*** The Official MSI GT75 Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

I told him what to do but no one ever cares what i say because i'm poor black, alone and stupid !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

We love j00 br0

What did you tell him to do?

 

You don't understand!! only one person can help me now! and i made a promise!

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...scussions-lounge.806253/page-78#post-10699813

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...scussions-lounge.806253/page-65#post-10686477

 

I'm sure you told me this the first time!!
There were some other things about RW and EC RAM register but not this in the past...

@Falkentyne
Change the register entries to the values. E3 were 91 when i start R&W.
but i set it to 91 to ensure that it will be done.

 

More like this or like that .
but for sure more like this atm

 

If you need this person and it is required to break the promise then this should be no issue or somnething else.

 

I made it work!!!
ALL of them!!!
Don't ask me how exactly, it must've something to do with the sequence, or the order... I don't know, but after I pulled the HDD and found out, after trying again all the possible combinations, that it made no difference, I was ready to give up and put it back together and order the adapter. But I went on a limb and plugged in ONLY the SATA drive in the last slot (marked S). I didn't even screw it down and NOTHING came up in BIOS. Then I thought AHA! So the "S" doesn't mean SATA, and plugged it in the first slot (marked P) and it showed up! Then... again just for kicks, I plugged the two NVMe's in the middle (P) and the last (S) slot and again didn't even bother to screw them down, and pressed the button. THEY ALL WERE THERE!!!! I was so excited by this unexpected success, that I lost one screw from the back lid. Oh well, not the first time.
3TB I have! Yaaay.

 

tztztz^^ you don't check it earlier? but good job

 

I did. And I also tried that exact combination before multiple times with negative result! This time it worked for whatever reason.

 

Congratulations!!

It sounds like the single M.2 SATA alone in one of the combo slots to initialize was the key. Then add the other 2 NVME drives.

You also had pulled the single 2.5" SATA HDD too? Or was that back online when you put in the single M.2 SATA drive in a combo slot?

I wonder if 3 M.2 SATA drives - non-mixed - like @Phoenix 's 3 M.2 NVME drives would work too, or if a single M.2 SATA alone in one slot is needed first as well?

Great detective work, persistence pays off in the end.

 

Yes. The HDD was back in at that moment. I was almost sure that I'll have to restore the system to the HDD in order to access my data on that SATA (data on that SATA...I might sell that to some hiphop artist someday Kanye maybe), but I decided to make one last attempt before I put it back together.

 

So I was wondering about the SSD speeds. I have the Samsung 960 NVMe 512GB which is up to 3,500 MB/s Read & 2100 MB/s Write.

I ran AS SSD program and these are the results. my question is if there are some configurations I need to do to get it closer to the advertised speeds? this is my first SSD so I just want to get the most out of it.

 

I'm wondering about the same thing. I remember my 950PRO in RAID0 performing faster in GT80.
You can try turning on "Write back" cache, but that's insecure. Try at your own risk on very stable machine and/or if you like to live dangerously . I'd NOT turn it on while overclocking/benchmarking. (even though it's a bit less dangerous on single - non-RAID0 drives)
Do you have Samsung NVMe driver installed? Have you tried Samsung Magician software (I THINk that's the name)? I can't make these work because mine are in RAID (hence the samsung software don't recognize them as samsung drives, but as RAID and refuses to run)

 

review from notebookcheck on i9/1080 variant

https://www.notebookcheck.net/MSI-G...-GTX-1080-Full-HD-Laptop-Review.303182.0.html

 

Looks like the write caching was already enabled on this drive.
Yes I have Samsung NVMe drive version 3 but under the drive itself it still says microsoft driver version 10.0.17134.1
I ran the benchmark test on the magician program and it shows better results than AS SSD, so which one am I to believe is accurate?

 

Try several runs with 3DMark Time Spy.

Settings
7820HK 4,5Ghz @1.220V

GTX 1080

Score:
https://www.3dmark.com/spy/3775803

Get an Kill a Watt device. It shows me 281W as max, when i run prime95 and Unigine Heaven.
Heaven crashes after 1-2 min (maybe a little earlier) but i want to see how much the GT needs.

 

Jean can you check pm

Sent from my CPH1723 using Tapatalk

 

There are kinds of two write chaching. Write through and write back. You can enable one of the other in IRST (Intel Rapid Storage Technology) which is most likely running in your system tray.
I recommend reading something about these two modes before you flip the switch. At least the info you'll find in the IRST program.
Generally - write back = more performance
writhe through = more safety

 

@Mr. Fox @Phoenix @Falkentyne and everyone else is welcome
Gents i need your help to understand this.
https://www.3dmark.com/compare/3dm11/12778757/3dm11/12778186/3dm11/12708961

1st Place is my GT75VR 7RF non OC and no use of cooler boost.
2nd Place is my old GT73VR 6RE Titan with GTX 1070 no OC and CPU with Multi @40
3rd Place my GT75VR 7RF with OC on CPU and GPU and cooler boost on.

i can't explain this score but something must be wrong when i oc...

 

I broke XTU.
It won't report anything besides CPU utilization. Also benchmark won't run. Everything else is getting reported in HWiNFO64 no prob..
I managed to get Cinebench up to 1544 and I pushed XTU bench over 2600 (fans on auto) before I broke it.

 

VR Current Limit set to 800 in the Bios?
But current limit throttling would not affect video.

Please use firestrike or firestrike extreme from current 3dmark. 3dmark 2011 is too old.

 

3DM11 is a nice Benchmark for testing if your hardware will thermal throttle or reach power cap.

 

Yes

 

I see leaked spec gtx 1180 on notebookcheck has a dramatic increase
The specification more than 1070 sli
whether the final specification later will not be much different from the leaked version?

Sent from my CPH1723 using Tapatalk

 

I see, I will definitely look into that a little bit more, Thank you!

 

play a little bit around and i have now 19k points with oc of cpu 20k points.
2 possible options.
1st reconnect of the battery? Maybe but i don't think so, i will test it.
2nd after removing dc 2 from my device i don't check the power plans and found the good old high performance plan activated instead of this

i change the power plan to balance and get the "new" power plan settings back.
after checking the battery thing i will use edit.

 

@heliada Could you run XTU and take a print screen on the All Controls under Advanced Tunning?

Curious about what they mean with the partial unlock.

 

Have tried to reset bios?

Sent from my CPH1723 using Tapatalk

 

It was supposed to be partially unlocked but isn't. So nah, multipliers are greyed out.

 

Not even 2 multipliers like in the Haswell HQ series?

They are really milking the cow, what was 2 "free" bins is now separated into 2 products called 8750 and 8850H is what it seems.

Thanks for the reply.

 

@heliada You mean you can overclock it with TS but not with XTU ?

 

Throttlestop has the multipliers enabled but changing them does nothing. I'll have to check in bios later as it has an oc section.

 

I can't reproduce the situtation for to less points in 3DMark 11
i'm sure that the High performance plan was the reason but how to proof when it won't appear again.

My new Fire Strike Points:
Yesterday: https://www.3dmark.com/fs/15527825


Today https://www.3dmark.com/fs/15536923


Fire Strike Extreme (yesterday/today)
https://www.3dmark.com/compare/fs/15528035/fs/15537051

 

@Donald@HIDevolution

We need an expert response, with the i7 8750H is possible to change the multipliers to 40 or 41 on 6 cores?

You told that 8850H is able to do 4.4GHz on 6 cores....and about 8750H?

 

No, the Intel® Core™ i7-8750H is totally locked down. The Intel® Core™ i7-8850H is partially unlocked so that you can theoretically increase your multiplier by 4 ticks, if the particular silicon will accept it and run stable. The Intel® Core™ i9-8950HK is totally unlocked so you can take it as far as the silicone will let you. Just remember all CPUs are not identical...some are better than others.

 

If the particular silicon (i7-8850H) accept it and can run stable 4 bin up. Will it be able to run 4.4GHz all 6 cores full load 24/7 without being limited by any PL1 limits - Aka the long term power limit? Only limit will then be Cooling capacity. Thanks

 

FTFY, Donald

 

testing the next days my max Volt for some Ghz settings and i try my own custom profile with silent option.
atm i run 4.2Ghz with 1.2V.

 

@heliada

How is going the laptop besides that problem about nvidia drivers?

 

Actually it's good. It will not throttle at all no matter what kind of load I put on it. I think I mentioned somewhere it might OC on the cpu: it will not. It's 100% locked but I don't mind. I bought the 6820HK which I wanted to OC to like 3.6/3.8GHz on all 4 cores and now I have 6 cores running at 3.9GHz 24/7. Still a total win-win situation to me.
I still have yet to repaste it but waiting first what msi says about the fan noise I am having (it's like grinding or screeching and it's worst around 1.8-2.5k rpms). Disassembling and putting it together right might help the fans - it's like 3 screws holding them in. Other than that? The performance is impressive, it sounds like a jet/vacuum cleaner and runs all games I throw at it on ultra (so far I just play ac: origins and ffxiv though). I bought a new 27" curved samsung led screen to go with it and am very happy, it's like a loud mini pc now. Perfect to be coupled with my brown switches sharkoon sgk3 and trust titan 2.1 speakers. You see what I did there? I have nearly no need for a laptop anymore, think I grew a lot. I just accepted the gt75 cause I did not have to pay up and no money back was offered. Else I would have built a pc ^^

 

You can try to lubricate the fan (not sure how, you can either try Deoxit D5 in the motor spindle, or you can try shin-etsu G-30 or G-40 silicone lubrication material (the same high quality stuff used to lubricate Sanwa arcade joysticks). You have to remove the fan, remove the sticker, and then remove the metal "plastic" washer carefully with a tiny flathead screwdriver (be careful doing that). Once that is done, you can get your cleaning stuff inside no problem at all.

Then push the fan blades down, put the washer ring back on (This is going to be much harder than taking it apart, you won't damage it but it's so SMALL it's very difficult to actually get it down there), and make sure it's pushed down extremely well, and you're good to go.

You may have vibration at first after doing this. This vibration is annoying, will be most obvious at low RPM, but will eventually subside.

 

I think I will only do this after I get replacement fans from msi - so I can mess stuff up and have a spare If I don't get them then well... I will just make sure the blade is not hitting anything and leave it. Don't wanna risk voiding warranty on small part that made noise right out of the box. But thank you ^^

 

@heliada

Im still with doublts about 8850H, someone reported 4.6GHz in Aorus forum but possible was a result in one core...like i said i not want another cpu like 7700HQ, but there is a lack of opinions here about GT75 with 8850H. My laptop still on the center but still no solution to bd-prochot issue, repaired or not i will buy a GT75....my doublts are if a 8750H with GTX1080 or 8850H with GTX1070...have both models in my country.

 

The best oil to lubricate fans is sewing machine oil, its a 0w5 or even lighter, one drop is enough, lacking that, I use 0w20 full synthetic, or 5w40, depends on what I have on hand, its a small bronze bushing, more or less like an oillite type(as in, its a porous material that wicks oil into the pores that maintains the shaft lubed.

With a fine point tweezer taking the clip is 5 seconds, I lubed my fans some time ago and it did in fact improve the noise profile, still, I'm kinda tempted to swap them for the ADDA's that people use on the MS16L chassis.

 

Thank you for the tip! my bf is a car mechanic and has a garage full of different oils probably also ones special for bearings etc we will see. Else we can always order stuff online, I am not in a hurry as I still have 2 years of warranty etc ^^

If that is the choice I would totally go with 8750H and 1080. I have it home and it's a good little cpu and the gpu is literally just as powerful as the desktop counterpart (also explains why it can get over 80 degrees on stock factory paste: but the nvidia founders editions/reference design actually reaches similar temps or even worse sometimes... so yeah).
If you are in doubt I have been making some gaming videos and will be making more with time: https://www.youtube.com/user/amaella1
I'd say the 8750H in this particular laptop is gonna be sufficient for the next few years as there is no throttling even running cpu+gpu bench at the same time (max possible load).

 

Are they sleeve bearings? Never had to open mine. In such a costly toy I'd suggest it to have ball bearings.

 

I saw some but not all...i will take a look.

 

At least in my GT72 and so far the fans seem to still be all the same, its a plain bearing aka a bronze bushing and a hardened steel pin.

@heliada Any light oil will suffice, the bearing doesn't run as hot as a car engine, and the load is pretty minimal, so either a 0w20 oil that is pretty common today in automotive gas engines, or ATF for automatic gearboxes will do, ATF might be preferable, due to lack of detergents, so it doesn't foam as much as regular engine oil, but its a literal drop, in the 0.05mL range is all it takes, much over 2-3 drops will drip out of the fan.

 

@heliada

You play many hours in a day on AC:Origins? If yes, could you post some pics with stats of hwinfo? If possible the complete window of hwinfo.