*** The Official MSI GT63 TITAN Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

Welcome aboard!

 

I've got a problem.

Today during gaming laptop hybernated and doesn't react on power button.

I tried to start - no reaction, disconnected the power supply - no reaction, pressed battery reset - no reaction.

Only 12 days from purchase. Still have 2 days to return and get a money back.

MSI GT63 8RG

 

Hi there, can you see any indicator lights on the front of the laptop when attempting to power it on?

Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk

 

Hi. No, nothing

 

You mentioned that it went into "hibernation" whilst in use. Can you provide some aditional description regarding how the unit shutdown. Was it an instantaneous shutdown or immediate? Did the power indicator shut off immediately in conjunction with a black screen or did it take some time?

Regardless of any troubleshooting conducted after the fact. A random shutdown whilst in use and an inability to restart to me seems like a hardware failure (less likely a software issue). For such an expensive laptop, I would be sending it back (especially being only 12 days old). Often if electronics fail (from personal experience), they tend to do so within the first couple of weeks (use).


Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk

 

Check the EC Reset hole at the bottom left corner and try pressing it a few times.
I know someone who broke their laptop so it wouldn't power on, because he jammed something into the button and made it permanently pressed (this could have been temporarily fixed by desoldering the button to remove the ground, but still...)

The fact that you get NO power at all to anything seems to point to something failing around here. If the EC reset button is pressed in (and then released normally) and the laptop is not plugged into AC power, it will not turn on at all.
Also if the EC button is shorted (active), it also won't turn on even when on AC power.

Note: the EC reset button doesn't exactly reset the EC. All it does is electrically disconnect the battery from supplying any sort of standby power to the laptop (the EC RAM registers remain powered from the standby power). Physically removing the battery does the exact same identical thing.

 

Good morning.

Yes, during playing NBA 2k19 game its nibernated. No massages, no sound, no blue screen. Just stopped.

While trying to start - there is no indication on a laptop. The adapter has a green light indicator (as normal).

I've read official MSI forum and the same issue happened, when GPU died.

Will see on Monday.

 

I tried to press this button. In various situations, such as with cable connected and without. Pressing before power button, after, with power button, etc. No reaction at all

 

UPD.

Today brought my laptop to Service Centre. Explained the problem. The technician opened a laptop, switched on....and it started. Miracle.... I tested all I could test - it was working.

But.

I brought my laptop at home and it switched on. Played some game measure FPS and loads - all OK. Then I worked around 30 minute and switched off.

After an hour pressing the power button - no reaction. Same as before.

Finally brought it back to service Centre and looks like they will replace with a new one.

But... I am not sure qny more that the next laptop will be MSI

 

RMA the laptop for sure.
Do you know what the technician pressed?
There is a hidden button (at least on the dual MXM slot Titan series that can accept 2x1070 SLI's or 1x1070 or 1x1080), close to the slave MXM slot. No one I know of has ever pressed that button, but Khenglish thinks it's an internal power button override (for servicing the laptop without access to the front case button), although again no one has tested it. And of course there are no mainboard schematics either. Would be nice to know exactly what he did.

 

From what you described, it could have been a mainboard issue anyway since that's the major component that is responsible for everything, including power on and off.

 

He just pressed a power button. And it switched on. Nothing special. I surprised when I saw that.

 

May be.
For me the most interesting thing - what is that?

I mean either it is just a factory defect or it is a defect of the chassi. I heard that developing of chassi for GT63 was not so great. I was told my MSI technical manager in Russian main branch office that simply they took a GT62's chassi, modernized it for Coffee lakes and released.

I don't know now do I want GT63 again. That's a problem

 

I guess just not lucky, but hopefully they fix you nicely. MSI uses each chassis design for at least 2 generations before they create another new design (similar to what car makers are doing). Also, mainboard spec needs to be similar in order for them to revise the board design slightly to add support for coffee lake since the chipset is slightly larger, otherwise we are looking at a major revision of chassis design again.

 

F.... them. I've already requested to provide me with another laptop, new one

 

What was their response on your request? Because they don't replace laptops unless multiple repairs have already been attempted.

 

By the law in Russia if the problem appeared withing 15 days from purchase I can:

1. Request a money back
2. Replace by the new one
3. Request repairment.

Ive chosen the 2nd option

 

I see, so then it's DOA, which is the same in the US but customers typically go through the point of purchase for a swap.

 

Where did you buy yours from my fellow tuga?
Wondering if that's the same module as in the 8RG-067XPT sold by PCDiga.

Are you still happy with the GT63? Did you end up repasting?
Also, can you link those BIOS tweaks you were talking about?

Sorry for the many many questions

Obrigado!

 

Olá Shark00n,

I didn't buy it. It was sent by MSI Support Portugal after BD Prochot RMA for my old GT72VR 7RE. MSI assumed that they had no solution for the BD Prochot problem and proposed the MSI GT63 Titan 8RG 024-PT.

I am not aware that this specific model is being sold in Portugal yet.

I am very happy with the laptop. Just has a small "problem": has just 1 installed DIMM.

These tweaks were taken from the GT75 thread and worked pretty well, but I do not recommend you to perform these tweaks without proper repasting. Mine is still full stock. No repaste done yet. I am waiting for a confirmation from MSI support regarding Channel 1 and channel 2 slots so I can decide if I will buy 1 RAM module or a pair of modules.
Then I will add more RAM and do the repaste with Gelid GC Extreme.

No worries. I will help as long as I know how to help you.

Abraço!

 

Cool.
I went and got one today. Was looking for a powerful little beast with great cooling Got the one from the PCDiga promo at 2k€ for the 8750H, GTX1080, 16GBx1 and 256GB nvme.

Are you interested in my 16GB module? Have yet to verify if it's the same samsung as yours but it should be. I only need 16GB but can't forego dual-channel so I'd be better off with a 2x8 kit than springing a lot more euros on a 16gb stick. PM me if you want.

I have to upgrade the SSD, shame it only has the one M.2 slot. It's a hassle.

I'll repaste it too. Did you find Gelid Extreme for sale anywhere in PT by the way? I have kryonaut but might want to try something new.
Let's see how it handles good regular paste before getting the conductonaut out

 

Be aware that the module that comes from the factory with this laptop is located under the keyboard.

This means that you will have to do a board flip to access to it and it voids your warranty.

If that's not a problem for you, please tell me and I might get your module if it is the same brand and model. I am waiting for msi to confirm if dual channel requires board flip or not.

Cheers

 

Why would it void my warranty if I'm trying to change the RAM. Doesn't make much sense.
Their "WARRANTY SEAL" doesn't make much sense either.

Are there more seals, like on screws or something, preventing the mb flip?

 

Don't know. Didn't open the laptop yet.
I understand your point. I am just sharing what I've been told about.

But by the serial number they know the original specification of the laptop and of course if more ram is added that is not visible on the easy access ram slots, then there is no doubt about what was done.

From what I got from msi Portugal support, you are authorized to break the warranty seal for cleaning, repaste and add more ram.
I shared all the details on the previous page if not mistaken.

Honestly, better to be like this than nothing like happens on other countries...

Cheers

 

Still I think they can't deny warranty.
Warranty is on the system. Not the particular flavour of RAM installed.
Unless you blow something up by cramming in the completely wrong memory I don't think they can deny you warranty. Same applies if you switch out the stock 256GB nvme drive... They can deny warranty if your new drive fails, of course, it wasn't bought with the system. But they have to fix it if the fault is somewhere else.

Maybe I'm wrong. Haven't dealt with MSI in a long time.

But yeah I know they can be a pain. But I can be a pain too.

 

The warranty void if removed does NOT apply in North America.
Just don't break anything or then the warranty will be void

 

Don't worry about it, just break it and get it done.

 

I’m not too worried. Damn if I’ll keep it with 256gb ssd and a single 16gb stick! Already sourced the replacement parts

I have the same question as JNogueira: in order to have the RAM in dual channel mode they have to be assembled right next to each-other, right? So I’d need to flip the board and install the new stick on DIMM_2 instead of just opening it and installing the second stick on DIMM_3.

I’ve googled a bunch, only found a reference about it in MSI’s GT72 forum thread, but they don’t seem very sure about it.

 

Yup, you need to populate each bank fully.

 

I thought i read a post by Pureownuge69 a few pages back that if you go with the standard 16GB one stick "standard" module that ships with the system on the non visible side, if you wanted to pop in a 16GB module later, if installed in slot "3" which is on the accessible side of the motherboard when you take off the back panel, would make it dual channel?? So basically slots 1 (which is factory installed) and then slot 3 that you have access too without flipping the board.

Unless I am reading this wrong by Ken at GenTechPC?...please someone confirm this exact question because that is an important note for those of use that just stuck with the factory 16gb mem module with plans to add in another 16gb unit in the slot 3 spot for dual channel later.

Thank you!

@Donald@HIDevolution can you confirm this or set it straight? @Kevin@GenTechPC? @ Pureownuge69 @ Michael Nero @ JNogueira Thanks guys!

 

You can't mix modules so make sure to use identical frequency and timing (preferably same brand and model). And if you aren't populating both banks then you will need to do 1 module per bank on each side.

 

So for a 32gb (16x2) setup one should just get an identical RAM module and mount it on the available slot 3. No need to flip motherboards unless doing a 4 module setup right?

 

That is what I am trying to clarify too...so if me and @Shark00n matched and purchased after the fact an identical RAM module and stuck it in slot 3, we would get dual channel correct? Without needing to flip the board...i won't need more that 32GB on this so hoping that is the case....

 

I'll, maybe, be able to answer this tonight

 

If you only have 2 modules, then you need populate one module per side so you do need to flip the board to get it done.

 

The machine I purchased has one module installed. It's on the reverse side of the mobo. Can't access it via the plastic cover. Have to remove and flip the mobo to see DIMM_1 and DIMM_2 and check what kind of module I have installed.
I bought an identical module and I'm going to try it on DIMM_3, on the easily accessible side of the mobo.
So, if I understood what you meant, in this case we don't have to flip the mobo because the stock (and only) module is already installed on the other side.

BTW the 256GB M.2 NVMe SSD that came from the factory is a Samsung PM961, in my case.

 

That should be right @Shark00n , from what i understand the factory module is installed on the non accessible side and from all the photos i have seen on the "reviews" show slot bank 3 & 4 empty from factory on the accessible side. I don't have my unit yet from HIDevolution and they are liquid metal repasting for me so I don't really want to mess with the motherboard ever again once i get it. lol Donald@HIDevolution is checking on this for me right now too and is trying to verify our question on mem slot 3 and dual channel. If you verify Shark00n let me know and/or i will post once I hear from Donald if before then or he just might post here and confirm this himself.

 

Yup, and you can use CPU-Z to check SPD info on the memory module if you want to get another module with identical specification.

 

Thank you too @Kevin@GenTechPC!

 

You're most welcome.

 

What you need to do is when you get the other 16 GB Dimm, install it in the "matching" slot of the next bank and then check HWinfo64 and CPU-Z to see if the RAM is working in dual channel or not.
Do that before you bother disassembling the motherboard. For example, if the original RAM is installed in slot 1 of bank "A", then you install the new RAM in slot 1 of bank "B" (not slot 2 of bank B) and see if it functions in dual channel or not.

I've heard different things about dual channel operation in desktops. Some say each RAM has to be installed in a different bank if using 2 sticks, while others say both sticks have to be in the same bank.

 

I have 2 X 16GB Samsung modules running in dual channel (slots 1 and 4). Board flip is not necessary. See the attached screenshots for further information.

Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk

 

Nice! The pictures do have some interesting touch to them.

 

Taken with Microsoft Office Lens from my phone Not the best quality, but readable.

Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk

 

I also installed my second stick of 16GB and it's working in dual channel.

BIOS says there's modules installed in memory slots 1 and 4. But I installed the RAM physically in "SOCKET 3" ( as demonstrated here). I'm not familiar with this kind of sorcery...

Another thing is I jumped the gun and got a 16GB module of Samsung DDR4 trusting my config would have the same but turns out my particular unit has SK Hynix memory. Got a great deal on a craigslist equivalent.
They are identical spec for spec and seem to be working great. Any ideas on how to test this before it blows up in my face?

Before installing the second dimm HWInfo was able to tell me the exact model installed. But after I only get this:



Everything looks normal I think. No crashes or instability yet.


Also swaped out the 256GB drive for a 1TB. It's only a SATA but that's the downside of having only one M.2 slot. I need the space and also kept costs down.
The chassis seems to be ready to get a second slot. There's a perfect spot for it right alonside the other. Also the fatest thermal pad I've ever seen.
https://i.imgur.com/BmpiEVD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ruzlFXN.jpg



Some more pictures
https://i.imgur.com/X2LUmKr.jpg?1

With a Dell Inspiron 7000
https://i.imgur.com/xM3X0p2.jpg

Heatpipes!
https://i.imgur.com/78JU3r0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/LsjNYk4.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/H8DdK0D.jpg

 

Nice! Yes I noticed that on my mobo slot 4 is actually labelled as slot 3... Misprint maybe?

I don't believe running memory from a different manufacturer will cause any issues, provided it is running with the same timings, voltage, latency (CAS) and is unbuffered. I have seen from personal experience that mismatched sticks do not always run in dual channel though. In your case all seems to be fine.

I generally run MemTest 86 to verify that there are no issues with reliability or stability.

Nice upgrade. I replaced the 2.5" SATA factory HDD with a Samsung 860EVO 1TB (same capacity just much better performance).

Out of curiosity, how are your CPU core temps when under load?

Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk

 

I'll run some tests soon. Still on stock paste to see how it handles from the factory. Will test stock paste, stock paste + uv, kryonaut, kryonaut + uv

 

Testing different sticks of the same timings is painful.
Memtest86+ often won't pick up problems if the system actually boots to windows and is stable.
The best way to test this is to set Nmode (Command Rate) to 1T instead of 2T and boot to windows and test it.
If it's stable, then force a RAM CMOS Clear by holding down the power button for 60 seconds.
then wait 2 minutes for the laptop to start boot looping with the MSI logo a few times, and then it resets your RAM settings and gets back to windows.

If that works, then set it back to 1T again reset the CMOS again the same way, and see if it ever 'fails' to reset (e.g. infinite black screen, or the power light just goes off and on after 60 seconds then stays on forever).

If you can do five consecutive CMOS clears via the power button successfully without getting into a 'frozen' power on LED, then you should be fine.
However you may have some problems if you go up to 4 sticks of mismatched RAM. That's where the problems begin. Sometimes just with *ONE* slot causing failures to POST, boot, BSOD's or RAM training fails).

 

How exactly do you go about modifying the command rate in a locked down factory BIOS? In addition, the factory installed modules (according to the data sheet for my Samsung modules similar to that of the Hynix modules) would likely have issues running with a 1T command rate irrespective of running mismatched modules.

The best practice would be to use and test the system in a normal operating environment. Changing the command rate is not necessary. Any issues will eventually manifest during normal use.

Changing the command rate is counter productive in evaluating stability. You are reducing the number of consecutive clock cycles that commands need to be presented to the memory modules. You are essentially testing the electrical capacitance of the IMC (Integrated Memory Controller), the address circuitry and command bus, reducing the amount of time/clock cycles in which a 1 (positive charge) can be switched to 0 (absence of electrical charge) in memory. Once the transition is no longer discernible by the IMC, the PC will lock up or fail to boot.

I would just use it normally and see if you run into issues. This is just my thoughts.

Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk

 

Hey Guys,

I have been running some stress tests on my CPU and my core temps are concerning me. Some cores are running in excess of 10 degrees hotter than others. I suspect that my heat sink is warped somewhat. I have attached a screenshot highlighting some of the maximum temps on some cores (after running Prime95). Can anyone check this against their system. What is the general consensus regarding expected spread.