*** The Official MSI GT75 Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

I know this. I had backed out all of that before attempting to undervolt w/XTU.

Thank you! This is what I have been stating.

That the offset in the OC tree is not able to be negative and that there has to be some other field dictating the sign is what I have been asserting but hmscott's responses have been as though I'm on crack or something.

Because I was striving to be helpful in addressing hmscott's request to see if undervolting would be ~= to dropping the AC DC loadline values to 1.


Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

Ah, ok let me explain :

undervolting vs dropping AC DC loadline to 1:

at HEAVY LOAD, it will be "approximately" equal to the same thing (-120 mv undervolt).
At idle, the undervolt will have far more of an effect than AC DC loadline=1.
But you risk having an idle BSOD, because the undervolt applies to the ENTIRE VID Range. Meaning if you were supposed to default at 0.750mv at 800 mhz, that now becomes 0.630v at 800 mhz, which COULD be enough to cause instability (an undervolt with a given fixed value with very low voltage has a 'larger' type of effect than an undervolt of a fixed value at high voltages).

IA AC DC is a RESISTANCE value, meaning it applies more when current and amps draw is increased by raising the voltage (by a certain factor of milliOhms) to compensate. Assuming IA AC DC loadline is set to 179 (1.79 milliohms), with no load, voltage isn't raised at all barely, but put a prime95 small FFT FMA3 load on that sucker, you're looking at a 150mv increase in voltage (WHICH WILL NOT BE SHOWN FULLY ACCURATELY AS VID EITHER), but that's another story.

There's nothing technically wrong with hmscott telling people to undervolt. Stock users have no choice. They don't have access to IA AC DC unless they want to donate to Svet to have him unlock menus (Just fyi, svet unlocks EVERYTHING, he does basically the exact same thing you already know how to do with AMIBCP 5.0.2-take hours and hours to manually set EVERY menu to "Supervisor", then writes his own internal flash programming script (he's been doing this for years) and gives basic instructions for users on what options to press in his flasher).

But anyway, since you now know how to use Overclocking Performance Menu, you can do the tests for HMscott without XTU. Just set your voltage to adaptive, change the offset flag to "negative", set your offset, then change IA AC DC loadline to 0 (automatic) or (179); assuming MSI's spahgetti code, 0 and 179 should be the same thing. But again i don't have this laptop. God knows what "Auto" actually is.

Then go back, set IA AC DC to "1", remove your offset completely (set it to 0), and then do another test.

Just make sure CPU Current Limit (ICCMax / VR Current Limit) is set to 800 in your Bios (equals 200 amps if it was set in XTU).

 

So I finally recieved My new laptop - (GT75 with 8850H, 64GB, samsung SSD 512GB + 1TB HD) after waiting the entire day to get home from work.
Let me tell you though, it was not an easy start. after getting to the desktop and looking around, went to settings --> update and security --> windows security and really just clicking on any of the options there to get into them, my cursor started flickering, CPU usage went up to 100% and the fans were so loud. looking at processes I could catch something with Maleware in the name (malware protection or something) that took most of the cpu. after a few restarts it seems to be fine now and I can get into these settings.
Second problem was with my external HDD - kept saying I can't do actions like copy, delete etc as I need admin priviliges. tried taking ownership which worked after a few tries. windows 10 must be very different as I never had this happening on win 7.
3rd, wifi wouldn't auto-connect. whenever I would restart windows, it didn't connect on its own or said it was unable to connect. after forgetting the network & reconnecting it seems to connect but takes a minute or 2. I hope I won't run into more weird issues.

Other than that, the mouse bottons feel a bit stiff for my taste or maybe I'm too used to my old laptop.

 

Was this from HID?

 

Good.

 

Relax, I don't think you are on crack because you can't get something to work others have.

I have seen posts here on NBR, and I provided a link to you between NBR members that stated they had it working.

I suggested you contact Svet as that's where I send people interested in an unlocked BIOS for MSI.

Thank you for doing that, and I think it's still a good comparison to make, to see if the added undervolt at OC gives more than 10c reduction in 100% load temps we've seen previously.

I also suggested you don't need to do this; if it's frustrating you there's no need to defocus your needs for this testing. I appreciate it, but there will be others that don't need to set the undervolt in the BIOS, and they can focus on the comparison instead, which is the point of interest.

It's possible that the patched BIOS is causing the problem, which is why I suggested testing the undervolt via XTU on a reflashed stock BIOS.

Setting the undervolt in the BIOS isn't my recommended way of doing an undervolt, since it involves paying for an unlocked BIOS, and for most people it offers the potential dangers from futzing around in an unlocked BIOS without knowing what they are doing. Which is why most people need to stay away from that method.

99.9999% of everyone I've helped undervolt using XTU or TS in Windows, and that has worked great for everyone for many years.

The new 8th generation CPU's have a great undervolt potential at OC, as you've found as well as others have been reporting, that's the point of interest.

Thank you again for trying to help, I do appreciate it.

 

Yes bought it from them with a clean install.
I don't understand why it takes a few minutes to connect to wifi.
Haven't had the chance to do much really other than installing firewall/av due to these issues & being very late. hopefully I will get more done today.
One thing though - according to device manager under Samsung SSD 960 pro properties, it's driver is from microsoft from 2006. so I need to install the one from samsung, right?

 

If you should ever need tech support or warranty service, please understand that I am not a technician, so it would be better to contact our Tech Support Team by phone at 011+1-562-485-6541 Extension 3, between 4 PM and Midnight GMT, Monday through Friday, by email at [email protected], or by Online Support Ticket at http://www.hidevolution.com/contacts/ (in the department dropdown menu select Zoltan S – Tech Support).

@Zoltan@HIDevolution

Please let me know if they don’t resolve your issues.

 

Thank you Donald, I will see in the next few days if things are the same or not & might contact your support. hopefully @Phoenix will be able to do those tweaks of his too.

 

There is a bug in the latest WLAN Drivers or in Windows even on my laptop if I reboot, it takes a few minutes to connect unless I manually connect then it'd connect instantly.

Let's wait till we get updated drivers which I usually post here: MSI GT75 TITAN Drivers

 

@Phoenix
That explains it although even when I try manually instead of waiting it doesn't always connect. hopefully next drivers will sort it out. If you get the time one of these days I would appreciate doing those tweaks you talked about. meanwhile I'll try to get used to win 10

 

im free now.

Ill PM you

 

I looked at your XTU settings, and one thing stands out to me as a bit too high of a setting, the Processor Cache multiplier.

45x seems way too high, in previous CPU's 33x-34x was enough for performance, and the higher you set the cache multiplier the hotter the CPU ran; I also tried setting the cache multiplier close to the same as the core multiplier at OC and saw no performance improvements and large temp increases.

The default cache 8950HK multiplier in your XTU shows 8x, which is oddly low, so maybe try some runs with that default setting to see if temperatures improve.

If raising the core multipliers results in raising the Processor Cache multiplier automatically to 45x, see if you can drop it down to 35x or back to the default of 8x - and check temps and performance differences.

Also, I thought the 48x boost was for single core, and I see it's set to 2 cores...

Given the increase in cores, and chances to raise thermals by running more cores at higher multipliers, even so the drop off to 43x seems a bit low, maybe try 48x / 47x / 46x / 45x / 45x/ 45x or something like that, try to cut down the peaks and bring up the average multiplier ratio.

FYI, for the 7820HK I run Power Max's at 250w/250w (default 8950HK is showing 200w / 200w), and ICCmax at 100A (default 8950HK is showing 128A) on the 7820HK. IDK what the monitoring is showing you how close to those limit's it is running, and if it will help to raise (or lower) those default settings.

Thank you again for sharing your results.

Note: I also wanted to suggest you check for new versions of XTU as the 8950HK and other CPU's being released should result in new versions being released, which should hopefully improve compatibility and your end results. Also with new Windows 10 releases previously causing issues with 3rd party software there might be new versions of XTU released for compatibility with Windows Updates.

 

Thanks again for helping tweak my laptop for smoother operation. are you finished tweaking? I saw the realtek installation when I got home but teamviewer wasn't running, not sure if that what stopped you. it's not loading right at startup I see, I might need to re-install. the windows 7 start menu look makes it a little easier transition to win 10.
I noticed you didn't uninstall the dragon center - should I keep it?
Many thanks again for all your help

 

New PM sent

 

Yes the samsung NVMe drivers are better, the microsoft one works fine, but samsung is probably best to use if you have a 960 pro.

 

@Tweety78 Can you check now if the wireless connection happens automatically after a reboot? It is working fine here on my end after the latest Windows update released today Build 17134.48

 

Under Device Manager - Samsung still showing driver provider is Microsoft but I assume whats important is the storage controllers - Samsung NVMe is updated to samsung drivers now version 3. Thank you!

 

I powered the laptop this morning and it instantly connected. I did a restart and minutes later it still not connected. I did another restart now and it instantly connected. this this has a mind of its own but I think it's an improvement actually. is this the update we did just before you logged out?

 

Yes indeed, that's the one I left you with and told you to reboot

You see, Windows 1- Redstone 4 (which you have) has just been released so each new update is crucial as it will contain a lot of bug fixes and polishing up of this tragedy of an OS.

I hope you are enjoying the tweaks and snappiness after the Phoenix Tweaks

 

Lets hope the wireless problems will be solved completely soon. I did disk cleanup too. yes thank you I'm listening to some music atm, temps look the same so far too. was hoping to take it to work with me soon but still don't have all my stuff transfered so my beauty will stay here one more day lol this thing is bulkier and heavier than my old laptop. I also created an image after doing the tweaks. I'm loving the loud speakers which is one of the reasons I chose it. wish the touchpad buttons weren't so stiff compared to mine but in time I guess I'll get used to it. Thanks so much again for helping me

 

It was a long read, but I finally caught up with this very helpful thread. I did the trade-in thing with MSI very helpful Michael Zhu and and traded in my GT80 for this brand spanking new GT75 8RG 094 (with just 1GB HDD and 16GB RAM) I immediately put there my 2 Samsung 950 PROs and set it as RAID0. Easy as pie, no drivers loading like I had to do with GT80. Cloned the whole C: with Macrium and made it a boot drive. Much better now. I've got a BIG problem I need your help with though. I've got also 1GB Sandisk x400 m.2 with all my data, music, pics and whathaveyou I was trying to plug into the third SSD m.2 slot (marked S) but that doesn't work. The drive is not recognized by anything. Like it's not there. II know the "S" slot supports only SATA m.2s, but I thought that that what x400 is, or am I mistaken? (it wouldn't be first time)
Oh and btw, MSI tech support is complete useless and total waste of time. They wanted me to RMA this thing because of that.

On an other note, of course I was messing around with the CPU overclocking mainly because it has a big black iron ball tied to its ankle by being underpowered out of the box therefore power throttling under any heavy load. (that's why the temps look so great initially).
I managed to get over 1500 in Cinebench with multis around 50x and quite heavy undervolt offset (I think around -0.60V) but it was running hot and throttling. I don't remember the exact settings because I BSODd shortly afterwards when I tried to push it even higher.
HOWEVER
I ended up UNDERCLOCKING the thing!
I ran prime 95, Unique Heaven (in window) AND Cinebench at the SAME TIME with multis set to 43x, -0.150V offset, iccmax at 128A and lowered the cache multiplier to 33x.
Max temp 97C on core 0 and 2 withem thermal throttling briefly and intermittently. No power throttling.
Cinebench result: 1073!!! Not too shabby considering it had to compete with prime95 for clocks.
I was running it for 45 minutes, then I got bored. Result - stable.
Fans on Auto.
Color me astonished.

Just ran another bench with this settings.
GPU max temp after running 3dmark 11 (22502marks) maxed out at 85C.

I just raised multis to 44x and ran Cinebench. 1345 cb and the temps didn't even get to reach 90C. (88C max on core0, other cores even lower) No throttling of any kind.
I can live with that.
Now I'm running prime95 with this settings. I'll update the post with results in few minutes.
Update: the core0 maxed out at 97C and was thermal throttling just a couple of times for a second or two. core2 96C and rest of them 87-92C.

With no mods of any kind or bios editing I think these results are quite nice and I'm very happy with the performance.

 

The funniest thing is the RAM. I put there my two 16GB Ripjaws and didn't remove the 16GB the laptop came with ('coz I'm NOT taking apart the WHOLE LAPTOP to get to them) and now the RAM seems to be running at TWO DIFFERENT FREQUENCIES AND TIMINGS! I never seen anything like that. Especially in a laptop. Although I don't know that for sure. Different programs say different things.
The funniest thing it that it doesn't seem to have any influence on performance or stability, but of course, YMMV.

 

Anyone has any experience with this? :

 

Can't help with your last screenshot. I only have a GT73 with fully unlocked 7820HK, however the RAM can not run at different timings. this is impossible.
The RAM might report its stock timings or JEDEC specifications, yes, but from what I know about desktops, the laptop will use the timings of the slowest sticks if two types of sticks are installed.
Also it is not recommended that you mismatch RAM in MSI taptops. Depending on the brand, the IMC may accept it and train the RAM properly, but I had very serious issues with POST faiures after CMOS resets, boot loops and then corrupted OS's or complete permanent black screens after flashing system Bioses, when I had 2 sticks of the default MSI 2400 mhz RAM (this is Kingston Valueram with a MSI reprogrammed SPD, but is the same stuff and 100% compatible with Kingston), with two sticks of Hyundai (Hynix?) 2400 mhz RAM. Despite both having the exact same timings, the system would often fail to 'train' the RAM properly at 2400 mhz. 2133 mhz was always perfect when set manually. Also removing one of the two Hynix RAM dimms in the "bottom" of the two top slots would ALWAYS cause the RAM to work at 2400 mhz. It didn't matter which of the two Hynix dimms were inserted in the "top" ram slot. Either one worked. But either one inserted in the bottom slot would cause issues training at 2400 mhz.

When I manned up and bought two Kingston 2x8GB Valueram dimms from Amazon and took out the Hynix: BAM: NO problems. Zero RAM training problems, zero instability, and I was even able to overclock ALL FOUR 4 x 8 GB sticks, all four populated, despite timings of 17-17-17-39 2T, to 15-15-15-35 1T, and tRFC=270 and tREFI=65535.

They can even run 2666 mhz at stupid high worthless timings (17-18-43, 2T), but not worth it; overall speed down, latency WAY up, only write speed is improved.

 

Yeah, I saw you talking about that previously. Took me quite a fe hours to read the whole thread btw
I must be looking at wrong places then. Pretty much all the hw monitors I've got so far report only "Default timings" but here, look what hwinfo shows me:

 

If this is not the actual freq the RAM is running at, I don't know where else to look for it.

 

BTW @Fakentyne, you should have an idea how to make my x400 m.2 SSD work along with my 950pros. If not you, who else?

 

I don't even know what that drive is, so no I don't know how to make it work ;(
Only a MSI engineer would know if it's compatible or not. That's not sarcasm.
If the drive is not even shown in the Bios itself, then there's absolutely nothing you can do.

In the unlocked Bios, there is a section called "offboard SATA controller information" which SHOULD tell you if that drive is actually detected by bios or not. I don't know if it works even if a SATA Drive is detected because i don't have a SATA PCIE Drive. So I can't tell you for sure if it works or not.
You are free to unlock the Bios menus yourself and see if it works.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-clear-cmos-and-prevent-common-issues.812372/

 

Try CPU-Z.

 

Check the System Summary window (click Summary at the top left). RAM is at the bottom right:

 

I know you wrote it but are you sure that you have the x400 in one of the combo slots and not in the only pure NVMe slot?
From the MSI Product page:
SSD
1x M.2 SSD slot (NVMe PCIe Gen3)
2x M.2 SSD Combo (NVMe PCIe Gen3 / SATA )
HDD
1x 2.5" SATA HDD

My thoughts are that they use the cooler for the ssd's but did not change the S to an N or what else.

 

Can't seem to edit my post and upload anything, so:

In the Gt75, this setting seems to be completely in a very strange position. Open the Bios file you dumped from your main bios yourself with AMIBCP 5.0.2 (DO NOT USE 5.0.1!!) and you'll see it.
As I already said (and please dont ask me how, read the thread), you can dump your own bios with FPTW64 -d mybiosbackup.bin -bios
using the fptw64 version mentioned at the very end of that thread (assuming Paloesco didn't edit the first post to link the GT75 compatible version; the old versions will give an error).

All FPTW64 versions are available in win-raid forums under Intel management engine tools section.

 

CPU-Z shows me even less info than HWiNFO64.

 

Check the Memory tab in CPU-Z:

 

Guys question, can anyone put a 1070 ti card in a laptop? Since i don't see any!

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

 

If you have one as an mxm 3.0 card maybe yes but as far as I know there is no 1070ti notebook version.

 

And the SPD tab especially!

 

The Memory tab shows the actual current frequency and timings, the SPD tab shows the preprogrammed values.

 

Yes, but you get the details on SPD when searching for compatible DRAMs.

 

So I played around with the drives and I've found an interesting and quite a disappointing thing. The Sandisk x400 m.2 SSD will work by itself in any of the three slots. It will also work with ONE m.2 NVMe sticks, but not both. I've confirmed that all three m.2 SSD slots in the laptop are working and also that all three m.2 sticks are working just fine. Just not all three together.
I've tried EVERY combination of slots (there aren't that many) with always the same result. Either I'll have 1TB NVMe RAID0, or 512GB NVMe drive + 1GB SATA SSD.
Anyone has any insight into this? What am I doing wrong?

 

yes I heard this from HIDevolution while they were testing my laptop trying to get 2 m.2 SATA drives + a 960 Pro NVMe drive to work all together but the BIOS will not see them all for some reason. Then I told them to swap all 3 slots to 960 Pros and that worked which is what I'm using right now, 3x 960 PRO in RAID 0

 

That should be investigate by msi. I can't imagine that the ports should be deactivated if you use this kind of combo.

3xNVMe... I need a quite corner for some crying like a child moments...

 

That's very... how to put it and be civil... unfortunate flaw. They had no problem working together in my "old" GT80. Now the only option for me is to buy an enclosure and use it as an external drive? This is BS.
I'm quite unhappy with some of the decision MSI has made with this laptop. Namely this issue and then the location of RAM module. That's absolutely unacceptable. If I knew it before, I'd be hesitating to do the upgrade.

 

I understand *you that is* and I don't understand how MSI Engineers work or think . We can make a big deal out of it and be angry or just find a solution, even if it will cost you some money, sell the old ones and get 3x NVMe SSDs low capacity even to keep the cost down and enjoy blistering performance with 3x NVMe in RAID 0

Be smart...be like Phoenix...

 

hmmm,
my battery was drained because i don't connect psu
now it is charging and i can't play because i have not enough power for my gtx 1080. only 25-30 fps in destiny 2, far cry 5 and AC O...

 

Have you looked how much these 512GB 950PROs go for nowadays? I found one on Amazon for over $500! They've became a collector item when I didn't pay attention or wth is going on?
To be perfectly clear I already have 2 of them that I purchased with my GT80. Selling them and getting 3 960PROs would be... financially unwise.
And they're working perfectly fine right now in my new GT75 in RAID0. I just need to access that 1TG SATA SSD somehow and at least copy all my data from there to the internal 1TB HDD (which I intend to upgrade later on). The only way I can do it AFAIK is to get an enclosure and make it external. THEN, if there is no solution to this fiasco, I'll think about selling it (for fraction of what I've paid for it I imagine).
It's a pity. That x400 is really fast and overall awesome SSD.

 

JeanLegi right now >>>

 

You like it? I mean the MSI feature. Same as NOS Gas

 

LISTEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

DISCONNECT THE BATTERY.
Run RW everything after rebooting PC
Set EC RAM register 31 to "09" manually
set EC RAM register 42 to "64" manually.
Set EC RAM register E3 to "91" manually.

NOS will be enabled without battery connected, throttle will be removed.