*** The Official MSI GT63 TITAN Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

Cool. So, you got max 83 Degrees on Gpu and 87 Degrees on Cpu at 3.9 in battle1. How much was rpm fan ?

 

Yep Usually I get 80-82 Degrees on the CPU and 78-81 on the GPU when playing BF1. However, my temperatures are somewhat higher due to the ambient room temperature being between 27 and 31 degrees degrees Celsius. It is quite hot here in Australia at the moment .... Both fans were hovering between 2900-3200 RPM on both the CPU and GPU. I have a custom fan curve configured in MSI Dragon Center.

Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk

 

Hi I have not unlocked the TDP limitations. I will check how long I am able to sustain the higher TDP for you when I am on next.

Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk

 

So I have done some further testing. The 45w TDP limitation was imposed after approximately 60 seconds when running the Prime95 "Blended" torture test as per readings in Throttlestop. P1 and P2 limits appear to be working as intended.

Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk

 

Does anyone know if it is possible to under-volt the CPU in the BIOS by means of the combination key unlock? Do you require an unlocked BIOS (i.e. one from Svet) to modify the voltage offset.

 

It is possible if someone unlocks it, typically the manufacturers themselves with support from Intel. Otherwise, the BIOS is very much locked down.

 

The negative offset is in "Overclocking performance menu".

Might as well set Core IA AC and Core IA DC loadline to 1 in CPU VR settings also, then decide afterwards if you need to undervolt as you may have stability problems if you combine both together.
(note: default value for IA AC and IA DC loadline for Core IA Domain is 180, which is auto, or zero. (theoretically it's supposed to be 210 but who knows what MSI is thinking). Lower values cause load voltage to be amplified less. Under NO circumstances will you EVER exceed 180. 1 and 1 for both values gives lowest load voltage amplification at load (very important when using manual voltage overrides).

 

Falkentyne, does that provide the same effect as Intel XTU? Is it stable to do so? What if the system doesn't come back on because of unstable settings? Thanks.

 

Thanks for the explanation I have found the negative offset value but am concerned with changing it. To reiterate, my BIOS is the latest revision of the stock MSI BIOS. I am able to gain access to the advanced configuration options by using a key combination. Is using this key combination equivalent to flashing an unlocked BIOS though? Is there potential to brick my machine by changing the voltage offset in a stock BIOS (unlocked only via a key combination)?

My apologies for not properly explaining my question in appropriate detail in my last post.

 

It is better, because it removes the overvoltage applied by MSI, and runs at "design" voltage, so to say. If you perform the IA DC loadline setting change, you can't really undervolt a lot more as you have removed a sizable amount of voltage from the CPU. It's the same reason why out of the box you can undervolt like -130mv, its a lot of padded voltage added by manufacturers. You essentially remove that.

For best results is doing the bios change and not use intel XTU etc.

Yes, if you flash an unlocked BIOS, you essentially gain access to the options hidden with the key combination. Perhaps the custom BIOS could be "cleaner" if needed, only highlighting particular options. But if you have the key combo, you are set.

As Falkentyne suggested, it is better to put the loadline settings to 1 (or 5 perhaps for extra stability?) and don't undervolt at all. If you are going to do this, first remove any undervolt you currently have, and stop using intel XTU or throttlestop (specially if you have it to auto launch at startup) to avoid crashes.

 

Thank you for the explanation.
You guys are OC pros.

 

Thanks again for this I hate to ask, but seeing as I do not spend a great deal of time in my BIOS, could someone please list the steps to change the core voltage offset when in the Overclocking Menu. Am fearful of changing something incorrectly. Will +rep for the assistance.

 

Quick and probably, dumb, question but just want to make sure. My unit shipped with a BIOS undervolt of -50mvh from HIDEvolution....if lets say I want to push that a little more with Throttlestop, i know i have to take that core BIOS undervolt into consideration. So i want to try a -100mvh undervolt so I would only undervolt an additional -50mvh in Throttlestop/XTU because the BIOS is already providing a -50mvh.

Basically BIOS Undervolt of -50 and then the Throttlestop/XTU Undervolt -50 = -100mvh total undervolt correct? This is my first laptop with a BIOS undervolt so want to make sure....

Getting great temps already with -50 Undervolt and LM repaste from them (see previous posts) but wouldn't mind pushing it a little further if I can. Figured if i can get it stable with -50mvh undervolts with BIOS and Throttlestop/XTU, and it doesn't crash or blue screen out or anything, i will them use the Bios unlock code and go in and change it to a -100mvh undervolt in the BIOS after testing.

Thanks!

 

I am not entirely sure. It might be possible that if you put -60mv, as an example, it will simply override HID's -50, for a total of -60. In the end, both Throttlestop and the BIOS setting are most likely targeting the same registers when putting the undervolt, so I don't think they add, but instead get rewritten?

 

You can check in Hwinfo if added undervolt being recognized. Compare with what ThrottleStop say in FIVR windows (offset).

 

As per my last post, can anyone please provide an explanation as to how one can undervolt in an unlocked MSI BIOS. Steps would be much appreciated, in addition to noting what parameters must be configured. Thanks

Edit:
Never-mind, under-volting in the BIOS was relatively simple. Just had to refresh on BIOS specific terminology and acronyms to be sure I was adjusting the appropriate parameters.

Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk

 

Where exactly did you go in the Bios to just undervolt @Pureownuge69 or @Papusan ? I am going to use the “code” to unlock mine

 

We have found that -50mV is about all the GT63 will take. Please proceed with caution because it is working fine now, and we doubt you can get -100mV and stay stable.

 

An interesting conclusion. My CPU is currently undervolted by - 110mv in the BIOS and is certainly stable. Anything lower than - 120mv and I begin to notice instability in specific applications and games, even though it still passes all stress tests without a hitch. I may just be lucky though . If you don't mind me asking, what applications or processes are used by HID to evaluate and determine whether an undervolt is stable?

@captaincranium Apologies for not getting back to you on how to undervolt in the BIOS. I will post some steps for you tomorrow night when I return home.

Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk

 

Mine is also stable at -125mV everyday. Had it at -150mV but turned it down a notch just for ease of mind.

But I might follow Donald's advice and lower the undervolt even more, closer to the -75 or -50mV. I have the modded bottom cover and good paste so temps are well under check and I always worry on how undervolts fare in the long run. They theoretically put more of a strain in some electrical parts, requiring them to filter voltage to lower amounts. It can't all be roses I'm sure.

 

As with all CPUs, YMMV, so if you can undervolt more, and it is stable for your uses...carry on!

Here is what we do for Q.C. testing:

Stress testing and Benchmarks:
Firestrike/Time Spy
PassMark/Performance test
AIDA64 Extreme
HDtunepro (for SSDs/HDDs)
Memtest86
Testmem5

Monitoring software:
HWiNFO64
GPU-Z
MSI Afterburner + Rivatuner Statistics Server

We also do at least 30mins-1hr of intense online gaming at Ultra settings with high end games for those with a heavy build and mods.

So, to throw it back, what do you do to test stability?

 

Thank you @Pureownuge69 ...much appreciated!

And thank you too @Donald@HIDevolution

 

@captaincranium See the below steps for undervolting in the BIOS (via configuration of Core Voltage Offset) Please ensure that any other voltage offset modifications you have made via the OS are reset to default (i.e. in Throttlestop OR Intel XTU). If you do not reset such configurations, you are effectively compounding a BIOS level configuration with an OS level configuration (undervolting and then undervolting further again). This may result in a system that will refuse to boot (into windows at least).

Once you have unlocked the BIOS with your magic combination :

• Navigate to Advance (tab) > OverClocking Performance Menu and enable "OverClocking Feature"
• Once the "OverClcoking Feature" parameter is enabled, you will be presented with new sub-menus. Navigate to, and select the now available "Processor" option.
• Whilst in the "Processor" sub menu, configure the "Offset Prefix" parameter beneath the "Core Voltage Offset" parameter to "-" (negative). Inversely, should you like to add voltage, you would simply set the value of the "Offset Prefix" to "+".
• Once you set the value of the "Offset Prefix", adjust the "Core Voltage Offset" parameter to the desired value. For example, if you enter "100" (and the offset prefix is "-"), this will equate to -100mv on the Core
• Be sure to save your configuration changes before exiting the BIOS and rebooting.

Will post my testing process for evaluating CPU stability shortly

 

Shout-out to GenTechPC for posting their video review and disassembly of the new MSI GT63 8SX (RTX2080).

Sadly, as can be seen in the screenshot below, there is very little chance of successfully upgrading from the GTX 1080 in the GT63 8RG to the RTX 2080 On first glance, it appears the following have changed:

• Motherboard layout
• Heat sink mounting points
• GPU dimensions
• GPU placement (relative to the motherboard)
  
• GPU PCB layout

Oh well...

 

THANK YOU @Pureownuge69 for posting the exact ways to undervolt and where to go in the BIOS. Even if i don't try with my GT63, i have a GE63 with a 1070 in it that i would love to BIOS undervolt. That is currently holding at a -110mv through XTU so I would assume if it is working with no problems in XTU, it should be safe for the most part in BIOS?

Also thank you @Donald@HIDevolution for the follow up on my system as well. I might just leave it at the -50mv then since it sounds like you put it through the ringer. Kinda bummed that is the lowest it could possible go but what can ya do?

 

Hey guys just got a GT63 Titan 2080 from @GenTechPC highly recommend them! Anyways, hitting 86c on a timespy loop and indicating thermal throttling. This is the opted w/ liquid metal variant. . This normal for these models?

One thing I noticed is the thermals go down very very slowly when there is no load anymore at max fans. I've had Sager's, modded M15x's, and a few predators back in the day and never seen it act like this.

 

How long does it take to reach the maximum temperature under load (just before throttling), is it instantaneous? Or does it take some time?

Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk

 

Took about 7 minutes to hit 80c then another 8 minutes to reach 86c this is while having maxed out fan settings from a cold start. If I leave the fans on "Auto" its pretty much like a microwave. Jumps to 86c in under 10 minutes.

 

Hmm, 86 degrees Celsius for the GPU is not terrible... How is it that you are able to confirm that the PC is thermal throttling? Scores dropping on subsequent runs is expected and normal. Are you running GPU-z? Should have asked this first really.

A stock GT63 8RG (GTX 1080) would typically be in the high 80s and low 90s under sustained load and never thermal throttle (auto fan). GPU Boost would slowly diminish though. Different (and in my opinion better) heatsink though.

Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk

 

@Specv89

Can you share some benchmarks of your machine so we can compare with the GTX1080 machines like mine?

Thanks!

 

Using the overlay and checked off temp limit along with gpu-z running in the background. As long as its normal then I am okay with it. However it seems like those fans are choked under the laptop as they have to funnel in air through the center cut out. I wonder if the is a special punchout tool where I can add some breathing room with some mesh on the bottom cover.

 

https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/15229319

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/34236537?

 

Many thanks!
10% to 15% more than the GTX1080 variants is not a big jump.

Not feeling bad to have the 1080 version after all

 

Yeah the RTX series has been real bummer.

How are your temps?

 

With CoolerBoost enabled, and UV on the CPU, I get 80 / 82 on the GPU (GTX 1080) and 84 / 85 on the CPU on a long stress session.

Never hit the Temperature limit and besides the normal CPU power throttle (heading it back to 45 Watts after 45 seconds of Turbo mode at 3.9Ghz using around 70W).

 

For some reason the most recent nvidia drivers aren't working so I edited the INF file in case anyone needs it on the 2080 variant. Luckily I knew how back from the m15x days with the 980m lol

 

Anyone know if there are vbios mods available yet for the 2080? Premamod?

Even though the boost says up to 1590 this thing is boosting up to 2100 and hovers at about 1945 to 2070Mhz while gaming. Looking to see if I can do a vbios undervolt to help with temps.

+85core +1000memory

initial clocks
https://imgur.com/Bsru2Ij

sustained +2000Mhz core at 80c
https://imgur.com/a/75c8PsH

the only odd thing is that it is not showing a vram usage could be a bug or something.

 

Your GPU is boosting that high because it's barely being used (51%/64% usage) due to a CPU or RAM bottleneck. In something that uses the GPU to 100%, its clocks will be much lower. 80C at only 51% GPU usage is also a bit concerning.

 

Ordered an old GT-62vr bottom cover and did the hole cut out under the gpu/cpu fans. Added copper shims over the cpu/gpu base and along the heatpipes. Cpu/gpu stay in the sub 70's while doing heavy gaming at 100% fan speed.. Very happy with the outcome and gained a lot of insight over at the Eurocom Tornado f5 threads! Have pics if anyone is curious to see the mods. Idling with stock fan curve GPU stays at about 28-31c cpu is at about 33-37c.

 

@Specv89 yeah if you could post the pics/procedures that would be great! I was thinking about doing at least the two hole cut. Has anyone confirmed if that procedure has any ill effect on any other party of the layout?

@Donald@HIDevolution , do you sell just that mod (two panel hole cutout on the bottom with mesh) for the GT63VR?

Also for the life of me, and I can't figure out why or WHAT i am doing wrong, but I can't get my profile to use a signature of any kind on this forum. I have my HID Evolution member tag and everything to post my specs and "team" affiliation, but its not working. I can't believe i am even asking for help on something so "noobish"....but alas.....here I am....

 

Here's some pics and and a quick video I made of thermals while playing Anthem. Figured it would be a good combination of gpu/cpu usage since the game isn’t really well optimized.

https://imgur.com/a/mu7Vie6

 

Sure, we can sell you that mod...but if we don't use your bottom panel we would have to order one, which could take 4-6 weeks.

Call me and I will help walk you through the signature building process.

 

Update: Added the MSI GT-62 Fan for the GPU. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077ZNG23K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Both of the original fans maxed out at around 3750rpm this one maxes out at about for 4900rpm. Replaced it for the GPU for even more optimal cooling. At full speed GPU stays in the high 60's low 70's now.

https://imgur.com/a/NWR2XdN

 

Can you confirm the specific model number of the fan you installed to replace the original installed from factory? An image of the original OEM fan (sticker side showing model) next to that of the replacement would be greatly appreciated.

Was it a Aavid Thermalloy PABD19735BM -N322?

Was contemplating making this change myself, but my concern is that the earlier revision of the fan used in the GT62VR was prone to failure. The fan is not my concern, but rather its potential to damage the motherboard.

Is it considerably louder than the OEM fan at when operating at maximum RPM?

 

Will try and get some pics up sometime today. From what I see, they had the same part numbers "PABD19735BM-N395 and yes it was an AAVID Thermally only difference was the barcode on the backside.


Was plug and play for me. From the forums over at the Eurocom Tornado f5 threads the
LRHKF Asus ROG G750JH G750JH-DB71 series AB08812HX26DB00(00G750) 4pins was also recommended but depending and what variant you get may require rewire and slight modification to make it fit. Same connector though just shuffling around the wires.

As far as noise, yes, it is considerably louder but you can max it out to match the other fan so its about the same at about 70%ish but at least its good know you have a little headroom for extra cooling.

 

I got an extra modded bottom cover from HID Evolution if anyone's interested, just PM me.
Europe only tho.

 

Hi!

I apologize if this is the wrong forum to ask, so please delete my post if inappropriate.

I'm strongly considering getting a GT63, and the only thing holding me back is I hear some people complain about dodgy build quality on some MSI-laptops, especially the screen hinges. I'm used to my old ASUS ROG (which is a solid 9,5 pounds, built like a tank and has lasted for 5 years with no problems), and the Titan-series looks really solid on pictures as well. But I have to buy it online (Norway), so I'm not going to be able to try before I buy, so therefore I'm I hope some of you GT63 owners can offer some useful feedback on build quality. Thanks!

 

Hi,

I must say that it strange to hear that MSI is being referenced for poor build quality in any scenario. With the obvious exception of manufacturing defects, I have never heard any complaints. That said, if you go searching for negative feedback, you will certainly find it.

But do keep in mind that a majority of those that purchase MSI laptops and have a positive experience, will go about their lives without posting anything.

After owning my GT63 for a little over a year, I am very happy with the build quality. And it is largely superior to my previous Clevo in every way. The hinges are just as firm as the day the laptop arrived on my doorstep.

Obviously if you take care of it, it will last you for many years to come. If you expect to throw it in a backpack, smash it into walls, drop it on the floor and then complain about build quality, you deserve the outcome.

Just my thoughts though. All commentary is obviously relative to experience, and mine has certainly been a positive one. If you do buy it, you won't be disappointed




Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk

 

Build quality is not very good. Materials are very fragile and thin. Nuts on the hinges, I would recommend to loosen, if the cover will open up hard. This will protect the hinge attachment and the cover from future deformation. I did it right away with buying a laptop.
the plastic on the lid creaks when opened and closed. Also, the fans in these laptops are not of the best quality. They make a strange sound and often fail, just stop working. Therefore, many users install here fans from Asus. In addition, the heat sinks may be uneven, which causes overheating and throttling of the processor. These are the main flaws that I found in my GT62.

 

Addition from other users of gt62
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=283511.0