The Official MSI GT62VR Owners and Discussions Lounge

OK thanks, He has done a complete uninstall and re install. One thing we just noticed was that his DPI was set at %125, when he installed the game it set that in the game settings, he set both to %100 and is trying it now.

 

Not officially, but we have users that have managed to migrate several generations old machines, to relatively new GPUs. So maybe we can have unofficial upgrades.

 

Cool, it's possible that will have a positive benefit. If it doesn't, doing an uninstall/reinstall is different than doing a clean install. There are remnants that get left behind and can cause issues. Word on the street, as in I'd recommend, is that DDU works pretty well for that uninstall and from there you just need to install the driver like normal. I personally haven't ever had an issue pop up on any of my PC's that absolutely required a clean install but there are many people out there that after doing so their problems disappear completely.

 

Thanks again, I should have been more specific, He did use DDU as it was recommended on a Battlefield forum. He is also having other problems, sometimes the wireless adapter disappears, it boots to a black screen and the power button sometimes doesn't work, he is thinking about sending it back to Newegg as he feels if you drop 1799 on a laptop theses issues shouldn't be occurring. He understands the problems with BF1 are due to that game but along with the other problems it just a bit much for him.

 

Yeah, definitely understandable. It often pays to get through a custom reseller just so you can have them run through everything and basically do a doublecheck that everything is working as it should. Normally doesn't happen with a completely stock build but something that can always be requested.

As for those problems, does seem like something is going on and the issue he's seeing may be deeper than just code. He'd probably have to get into some deep level troubleshooting to figure it out. The MSI RMA process is always an option if he feels like it but would probably take longer than just getting a new machine shipped out.

 

I had a similar issue with my GT73 where the wireless adapter disappeared after a Windows 10 update but once I got rid of the Killer suite and stuck with the just driver it worked. I was hoping it was something like that. Thanks again for replies.

 

No problem at all!

 

Yeah I looked at that Tornado option but it was much more expensive. I'm confident that my 6700hq and gtx 1070 will be fine for the next 3 years and by then I will have saved up money for my next gaming laptop and tech will have changed greatly by then (ultrabooks like RBS and XPS 13 with proper quadcores and much better external GPU integration).

BGA CPU/GPU is fine in that regard. Most people don't want to keep the same screen, same keyboard, same thickness, same "tired" (in a few years) design. Other people like same old, same old

 

Random concern maybe no one can address mainly b/c I'm not sure how to communicate it well. So I love this screen, ESPECIALLY the brightness levels but one thing seems a bit odd: certain text can be blurry. When I'm on my browser, perfectly clear. When I'm playing a game, perfectly clear. The blurriness comes when something is getting installed, whether it be direct X or maybe a new game software (uplay, steam, origin), or mouse drivers or whatever. The little boxes that come up that tell you where to install stuff and you have to agree to the terms and condition, there is a noticeable "lack of sharpness" (I wouldn't say fuzzy).

Anyways, is that a Windows 10 thing? Is that because maybe I have my text set at 125%? (i think that's the default, i haven't changed it and haven't tried setting it back to 100% if it is at 125%). Just thought it was weird and not a big issue since as I said, all website text is great and any text in game is great. Only happens with those little install boxes that I can tell.

 

Yes... change the scaling back to 100%, and increase the font size instead. For some reason the scaling is 125% which just makes blurry text.

 

Cool just did it and I can see why default is 125%...everything is so small lol. But pin sharp, i'm just old

 

As I said, you'll probably want to increase the font size to help offset the 25% loss in text magnification. I think the default font size is 10? Bump it up to 12 or 14 to keep menus readable.

 

Hi all... spent some time reading most of the posts here. I got in on the Microcenter deal and should have my GT63VR here in a couple days. I am anticipating that I'll repaste the CPU and GPU, but would you recommend waiting until I see how the temps are? I am eager to try undervolting and getting temps as low as I can! I don't want to start another debate on which thermal compound to use like I've seen on other threads, but given what you guys know about these machines, would IC Diamond on both be a good way to go? Do I need to worry about it etching/pitting the metal?

Edit: I've only watched a friend repaste my desktop CPU once, so I don't have much experience with it. I think I read in another forum that I can clean stock paste with alcohol and then make sure there's no dust, etc. Is that good or do I need to buy ArctiClean or something and get proper microfiber cloths?

Sorry if this has been asked a thousand times, but was curious if the specifics of this laptop change anything.

 

If I were you, I would check temps first. @hmscott says MSI stock paste is pretty ok.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

@nasawhy

If the temps are good - showing good coverage - then MSI / Asus laptops run stable with their stock paste a very long time.

If you have high temps, try undervolting first, and use the Balanced power plan to let the CPU cool down between loads - those 2 things are usually enough to tame a hot CPU.

If you have "hot cores" 2 cores hotter than the others by 10c or more, then it's likely you need to return for another laptop or RMA the motherboard for a new CPU.

If you got a bad draw from the pool of laptops, and undervolting and tuning don't get the heat down, then consider returning - or if you otherwise like the laptop condition - no other problems, and you have done it before - re-pasting a desktop / laptop CPU - then go for a re-paste.

Make sure you pick a paste that has long life, because once you start repasting you'll need to continue doing it as the paste oxidizes over time. ICD and GEIL seem to be long lasting, MX4 not so much. Others say AS5 oxidizes too quickly, as well, but I haven't had that problem.

Remember that the thick goopy stock paste is that way for a reason, to keep from oxidizing for long life without repasting, and to match ill fitted parts - like to reach short parts from the heatsink they use thick paste or pads.

You need to replace those pads and / or use thick paste like K5 Pro - thin pastes will dry and pull away leaving a gap between ill fitted components or components that had thick paste or pads.

Re-pasting with enthusiast pastes may lower temps a few degrees at the time of re-pasting, but you are now bound to maintain those good temps over time by following a re-pasting regimen. Some people love it, I have better things to do - most of the time - so if the temps are good, enjoy your spare time gaming instead of doing system maintenance chores.

Have fun

 

Yeah i got msi afterburner and it showed the gpu usage correctrly so i tried reinstalling dragon center and it seems to have fixed the problem, thanks for your answer!

 

Document what the machine has from out of box so you can compare after repasting. IC diamond is great for any application.
Regarding etching/pitting, it is unavoidable because there are elements used in IC diamond that can cause such issue. However, the issue can be minor if you don't remove your heatsink often therefore this is going to be less of an issue to you.

 

Thanks, I appreciate the detailed replies, everyone.

Is the "Balanced power plan" a windows power setting, or something I'd find in the BIOS, or XTU or TS?

What's the best way to monitor temps in individual cores?

 

Search for "power options"

Windows control panel Select Power Options, then the Windows High Power Plan, go into Advanced, and set the CPU (Processor) Min / Max to 100% / 100% - you can also go through the other options and disable power saving like settings - and set Hard Disk Tun off to 0 (never spin down).

There are a number of apps that can monitor temps and other readings, hwinfo64 has a lot of good features including a tight list of readings that in one "snipping tool" grab can show a great deal of CPU / GPU info.

https://www.hwinfo.com/download.php

 

AIDA64 is also a nice choice to have, but unfortunately it's not free.

 

Has anyone experienced issues connecting this laptop to a TV screen via HDMI other than our friend Kayron? Did any of you try gaming on a TV screen using this laptop?
Appreciate any feedback.

 

I will try it shortly after mine arrives tomorrow night. I have a 4k TV and an appropriate HDMI cable. Will report!

 

Yes I did. If you read a few pages back you can see what I had going on but basically I had bad screen tearing on my 1080p Vizio from 2014 which I never see on the laptop screen. The fix was to make only "Display 2" visible in the display settings of windows 10 and once I did that, GTA V @ 1080p on Ultra perfectly smooth and zero tearing.

 

My MSI will arrive today. I've started prepping for a clean install, but I'm thinking of running some benchmarks with the stock setup first, just for fun. Assuming I'd want to test the temps and performance, what should I plan on running? Prime95? 3DMark Firestrike? Unigine Valley/Heaven?

Basically, what would be the most useful for determining how good the thermals are working and then for comparing the difference after a clean install? (I will probably need help interpreting results, so what would you like to see?)

 

It's been proven time and time again there is no particular advantage to doing a from scratch install of Windows vs a tuned stock image from the vendor.

Once you install everything the vendor installs, it runs the same.

The best plan worked out over many years, is to backup the vendor recovery image using their tool or Windows or a 3rd party bare metal recovery tool, to make a bootable recovery flash drive so you can restore to the out of the box version when you want to.

Like for RMA service - the vendor will likely do it for you as part of the RMA if you don't; for starting over with a "clean" image after experimenting with tuning a few times, and when you get it "right" do it one more time from a "clean" recovery restore

Instead of going through all the trouble of starting from a scratch install from MS media, tune the image the vendor built, with all the drivers, settings, and configuration shipped with it. They spent many hours setting it up, and you will need to recreate that effort - it's a waste of time - fun, but fruitless.

The easist way to approach is to look at what the vendor has installed, and decide it you want it or not.

Then uninstall vendor utilities, apps, tools, and reboot between each one.

There are usually only a handfull of "bloatware" to uninstall, and I can usually get it done in 5 - 10 minutes, much short time than backing up, downloading the media, doing the scratch install, downloading the vendors drives, OEM drivers for newer versions, and often some of the stuff installed isn't available for download.

Also, doing a scratch install will install "generic" drivers vs full OEM drivers, or install old / unstable drivers - not of your or the vendors choosing.

The drivers, apps, utilities the vendor installed running as a whole is a known good configuration - that which is supported by the vendor. After uninstall "bloatware" and utilities and apps you don't need, it's just as good as a "from scratch MS media install".

An interative approach is best, as you are considering. Get a base reading from the installed vendor OS for benchmarks. Get temperature readings from load / benchmarks / stress tests on the base paste and BIOS tunings.

Then vary 1 thing at a time. Use the vendor tuning tools - like their Gaming Center tools for granular Sport, Mid-tune, and Power Saving to see how the performance varies.

Uninstall that Gaming Center, and install a CPU / GPU tuning tools like hwinfo64 and MSI Afterburner, a monitoring too like hwinfo, an FPS / OSD display to see CPU / GPU utilization, D3D11/12 FPS. And, vary settings with a finer grain.

Then once you have the undervolt stable for the CPU Cores / Cache, and if you have a CPU that you can adjust the multiplier do that too to get best performance. Do the same with the GPU (usually no undervolt).

Then you have the best stock OC performance. If that isn't thermal throttling, then you don't *need* to re-paste, you can get into enjoying your laptop right away for gaming, work, etc and stop wasting time on tuning and maintenance.

Or, if you like to fiddle with hardware, now's the time to pull it apart and repast, reshim, re-jigger the options.

It's not something that needs to be done day 1 as soon as it comes out of the box. It's better to let the laptop burn-in and let infant mortality failures occur before modding the hardware and then you need to back out those mods before shipping for RMA - whereas if you waited and stuff fails - or you find things not working to your liking you can return to the retailer right away, instead of being stuck with that laptop and needing to deal with problems through RMA - which takes a lot longer than simple returns for refunds or swap for a new unit.

And, remember, it's all supposed to be for fun, no stress necessary - unless that's fun for you

And, please post interesting stuff you find and learn along the way that you think others with your make / model, or any laptop might benefit from

 

Wonderful, thanks again for the detailed response. One question: I'd heard that the partitions from stocks like MSI can be weird and not so good. Any truth to that? I thought I'd heard that just resetting to the default Windows partitions was reason enough to do a clean install?

 

Well, Asus's, MSI's partitioning and most others can be considered weird by someone

Everyone has their own particular thoughts and habits of implementation for spreading Windows across the installed storage.

My advice is to do that bare metal recovery boot flash drive, for MSI it's MSI BurnRecovery - it's up to 19GB backed up so you will want a fast USB 3.0 32GB flash drive to do the backup.

Do that backup first, and make sure it works - pull the current drives out (SSD / HDD), and plop in a spare 2.5" drive to try to the restore.

The reason you do this instead of using the original drives is that if the restore fails - for example some USB drives will appear to create recovery just fine on them, but during the restore will fail to find the image - this is very bad.

Because the first thing recovery restores do is to "erase" the drive partitions on all the internal drives, and recreate them.

This means all your original partitions are gone, and new blank partitions have been made - you can't create another flash recovery drive because the recovery partition is blank...

I've seen people that have done that restore without thinking about the whole picture and then their restore fails.

It's depressing.

For me after the restore test, I usually set the HDD aside - the one with the recovery drive - just in case. Preserving that original drive is cheap, and nice to have on hand when putting in the original drives for RMA. You pull your new drives with your private stuff on it, and plop back in the original drive(s) for RMA work.

Then you can restore to your new storage, MSI's recovery will restore to it's partitioning.

Then find the recovery drive, and associated unneeded partitions - unlock them with diskpart and delete them.

Asus likes dividing free space into 2 partitions - combine them. MSI can do this too, so look for their partition layout and delete unneeded partitions from the end of the drive then combine free space with the single partition you want.

Have fun

 

Do you mean after an RMA? Or do you mean I can be confident that my restore thumb drive will work properly if I need it on my new storage?

In this case "recovery drive" is the extra 2.5" that I used for the test? Not sure I follow this line exactly.

 

So super weird error now. Just bought Battlefield 1 and COD IW and both of them play perfectly fine on laptop. But when i connect to my TV, BF1 has no audio (video is fine) and with COD, no audio as well and the Zombie mode is a blurry 3d mess (meaning it looks like i should have to have 3d glasses to view it properly).

Any thoughts?

 

Use HDMI Audio return channel if you are connected to an A/V receiver? Audio settings in game?

 

I don't understand that first part and definitely checked all audio settings in game, on laptop and on tv.

 

I think it's just an NVIDIA 1070 bug. playing COD IW or BF1 on laptop and they play PERFECTLY. hook up to tv and no audio and COD is blurry 3d mess. But youtube works fine on tv via same connection. guess i gotta wait a few days for bug fixes.

 

Try booting from the TV connected as the main monitor and launch the game. It might be a bug, like you describe, where it doesn't recognize the proper audio output? Does any playback device show activity when in game and no sound output?

 

How are you connecting your laptop to the TV? What ports and cables are you using? Does audio play at all from your laptop as a source while connected to the TV? Or is the issue restricted to COD and BF1?

Is your laptop connected straight to the TV screen or to the A/V receiver of your home theater? If the former, make sure your A/V is connected to the TV using the HDMI ARC port to allow the audio to split from video and stream back from TV to A/V.

 

So basically I connect my laptop to my TV via HDMI. that's it. Also from the TV to a Vizio sound bar is an optical connection. (I have no receiver; just tv, sound bar and subwoofer) Like I said, with this setup, youtube works fine. Other games work fine. Just BF1 and COD IW. So i'm guessing it's first week bugs they need to iron out I will try Civ 6 since that also just came out and see if the same thing happens.

 

Not sure what you mean by last question. But in the Windows 10 tray at bottom right i can click on the sound icon and switch to the laptop and BF1 and COD1 audio works, just from my laptop speakers. Which actually wouldn't be terrible since these speakers are amazing for laptop speakers but my tv speakers are MUCH louder as they should be

 

OK made slight progress. I went to NVIDIA Control Panel and for some reason "set up stereoscopic 3D" was checked. So I unchecked that and now there is no weird 3D effect going on in COD IW or Civ 6 which i just tested.

But still no audio in BF1 or COD IW. There is audio in Civ 6 and video is perfect so I have to imagine they just need to patch those games. Otherwise, why would Civ 6 work perfectly when I think it had the same release date as BF1 just a couple weeks ago or less?

 

There are a couple of thoughts there

1) Run a test restore from the newly created bootable flash recovery USB drive. You need to be confident that it works. Some have found when it came down to relying on it, that it wasn't correctly made - some USB drives appear to work, but can't access the recovery file. Then it's too late, your original drive is lost - reused for storage or something else.

2) Save the original SSD/HDD on the shelf. You can then have them ready to put back in the laptop to create another bootable flash recovery USB drive - in case you lost the original or didn't take the time to run a test restore and find it won't actually restore the recovery image.

Backup's of backup's, multiple paths to recovery, it's always a good idea to not rely on a single backup - if you don't want to save the original drives on the shelf - create 2 bootable flash recovery USB drives - tested of course

Hope that clears it up, questions?

 

Did you also switch / select and configure the audio output in the Windows Sound Control panel?

 

Yeah I checked that out. It was correct from the very beginning. Just happens every year I think. Day 1 jank.

 

guys read this short user review on newegg; i came across this "disappearing Wireless adapter" and black screen on boot up frequently in user reviews. Anyone else?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154348

 

anyone know what ram is in the 16gb model? i'm thinking of upgrading to 32gb of ram just b/c the 2 ram slots that are most easily accessible i'm told are the empty ones and it will be like $80-$90 instead of $350 to do a full 64gb install. Do i just buy ANY 2x8gb 2400mhz ddr4 sodimm model? or do i need to get more specific than that? is it important i buy one with the lowest CL timing or something? haven't bought ram in a while. And if this MSI GT62VR 6RE DP is running dual channel i don't want to screw that up and slow down my speed. Not sure it would even be noticeable but anyway.....thoughts?

So is this Kingston from Amazon fine?
Same with this Crucial from Crucial?

Or is the "single ranked" from cucial mean it's slower?

 

Just check with CPU-Z or HWInfo or similar - you can see the make and timings.

 

Just got mine last week. 1400 from microcenter. I had an issue with the audio, deleting nahimic fixed the problem. I swapped out the hdd with an ssd. Coming from a 2010 Sony vaio, this things amazing. This looks like an awesome forum, I'm glad I found it!

 

No wireless adapter randomly disappearing from device manager? No black screen on boot up? Streaming 4k/60Fps to TV with clear text and working audio?

 

That laptop was bought by a good friend of mine, I spent hours with him trying to sort things out and seem to have them fixed then the next morning he would have the black screen issue, the randomly dead power button or the wireless issue, he isn't an enthusiast like myself or many here and the amount of time he spent was a bit much. He still may order another one but he is shopping around.

 

Had zero issues on mine except audio while connected via hdmi to a TV and only for 2 games released in the past two weeks. So I think the laptop is perfect.

 

Thanks! Downloaded HWinfo and DANG that's a lot of info found out it's Kingston ram installed i think like the one i linked from Amazon but i'll verify. Now i can easily get the same kind so all 4 sticks are matching

 

Awesome! yeah i think the laptop is currently the best "power/price" gaming laptop available with the Microcenter deal. $1,400 for a 1070 and rest of the hardware is nice. a 1080 laptop is literally double ($2,800 starting and goes up to $4k+ easy). Even laptops with a 1060 are more expensive (like RB 14 and AW 13). of course there are reasons they are more expensive but again if main two concerns is power for gaming and pricepoint, this is it

I think i'm gonna add 16gb of ram for like $80 maybe around Chistmas and then wait a year or 2 and HOPEFULLY if SSD prices come down more swap out the 1tb hdd for a 4tb ssd

 

I have a question about this particular model, it the wireless card easily accessible? If the Killer card is causing an issue could you just pop off the back and plug the one one in? I kn ow that the sticker saying "warranty void if removed" can be removed for simple things on my model but would the wireless replacement fit under this category.

EDIT: It looks like its under part of the heat sink, can it be slipped in without removing it.