*** The Official MSI GT75 Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

Click the button that j00 think would reveal the correct EC firmware screenshot

Spoiler: EC Screenshot 1

Spoiler: EC Screenshot 2

 

That's for Gt73 though
I need GT75 because i'm trying to find something.
where are all the GT75VR owners?

 

ohh when you said any of you nice guys I swear I read it "any of you nice two guys" as in me and HaloGod so I thought that you wanted any EC Firmware screenshot. well, then the cat image was still in the appropriate place

 

Oh I need the Gt75VR EC RAM printout from RW Everything because i need to find out "why" Hybrid power is disabled in the GT75, but enabled on the GT73, and see if that's a register in the EC or some code in the Bios that "links" to it, or EC that isn't in a register (sort of like the 460W power cap for SLI 1070's, that still uses the 230w power ID).

But I can only even start 'guessing' after I see an GT75VR EC RAM printout, since MSI uses a very similar structure on all of their EC's.

 

Awesome! Thank you!!

Cool, I'll check that.

Did not know about Flex mode. Not sure its worth my time/money to upgrade all my RAM. I've got 32GB and am pretty happy with that. Thanks for the info!!

 

@lizardking88mph can you please download RW Everything, and please check the "EC" tab, and give me a screenshot of your EC RAM, if it's not too much trouble? It will only take like 2 minutes at most. probably longer to upload the screenshot than to get it installed

Thank you for your help. (that is if your taptop isn't disassembled yet)
I helped you with the disassembly videos so i would really appreciate it.

 

Sure thing! Here ya go!!

 

Thank you!
I see the power ID is still the same as the GT73VR, so the MS 17A2 mainboard is extremely similar to MS 17A1..
Your powerID is 91 at EC register E3, same as Phoenix's (that's the 330W power ID for GTX 1080; the 230W power id is 90).

The one thing I see is , at EC register FE, there is a 01 there. Going to have to put that in my GT73 and see if it blows up or not.. You do have RGB lighting on your keyboard so I dont know if that value is related. Register FD is a bizarre register...SLI users of GTX 1070 have a "01" there, while single card (1070 AND 1080 users) have an 03 there. Yet, if you set "CPU Fan speed=maximum" in the Bios, this causes a boot loop (once) and sets this to 43 or something strange.

EC registers 2B And 2C Are also different, but those may be dangerous to change or do nothing, they're awfully close to the battery/AC drain status registers on the next row.

At least I have something to mess with for the moment. I'll need others to post as well to make sure that "01" is common to GT75VR's. So if anyone else posts their EC and there's also a 01 there, then I assume that's something related to the keyboard or some other device, or some change that may just crash my GT73 but I'll see.

Thank you
*edit* that 01 did nothing. welp... ;/

 

Falkentyne is a specialist.

 

No I'm just a horribly OCD fanatical creep

 

Did you test every single EC register? How did you figure out what value does what? Would you be able to mod an EC firmware hardcoded?

 

Only @Prema can do that. Modding an EC Requires the SHA-1 256 bit encryption key from MSI, or cracking it yourself, because one byte wrong causes an instant brick, either after flashing, or after a POST check checksum fail.

I THINK i found out why Hybrid power is disabled in the Gt75VR. EC registers 5A through 63 all have values ranging from 02 7F 02 7F 02 02 7F 02 7F, with the 7F's changing to 80, 81 or 02. On the GT75VR, all those registers have zero's in them. On the MSI 16L13, they also have 0's in them. ...

And those values are read only, too. If I try to spam 00 into them, they change right back and laugh at me.

 

Also, hybrid power can be deactivated by some STRANGE keystroke in the GT73VR Bios (not the 4 key bios unlock combo but ANOTHER COMBO that no one knows!!!) Only @Shehary has ever seen that option and it was by PURE ACCIDENT And he cant make it appear again!!!!!!!!!!

 

220-230 nits according to my xx-rite i-1 profiler.

 

New GT75VR review.

 

Without msi true color installed and at max brightness, I'm reading about 317 nits in the center

 

That's even higher than that the reviewers claim! nice

What they say is:

It's Chi Mei N173HHE-G32 a 1080P 120hz / 3ms screen supporting G-Sync. Brightness = 280nt / RGB = 100% / Adobe RGB = 79%

 

Yep and the reason is the default color profile and MSI true color. It really turns down the white/blue levels. I always uninstall true color immediately.That's why some GT75 reviews claim 260 nits, while others are in the 300s.

 

Apologies 287 white luminance on the x-rite. whatever that is.

 

Has anyone repasted the GT75VR ? Can you let me know which thermal paste and thermal pad thickness / brand to use? I've tried repasting and repadding but it seems to get worst...

 

What paste and pads did you use?
Exact paste, exact pads, and pad thickness you used, please?

 

I've tried
- Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 0.5mm
- Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 1mm
- Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
- Cleaning with ArticClean
- Fujipoly / mod/smart Extreme X-e Thermal Pad - 100 x 15 x 0.5 - Thermal Conductivity 11.0 W/mK


I've pretty much given up at this point...

 

What's the problem you are having ? Can you please describe it?
In full detail?

Like, specifics, exacts. temps, exact core temps, everything.

 

My temps go up to 99 when exporting video in Premiere Pro.

I removed overclock and still it is at 99deg. even with coolerboost.

Specs are here - http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/msi-gt75vr-7rf-titan-pro-review-by-zkst.809310/

 

Why didn't you return it to the seller for another unit during the return period, or RMA it to MSI to repair it?

There is likely some cooling component failure - heat pipe / heat exchanger, or it's bent / not making good contact.

Unless you have done re-pasting a lot already, attempting a laptop re-paste can be problematic - unless you have other craft or hands on materials assembly / dis assembly experience.

Most newbies that have no hand's on craft or DIY experience I know don't have a good experience the first few times through re-pasting and will end up spending weeks - months on the first one, retrying until they perfect their perspective and technique before they get the desired result.

Unless you broke something internally, MSI will still take it on as an RMA repair.

If you are stuck RMA'ing it, don't complain about shipping it - cost and time - be happy MSI is there to fix it for you under warranty, all part of the original purchase price.

You can register it with MSI, and request an RMA repair, attach a zip file of the test runs, temps, photo's, etc - and don't lie - tell them the truth that you tried to repaste it yourself but there must be a component issue because your efforts aren't having an effect - same results each time.

If you are nice to MSI, humble yourself a bit, they will do it without charge.

Please come back and let us know how it works out.

 

Kryonaut dries out fast on direct die contact. Don't use it on laptops without perfect heatsink fit. It's ok on the GPU however.
It's possible to get Kryonaut to work if you are completely OCD, but you need an absolutely perfect fit, and it will still degrade after awhile. On an IHS, it's fine because the heat isn't so extreme, since it spreads around the heat spreader instead of a tiny area.

I would try Noctua NT-H1, Phobya Nanogrease Extreme, even IC diamond. 0.5mm thermal pads are fine on CPU VRMs and chokes. better pressure on CPU (a little at least) than 1mm.

The best way to handle the problem is full on liquid metal, nail polish coating over exposed SMD Resistors around die, and cut out highly compressible foam dams to stop any leaking of LM onto the mainboard (as you can see from searches here), but if that isn't available, definitely a thicker paste should work better.

I have 2 tubes of Kryonaut, one tube of Phobya Nanogrease Extreme, one tube of Noctua NT-H1, one almost gone tube of 1g Conductonaut, and a mostly full tube of 5g Conductonaut.

 

I bought it in SG and I am in Australia.

I've registered for an RMA in Australia but MSI says they may not warrant it since i opened it and repasted.

They has showed me the prices if in case I need to buy new fans or heatsinks which is about $200AUD or so.

I'll be sending it in this Monday for an RMA. Will report back by the end of week.

 

That's not too bad of a charge, chaulk it up to a learning experience. It could have gone ok, but it sounds like there is a bad part / component keeping you from success.

As long as your actions didn't break anything, the faulty part should be covered under warranty.

Like I said, be nice, but be completely up front, you had the problem before you opened it up and your careful efforts with excellent materials couldn't rectify the problem.

And, now you are looking to MSI to help diagnose where the fault in the assembly or components are.

MSI / Asus always quote a price in these situations, and they may end up charging, but then again they may not charge you and cover it all under warranty.

At least you'll get it back from MSI working like it's supposed to, and be sure and mention that to them - that you are relieved that MSI will diagnose and repair it so you can enjoy it as you expected it to run out of the box.

 

Why are you RMAing

Why don't you just buy some good paste (NOT Kryonaut) and repaste it again yourself? You don't have access to any good paste? Heck, you can buy several pastes, vs the cost of shipping the laptop back.

Try what I said.
1) Phobya Nanogrease Extreme.
2) Noctua NT-H1
3) IC7 Diamond.

I got sick of the Kryonaut hype after i saw how bad it is on laptops, due to excessive heat and pumpout. It's fine on desktops usually, but not with de-lids.
After seeing dryout and temps rise multiple times, I just went with liquid metal and never looked back

Don't take the easy way out. RMA is a joke. You'll just get another laptop back that will eventually need repasting again because all they do is put on a thermal stamp.

Hell, it's faster for MSI to SHIP you a new heatsink or fan if the heatsink is warped or defective (or fan is dead) and costs less, too! (MSI Tom has done that for customers, but it does cost. Hell there are even replacement heatsinks you can buy on ebay). Just fix it yourself

BTW one paste which may be good for laptops is Arctic Ceramique 2 ! (not 1, but 2). The thermal properties are not that good, but it will not dry out. it's very resistant to high heat.

 

I’ve been playing with the CPU clocks and will stay at 4.4ghz. -30mv under volt and had to raise the amps and wattage limits through XTU to stop it from “current throttling”. It’s Stable, and temps are averaging around 78C in heavy gaming. Very impressed with this machine. My Alienware 17 R4 couldn’t keep the temps this low at stock clocks WITH a massive undervolt and repaste

 

As a FF fan this laptop makes me happy.

 

New BIOS for MSI GT75VR Titan Pro E17A2IMS.10B

 

Yuck.. More ucode CPU crashing coming right your way, courtesy of Big Brother Intel.

anyone with an EEPROM Programmer want to flash a GT75VR Bios into a GT73VR and see if Phoenix's microwave kitty cat appears?

 

Falkentyne's future Beta tester pictured live >>>

 

updating to the latest bios now......

 

@Phoenix @Falkentyne

What do you know..... Updating to this bios allowed my physics score in firestrike to jump +690 points....

 

My 1070 is right behind you.

 

My results below with a light overclock. The graphics in this game look horrible and optimization seems horrible as well. Going to run it again with a full overclock on my 1080
@Falkentyne @tyrandrew

 

Hey everyone, Im planning to buy this laptop but I have a few question:

1. Is the model without SSD still has the SSD heatsink?

2. Can you make dual channel ram with different brand (same speed) on the single channel 16GB model?

 

Yes to both of those questions. I verified this when adding my SSD and also mixed Kingston and crucial ram. Just make sure the specs are identical and it will run in dual channel with no issues. Same speed, latency, and voltage (1.2v). Also make sure its in the correct slot, I believe its the one closest to the bottom plate.

 

Hey GT75VR owners,
Anyone know exactly what that new silver heatsink is supposed to be cooling, above the video card MXM slot?

The GT73VR does not have a heatsink there, and no one complained.
In this picture it's at the bottom:




Here's what that heatsink is covering in the GT73, which doesn't have one:



Anyone know what that chip is, why it has a heatsink on it, and if putting a copper RAMsink on it on the GT73 might have any benefit?

 

If there isn't anything under it generating heat, then it's likely a heat shield from the heat radiated by the heatpipe and nearby heatplate.

Someone with a GT75 will need to remove it to know for certain

 

Can anyone tell me why MSI sent me a test report stating that they cannot replicate the temperatures in AIDA64??

 

If you don't mind waiting for mine to be back from RMA.. I can tell you.

 

Ok, if you remember thank you very much.

 

Because MSI has a bunch of chinese engineers that have a lot of difficulty understanding English, sometimes.
They are using AIDA64 to monitor temperatures, and running furmark. They are not doing the same thing you are doing, because they don't understand what you tested or what you want them to do besides "use AIDA64 to see if system is overheating".

You need to tell them to EXPORT VIDEO IN ADOBE PREMIRE, then use any program to watch temps while exporting video. Tell them the video must be a LARGE Size file.

You can also tell them to run a stress test that uses AVX instructions.

Better yet, tell them to install Asus "Realbench" and run Realbench on your laptop.
This will work better.

Then they will see 99C.

They can get it here, since they probably don't even know what it is.

https://rog.asus.com/rog-pro/realbench-v2-leaderboard/

 

This is the Aida64 test they should done. Not monitoring temp

 

For future reference, the stock thermal "stamp" MSI used on your laptop sucked (like Genocid's problem). You're better off just buying thermal paste and repasting it yourself next time. You can't expect MSI to be competent and fix your problem if you just sent the entire laptop there for "overheating problems" when you can fix it yourself. This is precisely the reason i tell people NOT to send their laptops in for "overheating" because MSI can't even understand the problem correctly. Look at what happened to @Arestavo for SEVEN MONTHS. He had to take a VIDEO of the problem before MSI finally got a CLUE and upgraded his mainboard to kaby lake.

 

Well MSI ran the tests again, I think it's very nice of them. They told me they had replaced the Mobo, Heatsinks and Fans and still get 90deg on Stressing. They are not charging me at all which is amazing!

I have told them to return the laptop and I'll be putting on some paste and new pads again.

Would love to know some recommendations for a delidded CPU and some good thermal conductivity thermal pads, of course this time around, i'll be measuring the thicknesses of the pads before buying the new pads...