*** The Official MSI GT63 TITAN Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

It may be worth mentioning that the fan issue was specific to the GT62VR and not a universal issue across other MSI product lines. I have not yet seen (but truthfuly have not really looked) anyone reference faulting fans in a GT63 8RG, but it may be cause the unit is not that old. I personally have had no issues with my fans. If anyone has, please link (I am curious).

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Rather, the problem here is not with the GT62, but with a fan manufacturer company Aavid Thermalloy (which are universal for both 62 and 63 and for Eurocom Tornado F5 and all barebones based on them) who also had the same problem.
In addition, the problem is in the firmware EC. Also, this problem was on other MSI laptops back in 2012. More on the link. https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=162459.0
I want to note that the fans from ADDA http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/msi-16l13-eurocom-tornado-f5-fan-modifications.810712/ work perfectly quietly and do not emit any extraneous sounds They also have a higher maximum speed of 5100 rpm

 

I have never seen any negative reviews about problems with fans on other laptops like (acer, asus lenovo, etc.) Perhaps this is because they use more expensive and high-quality fans.
But I met those who changed the bearings in the fans of the MSI laptops such as for example, the GT 72. They installed Japanese bearings of a higher accuracy class there. And I also tried to find such bearings so that they were quieter without extraneous sounds of a motor.

 

If the problem is related to the embedded controller firmware, then it is safe to say it is laptop specific. The GT63 (owing to the differing hardware) would be running considerably different EC firmware, and I would highly doubt that any of bugs would have been carried over from previous models and not corrected (considering the headaches failing fans caused for MSI).



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But this problem was the owners of Eurocom Tornado F5 too. It means they also had defective firmware ? But after replacing ADDA fans, they worked without problems.

 

The EC firmware in the Eurocom Tornado F5 is based upon the that used in the GT62 VR (essentially and MSI base for the code, modified by Eurocom).

The problem to my mind being an incompatibility between the EC and the fan PWM micro controller, or possibly just a faulty fan micro-controller from factory that degraded over time. But as with any manufacturer, later revisions of their fan controller would have likely addressed the issue.

I believe such issues may have been resolved when Aavid Thermalloy released the N322 revision (or possibly later revision) of the PABD19735BM model fan. My friend installed this after his original fans failed 2 years ago and has had no issues since.

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My 8 months old GT63 8RG has zero problems. Fans are just fine, no random slowdowns, no halts.

There are no incidents with these laptops that came to my knowledge so far. And here not a single report of such problems.

It is robust and solid and reliable machine

 

Thank you all for feedback!

I'm gonna order a GT63 based on this, I'm getting an excellent price on the 1070-version (by Norwegian standards). I found a shop with 50 days free return option, and even a 20% discount if you buy I returned machine.

The consumer laws in Norway are pretty sweet as well, by law you have 5 years to complain on any defect not caused by mis-use. It makes computers more expensive here for sure, but is super nice in case of anything going wrong outside of the international warrenty.

 

Sorry for asking but how much will you pay for that laptop?

 

No problem!

It will cost about 2220 USD if new, 1790 USD if I chose the returned product (but also with the 5 years "warranty"). By comparison the 1080-version costs 4060 USD (!)

 

???
How is that possible?
My GT63 8RG with gtx1080 and 1x16GB was 2200€ brand new on the usual "street" shops...
4060USD? Gosh...

 

Well, someone need to pay for the 5 year mandatory warranty. Also, Norway is not a big country so I guess gamer laptops as a nieche-product is rather expensive as well because of the volume of sales is probably extremely low here compared to the US. The general cost level here is pretty high (a beer can be about $10 in a prime location bar), but on the flip side the income is pretty good.

It's not like other brands are cheaper either, so it's either eating the bullet or buy in another country. However if you try to avoid VAT (25%) on import, you're screwed in case of a warranty issue (also, you're down to the manufacturers warranty, which is what? 1 year?). Also, I'm not travelling to the US in the near future.

Edit: I found the 1080-version in another shop for about 3000usd but still opted for the 1070-version.

 

Bought a used gt63 titan recently in the U.S. for $1500usd with a gtx1080 and i7 8750, and 16GB of ram. Was a return and suppose to be in like new condition. I know these have cooling issues but I have a gl702vs and know the tricks of the trade to keep these things running cooler. I usually gimp the performance a bit by turning maximum processor state of the cpu to 99%, and limit vsync to 60fps to get decent temps. Will definitely try the hole cut out mods, repaste, and other ideas in this thread. This seems like a much better deal than a 2080 laptop with a 8700 cpu that'll run 2500-3000usd over here new any way. 1080 seems to be only about 20% behind in 1080p and almost equal in 2k/4k benchmarks to a 2080. Just hope my used one turns out ok though. Should be a nice performance boost over the gl702vs with gtx1070 and i7 7700 I gather.

 

For the right price it's a great little machine with little to fault. Good inputs, good build, great screen, adequate battery life for a GTX1080, solid performance. Having this much performance in a little 15.6" device is very cool!

Too bad it only has a single m.2 slot. I think it's the biggest fault with the machine.

Temperature development isn't great either, but at least it's a very silent machine. Proper paste, CPU and GPU undervolt should keep everything well under check

 

Well I got the laptop and the fans have a lot of motor whine did you swap the fans out to the g750 ones by chance?

 

No, I was on stock fans. I think those Asus ones are even louder

 

Fans sound faulty..... I have never heard whine from mine, only the rapid movement of air.

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No, they are quieter. No foreign sound engine. Just the sound of air.

 

Ya the MSI fans have the bearing noise whine. While the laptop is quiet at idle you still hear the bearing sound on mine. ​

Well I have the part number for the g750 gpu fans from alaskjoe's write up that you referenced earlier:

ADDA Part AB08812HX26DB00(00G750)

Seem to have found a place to buy them from...ebay or amazon apparently.

I plan to use two of these g750 gpu fans to cool the cpu and the gpu.

However I'm uncertain if I need to reverse the wiring on mine. Did you reverse the wiring, solder, and heat shrink them on your GT62 for it to work correctly like alask joe did:

I believe I'm correct when saying that the 16L13 is the same as the GT62...just wondering if anyone has done this on the GT63. ​

 

Yes, indeed, the factory MSI fans have a strange sound of a motor. Therefore, I replaced the fans from Asus.
But I left the plug from the MSI fan. I just moved the Asus plug into the MSI plug. Wires are removed from the plug.
I just leave a photo so that there is no confusion. At 2 half-photos, the fans from Asus are already connected through the plug from the MSI. The wires must be in the same sequence as in the photo.

 

@Semmy could you record sound of new fans? at 50% speed and at full fan speed

 

Sorry, now I can not record because my laptop in the service center. It is waiting for some modification. But you can just search for reviews with a laptop asus g750 or ROG G20. And I think I will never turn them on at full speed because it’s 5100 rpm, which is a hell of a lot and it’s loud. 3000 rpm is enough for my needs even in the stress test AID64 I did 72-74 °C on a CPU and a GPU

 

Thanks for the clarification. Any tips on how to remove the wires from the plug? Did you use a special tool? Soldering would probably be easier for me I'm guessing since I know these connectors are pretty delicate.

 

The needle should be enough. You need to lift these plastic clips and the wires can be removed.

 

Somebody to help: I can't make a backup. The laptop I buy from HYD - January 2019. The first thing I try to make a backup -error msg appear. A few days ago I restore the original configuration of the laptop and again I try to make backup - same error.
"YOUR COMPUTER'S DISK PARTITION ARE NOT FACTORY DEFAULT CONFIGURATION. (NO RECOVERY HIDDEN PARTITION).
THE APPLICATION CAN'T BE PROCEED"

This is with MSI BUR & RECOVERY APP.
Any ideas how to fix that?
Both hard drives were replaced by HYD with bigger ones.

 

You can either contact seller or MSI directly to obtain the recovery, or use media creation tool to generate an ISO that you can use to reload the OS.
If you need to retrieve data from the system and the OS is not bootable, then use WinPE, or other data backup/recovery utility to boot from an USB flash drive and then do the data extraction.

 

Thinking of selling my laptop.

MSI GT-63 8SG 144hz G-Sync
RTX 2080
64GB Ram 2666
1TB SSD 860evo
1TB Samsung NVME
Windows 10 Pro
Liquid Metal (Opted at checkout process)
Modded Bottom Panel with the 2 hole cutouts so fans can breathe easier (from a GT62VR)
Comes with unmodified original bottom cover
Swapped GPU fan from the GT63 1080 variant since it goes to a higher RPM. Original fan will be included.
Copper shims are placed along the heat pipes.
At full fan speed temps hover at high 60's low 70's depending on the game. (While laptop is sitting flat on the table and no fan pad. Temps drop to mid 60's when laptop cooling pad is used. at max fan speed.

If fan curve is left at automatic the fans are very quiet compared to before the mods since the laptop is dissipating heat a lot easier now.

Will do paypal

Taking reasonable offers.

Thanks guys

https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/17154369
(Before I added the extra 32GB of ram)


additional notes:

-.150 ndervolt
GPU max memory overclock is +1225mhz and +140 on the core

 

Will you sell 2 ram modules separately? What is the brand/model of your dimms?

 

make me an offer skhynx 2666

 

Oh I was looking for the Samsung dimms.
Thanks anyway

 

Hi guys, experiencing some issues with my new GT63 RG (so GTX 1080) and do not know how to proceed. Hoping one of you might know how to test things further or what to do .

I picked up the laptop on sale last week, had the normal issues with thermal throttling but after improving fan profile and applying an moderate undervolt via XTU everything was running pretty smooth with good temps - even without undervolt it was manageable.

Last night when I booted up and ran a couple of 3dmark firestrike benchmarks the CPU showed very high temperatures despite having high fan speeds and an elevated position on a laptop stand. I tested the CPU just as I had previously done with Cinebench R15 and XTU stress tests and experienced heavy power throttling even when just stressing the CPU by itself. The temperatures had reverted back to normal though, maxing out in the low 80s with boosted fans.

Never had issues with power throttling before so I disabled all my new settings and continuously tested it but the throttling is there all the time, usually takes about 20-30 seconds for it to kick in. Even tried to reinstall everything and revert to factory settings but to no avail.



Anyone know what could be my issue or how I should proceed? It worries me that prior to this issue I experienced some temperature spikes on the CPU (96-98°C) and that this issue appeared out of nowhere. In the earlier days of gaming laptops temperatures could go even higher than this so would not think it could cause any permanent damage but it sure seems that something changed. I also notice that one of the SSD temp sensors is showing high values even when the laptop is idle (hovering around 70), I do not know if this is usual or not for this laptop or this particular SSD. Also measured the wattage used on combined tests and it maxes out at 275W (330W PSU).



I have attached some images to clarify. Looking forward to hearing what I should try next or if there are any more tests I can run. Last option is to simply return the laptop, it was the last item on sale for a very good price so no option to swap it out sadly.

Thanks for the help !

 

Your laptop is behaving as per design.
Nothing strange is happening.

The CPU will use its turbo mode for about 30 to 45 seconds, and then power limit kicks in to limit it to 45 watts (the original TDP).
Normaly it will drop the frequency to 2.9/3.0ghz. if you have UV, you might get higher frequency when Power Limit is activated, like 3.3 to 3.4 but not more than this.

Cheers

 

I ordered my gt63 from gentech pc with kryonaut on gpu/cpu. I don't know why but my temps are really high while playing games, I will give metro exodus as example gpu goes to 87° after 15 minutes of gameplay and stays at 86 after that the whole time and the cpu spikes to 93° with - 150 mv undervolt. I keep the lapotp on a cooling pad also with max fans all the time while doing intensive tasks like gaming. I don't know why but the temps just seem too high and the problem is that the performance drecrese because the gpu can't mantain a stable frequency. I saw in your video reaching 2k on core, mine oscillates between 1400 and 1900. It's also power limit throttling, but doesn't seem to affect the frequency in your case

 

I would like to buy it if it's still available,didn't know how to pm you sorry

 

I am not sure if @Shark00n has another bottom cover. I bought him a bottom cover about 1 month ago.

 

Ohh ok, I will try and get one from HID Evolution then

 

Can you take a look on my reply post to specv89 above, please?

 

Sorry dude, already sold mine. Try with hidevolution.

 

There is so much more to achieving good thermals on these laptops than just re-pasting (TIM) and undervolting.

For anyone experiencing high temperatures (specifically on the CPU), I would recommend checking core temperature differentials. If the Delta between the hottest and coolest cores is greater than 7 degrees Celsius, you may need to get your hands on some quality highly compressible thermal pads (25 Shore 00 or less) and potentially some pressure paper (which can be quite expensive).

Use the pressure indication paper to determine whether the heat sink is making sufficient contact with CPU die (with uniform pressure across the surface). If it is not, you will likely need to replace thermal pads with thinner, thicker, or softer alternatives on specific components. The thermal conductivity of your TIM is meaningless if there is insufficient contact being made between the CPU/GPU and heat-sink.

With all of this in mind, I have been able to get my CPU (I7-8750H @ -100mv) and GPU (Core @ -75mv /1911Mhz + Mem +200Mhz) to only reach maximums of 72 Degrees (C) and 78 Degrees (C) respectively in a combination stress test of Prime95 (Floating Point Unit Torture Test) + Unigine Heaven (Ultra + Max MSAA @ 1440p) - 15 minute runs / ambient 27 degrees (C). And no, my fans are not on Cooler Boost Mode.

 

Question and this might seem like a possible dumb one...but my USB ports (on both sides) never power down completely when I shut off my laptop. I have a cooling pad plugged into the USB port and on all my other laptops, when it shuts down so will the lappy coolers or whatever else i have plugged in. But i noticed on my GT63, my cooling pad fans are still spinning after it shuts down completely. I know sometimes ONE USB port stays active for possible charging external devices, etc if you want, but ALL my ports are like this. I tried all the ports with the cooling pad and even a RGB mouse pad and they never go off when laptop is completely shut down?? I looked in the BIOS for any settings for this and it is extremely limited on options in the BIOS. Is everyone else's USB ports like this as well? Is there anything I am overlooking regarding this to get them to power down when i shutdown my lappy?

Thanks!

 

Hey captaincranium , this is normal behavior. If you unplug your AC adapter, the USB ports will no longer deliver power to externally connected devices. It is not advised to leave your laptop plugged in (AC) for extended periods of time when not in use anyway. I believe this is indeed a configurable feature in an unlocked BIOS (as I recall noticing it when navigating the various menus). To unlock your BIOS, you can use the key combo CTRL + SHIFT (Right side of keyboard) & ALT + F2 (Left side of keyboard).

I hope this helps. Caution is advised when making changes in the (advanced) BIOS if you are not farmiliar with the many configurable options and the associated implications.

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T

Thanks @Pureownuge69 ....that is what I thought. I figured I would have to go into the unlocked BIOS to possibly change that but I wanted to ask before i started to dig around in there... Will post if I had found the setting in the unlocked BIOS. Thanks again

 

One other question....the lower cover "mod" by HIDEvolution where the two holes are cut in the bottom under the GPU and CPU...has anyone truly been able to verify if it made a difference in temps that much (how much?) and if it affected the air flow to the rest of the computer in a negative way and possibly raised the temps in the other areas? Very interested in this modded under cover but if it only makes a few degrees temp difference and could negatively affect other areas for air flow then it doesn't really seem worth it. Anyone that has this or has had it in the past can you comment with actual temp stats or tests?

Thank you!

 

Although I have not done such a mod on my GT63 8RG, I have done it on a few other laptops in the past (Clevo P150EM and P960RD). It most certainly affects airflow characteristics inside the chassis. CPU and GPU temperatures will decline under load (5 - 10 degree Celsius) depending on how choked for air fans were previously, but other components that are not making direct contact with the heatsink will increase in temperature. By other components, I am referring to the PCH, volatile memory (RAM) and secondary storage (i.e. PCIE NVMe SSD).

These are the conclusions I came to after testing this mod in past. My advice would be to find a means of increasing airflow without negating the primary intake vent on the base of the unit.




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it does make a 5C difference. On today's laptops that overheat a lot due to the highend CPUs, anything that will lower my temps is welcome. You keep adding these mods and it makes a huge difference. Select Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut + Fujipoly Extreme Thermal Pads + that bottom panel mod and a slight undervolt and you're gold. You can also get a good cooling pad.

From my previous MSI GT75 Titan:

 

Thanks for the input @Pureownuge69 and @Ultra Male...yeah the bottom "vents" on the GT63 basically just go right up the middle and from what you would think they would want as much air intake flow to cool this little beast. Like the photo above I am surprised the vents didn't extend out to the left/right a little more near the front. I ordered it from @hidevolution at the time and they liquid metal pasted the GPU and CPU and applied the Fujipoly pads, i have a pretty good cooling pad for it, and they slapped a -50 bios undervolt on it. My temps are decent but seems to be getting higher lately? Idling around 48-51 and Firemark pushes the heat up to the mid 80's with all of those mods. I used to sit in the low 40's if that and mid to low 70's after running Firemark when i first tested it. So i am looking for any/all additional mods to do to get it even cooler.

 

I am surprised that with all those modifications, you are still only managing temperatures in the mid 80s. I am managing similar temperatures (and lower) with only the following modifications:

-Gelid GC Extreme on CPU and GPU die
-All thermal pads replaced with appropriate thickness Tflex 340 (Laird) pads (high thickness deflection at low pressure 50%| 50 psi), same as from factory
-100mv undervolt on CPU and - 82.5mv on GPU (Core)
-Fischer Electric low profile heatsink applied to PCH via 3M 8815 thermal adhesive tape (max temp now 60 degrees C/ idle 35 - 40 degrees C)

Have you undervolted the the GPU? If not, this is where you should see a considerable reduction in temp.

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Hi everyone, I have the GT63 Titan and everything's been fine until end of August. I've been using the Drain profile in Steelseries Engine since I bought the laptop and decided to turn it off then, I noticed that the backlight of some keys don't actually turn off. (Picture attached).

They are red and dim.



I set a plain red profile in steel series and the backlight of the same keys are kinda purple and pinkish in plain blue.



This doesn't affect other colors like green.



Whenever I shutdown or boot, before the laptop turns off or loads windows, one of the affected keys backlight turns full red. This happens at random. Might be the space bar key backlight now and the caps lock key next time.

I've tried to uninstall Steelseries Engine and drivers, uninstalled keyboard drivers, updated BIOS and EC firmware, reset the EC. The issue persists.
The keys are fine, just the backlight.

I don't know if this is a software/driver or hardware defect. This thread has really helped me a lot since I got this laptop.
Please help.

Specs.
MSI GT63 Titan 8RG
Windows 10 Pro
1TB Samsung 970 Pro NVMe SSD + 1TB Samsung 860 Evo SSD
32GB RAM
Nvidia GTX 1080 8GB

 

Hi Captainfall,

Interesting issue you have there. Seems like you have exhausted most of the basic troubleshooting steps that I could suggest short of swapping out hardware. That being said, I suspect a hardware problem or firmware corruption (this being more likely). Have you raised a support ticket and requested insights from MSI? They may have seen similar issues before.

I unfortunately have not seen this behavior in any Steelseries keyboards on MSI laptops. Dead LEDs are rather common, but this is certainly unique.

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