*** The Official MSI GT75 Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

It's too bad MSI didn't try replacing the metal hardware - heatpipes, heatplates, heat exchangers, for a new assembly, as it almost sounds like a bad cooling component or at least warped or mis-fitting.

I'd ask them to try that, it's really a waste of time doing it yourself, plus if there are faulty cooling components, you'll have just as much trouble dropping the thermals as MSI.

There is no delidding of BGA CPU's like the GT75 have, they are already bare dies, and besides that they are soldered to the motherboard, so you'd have trouble delidding a soldered CPU without doing motherboard component damage.

 

I want change timming on my ram
From 17-17-17-39 to 16-16-19-39
This is safe or no?

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They will be packing it up tomorrow, I'll see if I can get them to do it before they send it. They are really nice, accepting requests to run more tests etc and keeping it under warranty even though I opened it up myself and did the paste and pad.

 

I'm sure they are frustrated at not being able to replicate or fix the problem, so more ideas at things to try should be welcome to them.

 

Yup. They wanted to wipe and try and fix the issue again to see if it is software but I told them not to wipe. The guy at MSI QLD - Wayne said to send it back whenever if the problem replicates and they will try replacing more parts.

 

Just ask them -very- politely and nicely if they can send you an extra spare CPU heatsink.
That should be sufficient. There doesn't have to be any thermal pads on the spare heatsink since you will buy your own.

For thermal pads, try arctic 0.5mm 145x145mm pads. I found those worked best for me.
For thermal paste, please read my posts in the GT73 thread. I made direct recommendations.

Repasting yourself is easy. Send me a PM. I'll link some videos. I'm in bed so not doing that now.

 

I may have to purchase that. They sent me a price list, Prices in AUD - Heatsink at 60, Fans at 50, Backplate 30, Shipping 15.

I've thought about Gelid since the Grizzly didn't work so well and I can only get some Alphacool Einsenhastnajshdvsjhsvdhd. What are your thoughts? Not sure if I can get the Arctic.



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I would prefer Noctua NT-H1 if you can get that there. Pretty sure in your country it's available.
Also preferred is Phobya Nanogrease Extreme.
Then IC7 diamond afterwards.
I have not seen Ceramique 2's performance on a modern laptop, however Ceramique 2 does not need to be repasted anywhere near as often as other pastes as it is far more resistant to high heat than other pastes, but the question is, would the weaker thermal conductivity be enough for one of these laptops? (this paste came out when we were still rocking dual cores and quads without hyperthreading).

You can try coolermaster mastergel nano too.

Arctic pads are available anywhere. You can even use ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ARCTIC-The...301688&hash=item2a9b9c318c:g:vWYAAOSwmphaTbre

I find it hard to believe you can't find these pads with a little work.

 

Hey guys, for some reason it seems that one of the power pins on my laptop is misaligned and the charger cable can't plug fully into it. Didn't have this issue when I first received the laptop.

Does this warrant an RMA? Just got the laptop few months back and surprised this issue suddenly popped up. I don't move my laptop as it's a desktop replacement so I'm also curious as to why this happened.

It can still receive a charge now but I'm worried since its not fully plugged in that this could result in issues in the future. Should I contact HIDEvolution?

 

Hello gents,

maybe some one have some information.
did anyone know where to find a killer wireless 1550? within europe or germany?
Maybe a store who will sell and ship it to germany?

Thanks!

 

I want to change the RAM that comes pre-installed with the GT75VR and change them with a G.Skill Ripjaws that I scavenged from my dead GT80S, but where can I find those pre-installed ram? The ram slots located beneath the laptop were all empty.

 

Under the keyboard, you need to tear the whole laptop apart to reach those two slots.

 

Is there a software that control and disable those pre-installed ram sticks? Those are just generic ram sticks and are not compatible with a G.Skill Ripjaws 2666

 

Sure they are compatible, they might not OC as high as your others, but they will all work together.

And you cant disable RAM, you need to take it out.

Well, I think if you delete all the SPD data they wont work, but thats a pretty drastic measure.

 

I just finished clean installation of Windows 10 Home, and I get an error with the audio driver.

Realtek HD Audio Driver Failure !! [Error Code : -0001]

I downloaded it from MSI official driver page, twice but same error.

 

You can disable RAM in the unlocked bios (System agent ->Memory configuration menu-->Enable both dimms-->Enable dimm channel 1->Enable dimm channel 2), but you don't want to do this.
Just read the disassembly guide, take out the old RAM and buy new RAM. Don't mix and match RAM in these BGAbooks.

http://msi-ftp.de:8080/main.html
->SYSTEME->GT73 (disassembly and reassembly).

 

I'd like to know how you can contact the engineers who's working on your device. It's the second time I RMA my GT75 and this time no updates, nothing from them. I'm afraid that the lappy will come back to me still broken just because I can't communicate with them and tell them what exactly my problem is.

 

Have you tried contacting MSI themselves in Germany? The one I talked to in Australia seemed prepared to sell the parts individually and ship them for AUD$15..

Hey Jack, unless you're in Australia I don't think this information will help. I did not talk to any of the engineers but I did talk to the rep - Wayne [email protected]

I also know 5 languages and Chinese is one of them, i specifically wrote my instructions in Chinese and English so that they would understand. However, Wayne speaks English very well but he is Chinese.

Hope this helps.

 

I will give Noctua NT-H1 a try and the Arctic Pads and see how it goes. I'll be posting benchmarks against the standard stock thermal temperatures again to do a comparison.

 

If some one answer your question mate, sorry i don't saw any answer so long.
It can be fopr the 10Gbps adapter from Aquantia. but to ensure this i need to open it.
let me do this quickly and then i will ad some pictures.

@ZKST i will try it but i don't think they will do it.

the heatsink is for the Aquantia c
hip which is located under the heatsinks of the gpu.
i think this can be one reason as well why the GT75VR is a little more thick than the GT73VR and not as i thought only regarding the new mechanical keyboard.

nice and small


and this very long heatsink...

 

Let me know what you need, I'll see how much it is to ship to Germany. PM me your city.

And if you are alright with shipping fees, we can discuss further in PM.

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Hey mr @HaloGod2012 thx for the answer, I wanna ask some more about the RAM
can you give some screenshoot from CPU-Z of your mixed brand RAM running on dual channel?

something from the memory tab like this:


and from SPD tab for each RAM Slot like this:


To see which slot you have populated with RAM

I asked because I read somewhere (forgot the link) you have to put the 2nd RAM on the backside (same as the 1st) to run on dual channel, where some other link (also forgot) say that it doesn't matter
hope this also help other!
Thx in advance @HaloGod2012

 

Has anyone seen this??? @Phoenix @Falkentyne @hmscott

http://tieba.baidu.com/p/5248227582?see_lz=1&pn=2

There is an extra slot for extended graphics card?!?

What does that actually mean?? SLI? A workstation switchable quadro card slot? and where does it go? Doesn't seem like there's alot of space...

 

That's just the slave SLI video card port used in the 1070 SLI configurations. Nothing more. All of the GT73VR's and GT75VR's have that because the exact same motherboard is used in the SLI versions. they just have a different GPU VRAM heatsink and master heatsink, to accomodate the second video card's GPU heatsink.

 

https://www.msi.com/Laptop/GT75VR-7RE-Titan-SLI.html

 

My PC arrived back with the Motherboard, Heatsinks and Fans replaced on the CPU side. AIDA64 Stress test showed temps at 99 (MAX SPEED FAN). Idle at 70. Problem not solved. (Back story, my laptop was sent to RMA because the Grizzly Kryonaut was not working properly and the stock temps I had previously was much better - Temps at 99deg(Kryonaut) and 80deg(Stock) during Premiere Pro Export.)

So the funniest thing and weirdest thing happened today... I decided, what the heck, since I'm waiting on the delivery of my Noctua NT-H1 and Arctic Pads, I'll just try to repaste with Kryonaut again and see how it goes, I did it without curing as well.

Booted up.. Min Temps at Idling at 48deg...?!?!? WTF?! Ran Aida64 Stress Test again. Max Temps of 82deg?! Fans not even spinning up?! I can't even hear the fans...

So... my theory is the heatsink had very good contact with the stock thermal stamp but when the kryonaut was used, it created a very bad contact. After replacing the heatsink, the plate had a very **** thermal stamp and but very good contact, used kryonaut and it's a match made in heaven!


----EDIT----
I am even running @Phoenix GT73VR Settings for XTU OC to 4.2ghz and it's not throttling, fans not spinning loudly, sounds like its only 30% speed and temps below 90!

 

Use the fans at 100% then report the temps. These are excellent results.

Keep in mind that Kryonaut might wind up pumping out. If it doesn't, then mission accomplished. If it does, you should use a more thicker paste like NT-H1 or Phobya Nanogrease Extreme.

Be sure to check the temps in a week.

 

Here you go -

COOLERBOOST Activated. My god. The results.

 

Excellent. Test your temps again in about 1 week and report back. Make sure the Kryonaut hasn't degraded. Phoenix had problems with Kryonaut getting worse over time. I got annoyed with it also so I bought some Noctua NT-H1 but haven't even opened it since now I have LM on everything except my desktop CPU (since that's a soldered IHS on it).

 

So here are my results.
i change from IC Diamond to cool laboratory just to do some practice after 3 years without working with it.
the first two picture are with IC Diamond and i do the same test afterwards with cool laboratory.
Core #2 is still up to over 90° tomorrow Grizzly conductonaut will arrive.
i decide to use 0.5mm thermal pad from arctic to save the area around the die.
try to get a little heat nothing special on the cpu. i will do this with the gpu too because it reaches still 79/80° with IC Diamond which is nearby 5° less as Grizzly Kryonaut and before with the standard paste it was nearby 90°.

Temps with IC Diamond


Temps with LM



It is shorter as this first try and i press it that it get thinner as it is.

 

YOU ARE CURRENT LIMIT THROTTLING.
GO INTO BIOS, GO TO OC, SET CPU CURRENT LIMIT (VR Current Limit) = VALUE 800.

(ICCMAX=800), which is 200 amps, because the bios value is divided by 4.

Your temps are otherwise fine, but I want to see your non AVX, non FMA3 prime to be sure. Avoid FMA3 testing in prime. (Try disabling it with CPUSupportsFMA3=0 in the Local.TXT file). FMA3 is worse than AVX. Can you disable FMA3 in the local.txt file in prime95 and run AVX only and report the temps?

To get core 3 closer (it should in PERFECT conditions be no hotter than 5C than core 2 with AVX or FMA3, but that would mean you would need a perfectly flat lapped heatsink (Like I did with mine in the GT73VR thread) and then if you disable AVX And FMA3, you would have 1C core temp differences.

In fact if you're bored, try this

CPUSupportsAVX=0
CPUSupportsFMA3=0

run prime small FFT (not blend).
report temps back.
Perfect heatsink will have 1C core temp differences.

also please make your prime mini-windows a little larger. hard to see what test is running.
(to do this, make the main prime window about 90% of the screen size, start the workers, press "TILE" (Not Cascade), then EXIT prime and start prime again to re-align the text).

Also please make your HWinfo window larger so I can see the CPU package power (Watts)!

I'm' running a few tests for you right now (will post screenshots later) to show you what ideal temps are for FMA3 enabled and FMA3/AVX disabled at 3.9 ghz. (with FMA3 you can not ever get all cores the same temp; it seems each core has a different VID used with AVX instructions that does not match each other).

 

Ok.

These are the temps you would get with a perfect heatsink.

1) 3.9 ghz FMA3 small FFT. vcore =1.175v, IA AC DC loadline 0.05 mOhms. Because I'm lazy and didn't change my voltage down from my 4.5 ghz settings because I used Throttlestop to reduce the multiplier to x39. I could use 1.05v here if I wanted.


3.9 ghz AVX and FMA3 disabled, vcore=1.175v, AC DC=0.05 mOhms



4500 mhz avx disabled, vcore=1.175v, AC DC=0.05 mOhms


4700 mhz avx disabled (Vcore=1.270v, IA AC DC loadline=0.05 mOhms (5)


Note: DO NOT USE OVERRIDE VOLTAGES WITH THE DEFAULT IA AC DC AUTO LOADLINE SETTING MSI GIVES YOU, unless you REDUCE the override vcore far lower than what you 'think' would usually be stable--IT WILL CAUSE VID RISE OF OVER 100MV and *NOT* be reported accurately either in HWinfo or Throttlestop! (you may see a "random" idle VID showing up really high randomly like 120mv over your Bios vcore override setting, while the normal idle vid will be much lower I found out that, the "spike" is actually going to be your full load VID; the VID shown at full load will be reported much lower than real VID).

 

Updates about my GT75VR after a 2nd RMA: MSI replaced the RAMs. Funny, I thought it was sealed.

 

Sealed? There are 4 ram slots. 2 behind the mobo. 2 Infront.

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Hello guys, Im going to buy GT73VR, 1080, 7820hk, 256gb, 16. Plz, can you advice me what things should I look at ? are there some specific problems for this model ? What about temps and throttling ? thank you guys in advance.

 

Why are you trying to buy a GT73VR when the GT75VR is better in absolutely every way?
the GT73VR also does not have per-key RGB keyboard. The GT75VR does.
there is no throttling problem but there is an "AC" power limit of 230W, enforced by the EC, if using a GTX 1070; exceeding this will cause the CPU to be TDP limited to 45W or 25W. Normal users should not have to worry about this. There is a "way" around that (For modders who use TDP modded GTX 1070's) which you should do your own research on, which has been discussed in the GT73VR thread and mentioned here.

There usually is no temperature problems, but some heatsinks may be slightly warped; there is a discussion in the GT73 thread on that.

Other than that, the only 'specific' problem is:
1) it's a jokebook. BGA soldered CPU, not LGA. meaning worse silicon quality than LGA chips=runs hotter and less overclocking headroom, and if you get a bad chip sample, good luck trying to swap out the motherboard.

2) if you're trying to buy futureproof, buying a 4 core CPU is not exactly the best thing to do with 6 core CPU's (LGA format 8700K, in something like Clevo P870 TM series) already out, and BGA versions of the coffee lake 6 core cpu's coming out very soon.

However if you absolutely cannot afford a heavy Clevo DTR and really do want a GT75VR, the MSI is probably the best of the BGAbooks. The monitor is pure nice to use and the keyboard is a work of art.

 

Oh sorry, I ment GT75VR )). If I get 1080 won't I get AC problems ? what is the difference between BGA and LGA ? does the GT75 has LGA ?
I just want a good laptop which doesn't have heat problems, not even going to overlock it but want to have some performance space. Will 7820 be enough for this ? Unfortunatelly I don't have clevo laptops in my country. And it is provided only with full hd displays.

 

Yes get the gt75vr.

 

The main issues for me are CPU High temps and noise.

 

Hello guys. I have a really big problem

I bought my gt75vr 7rf-215 from newegg. And it has only single 16 gb ram. My problem is low gpu usage in games. There is no problem on benchmark my gpu working on full power 99%

But when i play games my gpu usage drop %60-70 i try everything and i think problem is ram.

Now i want to upgrade my ram but i don’t know where is my ram. is it under mobo ? Or not and i do not know my ram model. Help me please where is single 16 ram stick in gt75vr i hope it is not under the motherboard.

 

Not likely the RAM. Did you try messing changing settings in the Nvidia Control Panel, like from Optimal to High Performance or Adaptive?

 

Do you have G-sync / V-sync enabled?

That limits FPS to Refresh, 60hz or 120hz, and depending on the game or settings it might just be 60%-70% load...

Try disabling G-sync / V-sync, and let full FPS fly

 

So temps are not very satisfactory after 1week, I left it there and went for holidays and came back for testing...




Going to use the Noctua with the stock pads today and see how it goes.

 

4.5ghz on a 7820HK is about the highest I've seen without unlocking power limits, and if you've done that you are operating outside the design range for the cooling.

You've got some heatsink / CPU mating skewage that's giving you a wide core temperature differential that's making it far worse than it needs to be.

I'd pay careful attention to making sure you have pushed down the heatplate firmly, and wiggle it to make sure you have good surface to surface mating of the CPU / heatplate, before screwing it down.

Push down in the middle of where the CPU / heatplate meet and slowly turn each screw a little bit, like half a turn after getting the initial bite where the screw has a grip - don't turn one screw too far or it will push down on it's side and push up on the opposite side. With your fingers / thumb pushing down while turning the screws, you should be able to feel the tilt if you turn the screw too far, back off and turn the opposite one to compensate.

You need to apply pressure greater than the screws - otherwise you can't screw down tight, a screw ridge will catch and it won't be down all the way. Holding down the heatsink assembly with firm pressure then start screwing in the screws. Screw draw pressure alone won't be enough.

In manufacturing they should be using a fixture / jig that applies pressure to hold down the heatsink evenly against the CPU / GPU to take the stress off the assembly person - they may do hundreds a day - and a fixture that applies pressure evenly and reliably lets you focus on screwing it down evenly to get consistent results.

The heatsink surface should be ok out of the factory, most of the problem it seems is in the reassembly - the small surface area and ease of tilting the mating surface easily with too much screw pressure too soon on one point seems to be the problem.

The low core temperatures seem fine @ 4.5ghz; I didn't look at what you are using for paste, but I don't think the paste is the problem. Changing paste now might not help and isn't necessary. Noctua NT-H1 is good stuff, but I'd try not to change too many variables while focusing on getting your re-paste / re-assembly technique perfected.

Good luck

 

The temps above were the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut after 1 week of paste.

The new temps below is with the Noctua:

 

You still have too much core differential temps.

What software are you using to check the core temp differential? Prime95 / AIDA64 / Cinebench or? Make sure AVX / FM3 are disabled in each test or they will skew results.

Did you hold down the cooling assembly while screwing it in to take the pressure off the screw threads? Do you think you have even pressure and the heatplate didn't tilt against the CPU? Is it tightened down all the way on all screws - none are loose, and hand pressure against the heatplate down onto the CPU doesn't allow turning the screws further?

If it's not tightened down completely, when you pick up your laptop and it flexes it can move the mating surface of the CPU / heatplate, so make sure you push down on the heatsink and take the stress off the screw threads as you tighten it completely. Any flexing that causes the mating surface to lift / move and vary the pressure will cause your temps to rise and the differential to increase.

 

Wait,
What were you running originally?
4.2 ghz?
The kryonaut has probably degraded. I am looking at your TDP. You are only pulling 77 watts.
Can you please post another screenshot with your CPU VID shown, like you did in this one?
I'd like to see what your VID is. You don't have it showing at all.



At 4.5. ghz, and 77 watts, you should not be reaching 100C. You have 12C core temp difference. Sounds like the Kryonaut degraded. I had the same problem with Kryonaut, although not as severe.

 

Anyone notice the sound being louder on the left side of the laptop?
I've uninstalled and reinstalled realtek drivers and tried just realtek without the niahmic software. Even when I change the balance to be all the way right, some sound still comes out of the left as well.
Probably my only complaint about this laptop, hoping someone has figured this out already.

 

Go to nVIDIA Control Panel and change the power management from Optimal to Adaptive then apply then reboot

 

Just confirmed from

That the GT75VR *DOES* use the same hybrid power as the GT73VR.
EC RAM registers 46 and 47 are the battery drain rate.