*** The Official MSI GT63 TITAN Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

In games, you detected any throtting? Or is always at 3,9Ghz?

 

I don't have any thermal throttle now, only Power limit throttle in stress tests.

No throttle of any kind in games after UV until now (Forza Horizon 4, GTA V, The secret world legends...)

 

Hi All,

My gaming sessions can keep the CPU at 3.9 all the time as well. Never saw a different behavior yet (not even on the new AC Odyssey).
Never had thermal issues with this laptop on all the CPU cores or GPU (except when applied TDP Hack). Only the Power limit as stated by ldcosta.

Even without any UV (all stock), the gaming sessions are smooth, no hangs or breaks, even when Power limit starts.

 

Thanks for posting the results . I have to admit that I am jealous Those core temperature differentials are excellent. I have an 8 degree (Celsius) difference between the hottest and coolest running cores when he CPU is under a heavy synthetic load.

I will be re-pasting with Arctic MX-4 (again) and replacing all thermal pads with GELID GP-Extreme (12w/m.k) alternatives soon.

Hopefully I can manage to mitigate the slight elevation on one side by using 0.5mm pads on the VRM inductors (chokes) and MOSFETs adjacent to the CPU (as opposed to the stock 1mm pads). Have attached some images of my previous disassembly prior to applying fresh TIM (only to re paste with MX-4).

 

A lot of thermal paste. Need a lot less. Better to use GELID GC-Extreme or Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut , not Arctic MX-4. And try to remove the thermal pads adjacent to the CPU for the test.

 

The paste shown in the photos is the factory applied TIM and was prior to RE application of MX4. If you see the image of the heatsink, it is a Laird TIM stamp from factory.

I have used MX-4 for years. It has never let me down and consistently given me great results. After the repaste, my maximum CPU temperatures dropped by approximately 8 degrees. Any specific reasoning as to why I should use these alternatives?

Arctic MX-4 is a reliable paste with a proven track record. I am aware that Thermal Grizzley Kryonaut offers a marginal improvement in terms of performance, but my primary concern is it drying out (>80 degrees C). Have not used GELID GC extreme, but have heard good things (hence my investment in GELID thermal pads for the CPU and GPU).

Also, don't believe it would be wise to remove the pads altogether, the VRM components generate considerable heat. Can result in instability and various other problems if inadequately cooled.

Thanks for the input

Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk

 

I think you should research what MSI uses for their thermal "paste".
Here is an unapplied original GT75VR heatsink.

 

From my experience, Kryonaut is just as durable.
Just the other day I opened a friends Clevo and it had Kryonaut applied from the assembler. Going on 3 years with very high temps and very high usage and the paste looked like new.
Right now I'm trying out Phobya Nanogrease and it also seems pretty great.

 

Finally I can post. I bought this laptop, but I’m not happy with the temps and throttling I get. Last time I reset it, it applied some windows updates and as soon as it got to windows I launches Hwmonitor and the CPU max temp was 91 degrees. Even with -160mv on CPU and a huge undervolt on GPU the CPU goes to max ~96 in PUBG.

I already bought Kryonaut paste and some thermal pads, but It feels a bit scary to open the laptop and repaste it.

I have an ESD bracelet thingie and ESD mat. Where do I connect the clips from those when I’ll open the laptop? I know I have to unplug the battery the first thing I open it before I touch anything.

And does anyone have any other important things to keep in mind, and was it easy to unscrew and remove the heatsink/heatpipe system? Thanks

Oh and should I try some other undervolting tricks, TDP limitations or bios settings to keep a decent performance while keeping the temps down and fans quiet?

 

MX-4 Dries (Dry out) very quickly. I applied it on the VRM and it dried (Dry out) within a month. GELID GC extreme works much longer.

 

Maybe I will replace the TIM on the CPU with a 3mm thermal pad..... I am concerned for your PC.... Thermal paste should not be applied on VRM components (Google for an explanation as to why). Also, the VRM (Voltage Regulation Module) is a combination of components. So to "apply it on the VRM" is the same as saying you frosted part of the motherboard with thermal paste.

I am not surprised it dried out being that it was likely exposed to air.

Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk

 

Yes you are right. But the fact is that if i put a thermal padding in that place, then my processor will not be in full contact with the heat sink. And I will have a big difference in the cores 10+ degrees. And possibly throttling.

Other users also said that the MX-4 dries quickly on the processor. The quality of this thermal paste and thermal conductivity is worse than that of the GELID GC extreme.

 

Take it for what its worth @Pureownuge69 but with a few of my other MSI laptops I have always repasted with Gelid Extreme and it has always worked great. Seems to last a good while and doesn't dry out quick and is a good combo of quality + results. Plus it is a thicker paste so seemed good for any uneven plates, etc. Wish i was more comfortable with Liquid Metal pasting myself because I am very pleased with the results of my GT63 that HIDevolution liquid metal repasted and they also replaced the thermal pads as well. I would LM my others too if i didn't think I would do more harm than good. lol

 

Thank you all for the input @Semmy and @captaincranium I will give GELID GC Extreme a go this time as opposed to the MX-4. Will be sure to provide an update and some screenshots when it is done. Although I am confident that I would be able to successfully apply liquid metal TIM (and coat the SMDs in a protective layer), I don't believe the risk is worth the return.

 

It's not really.
I did it and it was more of a hassle than it was worth.
Heatsink contact is not great, there's not a ton of pressure.
Temps improved but not by much. GPU still reached 90C while gaming. CPU still power-throttled and maintained a 3.6Ghz boost at 45W. (around 82-85C)
Maybe the fans were a bit quieter but didn't really notice it that much.

Undervolt, nice thicc paste, maybe repading to make sure everything is making the best possible contact. That's the way to go I think.
HIDEvolution's bottom cover with the fan cutouts also gave me a much appreciated boost in cooling potential. Now the GPS finally drops under 90C and gets to 87 ish tops. Big improvement there. Better temps and more boost for longer.
Can't say it's how the notebook was designed. Maybe the fans don't have cutouts for some other reason (airflow around SSD or other components) so pairing it with a cooling base is a good idea.

 

Hi @Agatio and welcome to the forum. Before I proceed with the explanation, please note that the removal of your laptop heat sink and reapplication of thermal interface material (TIM) is considered an advanced procedure by MSI and in a majority of cases results in your warranty being void. It is also worth noting that this may vary depending on the country. As such, I would advise getting in contact with your local MSI service center to confirm.

In regard to setting up and using an ESD mat and wristband, there is a variety of guides available that can be found with a quick Google Search. I have linked a few below for you:

Guide 1
Guide 2

I personally do not use an ESD wristband or ESD mat, but rather ESD knitted protection gloves.

Now onto the disassembly . I would advise researching the disassembly procedure for the GT62VR. Although it is not the same model, it has a very similar internal layout owing to it having a near identical chassis to the GT63 8RG. The linked guide is only for reference as to what can be expected. For more specific information, below is the order in which I disassembled mine.

1. Remove the base plate secured to the chassis by 6 screws.
2. Once the base plate is removed, disconnect the battery and remove it from the chassis, flip the laptop over and press the power button a couple of times. This will ensure that all components (e.g. capacitors) in the laptop are discharged.
   
3. Flip the laptop over again and proceed with removing both the CPU and GPU fan (each secured by 3 screws).
   
4. With both fans removed, you can then take out the RAM (if there is any installed in the exposed slots), M.2 NVMe SSD, and HDD. It is worth mentioning that you only really need to remove the HDD (adjacent to the battery) as it is secured (via 2 screws) to the mid-frame that will need to be removed next. I just remove all these components for piece of mind and I consider it to be best practice.
   
5. Now on to the mid-frame . Note that removing the mid-frame is not required to remove the heat-sink. It does however make it considerably easier to re-seat the heat-sink after application of new TIM. If you would rather not remove the mid frame, skip to step 7. If you wish to proceed, remove each of the screws as per the image below.
6. Gently, begin to separate the mid frame from the remaining case. Start from the back of the laptop (near the heat-sink exhaust ports) and work your way around the left hand side (with the sub woofer) to the front of the laptop and then eventually the right side. Be careful as the audio jacks on the right side can be a bit tricky.
7. Once you have removed the mid frame, you are now ready to remove the heat-sink. Begin loosening and removing the screws progressively, starting with the screws that are not numbered first. For the numbered screws, loosen them in descending numerical order (i.e. start with the screw labelled 4, then loosen 3, then 2 and then 1). I do one full rotation of the screw driver for each screw using this pattern until they are all removed (i.e. 4,3, 2, 1, 4, 3, 2, 1 etc.) This is just so the heat sink separates from the CPU and GPU dies with equal pressure.

The heat sink will likely not lift off easily and will be glued down by the factory installed TIM. As opposed to lifting directly up, I very gently rotate the heat sink a few degrees left and right to loosen the TIM up whilst pulling up gently. If you really struggle, get a hair dryer and apply some heat to the heat sink from a distance. Keep in mind that the increased movement of air can cause a build up of static electricity (you have been warned), but it can make the process significantly easier and aid with loosening up the TIM and thermal pads. I have used this method a few times and it has never cause me any issues. Better than ripping out some of the memory chips on your GPU

Hope this quick rough guide helps

 

Thanks for writing this. It would have been helpful if I wasn't so impatient that I already went in and did it with no instructions Well at least there will be more new people who are reading this and might want to do this operation.

The only differences I had in my process were that I forgot to press the power button after removing the battery. I remembered that it might have been a good thing to do after I was already done with everything. I got lucky and nothing broke, at least yet.

I was also able to replace the HDD to an SSD and remove the heatsink without removing the mid frame. I was trying to get it off and then noticed that I don't have to.

I think my temps went down about 5-10 degrees. I'm not entirely sure since my benchmarks before and after are not exactly the same.

 

No worries at all. I'm glad it went well for you. Yes, removal of the Midframe isn't a necessity, just makes it a little easier (and cleaner) when removing and re-seating the heatsink. Might add this as an aside note for any future readers.

The main thing is that you got it all back together successfully (and with some gains ) . Pressing the power button after disconnecting the power source has became a habit and saved me a few times (primarily when working on desktop power supplies or devices with exposed PSUs ). It is considered best practice when dismantling or working on any electronic device.

Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk

 

In addition to my last post, I forgot to add that it may be a good idea to clone the HDD to your SSD as opposed to just replacing it. The HDD installed from the factory has a recovery partition that enables you to install a fresh copy of the factory MSI Windows Image in the event you run into any issues.

If you decided to clone, I would highly recommend EaseUS Todo Backup (Home). It is a relatively cheap and renouned solution, offering a variety of great features and functionality.

Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk

 

I'll try to remember that next time, and if I'll ever need to recover the Windows, I could always just put the original HDD back in for that.

One thing I'm wondering is that was it a good idea to tighten both heatsinks screws as tight as possible? Can they break anything like that or should I loosen them just a bit?

 

It is never a good idea to over tighten screws on anything. You may have noticed when disassembling the laptop that the screws where not torqued exceedingly tight, and required only moderate force to remove them (by hand). It can be difficult to gauge, but I usually torque screws till the point only moderate force is required to remove them again. If you over tighten, you can strip the threads, the screw head or worse (this has happened to me personally) shear the screw head off entirely.

You will have noticed a substance on the screws that resembles blue paint. This is Nylok threadlocker. Its intended purpose is to prevent screws from gradually loosening over time from vibrations etc, whilst still allowing for the removal of screws moderately torqued by hand. So there is no need to excessively tighten. Once it feels secure and tight by hand, tighten no further

Being an ingrained fear, I have replaced the standard Black Zinc Laptop Machine Screws (M2 X 4MM) (Wafer Head) on my GT63 8RG with superior stainless steel (316 Grade) pan head alternatives (GPU). See screws circled in the image below

 

Thanks for the info again. I opened it again and made the screws "fingertight", but the GPU screws were quite tight even originally, and now the screw heads are almost not usable anymore.

I had a great idea of slapping a few thermal pads on top of the CPU heatsink, and when I tried the temps in Furmark + its CPU burner, the CPU stayed at 96 which is not good. I opened the laptop again and took them off. Now the temps stay at max 89 on those, and don't climb so quickly

 

@Falkentyne I currently have my CPU under-volted (Throttlestop) by -135mv. I have been doing a bit of reading on Load Line configuration (still not confident in its use) and am wondering what the advantages are for using it. Can you explain how it is done and what the benefits are or point me to another resource that may be of assistance?

Thanks

 

Hi Guys,

Finally got a brand new DIMM for my GT63 (Samsung m471a2k43cb1-ctd).
Fitted on Socket 3 (BIOS reports as slot 4 btw) and it is just perfect. Dual Channel working and a noticeable change on the overall system performance.

Cheers

 

I have the same situation : Socket 3 = BIOS slot 4, Soket 4 = BIOS slot 2. You can install the RAM on either one of it and the result is just the same.

There is 1 issue actually happening on me. The right side of the touchpad gets warm very soon and a bit hot even I don't have a game running. Is it normal ?

 

Yes, it is normal

 

It might sound stupid...what is this chip ?
I have never used any gaming laptop before and this MSI GT63 is my very first one .

 

It’s the PCH. Chipset, if I’m not mistaken

 

Anyone could provide serial number of fans that are used in GT63 titan?

I wonder if they're different than fans from GT62.

 

no, no different. still 4 pin

 

They are indeed different. Despite the fans appearing to be near identical aesthetically, there are differences in their operation and performance characteristics. The fans in the GT62VR are of an earlier (unreliable) revision. They could achieve rotational speeds in excess of 4500 RPM, whereas those in the GT63 Titan max out at approximately 3850RPM. I have reviewed a few modding forums and participants mentioned swapping their GT63 fans out with those found in the GT62VR. The result was a considerably noisier, yet relatively cooler running laptop (-8 Degrees C). The only issue with this being that the fans would only last 12 months before burning out. The difference is likely in the micro-controller programming on the fan PCB.

 

Temperature difference is resultant from a combination of the PCIe SSD and Intel PCH as someone mentioned above. The PCIe SSD has a realtively thick thermal pad extracting heat into the motherboard and by extension top case. My measurements at the same point under sustained load with an infrared thermometer (i.e. in Battlefield 1) are near 38 degrees C. Definitely warm to the touch.

Further to the above, I have been experimenting with GELID GP Extreme Thermal Pads and GC Extreme TIM. Have achieved some awesome results nearing those of liquid metal (relative to the quality of the application job). Will post my conclusions soon

 

I had several different fans on GT62, from old and new parties, and not one of them could not overcome 4000 rpm, most often 3890 - 3900.

 

Interesting. Thanks for posting. I myself have not tried. I attributed the reported higher rotational speed to the failure rate. The internet is plagued with reports of fans on the GT62VR failing. But that could have been firmware (EC) related.

 

Yes, there really were a lot of problems with dying fans. Dying fan chip.

 

The original one is a 256GB Samsung MZVLB256HAHQ. In that case should I replace this SSD to lower the temperature?
I have an extra 512GB Samsung 970PRO dusting on shelf.

 

Too bad, MSI could finally push for some reliable FAN-s for their top 15 inch machine.

It is frustrating that stupid fans ruining this laptop overall feel. Maybe they will change something with RTX generation refresh.

MSI replaced fans in my laptop for new ones - but well. They're still making this rumbling noise, no matter how slow they spin - though it is quieter than it was before. But still kinda sucks.

 

I have two audio related questions today.

-I get pretty low volume when using headphones. They are a regular 35Ohm pair so nothing special. However I need to be at around 90volume to hear nicely. And even that is not that loud. Any way of boosting this?

-Which of the 3.5mm audio ports do you guys use to plug in headphones? My headset has a built in mic but has a single plug (it has 4 sections, like this) any chance of getting the mic working in the GT63? I can't find the option.

Think the volume has to do with the fact its a 4 section jack connector? I'll try a different pair of headphones when I can

 

I doubt you will see much improvement in terms of thermals. I believe that the Samsung 970 PRO would perform better and possibly manage thermals marginally better than the OEM Samsung PCIe SSD. Tried finding a comprehensive specification sheet for the OEM model, but had no luck.

I believe you should not be concerned, it is expected that this area will be warm. Simply means the thermal pad is effectively extracting heat into the main board. Just review the SSD temps in HWMonitor. Should be between 50 - 65 Degrees Celsius at Idle (relative to ambient temperature and load).

 

The headphone jack is the first AUX port closest to you (front of the laptop). To diagnose what is happening, open the Realtek Audio Console (comes preinstalled) and review the input information on the bottom left of the application window. When the console app first opens (assuming headphones have been detected) you will be presented with configuration options i.e. power output, impedance configuration. This is the best place to start.

 

There must be something wrong then. The port closest to me doesn't work as a headphone jack. I even bought an adapter from 3.5mm 4 pin to 2x3.5mm 3 pin to separate the audio and mic channels but it still doesn't work. Just shows up as this on Realtek Audio Console:



Other ports usually show "Microphone" or "Line in" when something's connected but when I connect my headphone to this jack nothing appears and the sound just keeps coming out of the built in speakers.

This is weird behaviour as it was working fine before. I think this started when I last formated Windows. I tried reinstalling the audio drivers, reinstalling nahimic and realtek audio console to no avail...

*EDIT - Uninstalling the Realtek Audio Console fixed it

 

Glad you managed to get it working. I can also recall odd behavior with the Realtek Audio Console on my laptop (hence I suggested checking it out). I Uninstalled and reinstalled the latest audio drivers from the MSI website and managed to get everything working correctly.



Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk

 

For anyone experiencing issues with CPU core temperature differentials, I have found a solution that reduces the temperature differential between cores to a maximum of 2 - 3 Degrees (Celsius) under heavy sustained load (Prime95). It has taken quite a bit of time, testing and evaluation to determine the solutions effectiveness and longevity. It requires no physical modifications, i.e. heat sink lapping (which would actually cause more harm than good) etc.

The CPU core temperature differentials are resultant from insufficient tension and an uneven distribution of downward force on the CPU portion of the heat sink. The cause being incorrect TIM/Pads (thickness and hardness) being used on the adjacent VRM (Voltage Regulation Module) components from factory. To correct the issue, I recommend replacing the stock thermal pads with the alternatives listed below:

K5 Pro | >5.3 w/mk Thermal Conductivity | Viscous "Gummy" | Non-Electrically Conductive | Maintains structure during operation at temperatures < 250 Degrees (Celsius) | Long (marketed as near infinite...) service life
Arctic Thermal Pad 0.5mm | 6 w/mk Thermal Conductivity | Non-Electrically Conductive or capacitive | 25 Shore 00 Hardness (Soft and Highly Compressible)

As per the attached image (would not let me insert the image), apply a moderate amount of K5 Pro to each of the choke coil inductors adjacent the CPU and a 0.5mm Arctic Thermal Pad on the MOSFETs.

Keep in mind that the K5 Pro will be compressed to < 0.5mm on the choke nearest the top of the image, so there is no need to apply a ridiculous amount.

Hardness of the TIM used is critical to ensuring contact is made with each component. Unfortunately, the rubber block that presses against the bottom lid only complicates matters as it is merely applying force on the top right portion of the heat sink. The result being a gap that varies (when using K5 Pro on the Chokes) from 0.4mm (beneath the rubber block) to 0.6mm further down.

Will post up some benchmarks and temperatures when I get home from work Ran out of time last night at 2AM

 

That's cool. Liquid thermal pads is a very good solution. I said even earlier that the stock thermal pads cause uneven contact of the processor. It would be nice to see visual instructions and more photos

 

Further to my previous post, just added some more images

@Semmy, regarding application, I would recommend using a TIM application tool/spreader due to the gummy consistency of K5 Pro. Prior to applying the K5 Pro to the chokes, be sure to clean the surface using either Isopropyl Alcohol or something like Articlean (Stage 2). Obviously allow the alcohol or Articlean solution to dry prior to application. To be sure, I always gently wipe the surface using a lint free microfiber cloth.

For visual instruction, did you mean the entire process of replacing TIM from start to finish i.e. inclusive of disassembly ?

If you have any specific questions, please do not hesitate to ask

 

How about tests and temperature monitoring

 

Will post the results for you shortly have just been away for work and arrive home in in two days. Once I am home I will run a few tests and post the results/screenshots.

Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk

 

Well, I think we are out of luck in terms of upgrading from a GTX 1080 to an RTX 2080 easily in the GT63 8RG

Below is an image of the GT63 8SX revised heat sink.



Either they have changed the GPU orientation, or the new MXM module is considerably different in terms of dimensions and component layout. I am willing to wager that it is the latter.

Would be interesting to see the difference in heat dissipation capability on this revised heat sink in contrast to that of the 8RG. One less heat pipe when compared with the 8RG, but the heat is now being distributed more uniformly across the GPU portion of the heat sink.

 

@Semmy,

As promised, I have some test results for you.

Ambient room temperature was approximately 27 Degrees Celsius when the tests where conducted. Both my CPU and GPU have been undervolted.

• CPU @ -120mv
  
• GPU @ 0.943v - Core Clock 1860 Mhz | Memory Clock 5150 Mhz

As for the tests, I conducted the CPU stress tests using a combination of the Blended and Large FFT torture tests in Prime 95. For a combined test (i.e. GPU+CPU) I loaded up Battlefield 1 (multiplayer) and played for 30 minutes with the following configuration:

• Graphics Settings: Ultra
• Resolution: 2,560 x 1,440 (1440p)
• Refresh Rate Cap: 144hz (FPS)

BF1_ULTRA_1440P-144hz_30mins_GPU

BF1_ULTRA_1440P-144hz_30mins_CPU

In_Place_Large_FFT_Prime95_Run2

Blended_Prime95

In_Place_Large_FFT_Prime95

 

Do you have the TDP unlock activated?
For how long are you able to have sustained 3.9Ghz on the 6 cores when CPU stress test is running?