The Official MSI GS73VR Owners' Lounge

Btw guys any other msi laptop alternatives to the gs73vr? if i do get the refund i might buy some other msi laptop. i cant use a laptop thts too noisy thts why i chose the gs73vr. and look wht it did to me...sigh. i use Unity, UE4, Blender,Hitfilm 4 Express, Visual Novel Maker and Rpg Maker MV so any other msi gaming laptop with a 17inch and above screen would be grt. I work in game dev so the gs73vr was a godsent to me in terms of fan noise. However since these problems occured, i am utterly disgusted with it rn, truly disappointed in the laptop. Thx again guys in advance. Grt community, i just cant wonder how u guys are able to get good quality laptops and are able to cope with the problems if u do get those bad ones like i do. Its not tht im being a pain in the ass thts negatively gnawing at MSI and stuff. these stuff rly do happen to us normies tht actually use the products. Hope the ppl tht buy this model will be lucky and not get those types of issues. Frankly, i loved my laptop so much tht i even put it on a bed everytime i dunt use it and put a mosquito net to prevent dust. the gs73 does attracts lots of dust so i brush them off every single day with a camera lens cleaning brush. I pay so much attention and carefully handle my laptop . its sad tht despite all my efforts , i got smacked in the face by reality. If im supposed to not open and close the lid daily i would have gotten myself a Desktop pc instead. I didnt because i loved using laptops and ...this is not what i expected. at least not from this laptop. I can accept it if its just 400bucks or so, but they really shouldnt do this.

 

i will upload pictures of the laptop and its issue tomoro just in case u guys think im overreacting and just trying to make msi lose its name(like some of those assholes on the web tht ruin ppls' lives by discrediting products). NO, i am not one of those guys. I am like you guys, a normal guy whos a huge fan of laptops. I have bought and used a lot of different brands of laptops and have encountered problems like the ones im facing rn. but in their case they were cheaper (around 900bucks) and their faulty parts were acceptable to me just because they were cheap. The gs73vr is expensive yet cheap in specs regard in my opinion and i wud definitely recommend this laptop to anyone if it had none of those issues im facing. At least not the hinges, i dunt care if u cut corners in the laptop like flexes but poor hinges tht are intentionally made tht way with no regards to previous complaints from customers is just terrible imo. My coworkers have told me b4 tht msi laptops are built badly, i didnt believe them. Now i do. Im just ragin here cuz its an open forum and many other ppl will obviously come check here in case theyre interested in buying it. BIG TIP TO U PPL OUT THERE THT WNNA BUY THIS LAPTOP: Get your ph, open ur voice recording app and when ure at the sales place,have a conversation with the person in charge. ask them will those issues happen(Hinge breaking, badly aligned lids). If yes, will you fix it? Will those issues happen again even if i repair it ? FTER BUYING, SAVE IT LABELED AS "EVIDENCE".
BOTTOM OF THE LINE IS.....
GRT DESIGN GUYS, BAD QUALITY. REALLY REALLY BAD QUALITY. NEVER SEEN STH LIKE THIS BEFORE IN MY WHOLE LIFE. IF U MANAGE TO GET THE BETTER QUALITY ONES, GOOD FOR U GUYS WELL DONE. IF URE ONE OF THOSE PPL LIKE ME, RUN, RUN FAR AWAY. OR DECIDE TO MURDER THEM AND THEIR ENTIRE FAMILIES AND RELATIVES LIKE ONE OF THOSE CRAZY TERROISTS THT U HEAR ABOUT ON THE NEWS. they dont tolerate for u , so why shud u either?

 

For fan speed I let it run on Auto CPU with undervolt my cooling is fine (GT73) and it doesn't get too noisy - GT75 is newer version, but more expensive for same performance. If you want to play around with tuning try MSI Silent Option.

For "RGB" mode I don't need that I use the ICC profile that came in TrueColor package - I unzip it and pull out the file to use in Windows, but the filters that TrueColor uses aren't of interest to me. But, without DGC installed you can use TrueColor much like you do now, probably better.

And for "stuff", I use Intel XTU for CPU tuning - undervolt and overclock, MSI Afterburner for GPU tuning + RTSS (comes with MSI AB) I use to set FPS limit instead of using Vsync.

Some use ThrottleStop instead of XTU, depends on your desire to twiddle. XTU can be set with undervolt with one drop down to -100mV at stock - and you can tune further if there is more headroom all the way to as much as -220mV at stock, and progressively less undervolt at full OC - -15mV @ 4.5ghz for example. Up the Power limits to 200w for short and long Turbo for full OC power without hacking the BIOS.

ThrottleStop has PROCHOT disable, but I haven't needed that. It has other fun twiddle bits, and is an awesome tool for more advanced tuners - it's not something I've found easy to explain to newbies though so I stick with recommending XTU as a quick download.

Windows 10 constantly breaks software due to updates, and XTU Profile settings application at bootis one of those. W10 breaks auto-start / setting at boot or back from sleep, so there are scripts for startup / back from sleep to get around them:

How to automatically under-volt in XTU without opening it
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-under-volt-in-xtu-without-opening-it.802143/

Have fun

 

tq for kind reply

 

this is how softly built the laptop is.....my charger head dropped lightly on the laptop with the two sticks side and fell on it. Made a dent on the laptop....=_= even my 400$ laptop is more durable

 

u cant notice it cuz when the photo was taken it appears only slightly. It appears more when u close the lid rather than opening it. The hinges are too tight so too much resistance in the hinges brought it apart and now im gonna have to fix it.

 

It's sad how easy it is to dent laptops, but it's been that way for a while. The race for lightness has taken things a bit too far.

If you want a pristine laptop, it needs a sleeve in addition to the carry case, as any weight or pressure put on it by books, Power supplies, or other heavy objects will dent it. Sharp objects will scratch them easily too.

There are heavy use industrial laptops like the Panasonic Toughbooks, but they aren't "gaming" laptops, and have surprisingly low performance components for the most part.

Sorry to see that happen, many have posted far worse, but it's always sad to see.

Be careful lifting your backpack up and swinging that heavy laptop + PSU onto your shoulder too, reports of people whacking things also doing damage come in from time to time. Also happens from plopping down the laptop filled backpack too quickly / heavily. Make sure your backpack has good foam bottom protection in the backpack, or stuff a couple of foam blocks or t-shirts into the bottom compartment under the laptop.

I also don't use the built in keyboard or trackpad's due to getting tired of replacing them - over $100 each - these days I use external wireless and wired keyboard / trackpad combo's. The built-in one's are made for lightness and portability instead of durability. The MSI GT80 / GT83 mechanical keyboard is the exception. The MSI GT75 has a mechanical keyboard too, but it doesn't look as sturdy.

High end gaming laptops are fragile, be careful

 

i do

 

Based on the actual RMA requests from the past, hinge isn't the highest issue here. Also, it's harder to earn positive feedback than negative feedback from customers, because users don't post them unless they encounter problems. So something like a 5-star review is definitely harder to reach as it takes a lot of efforts to reach it.

 

I've had my GS73VR 6RF for about a year and a half. I absolutely love it. It's pretty light, easy to carry around, and has been very reliable.

I have been messing with undervolting for the past year. The only game that gives me grief is Ark. It'll crash when I exit the game while undervolting.. It's weird.

Anyways, I haven't had a chance yet, but looked at the IFIXIT guide. I've been repairing PCs and Laptops for years, so I'm not scared to take my laptop apart. I wanted to know if it was worth swapping out the thermal paste. I'm NOT going to do liquid metal. I'm not sold on it quite yet for anything other than Intel delids. I have Arctic Silver 5. I was also looking at maybe Kryonaut... But has anyone changed the thermal paste on their laptops and actually had noticeable improvements to recommend doing it? I haven't been able to find anything specific to this laptop. Also, have found much on AS5 vs Kryonaut either incase anyone has a resource for that.

Thanks again for everyone's time.

 

I used LM on the CPU and got a 15C improvement. On the GPU I barely got any improvement no matter what paste I used. It's a major chore disabling the GS series laptops, so unless you're having throttling issues, you might want to reconsider.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

Exactly the reason I was asking. I perform well with undervolt. My GPU doesn't have any thermal issues. It's the CPU that gets hot.

It looked like it'd be a chore since everything looks like its between the MB and the keyboard... Nice design.

Thanks for the feedback!

 

Guys, uuuh, I just had CPU 95C, and GPU 91C (!!!). As far as I know GPU temp should never excees 83, what the hell?

 

time for a repaste.

I just repasted mine with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut on the CPU and IC Diamond on the GPU.

I was able to take my CPU to 4.6 GHz stable now = http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...eview-by-phoenix.801314/page-33#post-10690784

 

Yeah, probably not gonna postpone it any longer. 3 months old laptop, what in the world... BTW, why did you use different thermal solutions for CPU and GPU?

 

I didn't get as much of a benefit using LM on the GPU over regular paste. Too risky with little reward. The CPU on the other hand was totally worth it.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

Because you don't wanna put liquid metal on the GPU bro. it's not safe. IC Diamond is more than enough BUT I used the X Cross method for applying IC Diamond on the GPU

The X Cross method is the best in my experience as once the heatsink is fitted, it provides the maximum coverage with the least air bubbles





As for the CPU, I applied a small dot of Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, then using the supplied black Q-Tip, I slowly started expanding that dot to form a thin layer that covers the entire CPU then slapped the heatsink on.

Make sure you clean the CPU and heatsink properly before you start.

 

oh, yeah, totally glossed over the fact that you've used LM on CPU. I think I'm not gonna risk that, will stick to thermal paste on both.

 

That's your wish but I got a 20C reduction in temps with Conductonaut vs IC diamond on the CPU

I've used Liquid metals on all my laptops before, you just have to be careful it's not that scary. As long as you don't drop it on the PCB your're fine and even if you do, simply wipe it with a cotton bud dipped in alcohol and you're good.


Make sure you disconnect the battery before touching any of this.

 

I mean as far as I know even if you do it properly in the long haul it might damage heatsink since it reacts with copper (or smth along these lines).
BTW, does it make sense to undervolt my GPU as well?

 

It doesn't react with copper. Only aluminum, which you can easily insulate it from on this heatsink. There's not so much risk with the CPU as long as you insulate it properly and are very conservative with the amount you use.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

1) Where did you get that? liquid metal should not come in contact with Aluminum not Copper! From the Thermal Grizzly Instructions:



2) I never needed to undervolt my GPU nor did I ever need to overclock it as well. It is powerful as it is and runs cool with the proper paste and thermal paste application (X Cross).

Also, I believe the voltage on the GTX 10XX series is locked so how are you planning to undervolt it?

 

1) Here: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-works-why-it-fails-and-how-to-use-it.809332/ Copper heatsinks section

2) With MSI afterburner you can edit voltage curve of GPU

 

I'm not too worried about the copper reaction. As with any paste job, be sure to monitor your temps from time to time and be prepared to replace it at some point when it's bad.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

I have no time to go through all that thread. Liquid Metal is safe on Copper and not safe on aluminum. Period. If you don't wanna use it, don't.

 

You don't need to, it's in the first post.
I mean, I get it, it's a matter of preference, just pointing out the facts here.

It's been debated whether liquid metals damage copper heatsinks.
They do: over time, the gallium in liquid metal will be absorbed into the copper heatsink, causing the LM to "dry" out.

Let's explain in more detail:
The electrode potential of gallium is -0.53V, nickel is -0.24V, and copper is +0.34V.
The difference between gallium and copper favors a reaction that occurs even at room temperatures.

Obviously, all liquid metals have a high gallium content (plus other metals to reduce the melting point). When the gallium contacts pure copper, the metals irreversibly alloy. This reaction proceeds until there is no more copper or all the gallium is consumed [3].

The reaction is: Ga + Cu → CuGa2 [67%] + Cu3Ga [11%]. ( + Ga2O3 [12%])
Both CuGa products are stable until 175C[3][4].



The means liquid metal will literally eat into the copper until the gallium is gone, and the resulting copper-gallium alloy is a silver-ish color. Yes, - in case you are wondering - the gallium in liquid metal reacts this way despite the fact that there are other metal stabilizers present in LM[5].

The non-gallium components (indium, tin, etc) of the liquid metal[3] which are solid at room temperature will be left behind on the heatsink surface as this process occurs. The formation of this non-gallium metal deposit is most obvious visually when the gallium is totally absorbed into copper. Do note that this residual non-gallium liquid metal is hard and brittle, as you would expect. While this deposit is technically metal and is a good heat conductor, it does not form evenly and therefore it's highly likely that an air gap will also form between the die and the heatsink, and your laptop will hit thermal runaway at this point. This video [link] is a good example of the consequences of this process. This mechanism appears to be the most common cause of long-term failure in LM applications.



Note that at higher temperatures, the invasion of liquid gallium into the copper heatsink only gets faster.[6] Anecdotally, it appears that this process can take anywhere from just a couple months to a year+ until a point of failure is reached.

The factors influencing the speed of this process include obvious ones like temperature, formula of LM used, surface roughness, and amount of LM used. But, the porosity and purityof the copper heatsink may also play a role. Due to all these variables, accurately predicting the rate of erosion for an application of LM is simply not possible.
Here's a graph of the mass fractions of the obtained CuGa alloys at various temperatures (oxygen atmosphere) for you nerds: [link]

This effect is less observed in the classic delidded desktop CPU because the gallium in the liquid metal is far less reactive against the nickle plating of the CPU heatspreader. (The nickle plating is designed to protect the copper against normal solder alloying, but also happens to be effective vs gallium[7]).
If some people tell you that LM 'dries out' while others say it's totally stable, now you know why. LM is fine under a CPU IHS, and its even fine when used between a die and pure copper, but in long-term use it will pit copper surfaces and this can lead to temperatures that stay stable for months but suddenly spike towards the end of the LM's usable life. Again, nickel surfaces are also pitted, but just at a significantly slower rate:

This image: coolaboratory liquid pro after 1 year on a nickel-plated copper heatspreader. The excess LM has been removed to reveal the heatspreader surface. Gallium-Nickel alloying is clearly visible, but the thermal impact of this alloying is likely minimal. If this surface were exposed copper instead of nickel, then the damage would be worse and you may be able to see metal deposits on the surface.

The last interesting things to note are:
1. At 20C, the thermal conductivity of CuGa2 (the principal alloy of gallium and copper) is 98 W/(m⋅K)[1], while copper's thermal conductivity is 400 W/(m⋅K).
2. While we don't know the exact formula for any of the liquid metals, they are all gallium based so they will all attack copper to varying extents.

Conclusions:
1. Liquid metals will visibly degrade the copper heatsink surface over time.
2. Simply buffing the residue off the copper heatsink and reapplying the LM might actually be OK. The CuGa alloy obviously can't match pure copper for heat conduction but it's still way better than solder or thermal paste - the formation of copper-gallium alloy alone should not be the cause of thermal bottlenecks.

It's not clear from my research how deep the gallium attacks into copper. It is clear that LM will alloy with copper and 'dry out'. However, if over multiple applications the gallium can't penetrate its own pitting anymore, then the LM invasion into copper will stop and you can - theoretically - end up with a 'stable' LM application.

 

hey guys it feels tht ever since i installed nahimic 2 , google chrome has been crashing all the time. Uninstalled and installed it again 5 times but still not fixed. any ideas?

 

What if you reset chrome fully?

 

Guys, need an advice.
Repasted my laptop today with Kryonaut (both GPU and CPU) using X method. I was very careful, but there were couple of things that went "wrong":
1) The manual suggested to disconnect battery first, I disconnected it last cause it was hard to do and I almost took motherboard off to disconnect the battery - the laptop was turned off obviously but I'm not sure if it's safe to disconnect other modules with battery connected.
2) When I was repasting the CPU a very small amount of paste ended up on green area of CPU where it's not supposed to, I removed it with a cotton bud, then I removed a hair of cotton with plastic scoop that was in the package with the paste. I didn't spread the paste with it though. Anyway, there might be a small amount of paste left on the CPU on green area - don't know if that's safe.
3) When I re-assembled it but didn't put screws on the bottom cover, I tried turinging it on with no luck - I though I've fried motherboard or something. I've connected the charger - but indicators didn't work either. I've double checked all the connections, screwed the bottom cover back on and the PC turned of although very weirdly. First there was an MSI logo, than it beeped and restared, then it showed MSI logo couple of times and then finally booted up. I've restarted it, it booted up fine, although MSI logo on start-up bugged a bit (like it first disappeared from half a screen). So in short, now it seems to be working, but startups are a bit weird, I fear that I might have done smth wrong especially taking in account a beep and multiple (3-4) restarts on MSI logo during first bootup.

 

Checked again, boots up normally now.

 

If you disconnected the battery, the next boot will be a little weird and requires the laptop to be plugged in. That's normal.

What type of paste are you using that leaked? As long as it's not LM, it doesn't matter.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

Thermal Grizzly Kryonaout, not LM.

Another thing: thermals on GPU are still ****ty. Sport shift, coolerboost, 20 min of overwatch and GPU is on 88. CPU is 85. Should I give some time for paste to "Kick in" or should I already take it to the service and see what's the issue there?

 

CPU seems ok but yeah the GPU is a little high. Like I mentioned before though, I barely got any improvement out of the GPU when I did it either.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

I don't think 88 is a little high, I think it's over the top really. Safe temps for 1060 are up to 83, after which there should be throttling, 95 is when it shuts down. I don't remember having this issue a month ago, GPU never exceeded 83 degrees (I think). Now (I think actually after last driver update) it overhears and I don't know how to solve it.

 

Aand CPU also goes up to 95-96 degrees and throttles

 

guys i need help fast T.T i tried to install linux mint cinnamon today and partitioned my ssd and it was ok. then i tried to dual boot. it was ok. after trying to install linux mint and the process failed and so i restarted my laptop. but when it rebooted. tht appeared and linux nor windows 10pro no longer boots!

 

this appears when i try to boot linux 64bitand it just gets stuck at there and my laptop gets heated.

 

Hi.
For those, who will upgrade WIFI/BT card to Intel 9260 I have god news. I have just transplanted Intel card instead Killer 1535. I have bought Intel® Wireless-AC 9260 card on Aliexpress, I downloaded the newest driver form https://downloadcenter.intel.com/product/99445/Intel-Wireless-AC-9260, switched cards, uninstalled Killer driver, Installed WiFi driver and BT-driver, and it wend seamless.
WiFi work fast, BT-connect with my headphone with aptX connection.
Regards,
tmark

 

hi everybody, anyone knows why sometimes, when the notebook startup the monitor don't works until windows 10 starts???, i need to update the bios, uefi or a driver??, thanks for the help

 

please help
Want to buy but stopped ...
On oficiale site https://www.msi.com/Laptop/GS73VR-7RF-Stealth-Pro.html
MSI GT73VR with 4k screen supports 100% adobe rgb
but why is tested on site: notebookcheck screen have only 61 %
of AdobeRGB ????

that is fake 4k supports 100% adobe rgb ??

 

There are 3 panels listed on their global site.

• 17.3" Full HD (1920x1080), 120 Hz Refresh Rate and 3ms response time panel (Optional)
• 17.3" Full HD (1920x1080), IPS level panel (Optional)
• 17.3" UHD (3840x2160), IPS level panel, 100% Adobe RGB (Optional)

This doesn't mean every region has all of the options available.

 

on site https://www.notebookcheck.net/MSI-GS73VR-7RF-7700HQ-GTX-1060-4K-Laptop-Review.226124.0.html
tested model
MSI GS73VR 7RF (7700HQ, GTX 1060, 4K)
with screen 4к AU Optronics AUO109B as a result -Color space is also good; 97% of the sRGB gamut is covered, while 61% of the AdobeRGB color space can be reproduced.

this is not 100% only 61%

 

Yup, you can contact MSI directly to verify this information with them.
I saw it on notebookcheck.net with the following result.
97% sRGB (Argyll) 61% AdobeRGB 1998 (Argyll)

 

Yo guys! When watching movies, my wifi on+ nahimic seems to cause microstutters. So tired of all those problems tht i no longer can get angry. Any fixes? Thanks In Advance!

 

What if you use LAN without wifi enabled? What if you remove Nahimic from the system?

 

For me it was the WiFi card. Once I changed it, all my problems went away.

 

Derek,thx mate. will check it out
Kevin, i realize ur a comp rep but whts the pt. of using only LAN without wifi. Whats the pt. of still havin my lappy then:'3 nahimic works only with msi r8?

 

btw guys anyone bought the new gs65(is it even released in public yet? )pls share ur exps. its appealing to me but i will try it out later on when it comes out

 

*** The Official MSI GS65 Stealth Owners and Discussions Lounge ***
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...stealth-owners-and-discussions-lounge.815216/