can none of the paste will ooze out and be exposed to air - so it doesn't get a chance to dry out.

I've still got desktop CPU's running on AS5 and NT-H1 after 10+ years running at the same temps

That's why I recommend keeping the Asus / MSI paste that seems to seal itself against the air exposure - setting with a hard rubbery outside skin.

All the enthusiast pastes seem to oxidize and dry out, MX4 is "the worst", ICD I guess could be put on so thick - oozing out under the heatsink - such that it could also dry out.

It's a tough call when used to doing our own desktop CPU paste to "not" re-paste a laptop CPU (bare without a can), but restraint has proven to me it's usually the best move.

Now, if you plan to unlock the BIOS, and push the power way past the original design range of the cooling system, you probably want to get all the advantage you can get by re-pasting, but that means you are going to need to repaste on a regular basis from now on, as the paste oxidizes / dries out, and temps go up.

For any "normal" owner / gamer, I wouldn't re-paste. Undervolt the CPU first, that should be enough. Elevate the rear higher than the front for convection cooling, and if the temps aren't good, return it for another one - it's rare to get a truly bad paste job with MSI / Asus.

 

oh thanks for the warning

what about IC diamond?

 

is it easy to re-paste this BGA laptop? I haven't seen a video

 

It doesn't look like it's tough, everything is exposed, there is likely an art to the order of disassembly, and whether you want to only do the CPU alone, or GPU's too.

Maybe someone that has done a GT73VR re-paste can enlighten us as to the finer points

 

IC Diamond is one of the thickest paste you can buy on the market. This paste has a high resistance to drying out even if the heatsink is not very flush with the die. However it also is the hardest to remove and will leave scratches on the die and heatsink regardless of how you remove it.

As easy as a clevo. Though the other side of RAM needs the bottom half of chassis to be removed and the motherboard flipped.

 

I also bought my MSI GT80S from Hidevolution they have the most friendly staff especially Ted K. and Donald S, highly recommended and that Bitcoin payment option is practically sweet for Bitcoin users.

 

@Phoenix - I am quite curious how you'll feel about it after you receive it - exactly how it feels ex-factory. I was curious if someone who doesn't want to bother with complexity would feel better with something like this.

Since you don't really render videos or do heavy CPU work - you should only have lots of fun either way!

 

One thing I've wanted to try, is to use a ring of some sealant around the edge of a laptop CPU to corral the enthusiast paste in a protected area where air won't reach it.

The sealant would need to solidify into a rubbery form, and not melt or deform under <100c long term temperatures.

IDK if it would be applied on the top of the die, or around the edge after seating, or both.

That might give laptop CPU's great temps with the enthusiast paste, with the long term viability we are used to on desktop CPU's.

 

You can buy a tube of cheap mx4 and use it to make a seal around the die

 

Yeah, MX4 is too porous, once it dried out it would pass through the air / moisture from the real paste, but that's a good one

I'm thinking some specific RTV might work. That stuff harden's nicely, then stays in place - but is resilient to shock and movement. While still being easy to peel and clean off when you want to remove it.

Haven't a specific choice but I've used the "white stuff" for hot spots, and the "clear stuff" for other potting in low heat areas to seal it against the elements.

Oh, well, I am hoping someone that intends to repaste a laptop CPU might get interested and figure it out for the rest of us

 

Hmmm, got me thinking about it a bit more.

Maybe the barrier could simply be 2 applications of the same paste on the top of the die area, leaving an air/space gap between the outer paste ring, and an inner paste area that wouldn't dry out.

Even if the outside ring of paste dried out the inner one would stay "wet".

It's tough to do it well, and still cover enough of the die for thermal contact, leaving that gap between the rings wouldn't touch and so total thermal contact would decrease, but maybe over time the center not drying out would be worth it.

That's also not considering "icing" the edges of the CPU / heatsink mating area to seal the mating area from air. To do that correctly might require engineering a physical gap / access to apply that "icing" seal.

 

One That comes to mind is the liquid tape, but that one is not designed to be applied really thickly.

Could always try.



Or maybe even the horrendous ICD to seal the edges.

 

@Phoenix I would let HID test with Liquid ultra also. Maybe the heatsink have good fit on die. If so... The absolute best choice for you!!

 

Apply electrical tape to both the heatsink and the first surroundings, but on the heatsinks tape apply a thin coat of oil/grease.
Then on the tape around the die, create a wall ieth silicon sealant / glue. And put the heatsink on.
Once it cures remove the tape on the heatsink end. And we have a perfect wall

 

very nice for a single GPU to be honest

 

I'm happy with it . im happy with the temps too . never went over 50c on gpu and 70c on CPU but that was on the physix section of the run .

on games on auto my GPU is 70c and CPU is 65c on 125mz core and 225mem @4.1ghz clock on CPU . i have now set a custom curve and see how it goes . love this keybaord on this machine i have to say .

 

The keyboard, is the main reason behind this $8500 USD! can't wait till I unleash my typing skills on it

What thermal paste are you using for the CPU/GPU

Also, can you do me a favor please and post your BIOS overclocking settings? I am interested to see what voltage and power limits you put

Reason I ask is because this is new to me, on the Clevo P870DM3 we increase the power limits very high as it's safe since the system will only pull what it needs, we put 160000

I wanna know what figures are on your system since it's overclocked to 4.1 GHz

PS: On HIDevolution's site, the max RAM speed they put for this laptop is 2666 MHz but a user here said 2800 MHz works, what do you think

 

Here you only have 1 page of overclocking, increase the PL1/PL2 and increase the ICC of the CPU.

With svet it's almost identical to what you get on a Prema modded clevo (at least, that's what I see on the GT72S)

 

I've seen that video, but I am assuming those are the stock settings. I'd like to see someone's settings who has overclocked his CPU, as in what voltage / power limits they've used

 

@iunlock

 

The keyboard on the 17.3" MSI machines is superb. It's part of the reason I went from Clevos to the GT70, a few years ago, and I've been with MSI ever since.

The GT73's is the best feeling board yet.

 

Hi

Everything is still standard in bios I haven't had time to have a proper play as all the overclock is done by dragon Center and all sliders on full for bench only , I.e cpu max slider is 4.2ghz and GPU 200/350 in game I put it down to 4.1ghz and 125/200 to just to run in .this brings heat in mafia 3 at 75c for cpu also goes for GPU I only use 125 clock and 200 mem on slider . But you can if you want skip dragon Center and use xTU for cpu and afterburner for GPU .

I have not took the panel off yet to repaste so it is stock paste and thus so far I'm actually happy as being only tested 1 game proper for 2 hours Mafia 3 is poorly optimised and brings my main rig to its knees so getting 75c on cpu and 75c with that mid overclock with GPU it's not to shabby and cpu is at 4.1ghz ( not full slider ) and GPU with said 125/200 with custom fan curve and I do have it on a laptop cooling pad with fan off due to it making it get hotter for some reason but being on the Targus cooling pad does improve heat circulation .

My first impressions of the machine is that I'm glad I spent the extra £500 for the 7820 and GTX1080 from the 1070 6RE that I had to return and this 7RF is also up to date with drivers and can't say the same about the 6RE with outdated August video drivers which is strange .

Your going to really enjoy this machine it's so well built and with all the problems I had with the 6RE these machines all be it BGA cpu is amazing

As it does look like in benchmarks that the 7820HK gives more than 1000 points over the 6820HK in firesteike .

In a couple of weeks I will put a review up and won't be bias as I'm the owner .

Not sure about ram mine comes with 2x16gb Kingston and can't see which ram it is as it looks like it's under the keyboard and not on the underside of the panel so upgrading to 64gb will take some work as cpuz is not giving me any clear indications what ram it is only to say it's Kingston with an Msi product number that google can't find .

Ps hope this makes sense as I've still got man flu and feel like poo and now it's 9.15 am in uk on a Sunday and left with 3 screaming kids grrrrr .. head is splitting and using my phone which don't help .

 

this post is making me even more and more excited. I am glad I am part of the MSI Gaming Team now!

 

Still waiting on confirmation on the whitebook model GT83, then I'll jump in too.

 

I would've loved to get it but mechanical keyboard won't work for me as it collects a lot of dusts and fur in my case since I have 9 persian cats, cleaning it every day would be a big headache

also the screen on the GT83 is meh, no 120hz / 5 ms

 

Finally, the order has moved to: Pre-Production (Gathering parts)

 

Looking foward to seeing results was thinking of purchasing this model as well. I love the MSI keyboard but I play a game that has me spamming the 5 key a lot and for whatever reason on every keyboard layout known to man the #5 is directly the middle of R-T but for some reason on these MSI Steel Series it's shifted to the right quite a bit over the T and it feels like quite the reach I couldn't get use too lol.

 

And what thermal paste have you opted for in the test phase?

 

IC Diamond since I cannot opt for the stock paste as they will have to remove the motherboard to upgrade the RAM

 

Icd is fine. Have you asked if they have pressure paper in their tool box? If so they could measure the heatsink fit on die. Thereafter used Liquid ultra if the fit is good. Absolutely the best options for best thermals.

 

how long will LCU last compared to IC Diamond?

 

If the heatsink is of good quality, maybe the whole time you want to have your machine. I have still same old Coolaboratory Liquid metal in my Aw17. Put on early Feb 2014. Same good temp. Everything depends as said on heatsink quality.

 

ok I will tell them to try liquid ultra

what about the GPUs? I am not sure if the MSI laptops have tape surrounding the GPU to protect LCU from spilling onto the motherboard

 

Liquid metal doesn't have same good effect on Gpu. Not same big difference in temp as on processor. Even not the best paste can be used for ok temp on graphics. HID could use own electrical tape if you want Liquid metal there. But I don't know if they will give you fully warranty if they use liquid metal on Gpu.

 

Should still be fine to put LCU on the GPUs, and just apply it carefully. Shouldn't be an issue, I would think. Plus I would think that would get caught in testing if there was an issue.

 

The question is... Will HID offer fully warranty <if> something happens? Not that I say it needs to happen

 

Okay, now that is damned cool as a value-add from HIDevolution. That's where I'm planning to get ... well, whatever the hell I finally decide to order ... and I've been talking with Don there. What a great idea!

You could just let them keep the system on their bench, and get yourself a Surface Pro to use as a remote graphical terminal. It would make repair service really fast. Good luck with that VR gaming, though.

 

did you tell Donald that you are an NBR forum member to get a small discount

also, please tell me that specs that you are ordering and what RAM and what thermal paste you went with most importantly

PS: you are my new HIDevolution/MSI Gaming team friend now

 

He's actually the one who referred me here.

Once I decide what to order, I'll post in the appropriate forum on NBR. My decision isn't made yet. I travel fairly often and am weighing the GT vs. GS series, especially since a little bird tells me there will be a GTX1070 option in the GS soon. I'm a little different from hardcore gamers, in that I'm doing 3D content development. I need a fast GPU and a pretty fast CPU, but not the absolute cutting edge on either. Like you, I program and use command line a lot, and I really appreciated your warning about the Clevo keyboard. Loved the machine otherwise, but bad keyboard == dealbreaker for me.

I wish the GT73VR was just a couple of centimeters smaller in width and depth. It would make a difference in fitting it into a bag that will squeeze under an airline seat. Stupid consideration, I know, but unfortunately a fact of life for me. I *think* I could get the GT73VR under a seat, but I'm not absolutely sure. The GS73VR will go easily -- but at the cost of performance. Existing GTX1060 version of that won't meet my specs anyway, but a GTX1070 just might.

I had a Razer Blade Pro 2016 in my hands for 11 days, and absolutely loved everything about it, until the SSD failed and I had to RMA it. Performance wasn't bleeding edge, but met my requirements easily, and keyboard and screen were wonderful. That machine is still officially on my short list, but I'm nervous about the number of people having newly-released-model glitches. If I do reorder it, I'll get it from HIDevolution for their better support.

The HIDevolution part of that is pretty much a done deal, the MSI part....still uncertain, but likely.

 

LOL....I forgot to mention, I'm watching this thread to get guidance from your thermal paste experience!

 

well my Everki Titan has Checkpoint friendly in its name, I dunno if that will fit in an aeroplane under the seat

here is my little review of it: HIDevolution can get it for you if you wish

This is the one I got:



It is very durable, the handles are sturdy despite the heavy weight of the laptop with the charger, it doesn't feel like the handles are going to break if you hold it from only one of them. I have walked in light rain as well while having the backpack on and the laptop wasn't wet so that's another plus point.

Speaking of storage, you can store your entire room in there (not literally) but you have so many pockets / sections it's super roomy and convenient.

PS: It costs an arm and a leg but hey, it's the best out there and this beast deserves nothing but the best.

 

my build will start today or tomorrow. I will try the 3200MHz RAM first to see if it works, if not, will go for the 2800MHz RAM

We will also try Liquid Ultra if the heatsink makes good contact with the CPU because Mr. @Papusan said once you put liquid metal, you don't need to worry about repasting since it lasts very long

 

Typical carry-on size is 14 x 9 x 22 inches (roughly 36 x 23 x 56 cm), and the Titan spec says 14.96 x 8.27 x 21.26 in (38 x 21 x 54 cm). So it's slightly wider but gives room on the other two dimensions. Since the bag is rated for an 18.4" laptop, I would presume a person could squish the padding a bit to fit the Titan into the airline "test your bag size" fixture, with a 17.3" inside.

Some of the under-seat spaces are really cramped, and on commuter flights it's common to have the airline deny you anything onboard that's bigger than a briefcase. They jetway-check larger carry-ons at the departure point, then you stand in line while they bring it to you as you leave the aircraft. It's more secure than a full check-through, but it typically delays you getting from aircraft to terminal by about 10 minutes.

Airline travel is a curse unless you can afford first class.

BTW, I looked at the Everki bags in a store last weekend, and I totally agree with you that they're of superb quality. My current backpack was bought from the gift shop of Via Rail Canada and has served me very well for 3 years, but it's too small for the GT73.

 

Wow. Since you are an expert on p870dm's, can you do that to my p870km?