*** The Official MSI GS65 Stealth Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

Perfect! Thank you!

 

Woohoo! Via bios Thanks again!

 

Anyone have a calibration profile for the AUO80ED, they are willing to share?

 

Have you tried the one from Notebookcheck? You can find specifics in the review.
Having said that, keep in mind that for optimal results calibration should be done on a case by case basis, so your mileage may vary.
Hope this helps!

 

So, at the end its possible put the 8750H in 4,1Ghz in all 6 cores?



@Falkentyne @Papusan

 

Nope. And validate online. See orange “Unchecked”. Should be “Validated” in Green.

 

So, you are saying that is fake?

http://hwbot.org/submission/3990436_theredbaron_cpu_frequency_core_i7_8750h_4094.01_mhz

There is another 2 guys with the same result, so possible they found a way to put all the corres with max overclock.

 

If you don’t submit directly (online validation) the chips don’t get any load on the cores.
http://hwbot.org/submission/3931764_leleka_turbo_cpu_frequency_core_i7_8750h_4092.01_mhz
Edit.

 

Ok, and about the other 2 guys, they have the green symbol...you have any idea in how is this possible? On cpu-z pic show 6 cores.

 

See my edit. Just run Cinebench and follow clocks in real-time. You can’t make eggs of bacon.

 

Ok, i understood now with your edit, but how you explain that they have 41x multipliers with 6 cores in cpu-z app?

Cpu-z pic from my laptop, i cant put multiplier at 41x with 6 cores.

 

Don’t trust monitoring software. Polling frequency too slow. Max load in benchmarks as Cinebench/Wprime 1024M will show the real clock speed.
Load on more cores will decrease showing clock speed.

 

hello chaps, i just bought a brand new, fully kitted GS65-8RF with samsung 512GB ssd, 32GB 2666Mhz rams, and killer 1550i lan card from amazon UK. it doesn't have the finger print reader though. after clean windows 10 pro installation, awful driver support(i had to use DPS even after getting the "Latest" drivers just to get it somewhat right because GS65 support page is bloody disappointing. even the newest drivers are 3-5months old!) i just appiled LM last night but i'm not satisfied with the end result. cpu/gpu still idles at near 50 degree Celsius! thought resitting the heatsink would help but NOPE

now, is there any alternative to dragon center? it can't change its profiles automatically depending on work load. so, in eco mode, it won't let the cpu go over 1.1Ghz. then again, other modes won't let the cpu run under 2.8ghz even when there are no load. i tried to use speed fan after completely removing dragon center but it won't even detect the any of the three fans. what do i do? why can't MSi make something useful like the afterburner anymore? i'd happily take afterburner if it could control cpu fans too.

however, i HAVE found somewhat of a solution to that awful creaking noise whenever you put your palms on the bottom of the keyboard. just use some non conductive grease on the plastic clips inside and VIOLA... i don't know how long it will stay silent but it works.. for now

i'd greatly appreciate if you fella's know any alternatives to dragon center as it's fan curves are crap compared to afterburner. i've been using afterburner for a long time on my desktop with multiple gpu's from multiple vendors and it has never let me down.

About 8750H

i've never seen any other intel cpu having power limit throttling on default mode in XTU while running benchmark. now i don't know if i should downvolt the cpu to keep it running cooler. i had an Aorus X5-V8 (returned it cause it was way too heavy to carry around everyday for Uni work) it comes with a 8850H. excellent cpu, needs whole a lot more cooling, yet after appling LM it was idling at around 35 degree Celsius. WTF is wrong with 8750h? is it the same with every device that comes with this particular cpu?

Should i return it? aero 15x or razer blade 15 comes with 8750H too. or if you have any idea to keep it cool and dandy please let me know

 

Undervolt the cpu and use silent option app for fans.

 

ya i tried undervolting but since it throttles on power limit, i didn't dare to go further than -125v. i cant even underclock it like the 8850H since it doesn't allow underclocking. i don't fully understand throttlestop though but i've seen it allows underclocking 8750H

 

Also -- my best buy sku memory actually was 2666 Samsung.

 

You don't underclock. You reduce the turbo multipliers. They're on the FIVR panel.

 

Hey again,

Just wanted some information about the GPU.
I have 1070 Max Q in my system.
Running MSI Kombuster and viewing GPU-z Sensors immediately shows perfcap reason - PWR and the the gpu never hits it boost clock (i believe this is 1544 MHZ).

Is this normal? Can this limit be bypassed?

Thank you.

 

If cooler boost works your hypothesis about the heat might be correct. You could try to open up the back panel, and clean the fans with compressed air in order to get rid of the dust . I think that might help!

And now something completely different to everyone: Earlier in this thread I saw people discussing the perfect case for the MSI GS65. After extensive research, I believe I have found it: https://www.amazon.com/CAISON-Pavilion-Inpiron-IdeaPad-Chromebook/dp/B07D4G1CPS?th=1
It just arrived today, and it fits perfectly!

@isaac Your description of the computer sounds completely normal. Why do you worry about the temperatures? It is designed to run this way! The majority of people with a MSI GS65 do not tamper with the voltage or hardware, and I think (and hope) it will work for many years anyway (at least I hope so).
However, Aero 15X is definitely cooler, but also definitely way uglier and louder .

 

Thanks!

Mine came yesterday, works perfect.

 

Are you going to do the undervolt mod?

 

Thank post was in response to xLink's case reccomendation

I did undervolt using XTU at first, but because most of my computationally expensive stuff is in Ubuntu, I moved the undervolt over to the BIOS.

Prime95 and idle test were stable at -.185 in windows -- In Ubunutu running deep learning loads I ran into a black screen at -.185 so I backed off to -.175 and is has been rock solid so far

Love this machine.

 

The idle temp seems very nice.. mine idles at 40-45 woth -0.150 undervolt, fans set to auto, and shift set to comfort

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

 

That was encouraging,After other too suggesting that my temperatures were fine,
I still decided to have it exchanged from best buy and I am glad I did.

Putting it out to everyone who think they are having problems.
Warning: This is a long read.


Previous Laptop , Reasons for exchange:
1: The lid had finger prints right out of the box
2: Had a noticeable screen bleed at the bottom.
3: The Power Button had a funny flimsy click where I had to press it a certain way for it to go completely down.
4: Under fan profile set to "Auto" , and shift set to "Sport", the CPU would frequently go beyond 85 and start thermal throttling (as per XTU) While this was 4: sporadic, it was quite frequent. This was while doing simple tasks like having a couple of tabs open in edge, unzipping files, and writing a post here on this forum. Idle temps at shift: Comfort and fan: auto = 45, Idle temps at sport shift and auto fan = 45-50
5:Setting custom fan curves with Dragon Center helped, but during gaming (Shadow of the Tomb Raider) , I would see the same behavior, only this time, the higher temperature were sustained for a longer time. Undervolting by -0.150 helped but not a lot (Read point 8)
6: I noticed that the laptop would oddly use the GPU a lot frequently (and consistently) even while web browsing etc (checked this by monitoring the power led turning to amber) . It did use the onboard graphics, but not that much.
7: I noticed that Fan 2 would rarely spin up, it did under benchmark and gaming., setting to Cooler boost would make Fan 1 spin at 6400rpm and fan2 at 5900-6000. The exhaust on the right side was significant while on the left was barely noticeable. I guessing a bad fit of the case? causing not enough passage of air for the exhaust? The top noticeably cooler to touch on the older laptop, again I am guessing not enough air circulation for the heat to escape coupled with lower fan speeds on auto setting?
8: Benchmark Scores: I know I should not be a "oh but it benchmarks higher" kinda snob but that's what finally pushed me for the exchange.
so with -0.150v undervolt and custom fan profile (every bar dialed up by5-10% with the last one dialed up to 95%), my 3d mark combined scores in firestrike were around 12000 with graphic score around 139000 and 14000 with thermal behavior as described above. This was simply not acceptable to me given that I had already undervolted and set custom fan curves while many reviews that I read had graphics score around 14500-14800.


I finally said to myself, even if a stop being a paranoid ass, the screen bleed, fingerprints and funny power button were enough to warrant an exchange. If I am paying 1800$ for a laptop, it should at least have the basic build quality right ( not gonna comment on the durability of build yet).

Now comes the exchanged laptop

1: no fingerprints!
2: very little screen bleed
3: Power button fit was perfect, a single click tick!
4: No more intermittent and frequent temperature jumps to 85+ to 90 causing thermal throttling. Idle temp with comfort shift and auto fan : 39-42, Idle temps with sport shift and auto fan : 40-45. It does have the temperature jumps, but not enough to cause thermal throttling under normal load.
5: Applied -0.150 undervolt and set custom fan profile for CPU. It still thermal throttles, but the temps are largely constant around 85.
6: This piece uses the GPU a lot less. Like a lot lot less!. normal browsing, file unzipping etc, the power led is almost always white unless gaming or benchmarking
7: Fan behavior were quite different on this one. While Fan 2 again spun up less frequently than Fan 1, I noticed it would do so more frequently than the previous one. While the previous fan would main temps around 65-75 during normal usage (auto fan) with just a single Fan 1 spinning up to around 2400, this one was happy to release both the whirlwinds at around 2400-2500. Temperatures however are lower at 60-75 during normal usage.
I believe this is a single negative I have with the new laptop. more fan rpm (under auto) to maintain the same temperatures? Correct me If I am wrong please
I also notice that this peice has a considerably warmer top on the left and the right side. On Cooler Boost, Fan 1 spins at 5945 and Fan2 @ 6400. and I can feel the increased airflow from the vents on both sides where as just from rright side on the previous laptop.
8: Benchmark scores are better and almost on par with the review of this laptop.
With -0.150 undervolt, custom fan profiles, Sport Shift,
Firestrike Combined score : 12500-12800s
FireStrike Graphics score: 14300-14400

Gaming on this with Forza Horizon 4, I get a nice 75-94 (ocassionally 110) fps on ultra settings with dynamic graphics set to OFF with CPU hovering at 84-86 (sometimes over 91C for a split second) and GPU at 75-80. Fans as usual are in all their whirry glory though.


Hope this helps someone to identify similar patterns and decide if a replacement/exchange is needed.

One very interesting thing that I though should include is,

The previous laptop was missing MSI SCM
The new laptop had the "review on bestbuy, get a steelseries headset" pamphlet inside, although expired on October 30th. It also had a couple of older drivers (Even the Dragon Center was 2.0, latest is 2.1 installed in previous laptop) which makes me believe that this was manufactured and packaged much before.


Do we have a documented SKU/ model number/ serial number range for this laptop which can help us identify different patterns that exists in different manufactured batches??

And Finally, thanks a lot, this forum has been very helpful.

Cheers!

 

Glad to hear you had a better experience the second time around

 

Anybody have any insight on how to crank the fans up in linux (Ubuntu)? Thermal monitoring + super quiet fans make me think a custom curve would help, but I've exhausted google and no help.... SoL?

Thanks.

 

You have to program the EC RAM directly in the fan curve space. No one knows how to do that. You can access the EC RAM in RW Everything. The curves are simple enough, with hexadecimal values (convert to decimal for temps) for temperature cutoffs to the next curve point, and then fan speed points. For example, a 64 in the curves space usually means 100% fan speed or 100C CPU temp, as 64 hex is 100 decimal. But there are also different values in another place for whether the fans are on stock automatic, or custom curves. Maybe someone has a linux program that will.

 

You have balls of steel my friend. Did you really undervolt your CPU through the BIOS?
I was told that if the value is too "great", you effectively brick your motherboard, since the GS65 apparently doesn't allow reverting BIOS settings back without getting into it.

And someone (so I was told) tried to do the same thing using his XTU values to undervolt through the BIOS, but he didn't have as much luck as you.

Maybe I should do the same... I don't like additional Apps running in the background.

 

Btw. what fan curve are you guys using on the CPU?
When I set the fanspeed to 0% on the first or both first and second bar, the fan at some point keeps shutting down, starting up again for a while, shutting down again and so forth...
The starting up also make like this short crackling sound... which gets annoying after a time.

Should I slam the 3rd Bar to 0% too? Or let the fan run at 30% on the 1st bar? (Don't want the fans to die fast though)

The GPU seems to not have any similar problem at 0%.

And does anyone know what Temperature those bars represent? If I knew those, i could set up my curves more precisely.

 

Fan speeds temps by slider are somewhere in the thread, can't remember where though.

Per undervolt in BIOS -- I need it for computationally heavy loads in Ubunutu, so a Windows undervolt doesn't really matter to me. I didn't like the cut of any of the Ubuntu software options... I also read all the testing stuff I could find on here and really put it through its paces with the settings in UTX that I then transferred to BIOS after deleting UTX from the machine.... Loooong ago OCed a couple machines in BIOS and as long as you were careful it was pretty safe. This is safer than that cause you shouldn't fry anything, I should think though what do I know

 

JRey on page 209 posted an Excel

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

Check your manufacture date on the underside of the laptop. 2018-03 and earlier have a manufacturing defect with the keyboard Rivet and flex cable, where there is a rivet on the chassis that damages the flex cable over time.

Between 2018-04 and 2018-06 I am uncertain if it was addressed.

I know 2018-07 revision and onwards the issue was fixed.

Good luck and glad to hear you are much happier with results!

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

2018-06. :/

Is that defect very concerning?
Should I exchange this again?

Can anyone else confirm this?

Thanks,
Vikas Singh

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

 

https://www.reddit.com/r/MSILaptops...enterfn_key_issues/?utm_source=reddit-android

This is what I am talking about..


Edit: if you end up checking please post your results as to know if it was addressed in the 2018-06 batches. Thanks!

 

This issue has affected most MSI laptops ever since the GT72VR and even others before that. My GT73VR needed some love done on the cable to stop a few key matrixes from being intermittent or not working.
Check the official MSI forums. There are a whole bunch of complaints about various SKU's having keys not working right.

And there should be lots of complaints. These laptops as assembled on a factory line. Each and every laptop will potentially have the exact same flaw, only not having it depending on variances on how the mainboard was inserted into the chassis.

 

Very nice! I also just ran Fire Strike and I got a final score of 12502 and a graphics score on 14219. This is without undervolting and the fans set to auto, so it seems that I have a laptop from a fine batch (it says 2018-10 underneath my laptop).

 

Yes you might have a really good batch. What' your manufacturing date? I get that kind of score on stock settings only after a cold boot.

With a stable -0.150v undervolt and custom fans.. I can maintain 14200-14400 with very limited throttling.

It would be interesting to observe the thermals in warmer days. Right now the room temperature is about 65-70F.

I wonder how this laptop behaves in my home country where the ambient temperatures are easily above 90F. And price is 1.5x higher aswell. People there would surely be disappointed with its performance then.

I can go upto -0.160v but it gives me a BSOD very randomly, and strangely enough, not while gaming. one definite place I do get a BSOD is while clicking on the battery icon. Some times the menu pops up with a slight jitter, sometimes BSOD lol. Don't know what's up with that. But I am happy with what I have with me now.


I would try reducing the multipliers after some days. But given that Forza 4 easily pushes laptop above 3.7Ghz, i don't want to hold it back.

You should definitely try undervolting. Do Keep us posted of the result

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

 

Can anyone suggest a good cooling pad for this.
The one I had for my previos laptop from cooler master only ended up making my laptop run hotter. I would simply elevate the laptop then.


Has anyone tried using a cooling pad with gs65?

Thanks,
Vikas Singh

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

 

I'm using this one: https://www.amazon.com/⭐️KLIM-Wind-...340_QL65&keywords=cooling+pad+klim&psc=1&th=1

Serves me pretty well. You also can turn off a row, so I only have the upper ones blowing air to my GS65.

 

Did you notice any temperature difference?

Especially with the pad vs just having the laptop elevated?

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Notepal U3 or U3+ (U3 is slightly better designed but good luck finding one) with custom 120mm fans and a fan filter made by @Papusan (he'll sell you one, I promise is probably the best.
Just don't expect to use it in your lap.

BTW the stock fans on the U3+ are useless. They move absolutely no air.

 

Definetly yeah. Also the laptop fan has a lower speed since it's getting enough air with a lower rpm. But I don't know how it would behave on an overheating system, since I optimized mine to always stay at mid to hight 70 on cpu and low to mid 70 on the gpu.
You could try just elevating you laptop. That should help it getting fresh air more easily.

Because I use my gs65 as a desktop pc with connected external display and stuff 50% of the time, I thought a cooling pad would be the best solution for it to rest on.

 

Quick question from the real smart people in here. With it being this late in the year would this still be a good choice or should I wait a bit for the new models/processors?

 

I have p65 and its my first laptop in 4 years. I dont know what faults to look for. Im happy with it except for temps. Falkentyne has been very helpful in this thread, and I have two questions right now:

- I know i should replace the pads preventing three cores to get enough contact with the heatsink. I know they should be 0,5mm. But what other specs should I look for when buying thermal pads? Can someone link one that is recommended?

I already got cooleraster mastergel maker, but Im going to wait with the repaste if I need to replace the thermal pads too.

- is this too much backlight bleed? (
https://imgur.com/KV1OUnF

 

Waiting for new models is never a valid reason not to buy "now" becuase there will always be new models coming soon.

 

I totally understand what you're saying but I was just asking in case we are within a couple of months of any major changes coming. It's not like I have to have one....I would like to have one, the best position to be in.

 

Going by that. It isn't that bad. You need to check against completely black background.. my previous laptop had a bleed at similar location.. but a very strong one.

My exchanged laptip has one on the left corner and and one between the middle and the right corner but are milder and more spread out.. hence doesn't affect me much

Before fiddling with the internals., Try an undervolt of -0.150. and setting custom fan curves

A simple setting would be to crank up the cpu fan bars(except the first one) by 5-8 percent. With the last one between 85-90%. I also cranked up the gpu fan bars (except the first one ) by 5%

With these settings, i have my cpu and gpu at 75-80 during extended Forza Horizon 4 settings. Without them? 85-90 for cpu 80-85 for gpu.

No repasting, no thermal pads.



Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

 

My first GS65 had ips glow on the bottom left and right corner (no idead how an ahva panel can even have ips glow). The second (current) one had 0 backlight and no ips glow at all.
But also keep in mind, cameras always capture "more bleed" than the naked eye can see.

If it bothers you and you can exchange it with a new one, do it. Otherwise, it doen't look that bad. But if you can see the bleed with a normal picture displayed too, I personally would go for a new one.

My faulty unit also stopped bleeding when I did the "closing lid" motion. Not sure how to describe, but the little bend that happened while closing the lid, relieved the bottom frame so that the display stopped bleeding/glowing. But once stopped closing, it started glwing happily again.

 

Can you describe this motion a bit more? Do you do it always?

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I have already undervolted to - 0,150 but the temp difference between core 0,2,4 and 1,3,5 is 12c! Do you have these differences?