The Official MSI GT62VR Owners and Discussions Lounge

Wow, didn't know this. I am guessing it is the same for the NVIDIA setting of "Optimal Performance", "Adaptive" and "Preferred Maximum Performance". The only thing that worries me about Preffered Max Performance in the NVIDIA settig is that even moving the mouse in the desktop will max clock the GPU.

 

And that the reason why you should not touch setting at all

 

Omg guys I am not able to boot from USB. Th BIOS cannot see the usb hdd during boot. I even format the drive for UEFI. Am I missing something?


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Used Windows Fresh Start tool and got a clean install without booting from USB. Undervolted to -125mv and I am afraid to go lower. This is the 7700HQ i7. Do you think I should try going lower.

Edit: holy **** -150mv and has not crashed yet

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Don't be afraid to find the lowest limits.you cannot destruct cpu this way.you should be afraid if you do overvolt.if your system freezes or so called bsod state occurs then you know that you reached the limit and go back up with your mV a bit.

 

Went all the way to -150mv with no issues stress testing with prime95. Then sc2 blue screen in 10 minutes lol so I went to -140mv. I have been stable at that voltage for 4 days now.


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Hi,

I have the MSI 16L13 and I don't own GT62VR but I thought posting this here might be better because more people probably have GT62VR. They both use the same fans for cooling which is AAVID PABD19735BM -N322. I'm interested in whether the rattling sound that my fans are making is the normal sound of these fans. It's the kind of sound that you constantly notice because it is so distinct from the normal humming.

I have a loud HP ZBook for reference recorded with the same mic. This is what I consider as a healthy humming sound of a fan. No rattling at all at any RPM, just increasingly louder humming.

ZBook fan at 20 %:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B61PUD1nXGr7MFdxNDJFenpKRlE/view?usp=sharing

16L13/gt62vr fan at 20 % (only about 1100 rpm):
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B61PUD1nXGr7RzA1Q0FIWFNnbkE/view?usp=sharing

 

Omg spacebar at the right edge sometimes does not register. Is this a known issue?


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P95 is too heavy for me.OCCT is better option and sufficient for my purpose.

 

Hundred times mentioned in this thread.the fans are not very good - maybe good airflow but this parasite sounds are present at every second unit according to user reports.
You need to find the optimal rpm where that noise is not so audible and adjust your cpu/gpu to settings which can sufficiently use this acceptable rpms.

 

Yes, known issue.also some fix was proposed.DIY.
Some are saying that dragon center mitigates the keyboard issues,personally i cannot imagine how..but tehy states that.
Though Dragon center - i don't use it.

 

That has to be some bull, how can dragon center mitigate it hehe. I saw the dyi solution was to pop key and tape a piece if paper in the middle of the key i think.

 

I just bought a GT62VR (7700hq gtx1070 16GB) two days ago. Did a clean install of windows and downloaded the drivers from MSI and Nvida site.
I noticed in two games (diablo 3 witcher 3)I am getting noticeable screen tearing on 1920x1080 resolution in Ultra. I thought the G-sync was supposed to eliminate the problem. Are there any new drivers I am supposed to get or settings in the nvida panel I need to use to enable the function?

I guess it's not a huge problem because I really downloaded the game to test performance.

 

Gsync does work but when your fps is below 60 (If the monitor is 60hz). If your fps is 60 or higher you either need to enable vsync or use a frame limiter to let gsync fix the tearing (with vsync off you may need to set a frame limiter of 55 to get rid of tearing at the bottom or top of the screen). So yeah, that's just how gsync works, you need to pair it with either vsync or fast sync, last one should be used only if you can get at least twice your refresh rate, for example on 60hz screen you'd need 120fps and above to use fast sync properly as explained by nvidia topkek techs, otherwise you may notice a sort of micro-stuttering issue which sucks.

TL;DR

Use either vsync + gsync or gsync + frame limiter to keep the tearing away

also i found out that vsync + gsync + frame limiter (58 or below) is the best combination for input lag

 

Hmmm laptop shuts down at 47% battery. HWInfo shows only a 3.3% wear on the battery. Is my battery shot? Only 2 weeks old... how hard is to replace the battery? Would MSI even send a new battery for replacement or do they want the whole laptop?


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Do an EC reset with the back pinhole with the power cable unplugged (30 second+ press).
After the EC reset, try the MSI battery calibrator.

If you updated EC firmware and didn't EC reset, that can cause issues.

 

I will try that. If it still fails, would MSI send a battery replacement or would they want the actual laptop? I could return the laptop to amazon but I would be playing the lottery again. By the way, can this laptop operate without a battery and just AC power?

 

Are you sure the GT62VR doesn't use the battery juice even on AC on high intensity load? I have seen some gaming laptops do that. My battery dies at 47% right now and it is 2 weeks old. I am hoping MSI can send me a battery instead of asking me to send the whole laptop. My other option is to return the laptop to amazon.

 

Another thing I found...

My laptop GT62VR 7RD is supposed to have a 14.4V, 5225mAh, 75.24Wh Li-lion battery, MSI model: BTY-L78.

HWInfo and powercfg are reporting Designed Capacity: 79344 mWh, Full Charged Capacity: 74736 mWh... this doesn't look right.

 

Give it a shot.if you reduced PL1 and PL2 as i wrote before and got the IccMax setfrom auto to ~75A then your machine should be running fine even via cable.
Regarding to the failed component replacement,it depends.i read here that some guys got their component replaced in form send in / send out to MSI service.Just a component.In EMEA they usually want you to send whole unit.
If you can return the HW, then do it and order it again if you like it.

 

I think I will return it to Amazon. Hmm, for 70 more dollars I can get the i7-6700HQ with GTX 1070. Should I do this? Currently I have the i7-7700HQ with GTX 1060.

 

Auuu, you still don't 6820HK & 7820HK based units in US?
Well, i d rather recommend the GPU gain on 1070 than CPu gain 10%.
http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-7700HQ-vs-Intel-Core-i7-6700HQ/m211019vsm34954
Pity that you cannot get ****HK model...

 

Hey guys, sorry if someone has asked this on here before. My gpu fan is cooked (1 month old laptop... I cant even) and i cant find a replacement anywhere. It's the pabd19735bm n322 model with the 4 pin connector. I cant use my warranty because i've moved recently and stuff magically disappeared. Could anyone point me to a compatible fan or tell me what to do ? Im getting desperate... Thanks in advance for the help.

 

I am noticing the 6RE has a new setting in BIOS specifying the memory frequency. It is set to 2133. I can select 2400. Should I do this?


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Try it and let us know?

If it fails to POST, you can always do a cmos reset by holding down the power button for 30 seconds (with the power light off). It will boot loop a few times after looking like it is frozen for a minute (it may fail to POST, if that happens wait for a MINUTE first, then press the power button 5 seconds until it turns off and power it on again)

 

Ebay or aliexpress..it is a big problem to get the spare part and no compatible fans have been found so far.
Have you got your product registered on MSI page and invoice uploaded?

 

Check your ram modules capabilities.
Also, do you really expect significant computation increase if you go from 2133 to 2400?

 

It works. The RAM sticks were 2400mhz rated. I mean if the hardware supports it I do not see why no. However setting it to 2400mhz the boot time is much slower.

 

That doesn't feel right. Perhaps you can do a benchmark on memory comparing both frequencies of 2133 & 2400, see how the numbers come up.

 

Wtf i think it bricked doesnt turn on anymore.


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Follow what Falkentyne said, and try to recover the system.

 

Nvm had to reset EC and now it is fine. I am never touching that ****.


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I've tried both and havent found anything... I've contacted MSI but I assume i'll get a generic "meh" reply. I dont know what to do anymore or who to contact.

 

EC reset and cmos reset lol my heart stopped a heartbeat because I started getting the bootloops lol and thought that was it hahah.

 

Been there, done that.... and crossed fingers.

 

Used to with desktop but laptops man... ugh


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I've done so many CMOS resets (Trying to get RAM Command Rate 1T/1N to stick without it resetting the BIOS or failing to POST), that I know what to expect.
Finally got 1T to work permanently without strange POST failures.

 

FML cmos reset set my hdd to raid instead if ahci lmao i have to reinstall windows again....


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Was it worth of it?

 

Found something peculiar. If I have a game running (Doom) and I alt tab and then lock screen the GPU temp goes through the roof if the screen turns off. If the screen does not turn off then the gpu temps are fine. The GTX 1070 runs the game at 65-68C. After I engaged the windows lockscreen the screen turns off after 60 sec. I was eating stuff and came back and the GPU temps were at 85C. Decided to test by disabling the Display Turn off and the temp do not go up. I am wondering if this has anything to do with the panel G-Sync interaction with the GPU while a game is running in the background.

 

Man, it sucked, a learning experience ahha. Things misbehaved after the cmos reset, random freezes and stuff so I reflashed the bios and no more issues.

 

By the way, were you able to solve the fan noise? My GPU fan has the high pitch sound as well. When I listen it from up close, the fan itself does not have any whirring sound, it's almost like the high pitch sound is coming from the top middle part of the laptop. But when GPU activity goes down, the fan speed goes down and high pitch goes down as well. It is almost like the high pitch is electronic sound? Suspecting coil whine in which case I will have to suck it up.

 

I am having my temps under 60. Fans are barely audible at this temp.
1st 2 months it was driving me crazy that everywhere is advertised how equal to desktop this machine is but as ex active desktop user i was really disappointed.
Then i got used to this little fan rattle that i have on the gaming.
Temps are really fine with my ultra detailed Armored warfare,WOT at 60Hz. I don't have time for plot and story based AAA games once my little actually 3.5 year old princess@devil in one bundle entered my life .
Of course just after my final repasting with Gelid i got those 60'. i couldn't use the liqM due to bad IHS and HS contact.meanwhile i got bought the copper shims but have not used them so far.
Just don,t force the CPU/GPU to exercise more than is required by the game that you play - it is pointless.
It's like to be a powerlifter but you have to pick up the pack of groceries only from a truck on your yard to home 1 time per day...oh yes all those muscles ooiuuh yeaahh and readiness to lift & move a water bull ...but..for what.
In the future once the gaming titles which interest me will become more demanding,either i get the details reduced or will sell the unit.i want silence.i don,t play with headphones and notebook speakers àre usually at 20-30% on my sessions sooo disturbing fan noise is definitely a con for me and i will do anything to get rid of it or mitigate it at least till bearable.

 

How are your core differential temps after the final repasting?

 

Core 0 and 2 are hotter than Core 1 and 3. There is a difference of 14C when running Prime95 for 25 minutes. No thermal throttling though so I am still debating whether I should repaste the stock MSI paste. Btw this only happens when using prime95 and occt. When I play games like Doom, Diablo, Overwatch at max settings, the temps are within 3C on all cores (71, 68, 71, 69)


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i will re-check the OCCT or Prime this eve and let you know. But yes, the 0,2 were always hotter than the rest. It was 10-15c with stock paste and also with Arctic MX paste. The i sent it to MSI service, they applied some compounds again but no difference on the temps. Then i applied Gelid, ran some tests and temps were fine so i gave it up.

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Going to return laptop at microcenter and test core temps right there with a usb drive (occt)


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Lol this is a new out of the box MSI. I am doing this at micro center running OCCT small data set.

 

Tested all of them lmao same issue


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Sounds like you got a lock on a bad production run

Maybe order from another geographical region? And I hate to suggest it, another company.

It's possible it's endemic, but on other occasions simply ordering from another batch avoided the problem.

What did Microcenter say?

Maybe ask them to try to fix the CPU heatplate affixing issue, re-paste while they are at it, and if they can fix it you'll get one from them.