*** The Official MSI GS65 Stealth Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

Closing the lid xd

Or applying almost enough pressure to start moving the lid towards the base. If you're doing that, and the bleed goes away, I think the frame at the bottom is too tight.

 

The laptop cooler helps with airflow so the internal fan doesn't need to work harder therefore keeping the noise at bay. Without the cooler then the system relies on just the internal fan which has to work harder.

 

I bought various sizes of thermal pad. Smaller size does not correct core differential. The smaller size does not even make contact between VRMs or HS.

Sadly changing to smaller pads did NOT correct the problem on my unit.

However my sample size was 1, so scientifically it means absolutely nothing, but just thought I'd share my results.

I got 15 degree core differential I did the following and got it down to about 6 or 8.

I repasted GPU and CPU as well as other parts that had TIM with CoolerMaster MasterGel Maker Nano.

On the CPU and GPU I spread it out with the included spreader making a thin layer and then I added a small 'drop' of the TIM in the middle.

On the heat sink I bent one of the retaining arm up on one end of the tripost design above the CPU and I corrected some of the differential.

I recently ordered a sample of the pressure paper and will test as soon as it arrives. (New Jersey to Brisbane, Australia) so maybe in 2 weeks time.

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

You can never be in a best position because the industry works in opposition to that.

 

@clone1008 - It's rarely a good idea to wait - especially if you don't have a laptop to use right now - always get something now to use now instead of waiting to get something later that you can use later.

When we "wait" for new releases, anticipate new hardware, we all have something we are using that fits our needs from what is available right now.

The "best" is a fleeting thing, and I've seen people waiting for months / years for something better, always finding fault with what is available right now, while millions enjoy what is available right now just fine.

There are problems with new hardware, production issues, design issues, driver and other software issues, so the best is often fraught with problems until those problems are fixed - and by then there is something new here or coming soon that is slightly better.

There is something to be said for consistently buying near the middle or tail end of "the best" - to own it when the bugs are worked out - so that your ownership time is always a positive experience.

Often I see people complaining constantly about what they bought having some problem or another, because they always buy the newest unperfected hardware, so they always need to spend time solving problems first instead of enjoying the use of the hardware for the application they bought it to do.

I buy stuff after the bugs are worked out these days, as opposed to buying the very cutting edge, and I keep hardware long term so I can get many years of quiet joyful use out of the hardware, and I don't miss the performance difference.

The hardware has gotten fast enough long ago, and the effect of changes now are small enough between iterations - especially with Intel - that for the most part I can be fully functional on 10 year old hardware - top of the line 10 year old hardware, but still I don't *need* the newest.

Even with new AMD hardware bringing more cores first, and hopefully higher per core speed next year, the software still runs fine for the most part of slower fewer core count hardware, and will continue to run that software just fine for many years.

For work I use cutting edge stuff, because commercial use needs to be space / power / leveraged, it's a cost / business advantage, but even so much of the % of hardware in place has been in place for many years and working just fine.

So, long story short, buy now, buy often - make sure you keep multiple full systems. Selling often for a smaller depreciation saves money - but holding for long term brings consistency and reliable service you can depend on. Find what works for your use and be happy.

Gaming now is far more fun than not gaming now, it's that simple. Playing the "waiting game" is boring in comparison to actually playing games.

 

I mean waiting is not always that bad though.
If you plan on using your new laptop for a very long time, it wont hurt to wait a few months.

The 9th gen Intel CPUs are nothing worth waiting for. Again 14nm with who knows how many plusses after it already. The only performance gaigns it can offer comes purely from higher clocks (and therefor higher temps).

Ngreedia RTX 2070 maxq /2060 maxq sounds kinda promising, but are they worth the wait? No idea. If you're planning on getting a slim & light laptop, you will propably have to deal with maxq again. The difference between current maxq und rtx maxq wont be that high I believe. But I could be totally wrong with that assumption.

The next thing is... when will such laptops be released? Looking back to 1080/70/60 notebooks, the first few generations werent that great imo. It took years for good slim & light laptops to come with those gpus equipped. So if the first iteration of rtx laptops comes, people will start asking again "should I wait a bit longer for the next release?"

So... you MIGHT get good value out of waiting, but as people already posted, you also could start waiting yourself a never ending circle.

It's your decision to make in the end!

 

At this point and time the best bet is the sure thing, what is available right now. RTX and 9th gen CPU's are too iffy in application that I'd skip them entirely, the waiting part at least - buy some 7th or 8th gen CPU and whatever 10 series GPU fits your gaming needs / budget.

RTX is going to take years to matter, DLSS isn't here either and even when it is it's only for the games featuring DLSS support - and the vast library of existing games won't use it.

I'd let Intel get 10nm out, use 6c/12t mobile CPU's from Intel or better AMD desktop mobile - unfortunately there aren't a lot of choices or variations yet, but they are "good enough" - GL702ZC and Helios 500 Ryzen / Vega to start, and let RTX fizzle for a while.

If anything now is really the best time to buy, at least until 2H19 or 1H20 comes around, which is toooo long to wait.

Waiting sucks, screw waiting.

I've seen too many rationalize waiting for the 2nd gen Pascal for *years*, only to have RTX GPU's cost way more for little improvement, and for mobile the scaling of 12nm vs 14nm Pascal isn't going to amount to much - at least in actual usable FPS.

Even if the mobile RTX GPU's are ok, and de-tuned for thermals 9th gen CPU's show performance improvements in charts, in real use it won't be enough to make a difference from existing tried and true CPU/GPU's. There won't be enough of a power / thermal difference until 10nm/7nm parts arrive.

1060 / 1070 / 1080 + 4c/8t or 6c/12t or AMD 8c/16t with RX / Vega GPU's are more than fast enough to have great gaming experiences, right now.

 

Boring, and stressful as you agonize over your indecisiveness.

 

Bump!

 

I had the exact same dilemma. I have waited around a year for the 2000 series, and I thought it would be released in spring/autumn, but as you know, it didn't. After seeing the performance of current hardware I decided to buy now (I got my MSI GS65 a week ago). With the 1070 max-q you can get a high framerate in all new games. The 2000-series will probably be released next year but you might have to wait months before an attractive model will be released. And the new GPU's will probably include RTX, but is RTX really worth it? You might as well wait another generation before the games will take advantage of it anyway.

However, if you can wait and you do not need a computer that much, then you can just wait of course! But you can wait forever because by the time the new graphics cards are released, a new CPU will be just around the corner..

 

I own a GS65 for a month now. I pretty happy with it - game performance is outstanding. I have few questions though. I didn't go through 287 pages yet.
1) On start up the fan is running at full speed until dragon center is loaded. Is it normal? is there some settings to be changed. It lasts only for a few sec. Still, for a high end laptop it is a weird behavior.
2) The battery charges up to 100%. I read somewhere it should reach 95% and then stop - this is to prolong battery's life. - is it something I can change in settings?
3) If I perform a clean install of windows from usb drive - the MSI recovery is still available? What is a difference between full windows reset and a clean install?
Thanks in advance

 

1) it happens with mine too.. i believe there is quite a good amount of CPU usage with windows loading that ramp ups the temp for a short time.

 

After repasting with coolermaster mastergel I got these temp-results. It is more stable at a lower temperature after repaste, but I still hit above 90c sometimes, and xtu is having a disco party with thermal and power limit throttling. I also cranked up the fanspeed in dragoncenter and im annoyed with a high pitched sound coming from the fan. Is this also a problem for some unlucky ones or is this how it is with all of these laptops?

Edit: i was using the cpu-stresstest in xtu when i took a scrnshot of the temps.

 

What kind of load are those temperatures for?
I had that disco party with thermal and power limit throttling too.
This was with -0.150 undervolt and custom fans.

I am guessing your 3dmark firestrike score is that great either?
14100 after cold boot and around 1700-14000 after repeated tests?


Edit: But again, hitting 90+ *sometimes* is fine. unless its too frequent, for me it was too frequent, simple unzip or browsing on charger would push my laptop beyond 85 and XTU would start having its party.

I simple went for an exchange.
The exchanged laptop has much better thermals.

Thanks,
Vikas Singh

 

How do you guys make the undervolt settings stick??

XTU loses its settings after every reboot or sleep.
I simply re apply it every time, it has become annoying though.

What's to be done for throttlestop to retain its undervolt settings?
If I read correctly, Throttlestop applies undervolt only while its running,
XTU Applies in registry ?

how do I go about with throttle stop?

Thanks,
Vikas Singh

 

They don't, and that's a good thing. You don't want bad settings to stick across reboot attempts.

I use a scheduled tasks which starts ThrottleStop at any user login which I'm pretty sure I cribbed straight from the ThrottleStop Guide. ThrottleStop itself is configured to load my settings at startup. A similar task could be used for starting XTU if that's your preference.

 

Could you link to that guide please?

Thanks

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

 

The ThrottleStop Guide

 

That's probably because you have the Dragon Center installed. Every time you reboot, Dragon Center resets any changes you made for overclocking or even the VR Current Limits. That's why I never install the Dragon Center because for me i9-8950HK, the default VR Current Limit of 144A is not enough to hold the stock clock speed so I need to increase that to 200A but Dragon Center keeps resetting it back to the default upon every reboot so I never install that piece of crap app anymore.

The BIOS has the Watchdog Timer enabled by default so any wrong overclocking settings you do and it will automatically reset them back to default in case of multiple boot failures so you're still safe.

 

I updated the WiFi Killer drivers to the newest version from their website a few days ago due to the fact that it was necessary in order to even start Call of Duty Black Ops 4. Now the game works, but the problem is that the battery life of the computer is now reduced with 1-2 hours in idle mode. I'm not sure why, but I have sent an e-mail to the Killer in order to know if they know about this issue.

 

What is the solution for xtu-users? I am tired of loading the xtu profile at each startup. Im using dragon center to change fanspeeds.

 

Same.

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Reset everything to default in dragon center and uninstall it.

Download Silent Options from MSI to control your fan curve.


http://download.msi.com/uti_exe/SilentOption_v1.0.1603.3101.zip



Then install XTU or Throttlestop.



Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

Does anyone encounter the same kind of a short clicking noise while one of the fans starts to rotate (Left fan in my case [GPU i guess])? I've recorded this thing ( bit.ly/GS65Noise). There's two amplified "takes". Any suggesstions on how to fix it?

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-under-volt-in-xtu-without-opening-it.802143/

I used this thread when I used XTU on my surface book.

But I customized my powershell skript a bit, since my surface would crash when going into standby. So I had the XTU service starting, applying uv and then stopping the service:



$xtu = "C:\Program Files (x86)\Intel\Intel(R) Extreme Tuning Utility\Client\XTUCli.exe"
$status = get-service -name "XTU3SERVICE" | Select-Object {$_.status} | format-wide
if ($status -ne "Running") { start-service -name "XTU3SERVICE"}
$procs = $( Start-Process -FilePath $xtu -PassThru -WindowStyle Hidden -ArgumentList "-t", "-id", "34", "-v", "-90";
Start-Process -FilePath $xtu -PassThru -WindowStyle Hidden -ArgumentList "-t", "-id", "83", "-v", "-60")
$procs | Wait-Process
Stop-Service -Name "XTU3SERVICE"
exit



the -90 one is CPU, and -60 GPU. But there are some other IDs that correspond to things like System Agent, cache etc.

There's a list of IDs on the 5th page of the linked thread.

(You don't need the whole vbs thing if you want to apply this. Just do the powershell bit and it's fine. If you want the powershell window to be hidden, copy the arguments (-WindowStyle Hidden, u might even pass this argument via the "argument" field on task scheduler) that I used there)

 

Hey guys, could anyone confim is this normal behaviour? This is my GS65 during software uninstall process No undervolting or something applied, just custom dragon center fan profile (slightly pushed up).



It's just seems strange to me when cooling fans become so loud on such tasks like uninstalling software or web browsing etc. Idle tepms I believe are OK.

I'm also noticed the Fan 1 is a bit slower than fan 2 in "Cooler Boost" mode. It varies between 6000 and 6200 rpm. Is that OK?

 

Once the fans kick in the temperature will get more stable, cool down the systems and the fans will start to decrease RPMs as the temperature drops.

Fan 1 tops at around 6200 and fan two goes to 6400 with 75 RPM variations amongst both. That is normal, mine does the same.

If I close the laptop and connect it to an external display I get even higher RPMs. Seems the fan compensate for reduced ventilation when lid is closed.


So Fan 2 will go 6400 6325 6400 6175 6400 etc. Mine does this.

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Thanks! Yes I understand the way the cooling system operates, but I think my concern is the temperatures (and the annoying fans as a consequence ). Is that a common scenario, that on stock settings i'm geting this particular temperature spikes? If not I'd like to figure out what causes these jumps...

 

Seems unnecessary for my situation.
Wouldn't it be better to Uninstall dragoncentre and control the fans with a different program? What are the alternatives to dragoncentre when I'm only using it to set a curve for the fans?

Edit: didn't see xlima's post above before I wrote this.

 

It is normal, you can mitigate the spikes by setting a more aggressive fan curve. Say 30 45 60 75 100 150 or higher starting so you don't reach such high temperature.

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I tried to pay attention to it, and I have noticed the same. When the left fan starts to spin, I hear the same noise as you. Therefore, I guess it is normal? You can always go to Dragon Center and set it to "ECO mode". Then the fan will stop spinning up and down all the time, when you are just browsing.

 

I've found two solutions. First is to set the 1st bar in GPU fan curve setup to 1% and it starts to rotate constantly at 2060 rpm and never stops. Or you could reduce first two bars to 0% so it's never turns on in most cases. But tbh I'm not sure about both of these methods, is it worth it?

 

If you are annoyed by it, you can do it. However, I really think it is a minor issue But it is always nice to know that there is a potential fix, and that our products are not defective.

 

I'ts not a big deal for me, but the question is whether this "squeaky start" will affect fan's wear or not...

 

@ThatOldGuy started a thread to support direct application of settings at boot without relying on the XTU startup feature - Windows 10 keeps breaking it:

How to automatically under-volt in XTU without opening it
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-under-volt-in-xtu-without-opening-it.802143/

There are a number of posts with updates and suggestions on how others applied this for their needs in that thread. Enjoy.

Also a good idea, MSI Dragon Gaming Center uses XTU and can interfere with XTU settings made that differ, and although I've successfully used both - making settings first in DGC and then extend via XTU work for me - I found that any deviation from what works requires redoing it again, and again, so it's best to just be done with DGC and rely on XTU (or throttlestop) + MSI Afterburner + Silent Option.

I haven't needed to use the @ThatOldGuy ' s method either, but I am used to getting into XTU at boot as needed to re-select and Apply a profile as I change them from time to time anyway.

YMMV.

 

Thanks for the info. The cpu-fan is starting to rattle and above 80% fanspeed it makes a high pitched sound as well. I had to change the fan on my previous, 5 years old MSI laptop. Was hoping i didnt have to do it on this one..

What do you do to optimize the ssd's? I installed 970 evo. Do I have to do anything to optimize the performance ?

 

If you like to twiddle with optimizing, you can use some SSD optimization software, which run a write optimization constantly as well as having the option to manually optimize occasionally, as well as boot time optimizations:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...ation-perfect-disk.771762/page-2#post-9937953

I don't have this set up any longer, I can't give current suggestions or help, but you might enjoy playing with it. There might be newer products that work better or cheaper, google starting with this and see if there are any newer optimizers.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/ssd-optimization-perfect-disk-vs-o-o-defrag.761619/

IDK if @Ultra Male is doing this any longer either, maybe he might have some more current suggestions?

 

Old but still valid
The SSD Optimization Guide Ultimate Windows 8 (And Win7) Edition

TweakTown's Ultimate Windows SSD Performance Installation Guide

 

Hi!
I´m getting PL2 on core and EDP OTHER on ring (throttlestop). Also my ghz drops to -2.20 sometimes when that happens (from xtu graph). This happens even when just doing some light browsing. Any clues why its power limit throttling? I thought that I might´ve undervolted too much so I changed my 0.185 V undervolt to 0.180 V.

ps. I would attach screenshots but it doesn´t seem to be working. :|

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/index.php?posts/10822399

Try this post.

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Thanks for the reply! I wanted to follow hackness guide to unlock the bios but couldn´t find the key combo anywhere. If someone could PM me it I would be eternally greatful. Also do I have to reset all the changes I made in throttlestop if I want to unlock the bios or does it not matter?

If my understanding is correct, undervolting too much in bios could brick my device and I would need SIP programming to get it working again? In that case if I follow hackness guide and undervolt in throttlestop I should be safe?

 

Mine made that sound out of the box. 23days later, it suddenly became a very loud grinding sound that is persistent at any fan speed. Haven't gamed too much, don't use cooler boost for more than 20-30secs after a session, fan profile isn't above 105%, undervolted -.185v with multipliers at 36 or less...Just simply shouldn't have happened.

The real kicker is that this is a factory refurbished model; so it's goin back to the mothership for at least its second time to be "made right". Quite a sour taste from this. Certainly does not instill confidence in their products or ability to fix defected products. Just bought a GF63 for the wife too and now question if that wasn't wise...

How is dealing with MSI? I am going to expontentially angrier if I have to open this machine another two times to pull my Samsung NVMe drive & ram and then reinstall. I'm worriedly that if they replace the machine, they'll keep my upgraded ram and drive.

Anybody with experience with MSI warranty repairs on factory refurbished machines? Feeling really screwed over right now...

 

PM sent.

Also do I have to reset all the changes I made in throttlestop if I want to unlock the bios or does it not matter?

- Depends on the changes you made.

If my understanding is correct, undervolting too much in bios could brick my device.

- Correct, it is much safer to do so through XTU or Throttlestop because you can revert the changes if unstable. Via BIOS you could undervolt so much that you can't access the BIOS before the system shuts off.

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I am interested in getting this laptop but wanted to know whats the downside of buying the version available at Best Buy vs. Newegg and other retailers? The Best Buy one is on sale for 1850 and includes the 1070 and 512 SSD. I can get the same thing at Newegg but it'd only have a 256GB SSD and is 1,999. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

Watch the drives, ram speed, and wifi cards as they can vary between the models.

Example:BestBuy model has 2400mhz ram vs 2666mhz, Intel wifi vs killer, and Sata SSD vs NVMe.

Newegg is probably a NVMe SSD and 2666mhz ram. In,ess something has changed, the Killer and Intel wifi are the same 9560 card with different drivers. I'd rather have the Intel; Killer drivers can be less than desirable.

 

I'm having a weird issue over the last couple of weeks where my laptop freezes up for around 5 seconds (there's no switching between Intel/nVidia happening as far as I can tell because the light colour doesn't change). It happens everywhere - in games, in Chrome, or just while idling, maybe once every 15-20 minutes, and is really annoying. Machine is completely unresponsive for around 5 seconds, and then moves on like nothing happened. Anyone else facing anything similar?

 

Go easy on the undervolting a bit.

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What's the CPU temp like when this happens? Perhaps heat throttling. Run something like HWmonitor and watch your highs.

Make sure all drivers are up to date. Update Intel video drivers defore Nvidia's.

I had an issue on my GS65 where file explorer was extremely slow to open(10+sec on Samsung 970) Noticed it kept kicking on the 1070. Updated Nvidia driver and file explorer opens blazing fast, like it ought to on this setup. Moral is, bad drivers=funny occurances.

If you undervolted, undo it, update drivers, see if it still occurs...then go back to toying with undervolt. You can get funny behavior without a BSOD when on the brink of too little juice.

 

Just happened again, the temperatures seem fairly stable, around 40-45 degrees when this happens. Also, it appears that the system isn't frozen, it's just the trackpad that's frozen and then started working again. I'm thinking maybe a driver issue. Are there any logs I could find and analyse to see if the trackpad drivers have stopped and restarted?

I'd update the drivers, but I'm a bit wary of trackpad drivers because of horrible experiences I've had with Dell drivers on my old Alienware 13.

 

Which is not much of a practical difference on this machine.

Which I lists as a definite plus. Killer software is garbage (which reminds me that I need to get a basic Intel NIC for my Aurora so I can rip out the Killer garbage there).

Like the RAM this is not much of a practical difference on this machine.

The only practical reason I have for not getting the Best Buy edition is if you want to populate the second drive socket because disassembly and reassembly is tedious.