The Official MSI GT62VR Owners and Discussions Lounge

Sure..

He says:

I'd move the GT62VR/16L13 down on each line..

My results:

Idle or browsing/working = silent.. have to put your ear near the rear of the unit to make sure the fans are even spinning.

Semi demanding games = Quiet, you can hear it moving some air now but it's a low wooshing

High End ultra settings triple A titles: Still moving air, but more of a low roar now.. Not even close to being annoying or high pitched.

Max Fans: Low roar, just louder.. The fans on these machines are big, larger blades = lower roar sounds..

You can't really compare decibels of sound without knowing the FREQUENCY being used at the decibels.

Some laptops will sound very high pitched when they spin up, more annoying.. vs something like the GT62VR that sounds like a low roar, low frequency which blends into the environment much better and is harder to notice.

I've had the MSI GS63VR and it was a high pitched mess of noise under a small load and crazy loud with triple A titles.

And my previous Asus G751 was a low roar machine that sounds pretty much identically to my GT62VR and 16L13.. However, in fact both the GT62/16L13 are quieter under demanding games than the Asus was.. The Asus CPU fan was definitely louder than the CPU side on my unit.. Although I would say the 980M sided Fan was slightly quieter than the MSI's GPU fan. The GPU fan on the MSI is quicker to react to heat than the CPU side is.

 

Agree.. I'd love to have our own thread at this point so we can seperate people that want to talk about each one so we don't get confused. However, i'm pretty sure each one of us would convince people thinking about the GT62VR to get a 16L13 at this point for less money. Lol.

 

Hey man you have highly detailed photos I'd be all for you starting a 16L13 Lounge for us. We can move our discussions of the laptop over there and leave the GT62 lounge. While I agree they are similar in discussion, I do feel it deserves it own thread to help people find what they need faster.

 

Maybe @Talon could include a nice description of the 16L13 vs GT62 in his #1 post, with a link to the new thread for the 16L13?

 

Watching a movie right now, give me till tonight and it will be done. @Diversion maybe get that new thread started?

 

from what I have gathered reading this entire thread (all posts), listed below are perhaps the possible potential issues/downsides of the (MSI 16L13) barebones (Eurocom F5) unit that have been mentioned or read about. please correct/advise on any misunderstandings or discrepancies, or anything that I may be way off-base on / misunderstood, or anything that I may have not mentioned or have possibly missed entirely(thanks!):

- fairly difficult to access the upper 2 primary RAM slots (partial disassembly of chassis required)

- only 1 display type (FHD 1080p Matte) available for MSI 16L13 barebones (Eurocom F5) > (no other display options such as 3k / 4k / glossy / 1440p or 120hz are available at this time)

- potential issues with keyboard (space bar), trackpad (click buttons), issues are hit or miss depending on the barebone MSI 16L13 (Eurocom F5) unit received from Eurocom

- MSI 16L13 (Eurocom F5) has an internal battery (non-swap-able / not easily removable)

- upon Purchase of barebone MSI 16L13 (Eurocom F5) unit, a full re-paste is required on the CPU & GPU / under heatsink to keep internal temps within reason, possible De-lid & re-paste / Re-lid required on 6700k to bring temps down a bit

- no custom BIOS readily available at this time when MSI 16L13 barebones (Eurocom F5) is purchased (would require a re-flash of BIOS IF & When a custom BIOS can be had, the availability of which is a crap-shoot thus far)

- no custom vBIOS (on 1060 or 1070) included when barebones MSI 16L13 purchased (Eurocom F5)

- compatibility with upcoming Kaby Lake CPU (upgrade / cpu swap) not determined and would most likely require a major BIOS / firmware upgrade, some chance that this might not happen with MSI 16L13 barebones (Eurocom F5) unit as it is not supported in this way (like retail MSI units)

- IO port configuration somewhat odd (all USB 3 ports only on the right side of machine, all audio jacks on left side

- possible need for the larger 330 watt adapter (PSU) to meet possible power needs (especially if OC is done) on MSI 16L13 barebones (Eurocom F5) unit

- some possible sound issues on MSI 16L13 barebones (Eurocom F5) unit, requires a specific driver update ?

- MSI Dragon controls etc not available at all in barebones MSI 16L13 (Eurocom F5) model

- Killer WiFi issue, requires the substitution of Intel 8260 WiFi card WHEN MSI 16L13 barebones (Eurocom F5) IS Purchased (the changing / swapping of WiFi card requires a full re-paste as card is partially buried under heatsink assembly)

- non-branded / No-logo sleek MSI 16L13 barebones unit (Eurocom F5) is a hit or miss, may possibly require an additional fee paid to Eurocom for No Logo ?

 

It is done! I just need to start adding info now..

 

All good questions, can you please re-post in the official thread?

 

@chezzzz

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/the-official-msi-16l13-owners-and-discussions-lounge.797128/

@Diversion

Please update your sig/profile info

 

sure thing

 

Doneski.

 

Appreciated, Diversion.

 

Moving over there... so long, this thread!

 

Use the thread you created for discussion of the 16L13, as things are a little too mixed together in here to coherently move posts to the new thread.

Charles

 

Is there any way we can give you the post numbers to have moved? Anything we can do to help? Thanks!

 

Bye guys

 

Awww..

Awww... This really make me wanting to get now this notebook... But still next year is so close now....

 

Isn't it that AW nb's cpu and gpu are both soldered on the motherboard? I know this is AW's design for their systems. Compared to 16L13 barebones aw cannot be compared with this model. The only brand that can rival this is a clevo nb.

 

My point..Have you heard the EC controlled GPU fan that cools GPU which generates ~ 100 frames w/o gsync or vsync on?
I prefer silence rather than smoother eye movement perception experience...for ME, 120 hz looks weird and not natural , well it may be the question of time to get used to it.
I am and will be fully Ok with 60s' till the moment when i visit the store and guy will tell me: Look you Goddamned dino, that old 'everythinglooksgoodinslowmotion' displays ARE not available anymore or you need to pay extra money to get one from tech museum, that will the time to say: Ok ok ok get me some of those ultrahypersuperbbright&shiny1000hz with fusion pocket reactor and you can also add that yphone 15 with that everybodymusttohave 8K display..oh wait you are saying that i need also backpack cell for that phonee?..

Everything is moving forth, all these techtoys are nice and cool but they are STILL generating a lot of heat, the consumption may be optimized but still funny how they are able to add Frequencies, etc but they are not able to bring some reasonable Acu in the game.

One day, my body will say: OK, that's it. Feel free to add to the quality of sound/picture i don't care..i m barely able to recognize the difference.

 

MSI GT62VR Dominator, Mobility, Powerful and Plenty of Gaming Features

 

The display seems to fail with dark scenes, it does not handle it well and produces crushed blacks. I noticed it first when streaming Game of Thrones s6 ep 1 with the laptop connected to my tv. Side by side you could see so many details getting lost because of the darkness. I even played the same scenes on my seven year old sony vaio and could see the details in dark scenes that were missing from the gt62vr. Nothing to do with brightness settings either, in fact both my tv and my old ass laptop I compared it to are set dimmer.

Edit: well I adjusted the gamma in truecolor gamer mode settings and I guess I´ll have to move away from srgb mode that had more accurate gamma settings but crushed blacks.

 

That I can do. You can post them here or PM me.

Charles

 

Thanks for the update, Kayron.

 

Can MSI afterburner be used with this unit to overclock the GPU? If so, has anyone tried it? Please share how much OC headroom is supported and its impact on temps etc...

 

Yes you can overclock the card with MSI Afterburner. I believe @Diversion was able to do 275mhz on the core and 500mhz on the memory.

 

+240 core was my limit on the GT62VR.. And memory would go higher but I left it at +500.

 

After the weeks of playing with xtu, i've found the setup for me.
It's nothing special, this just for those without zero OC skillset...i had no skill in this domain, two weeks back.
@hmscott, thanks that you kicked me in with your UV guide in the thread.
Cpu: 6820HK
Fans in BIOS control mode.(no silent option,DGC,etc)

ALL recorded attempts i had:
http://hwbot.org/user/encheels/#XTU_Profiles

The one i've chosen for daily use:
http://hwbot.org/xtu/analyze/3338954
Stable 3.58GHz, no current or power throttling,minor and occassional ThermalT on OCCT or XTU bench.Freq is stable even on those rare thermT events.
The latest PRIME95(is killer) will generate frequent ThermT, but i will never load the CPU in the same way during my day to day activities.
Thanks boys.
P.S: You killed this thread when you bought Tornados ;"(

 

Sorry we bought the barebones and left this thread stranded.. Still trying to check in.. Great OC though, 3.58ghz is good.. As not all 6820HKs are created equal, not all will easily go to 4ghz+.

What voltage do you have at 3.58ghz? Assuming you're using offsets or a static voltage? And you hit 85c tops in Prime95 small fpu?

 

It hits 88Cwith the latest P95 with Turbo fan off.Permanent ThermT but Core freq still at 3.5Ghz.
I have not changed coreV(default=jumps in 1.030-1.058V), only set -0.150V on the offset.
If you check my xtu presets i also made it to 4+ but i don't like what energy it sucks at that level.The Current and power shortage can be easily mitigated at 4, but it's beyond cooling system capability of ms16L2,imho.Repasting may help but i won't do that upcoming 2 years at least.
bTW, at 40+ it has ~ 91C but i am not able to reduce thermT anymore...
I simply don't want temp over 85.Fortunately P95 is pure overkill but still good proof of concept.

 

Time for some liquid metal/better thermal paste

My de-lidded 6700K will still hit 90-92c under Prime95 after about 20 minutes :/ With a huge undervolt even. Prime95 is just an app to see if you're scarily close to 100c I guess. We should be fine.

 

Also run the Intel stress CPU test for an hour and report back on your max temps.

 

36x my setup results after 1 hour stress test:
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AiOUCEPlhamyhbQgvY6TFvfgE6XRng

Another stable setup found at 38x: No throttling.85C
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AiOUCEPlhamyhbQhhXNnSQ-4otaizQ
I will try to run it 1 hour tomorrow and increase UV.

I tried to set throttleless 40x mode, but nearly impossible so far.

 

Possible to grab the $1699 unit for around $1500-ish by Chrsitmas or unlikely?

 

Unlikely.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

MSI GT62VR Gaming Laptop Review
Published on Sep 21, 2016

 

Have you repasted? If you look at your core temps. your core temps are varying hugely from each other. 80+c on core1 but in the 60s on the others? They should be more even especially on the intel stress test.

 

I saw that, but attributed it to a single threaded process being run before / after his test run, setting the Core 0 High Temp reading differently than the other cores.

@encheels you can "clear" the hwinfo readings before running a test run so you have a clean view of the readings for that test run only.

Also, you can turn on logging and get a better reading as to how often the High temps are reached. Often it's a brief single point where the High temp is reached, then the rest of the run is running lower temps.

You can mitigate these peaks by running Max / 100% fans during benchmark runs or load testing.

The auto fan curves favor quiet operation over maximum cooling, and there will be a delay between when the CPU suddenly hits 100% and the fans spin up fast enough to cool the CPU and drop the temperatures.

Running the fans at 100% keeps maximum cooling going throughout the test run - from beginning to end with no fan curve getting in the way

 

I think that @Diversion may be right, Core0 segment is probably not properly covered by the Tcream. I don't see any reason why there should be +10 in comparison with other cores.I reset the readings when i got 100% load initiated.
Fans were set in Max mode via Silent option in prior the test execution.(3300rpm) i had not used Turbo fan, honestly i don't know when you can practically use this extreme lion roaring mode?!

The last temp graphs:
https://1drv.ms/x/s!AiOUCEPlhamyhbpPScnKeO3hpg91RA
Also pics:
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AiOUCEPlhamyhbpNRCBzMrnpAavatQ
And
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AiOUCEPlhamyhbpON5OUMsr-TeyR5g
The first temp peak is caused by XTU stress test,DROP,then CPUZ CPU burner,DROP,OCCT test,RELAXing and cooling down.
intel stress test is weird, just check that temp jumps and drops when it is running...freq is stable and no Throttle present..

 

http://www.microcenter.com/product/...7_156_Gaming_Laptop_Computer_-_Aluminum_Black

$1399 for 1070 GT62

 

$1399 at Microcenter right now.

 

Sold out in Detroit!

 

10+ at my local microcenter in Chicago.

 

Stock pasting in place.well, i don't know whether i can do the repaste job without voiding the warranty...

 

I think Microcenter will ship from their central warehouse to you or your local store, if they have inventory.

Store to store was always a question, but they have done it in the past.

You can also check inventory at stores close to you and drive to pick it up - they have held items from a call at one time, but now I think you can order online to pickup in a particular store.

 

That's too bad, I hate that kind of problem, one that seems easy to fix but can be not easy to fix. I have had a couple of CPU's with wonky core differential temperature readings, and seen it happen with others laptops.

It's best to return it for another one, and not waste time trying to fix it yourself. I've waste time on the first one re-pasting several times, all to no effect. Recently a friend's custom builder wasted time on 3 re-paste's themselves, then pulled a new laptop from the shelf and shipped that to him.

If it's retail, just return it and ask for another one. It's easier to do that now rather than later after you've pulled apart the laptop - and perhaps caused another problem.

If it's a custom build from a boutique shop call your builder and tell them about the problem, and ask what can be done - can they cross ship a new custom build, or at least start work on one while your laptop is shipping back to them.

You paid for warranty support, you might as well use it

 

Just bought this near Atlanta! super excited! I went to one Microcenter without checking inventory and they were out of stock but the other one that is 45 min away had 10+. Got there at 9:01pm and the doors were locked but a guy came and let me in so i could purchase the laptop! Super stoked to get it set up

 

This deal is a steal!!!!!!!!!

 

And turned it on last night and saw more light bleed than I'm willing to have for the next 5 years as my main PC and when I'm spending $1500.

Exchanging today and hoping for better. But laptop was NICE! I know light bleed is common but I also know plenty of people that have zero on their laptop.

 

Update: have had the laptop for a week now, did a anti malwarebytes scan, went away, came back with the thing having finished the scan long ago and thus in an idling status, heard a weird deflating sound from the right side of the laptop. Sounds like coil whine and it is a similar sound that people were complaining about with alot of the msi gtx 970 machines back a while ago. Just youtube it.

First time I have heard this in the week that I have had the thing and it went away after a few minutes, coincidentally after opening an old google session.

Sounds like this one minute in, but this guy is running a test while my comp sat there doing nothing after a completed virus scan:

 

Have you got Dragon center installed?if yes, try to adjust the fan speed to 0 level for CPU and GPU.do you still hear that noise?
You can also use Silent option from MSI to regulate the fans to 0 level.Just don't forget to put it back once u r finished with this test.
Also try to switch the power profiles.
At last try to unplug from the AC.
Also which Audio driver have you got installed?