*** The Official MSI GT75 Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

you don't wrote money only pay so i offer you some chocolate from switzerland .

 

Hey guys, could really use some help with selecting a docking station. I have an LG 32GK850G-B 32" QHD Gaming Monitor, Steelseries Apex M750 Keyboard and Rival 600 Mouse. I would like to keep all these items set up at my desk at home so I can just plug in my laptop and be ready to go. Sorry if this is a dumb question, I'm just not sure if there are limitations to a docking station when it comes to higher end gaming units. I'm aware I wont be able to charge my laptop from the device, but I would like to be able to keep my monitor, keyboard, and mouse all hooked up. Considering the components I've listed and my machine (in signature), can someone please recommend the best solution (including cables) to do so without loosing any performance quality?

 

i don't have any specific recommendations but it seems like at TB3 docking station would probably be the best solution and take advantage of the speed of TB3

 

how have your temps been looking?
the bios changes were supposed to be made on mine but dragon center was accidentally installed and it seems the bios changes reverted back to stock. However, the undervolt is still there through XTU. HIDevolution sent me instructions to fix it all but my temps seem to be holding their own so I haven't made the changes yet, not sure if I will.

 

I've not got anything from Hidevolution yet and I got my laptop before Phoenix got his.

I've being doing software tweaks like Throttlestop to tame the 6 cores. And the temps have been good about 45c idle and lower 60c when gaming but not been playing large open world games.

 

Last night @Zoltan@HIDevolution helped me apply the BIOS settings (Many thanks for the help and patience) and also uninstalled Dragon Center so it wouldn't override the changes. currently I'm on the default x40 multiplier but with the -0.080v undervolt. we did a cpu stress test in AIDA64 for about 20 min' & ran another test today too and max temp were 82c. with turbo boost fan mode it dropped to 61c. I might do another undervolt to see if it helps and stays stable. so far so good, I just miss the ability to set the fans to 'advance' rather than being on 'auto' in dragon center as I'd like them to kick in a bit even at like 60c.

 

That's interesting, previously I was told you couldn't use a negative CPU Voltage Offset setting or undervolt + the BIOS hack (patch), as it would drop the voltage too far.

Another user (sorry I don't recall your user name) had to actually overvolt +100mV with the BIOS hack to be stable at high OC.

So you believe you have the BIOS patched and are able to have a -80mV Core Voltage Offset / undervolt setting?

Your BIOS patch may not have taken, at least based on first reports I read on before / after BIOS patch sensitivity to under/over volt.

Maybe it's the variability of CPU sensitivity to voltage range that is causing this odd behavior, and the patch is indeed active, with different CPU's experiencing vastly different undervolt sensitivity?

What was your undervolt without the BIOS patch? The same or higher?

 

I suppose dragon center might override the settings when being installed... but I can guarantee the bios settings stick if they are applied after dragon center is already installed and running (not sure if it will revert with dc updates but who knows). I run both the bios settings and dragon center successfully. Even checked back into the bios that it was all still there.

 

You could use this from

https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=255972.0 use the Sky lake one to control the fans

 

Negative, after a few reboots, Dragon Center would reset my BIOS settings particularly the VR Current Limit drops to 115A which is not enough to prevent throttling. I need to up the VR Current Limit to 200A to prevent throttling.

 

The undervolt works just fine, all HIDevolution Gaming Team Members have the unlocked BIOS which properly shows the - sign offset and the undervolt DOES work.

Tested on both my GT73VR Titan Pro and current GT75 Titan

 

I only messed with the voltages and that one sticks. For my cpu nothing else needs adjusting as it is locked so I can't overclock anyway. Guess it could be different for you.

 

VR Current limit has nothing to do with overclocking. It is simply a BIOS setting which allows the CPU to pull more amps when it needs to rather than throttle due to short of VR Current Limit

 

There is literally nothing I can do to make it throttle at stock settings with the 8750H. I tried, trust me, but thank you for clearing up what the setting did ^^
Actually I just checked and it's weird... yours goes back to 115A? My 8750H sits at 128A stock... it's weird that they would put it lower for an i9. Guess that explains why I did not need to mess with it. Either a fail by msi or a way to keep the thermals down since it gets to like 100 degrees on factory paste anyway.

 

my bad I might have forgotten it may have been 128A which is still not enough to keep the clocks stable without throttling for the 8920HK. Just like their stock settings for my previous GT73VR Titan Pro which were at 75A were not enough to keep the 7820HK from throttling, it needed 100A. MSI's BIOS and drivers team are horrible. If only their laptops weren't good, I would never buy anything from that company.

 

I checked this morning and the changes in the BIOS are still there and yes, intel extreme tuning utility shows the core voltage offset -0.080v. it was the same before the BIOS change. according to Phoenix's post on the next page undervolting works together with the BIOS settings.

Interesting that they work together for you but you should keep an eye on it, Phoenix said after several restarts dragon center overrides the settings.

Thank you, I was told to look for this to control the fans, that is very helpful, I will install it & hope the fans will start working at certain temps.

 

Is your 60c while gaming is with turbo mode on or off?

 

i run just for fun prime95 and fire strike ultra to see my temps for cpu and gpu and i don't know how accurate hwinfo is but 236W on the gpu seems a lot and 67W on CPU. both together 306W but the kill a watt says 281W from the wall.

 

The gpu will not sustain such wattage continuously at all and cpu probably neither unless you tweaked it, those are just max values. Also there is no reason to think they would both pull max amount at the same time. And don't forget battery boost which supplies additional juice especially at peak power and the fact that the power supply isn't 100% efficient. Kill a watt accounts for none of these things.

 

No battery boost doing the ec tweaks from falkentyne. Battery is not connected

 

His battery isn't connected. I had to give him a few EC tweaks to prevent NOS throttle from kicking in (EC RAM register C6 status), so his EC thinks the battery is fully charged and plugged in. Yet it is unable to handshake the battery (that's why when you manually set EC RAM register 31 to 09, it then changes from 09 to 0B). When the battery is disconnected, it's a 00. So youre 'forcing' a "battery is fully charged (09) status. But he also has to set the battery "level", at EC RAM register 42, to 100% (hex value=64, 64 hex=100 decimal), because the battery level is also "0%" when its disconnected. And NOS throttles the system if battery is <30%.

And his 306W is nothing, Heliada.

I unplugged my own battey to test, and I managed to get 355W from the wall this way (System total power: 325W). heat/inefficiency from PSU means it draws more from the wall than system is using.
I ran 200W TDP GTX 1070, pulling 200W in Valley benchmark, Prime 95 AVX small FFT (or FMA3, forgot),, pulling 100W, so that's already 300W simultaneously.

Then external keyboard, external mouse, LCD full brightness, system mainboard, DRAM, disk drives is very close to 30W.

My testing is flawless.

 

With Turbo on, I use Throttlestop to undervolt and underclock and it's been fine except in benchmarks. If you mean with DC, I've uninstalled that...

 

Have Dragon center uninstalled too. I mean turbo on fans - there is a botton for it below the power botton and that thing sounds like a leaf blower haha

 

Hey, that's great, you guys got the negative sign to show up in the BIOS

What was the bit to twiddle?

Cool, I guess the settings to the BIOS are different then than the first tests when the undervolt wouldn't work - reportedly BSOD even with small amounts - and no longer need +100mV for higher OC on BIOS tweak?

Can you or someone please share the current patch settings and BIOS settings?

Thank you.

 

Ah I see, no I do not use Turbo fans, I just use Custom fan curve for the Silent Option app

 

Falkentyne posted the changes in the BIOS in this post:
-Set CPU power and performance->CPU VR Settings->Core I/A Domain ->IA AC / DC loadline, = 1
-Set VR Current Limit to 800
-make sure TDC is DISABLED and value is set to 0.

Apparently my TDC was enabled with a high value, he thinks because of dragon center.

I installed Silent Option program from the link you provided and selected the Advance option without touching anything else. so far so good.

 

@Falkentyne @Phoenix so we just found out why my gpu would reach 90 degrees (tho the ambient is like 30 today). Turns out one of the heatsink screws was not screwed in at all. My bf tightened it hoping it would be ok as he did not want to repaste today but the paste underneath is probably totally ****ed up. I'll just have to repaste it myself as he does not want to. Best application method recommendations? I'll be using gelid gc extreme which should be a little thicker paste.
Edit. Convinced bf to repaste. What we found was half dry kilo of goo that was not supposed to exist. He's trying to take it off but it's not coming at all. Sigh. It's a huge mess all over the surroundings.

 

Remove the CPU and GPU if its unified, you'll have to repaste both.
Clean heatsink surfaces with 91% or better alcohol. MSI uses lairdtech thermal stamps which act like putty. Unless you ordered a repaste service.

Spread new paste evenly and completely around the CPU and GPU surfaces.
Try to apply heatsink firmly directly down with even pressure, especially on the CPU. Not as important on GPU. Hold down the heatsink while screwing down screws, especially on CPU. This minimizes chance of core temp differences. Then screw down in X patter (partial turns). Good luck.

 

The bf likes pea/rice grain method. It' being put together atm. Only gpu repaste for now as cpu isn't overheating. He doesn't want to take off the vrm heatsink haha.

 

It's still running hot and loud, repaste did take off about 5 degrees only. But I guess I can live with it as it should be reasonable when it's not 30 degrees in the house anymore, I might undervolt the thing or just sell it and build a pc after all. Who knows, but selling it here will be difficult I think, not much market for these laptops.

 

When using non metal thermal paste I use the X cross method which ensures the max coverage with least amount of air bubbles.

Be smart.... be like Phoenix...

 

I just found out it's probably hotter inside the room than I thought. We checked how hot the bf's pc runs... his poor msi 1060 armor OC runs at up to 80 degrees too lol and that is in a huge nzxt h440 case with 3 huge intake fans cooling it and even bigger exhaust fan trying to get rid of the heat. Though arguably his pc runs so quiet one cannot hear it while my laptop gives me a headache even with 60% fan speed. Must be over 30 degrees in the room for sure >.> I will just go eat some ice cream and give up on gaming for the day, the laptop makes the room even hotter.

 

How much are you willing to sell the laptop girl?

 

I don't know haven't thought of that yet. Would you buy it? Haha. Tbh my bf said the laptop wasn't loud. To me it feels loud but I find a small car passing by extremely loud too so I'm probably very subjective.

 

Yes I buy it, if you make a nice price we can negotiate, but I will need to ask you one favor … need a kiss with lipstick on the bottom cover

Can go first with the payment also...if you not get a good deal and since i can get a laptop like yours in about 2300€, 2100€ is my offer.

 

Hmmm well it's sold new for 3100 and it's actually pretty much new, I would probably rather sell it here and get the money in cash and not need to send it abroad, if you are willing to offer some more here is more info on it. I was thinking more in the range of 2700 excluding shipping, I am also not in a hurry to sell it.
It has a small fan noise: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1q4vK8EfpgK5P88bqdzylsYoecGg69g99
And the nvidia driver still causes bsod at the moment (just happened) when left idle - see attachment for dump readout - I think it is concerning the bug fixed in 397.xx versions "
[Windows 10]: Driver may get removed after the PC has been left idle for an extended period of time. [2110591]" http://uk.download.nvidia.com/Windows/397.64/397.64-win10-win8-win7-notebook-release-notes.pdf but the 397.xx generic drivers do not work on my laptop so have to wait for msi to fix it first.
Other than that it is 100% perfect.
PS. I think it's not worth it sending it abroad as just the shipping with proper insurance will be very expensive. I'd just forget about it.

 

I can buy your model here for about 2600€ new, and can get from a reseller at 2300€...anyways my offer will stand up

 

If you can get it with 1080 so cheap there, I'd get it new. Good luck!

 

Yes, 8750H with 1080 or 8850H with 1070 same price...3000€ i have 1080 and 8850H.

 

Then we have nothing to talk about anymore ^^ Plus I would not be confident sending it so far by myself either way. I will just put it up here for sale if I decide to do so. Still not convinced I wanna sell it, not sure. It seems like a good idea though.

 

So the last 2 days or so I noticed the cpu clock dropped a lot, usually idle or doing something very light and I know it wasn't like this before. I checked Windows power plan and apparently it was set to balanced. Dragon Center must have changed it from 'performance' to 'Balanced' when I uninstalled it. now clocks are back to normal, no drop.

 

The last Windows 10 Update make some funny things...
- Steel Series Engine was not working proper. From time to time it doesn't recognize the Apex M800 or the GT75 Keyboard.
- auto connect with WLAN was not working
- Issues with bad performance for my Raid 0 NVMe As ssd bench under 2500 points
- performance issues with my 1080

After Windows reset (only reset no reinstall) and installation of the drivers everything is working normal.

 

When I recieved my laptop I had problems with the wifi not connecting automatically but the newest update fixed it it seems (I;m on 1803 build 17134.48). didn't personally experience issues with the keyboard but As SSD does report lower than expected score for my SSD too.

 

Upgrade can be whacky so I'd always go with a clean install, but reset works too if usable.

 

Testing some things and what i can say after 2 days is this:
- power with battery or socket there are no issues.
- if i do an reboot there are no issues.
- i run my gt75 without battery (ec tweak by falkentyne) and i switch off my power stripe when i don't need my GT75 or the external Display.
when i switch it on and start my GT75 i have issues with the auto connection.

tonight i won't switch the power stripe off and want to see if my guess is correct.
@Falkentyne did you have any kind of power stripe in use and if yes did you switch it off?

ignore it.. after the last rebbot after installing the new realtek audio driver it takes 35 sec to connect.
next step is the remove of the beta os of my router.. but then i have check everything.

 

For a while there I think there were some buggy issues with the Bigfoot network killer wireless cards that were in these units. We were always able to get them resolved after some tweaking. Haven't seen the issue again since that weird rash of them

 

I just decided to go against my principles and cripple my 1080 because the thermals are not that great on it (stock goo all over + loose heatsink screw - yes that happened to msi and we were shocked when we opened it => over 90 degrees with room temp of 30 - welcome summer). We repasted with gelid gc extreme but the temps are still not that great.
28 degrees room temp => 86 degrees with 3800rpm fan speed even after repaste, with undervolt & +100MHz OC => max 74 degrees at 3400 rpms. I call that a success. Undervolting seems needed in order to have decent noise levels in the summer unless one uses liquid metal like Phoenix.

 

Hi heliada

What settings do you use to tame the GTX 1080?

 

I knocked the temps below 40 degrees with coolerbooster (not sure where the temps start affecting how the curve behaves so just for consistency) then applied +94MHz oc (seemed like a nice number for daily use), then found the dot at 0.9V and flatlined it beyond it which should have gotten me a speed of 1815MHz, but in reality when temps go higher the clocks drop to like 1785... I am happy with it, especially given the drastic reduction in temps.
I realized the 1080 is not power limited at all (happens rarely that it would hit power limit in my laptop) which results in it getting max voltage 99% of the time so in a way it's pushed to the max which leads to high heat. The 1070 in my gt72vr was power limited which resulted in clocks below 1700, sometimes even in the 1500's at 99% load which is I guess why the temps were in check even with just 3 heatpipes.

 

Is this with MSI Afterburner software?