*** The Official MSI GT63 TITAN Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

Yea I’m thinking about getting the GT75. It has a better cooling system I’m told. IBUYPOWER is cheapest plus for 40 bucks they repaste it with kryonaught grizzly before they ship it to me. It would be my first MSI. I’m not educated on their warranty. Are they good with customer service? Are their products top end? One thing that makes no sense, from what I heard, they void the warranty when you open up the laptop. What’s the point in having m.2 SSD slots if i can’t install them?

 

This is my first MSI as well, so I don’t have any experience with their customer service. I purchased mine from HIDevolution, and I can tell you that their customer service is phenomenal.

 

I have the GT63 Titan-048. Anyone having issues with the HDMI audio not working? After I plug in an HDMI cable I have to reboot to get the TV output as an audio choice. If I unplug and then plug the HDMI back in, I have to reboot again because the output goes away. I tried a fresh install of the NVIDIA and Realtek drivers.

 

Hi guys,

Just got one GT63 Titan 8RG from MSI directly as a result of a GT72VR RMA.
Answering to @adoublearonn, I tested the HDMI port several times and zero problems, but I had to set the audio output default unit to HDMI on the audio panel. This solved the problem.
Now I will have HDMI as default audio and video output whenever I plugin the cable and reverts back by default to the laptop speakers when unplugged.

Regarding performance I am extremely satisfied with the jump from i7 7700HQ + GTX1070 to i7 8750h + GTX1080. It is a world of difference, specially after BIOS tune-up as suggested on GT75 thread by Falkentyne.

cinebench r15 cpu test gave me 1218. What is the result that you get on your laptops?

Regarding temperatures, CPU full load for 1 hour, never crossed 85ºC and the medium temperatures are around 75ºC with cooler boost enabled. After repasting, this will improve for sure.

I am happy with this laptop considering that it is significantly smaller when compared to GT75.

Cheers all

 

What are your GPU temps when gaming?

 

I will have time this weekend to test that extensively with AC: Origins and some less heavy other games.

I will share the results during the WE

 

Here is a quick test with AC: Origins. I will do more over the weekend. Ambient temperature 27ºC

 

In your next test try using hwinfo64 stats instead HWMonitor.

 

More 10 minutes of gaming.

 

How much is your cpu undervolt?

 

My bios is already tweaked, but before that, I was able to have -150mV. -155mV is already showing instability.

 

Hmm, temps seem pretty high for using max 30W-ish on CPU and 140W-ish on GPU, which are both quite low. AC Origins isn't very heavy I guess.

You did IA AC/DC Loadline = 1 in BIOS, right? What thermal paste is applied?

 

I did the tdp unlock trick, but reverted back due to temperature issues.
No repaste done yet.

 

You need to change the loadline values as well, otherwise the CPU gets overvolted under load. That's probably why you have temperature issues

 

I did that as well.
Here is what I changed:
IMON SLOPE: 50
IMON Offset: 31999
IMON Prefix: -
AC Loadline: 1
DC Loadline: 1

TDC Enable: Disabled
TDC Current limit: 0
VR Current limit: 800 (divided by 4 = 200 amps)

This was done after uninstalling dragon center and restoring bios defaults.

Had temperature issues running simultaneous CPU+GPU stress tests.

 

I see.

Were you already using max fans?

 

Of course

 

You probably have to repaste.
Tiny BGAbooks + convex heatsinks + Lairdtech paste are not good for temps....

 

Indeed.
I think I will stay away from LM for now as my nb "travels" quite often.

I saw your thermal paste recommendations on other threads as well, so it is just a matter of time to repaste.

I think I will repaste when I open it to add 2 ram modules

 

No problems with LM as long as you *Lightly* sand the heatsink fully flat (sand as little as possible, but use a proper decent sanding kit like a Preppin weapon sanding block; you'll have to remove the heatsink C-clips of the screws to get the screws out first), then apply 0.5mm thermal pads (Arctic works the best) on the CPU VRM's and CPU chokes, then use Super 33+tape to insulate the CPU packaging, and a very very thin and compressible foam dam (best results is if the foam dam is cut and trimmed to 0.3mm thickness (very hard to do) and then applied; the foam dam MUST be extremely light and compressible and NOT dense. No problems traveling with my laptop on a bicycle this way. Just avoid sudden shocks and use a high quality backpack like an Everki Titan.

 

The latest BIOS update released two days ago fixed the audio switch issue for me! It was mentioned in the changelog vaguely.

 

Yep! I tested and it is working indeed

 

Hi All,

One question for those that already opened this laptop:
According to this image that was shared on this thread, the RAM slots 3 and 4 are those accessible without board flip:


Normally Dual channel is done by Slot 1 + Slot 3 and by Slot 2 + Slot 4.
Can you please confirm if this is the case? If this is the case, I may only buy a DIMM module that is matching the one that is already installed on my GT63 and put it on slot 3.

Thanks in advance.

 

May be the owners of GT 63 can help me.
I've bought that devise yesterday.
All OK, except Nahimic app. It doesn't work.

I downloaded audio driver from MSI website, but it keep cycling install with reboot. After 10 cycles I understood that smth wrong and aborted the installation.

Then the sound disappeared. I deleted the driver and Windows installed appropriate driver automatically. I have the sound but still Hahimic doesn't work. I deleted Hahinic app and tried to install from different source. Nahimic 3 from Windows Store installed but can't launch. Reports to inappropriate driver. Nahimic 2.5.x versions couldn't even install - reports to non capability.

Did anybody have the same issue?

 

Yes and I was able to solve this issue by upgrading BIOS (check out the latest BIOS specifically released to address audio issues according to the release notes).
Then download and install the Audio driver from MST GT63 Titan 8RG portal (if this is your machine), and install it normally.

Hope it helps

 

Oh, thanks, the problem was solved.

 

Hi,

Yes, this is indeed the case. I have a second 16GB module installed in SODIMM slot 3 and it is currently running in dual channel. For reference, the other 16GB module located on the top side of the motherboard (beneath the keyboard) is in slot 1.

I completed the same upgrade you are contemplating (Well actually MSI was obliged to install an additional module free of charge due to an advertising error on their behalf).

 

Ok perfect! excellent news.

One last query from my side:
If you go to the bios and check the system information, can you confirm that the ram channel is not flex mode, but dual?

I am asking this because sometimes cpu-z reports dual channel but the system is in fact running in flex mode instead.

Many thanks

 

No worries at all , I can certainly confirm that my modules are running in dual channel mode and not flex mode. I have checked this with both CPU-Z and HWInfo. I unfortunately could not find any information regarding the current memory mode within the BIOS (beyond my current configuration, i.e. slots populated).

I do not believe that flex mode would be possible for my configuration as I have modules of identical capacity etc. Intel Flex mode effectively allows for a combination of dual and single channel zones across the memory map. It would come into effect if I had the following configuration (1 16GB module + 1 8GB module). In this configuration, 8GB from module 1 and 8GB from module 2 would be running in Dual Channel, and the remaining 8GB from module 1 would be running in single channel mode.

My benchmark scores are also a sufficient indicator that my memory is indeed running in dual channel (see stats beneath memory kit). Hope this helps

 

Ok perfect! Thanks for this information once again. This is all I needed to have 100% sure.

Cheers!

 

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Anyone interested...Please feel free to email me at [email protected] or email me your phone number and I can call you between 4:00 PM and 1:00 AM GMT (9 AM and 6 PM PDT) - Monday through Friday.

I have 5 sets...first come, first serve.

 

I posted this picture... I didn't make any changes to the memory. My BIOS shows 16GB in slot 1 and 3 but does not say whether it is dual or flex. Interesting, maybe the labeling on the MB is off?

 

I've queried MSI about this.
This will be the difference of trying to find an identical dimm for the printed label of slot 3 for dual channel, or buying 2x 16GBs for flex mode, ending up with 48GBs.

I will share once I have something.

 

Just a question regarding repaste....i can currently get the MSI GT63 1080 Titan at my local Microcenter for $2399 on sale. I have repasted my CPU and GPU's in my past MSI lappys with Gelid Extreme. I am not confident enough to try Liquid Metal for the first time on this laptop so in your opinions, if I repasted stock paste with Gelid Extreme should that be fine for temps? I would order from HIDEvolution and have them do the Liquid Metal but that $2399 and being able to pick it up immediately and then repasting with Gelid Extreme is temping. Would save me a couple hundred of dollars too. Another question for my future reference, if liquid metal repasting, do you need to check on it and repaste it again in the future? or once you liquid paste, should you never take the heat sinks back off it and your good to go for the foreseeable future?

 

If the thermals really bother you - do it. Bit also remember, that repasting will erase your warranty from MSI. Do it after warranty or in authorized service center by MSI

 

Not in Portugal. I have an email from MSI local office saying clearly that I can break warranty sticker to add more ram and for repaste. But they do not allow changing thermal pads without voiding warranty.
But this might depend on each country policy.

 

Thanks for your reply! I always repaste from stock on my MSI lappys and you can open up the MSI and not void the warranty...anyway i guess my question for those that have it, etc is the liquid metal and $200+ more cost from HIDevolution worth it when i can get it at Microcenter for about $300 less and repaste it myself with Gelid Extreme for temps. Does this lappy absolutely NEED liquid metal or can i get away with Gelid? Also was curious if you ever need to repaste a Liquid Metal past job after you do it. Thanks again!

 

Liquid metal repaste requires several things to go your way.
First, it requires a flat heatsink. MSI heatsinks are notoriously convex, which tends to cause problems with cores #0, #2 and #4 being hotter than cores 1, 3 and 5 (those cores are the ones closest to the CPU VRM's, and the convex heatsink plus the heatsink also having thermal pads cooling the VRM's in addition to that, causes a severe lack of pressure on that side.

That issue can be partially mitigated by using thermal pads of half thickness from the stock pads (e.g. going from 1mm to 0.5mm) on the CPU VRMs and CPU chokes. This in no way compromises the laptop. Even after doing this, you may wind up with great temps at first (core temps <2C delta) and then very slowly see 1 core start eventually rising, so it turns out to about 6C, which is enough to trigger OCD in anyone who has it.

The surefire fix to this is to use 0.5mm pads *AND* sand fully flat, about 0.1mm off the heatsink maximum (its always better to do too little than too much), but this requires experience and I'm not here to teach people how to possibly damage their heatsinks. Only explaining the problem.

I do not know how HIDevolution manages to stop this issue from happening. But their method is time tested. But playing devil's advocate, how many people here care about running prime95 on their taptops and checking for core temp deltas over time, besides me and @Ivan994 ? .....uh......

After the heatsink and thermal pad reworks are done, then it's recommended to use Super 33+ tape around the CPU housing to fully cover it (leave about 1mm of space between the BGA slug and the tape however). This will help not only protect the exposed things around the green housing from random drops of LM, but this also helps lower the gap (about 1mm of height) from the housing to the BGA upraised chip, which helps Oxygen to be blocked from getting in easily (this helps prevent oxidation on any parts with weak contact). If you intend to carry the laptop around in a backpack or on your bicycle, then you should have a very thin and lightly (no resistance) dense cutout "foam dam" to act as an extra barrier to permanently trap any LM that happens to run off the core. This is free insurance and 100% guaranteed to prevent LM from getting anywhere. The problem is, the foam MUST be very very porous and must also be trimmed down to about 2-3mm maximum. My own testing has found that when using Super 33+ tape (which already decreases the 'distance' from the heatsink (outside of the CPU slug) to the green package housing, using foam that is even sightly too thick can reduce heatsink pressure even more and cause temps to be higher.

there are several methods you can use for foam dams as well as even using old, white, thick thermal paste (Arctic Ceramique 1, etc) in a ring around the core (a few mm out, as it must not touch the LM) which can also act as a barrier, although it's messy. Finding foam that is light enough and offering no resistance to being compressed is not easy, then you need to cut out the shape and trim it down to size without ripping it (even harder), but the results are worth it. I carry my MSIbook around with LM on both CPU and GPU, no problems.

Anyway : I don't recommend Gelid Extreme and neither does brother @Papusan . That paste isn't best for weak heatsinks. I would use Coolermaster Gel Maker Nano. This was tested to be most durable. Phobya nanogrease extreme works fine on *LGA* laptops, however a user tested Phobya on MSIbooks on BGA direct die, and had the same problems that Kryonaut had--the paste dried out and core temps got worse over time, just like Kryonaut, except it happened sooner with Phobya. While Gel Maker Nano doesn't cool as great as Kryonaut (a few C worse), it's more durable. The problem with direct die cooling is there is no heat spreader. This means DIRECT HEAT is transferred RIGHT onto the paste, rather than diffused onto a heat spreader and THEN to the paste, which causes extreme thermal stresses--far worse than what you would get on a LGA system. These stresses make the paste dry out or pump out sooner (which is again why having even pressure and a solid seal is helpful, as well as a good paste. Untested, but using the same kind of Super 33+ tape around the BGA might also help with pumpout of regular paste too--again untested, just me saying random stuff). These same stresses also tend to contribute to Gallium absorption into copper for liquid metal (that's why it's recommended after doing your first LM "re-repaste", and cleaning the old LM off the heatsink, making sure the heatsink is *FLAT* with no hardened LM bumps, but DO NOT remove the "silver stain" (gallium alloy) from the heatsink. This reduces the battery effect of gallium absorption.

BTW just to let you know:
if you have a completely exposed copper heatsink to air (not on a system, just sitting up somewhere) and you coat it with a peanut butter sized coating of LM and leave it sitting 2 weeks, ALL of the gallium will be absorbed, leaving the Tin and Indium completely hardened, so that's why it's important to have a nice seal. With a seal, you can remove the heatsink after 1 month and see it still see it nice and liquid (if there is NO liquid anywhere on the CPU at all, it's because all the gallium got absorbed and everything else is stuck on the heatsink).

 

Look, I asked MSI tech support about that in the next day when I bought my GT63.

They said that u can do it only with authorized service center.
Even though, on another question about SSD replacements, they said that instering more then 500 GB of PCI E SSD may affect your warranty, cause the motherboard and controllers are designed for 500 GB (512) of SSD. That questioned me a lot. Cause I don't see any difference. But I was told not to do that officially

 

Wow thank you for all of that @Falkentyne! GREAT info! And from what you said you just confirmed that I have NO will to do the liquid metal paste myself and would need someone like HIDevolution to do it...haha! So if I am confident with regular pasting and have done it in the past on numerous lappys, if I get something like Coolermaster Gel Maker Nano and did it myself with 0.5 Fujipoly pads do you think i should have at least some decent temps so I can game comfortable and not worry too much about thermal throttling or overheating? Or should I just bite the extra costs and but it from them and have them do the liquid metal. Was hoping that after they did the Liquid metal, I would have to worry about any liquid re-repasting for at least a year or longer. i am not a temperature crazy person where i check it day in and day out and freak out over a few degrees here and there, but i would like something that runs cool right from the get go and stays that way for a long while. I game alot so thermal throttling and overheating i do notice....thanks again

 

Look, I never said that you are wrong. I simply said that things here are different.

And apparently there are really different policies depending on each country (you can state that by doing a simple search in Google). Don't really understand why they are having different policies... and the weirdest part is that these differences are seen even inside the EU.

What I can tell you is that this is not my first MSI. I had to send one of my previous MSi laptops to the warranty service center with warranty sticker broken (for RAM installation and repasting) and not a single word from them rejecting warranty support.

This is a quote from the e-mail I have from the MSI Portugal support office that sustains what I said:

Translating:

 

anyone that has this laptop...can you run hwinfo or some program and possible let us know what make/model/serial # the memory is? Thanks!

 

I will take a screenshot of HWinfo once I arrive home tomorrow (traveling on business). I believe the model number for the Samsung SODIMM modules installed from the factory is M471A2K43CB1-CTD. This is also reflected in my Userbenchmark results. I will confirm this for you though

 

Thank you! I ordered the system and looking to buy a matching 16GB stick to put in it when it arrives....appreciate it!!!

 

No worries at all. Congrats on your purchase!! It is an excellent machine.

 

Thank you for your order!

Since MSI doesn't always use the same memory, it would be better to wait until you get yours and then run HWInfo64 to see what it is.

 

As per what Donald mentioned, MSI have been known to use memory from differing suppliers. Of all MSI systems I have seen (in forums/online), they either came with Samsung, Hynix or Micron modules and also in differing configurations i.e. 1x16GB or 2x8GB (this may be an option the buyer has selected). I would definitely wait till you have received your system to confirm what memory it is using prior to purchasing more.

 

Even with those chips they could have been packaged by ADATA, Kingston, etc.

 

My GT63 has this memory:
Samsung M471A2K43CB1-CTD

 

Just wanted to say thank you (!) to Don at HIDevolution for helping me out, answering my questions, and making this process very easy. Went with the liquid thermal paste job, the Fujipoly pads, BIOS undervolt, and a few other upgrades. Excited to get this unit as this is the exact size and power I always wished i could find and with the other upgrades, hopefully it will stay cool for gaming, etc for a long time to come.

Even selling my GT73VR 6RF with a 1080 and my GS43VR 7RE (1060) because of this little powerhouse and it being the perfect combo of the 2. They would be on the selling boards for everyone but I don't have 100 posts yet so I cant put them up on it unfortunately.

But thanks to Donald, @JNogueira , @Pureownuge69, @Falkentyne, etc for the responses and the help. Hopefully when i get this unit, run it through its paces and get it all set up, I can contribute on this GT63 Titan board and return the favor for others.