*** The Official MSI GS65 Stealth Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

Hi! I’m going to buy it next week but I have some questions about undervolting it!

What program do you recommend to do it? I’ve seen XTU doesn’t maintain de undervolting once you reboot the system but I don’t know if throttlestop is safe!

And whay voltage do you use?
I saw -0.150 is a good and reasonable amount for this laptop!

Thanks!

 

You will most definitely enjoy your upcoming purchase!!

Use Throttlestop.( http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/the-throttlestop-guide.531329/)

You can set Throttlestop to start automatically on reboot.

Actual amount of undervolt is hit or miss. You will have to run a parameter study and just converge on it. Pick a voltage; run a stress test like Heaven. If no BSOD, you should be good. If a Blue Screen of Death comes up, lower the votage by 10 mv.

Here's a good tutorial:

 

1080 gaming box isn’t powerful enough to run 4K. You’ll need to get 1080ti to have good 4K gaming experience, not every triple A titles will run smoothly 50~FPS though, maybe you’ll need Turing GPU.
About eGPU issue, i think it’s more nvidia drivers compatibility issue than eGPU. After unplugging your laptop only detect igpu and you have to reinstall it again don’t you? Try again plugging it and after plugging your gaming box install nvidia driver again. That solved the similar issue on core v2 and Blade 15.

 

Hi! Thanks for answering! I’ll use throttlestop for sure!

hi! Thanks for answering, I’ll use throttle stop for sure but about the core voltage I saw -0.150mv is the quantity for this laptop, it’s right? Thabksn

 

You'll have to try it as a starting point. Not every CPU has the same quality. You may end up being lower, or you might be able to go higher. You have to use trial and error to converge on your sweet spot.

 

Oh thanks! I was thinking as it’s the same CPU for everyone we all have the same core voltage, sorry for noob question xd thanks!

 

With 1.5mm of Arctic pads lining the heat sink bracket on the bottom of the mainboard my CPU package and GPU temps are down about 1C. Which means that the cooling system is doing a good job and little heat is "leaking" through the mainboard -- and that the cooling pad trick doesn't do much.

 

No. Intel sets the default voltage for a given processor SKU high enough that all processors with that SKU will run properly. Undervolting exploits the fact that few if any actually need this much power, but how much power is needed varies from processor to processor.

 

Checking in to see if anyone's having this issue I've been facing for about a week. Can't think of any definitive way to replicate it, but many times when I put the laptop to sleep, I get no display when it wakes, and have to reboot by pressing down power button. Since there's no disk activity LED (really don't understand why manufacturers are dropping this one), I can't tell whether it's just the display that's switched off or the laptop's frozen. Keyboard lights up and changes colour scheme if I press the Steelseries engine button. It goes back to sleep if I press the sleep button. So it would appear it's not frozen, just no display. But no way to tell.

This has happened maybe three times this week. The only thing I can think of that has changed since last week is that I increased my undervolt from 100mV to 120mV on ThrottleStop. Could that be causing it?

 

Please let me know how this pans out and what response you get from MSI. I'm facing something similar where around 15 keys have a red tinge to them at all times. All the diodes work, but the red overpowers any colours it's set to. I just set it to a dynamic theme so I can't tell the difference, but the issue is there. I'm told this is an issue with the ribbon cable in the keyboard, but I'd like to no what the diagnosis is in your case too.

 

Thanks everyone!

And the last question, if I’m trying and I put for example -0.100mv and I get blue screen, will throttle stop take my pc back to the normal core voltage?

Cause if not I will get blue screen every time, I’ve seen XTU has like a safe thing that if you get a blue screen it automatically take the pc back to the default voltage so you can reboot it with normality.

 

TS applies the settings everytime you open it, not as XTU which writes them into the CPU so with TS until you run it your laptop starts as stock

 

been playing around with this laptop for about 3 weeks now, these are my throttlestop settings. just want to make sure am I really running at -.200mv or is there something I missed? kinda new to this. I blue screened at -.205 so i put it back down here

 

If you are limiting it to 3.2ghz then there is no problem with -200mv. In fact as soon as you start decreasing from -180mv (if my memory does not betray me) the max turbo speed decreases.

 

I saw a video to learn how to create a Windows task you every time you log on it opens automatically!

Im thinking it’s easier than I was think, just try without making the task and once I have the correct value I make it

Thanks!

 

good to know, thanks

 

Depends on how you put up TS, sir. Let's say if you created a ThrottleStop task with Task Scheduler (eg on log on)... If you put up an very unstable undervolt without proper testing (worked half baked)... Once you rebooted or started up the day after you can/could risk Windows freezes due the lack of needed voltage in your preferred TS startup profile.

Your only hope to be able to use Windows is to start up in Windows safe mode first and then remove the TS ini file. Not all people run TS exactly the way you do

 

When disconnecting headphones my GS65 made some horrible extremely loud popping, squealing noises like speakers where about to die.
Now anything played above 1% volume same thing repeats. Even at 1% sound is distorted muffled. Any one encountered this problems ?

I've reinstalled drivers, nahimic several times :/

On headphones it sounds normal.

 

Are you using 48000Hz 24 bits? Or Did you enable atmos that came with Windows?

 

No change in any settings it happened when I've unpluged headphones.

 

Just received mine, I guess my unit has the fan whine as other user has noticed on his unit, seems to come from the little fan of the gpu. Also the Optimus switching is very noticiable. I have updated the Intel & nvidia drivers to the latests and now I'm updating Windows.

 

If someone is interested in decrease your temps just let me know. I was researching hours and hours, and this is the result. PUBG on ULTRA settings (1080p): GPU temps: 65° ~ 69°C. CPU temps: 63° ~ 68°C. Ambiental temp: 22°C.

https://ibb.co/fMQXCp

https://ibb.co/eeGuQ9

 

Thinking about purchasing this laptop. How’s the overall chassis of it after a couple of months? Everything still holding up? I heard the build quality wasn’t great.

 

Please post your setup for the other users to see.

 

I’ve traveled with mine on a half dozen plane rides and it still looks and feels new. Just remember, it’s a slim and light notebook, not a tough book. Treat it right and you’ll be fine.

 

How?

 

Has anyone noticed annoying sounds from the screen hinges, when you wiggle the screen backwards and forwards?

 

I would like to know also. Really nice cpu temp, congratulations.
Ambiental temp are also low for this season... I got +8°C in my scenario...

 

Anybody have battery drain during sleep issues? I closed the lid yesterday, 18 hours later its down from 100 to 70%. And over the weekend, opened it up 2 days after it sleep and it had went from 100 to 50%, then a day and a half later from 50 to 5%.
Yesterady I made sure it went to sleep, cracked the lid a tiny bit and saw the light going from white to red, and then to turn it on today it had went into hibernate i think, i had to press the power button to wake it up, and it came right up with all my stuff still open.
Hmmm, haven't had battery drain issues on my previous laptops unless they woke themselves up, which it doens't seem like this is happening
Im all up to date on all updates

 

Hmm. I'd look at the system logs for events indicating that it had slept and also if it had been waking at all.
Have you checked your power settings? Maybe something changed what the lid closing does, and it sat there until it went to sleep via time.
Also, look for new software that might be interfering with sleep and/or postponing it.

 

The logs show every time it wakes up 1 second after it sleeps - though it looks like the computer stays asleep, nothing turns on the and white power light fades in and out - which makes me wonder if its a bios issue (or some msi driver). I am on the latest bios off their website: E16Q2IMS.10D

8/28/2018 2:06:35 PM - The system is entering sleep.
8/28/2018 2:06:36 PM - The system has resumed from sleep.
And then when I wake it up with the power button:
8/28/2018 2:08:11 PM - Firmware S3 times. ResumeCount: 1, FullResume: 617, AverageResume: 617
8/28/2018 2:08:14 PM - The system has returned from a low power state. Sleep Time: ‎2018‎-‎08‎-‎28T20:06:30.287077000Z Wake Time: ‎2018‎-‎08‎-‎28T20:08:13.359685000Z Wake Source: Power Button


From yesterday I can see it went to sleep, 'woke up' 1 second later, then 3 hours later it woke up to go to hibernate, then went back into sleep... then 'woke' back up... so strange
8/27/2018 4:10:00 PM - The system is entering sleep. Sleep Reason: Button or Lid
8/27/2018 4:10:01 PM - The system has resumed from sleep.
8/27/2018 7:10:02 PM - Firmware S3 times. ResumeCount: 3, FullResume: 606, AverageResume: 609
8/27/2018 7:10:04 PM - The system has returned from a low power state. Sleep Time: ‎2018‎-‎08‎-‎28T01:10:03.785901100Z Wake Time: ‎2018‎-‎08‎-‎28T01:10:03.785901100Z Wake Source: S4 Doze to Hibernate
8/27/2018 7:10:06 PM - The system is entering sleep. Sleep Reason: Hibernate from Sleep - Fixed Timeout
8/27/2018 7:10:07 PM - The system has resumed from sleep.

 

Hmm. Try killing any nonstandard apps in your startup. Check your services.
Recommend disabling hibernate. I never use it (up to you).
If you have a backup, try restoring to factory and adding software one bit at a time with testing.

 

Good ideas - ill see what I can find out - Thank you for the help

Edit: Even in safemode it happened - I booted safemode, then closed the lid, 1 min later opened it up
8/28/2018 2:46:02 PM - The system is entering sleep. Sleep Reason: Button or Lid
8/28/2018 2:46:03 PM - The system has resumed from sleep.

 

Did you factory reset?

 

Make sure all of the preattached devices are allowed to "turn off to save power" in device manager.
Could also be the touchpad causing this.
Have you tried uninstalling the touchpad driver and then seeing if it happens?
Usually the touchpad is NOT supposed to resume a system from sleep. A USB mouse can resume a system but not a touchpad. I remember another user having this problem, where they put a GS65 to sleep and it woke up while in their backpack and overheated due to no ventilation. I don't remember what the cause of it was, but it MAY have been an attached USB device or receiver of some sort. Like one of those logitech wireless RF receivers.

 

@Falkentyne - Just uninstalled the touchpad drivers, and the issue still happened.
Its strange how it is not actually waking up, the machine stays fully down and the power light slowly flashes. but the event viewer shows sleep. This happens with no devices or anything plugged into the laptop, even did it in safemode

@nebbish - Haven't factory reset it yet, will have to do that this weekend.

 

What part or section of event log does it show "The system is entering / exiting sleep"?

 

don't factory reset.
I have the same problem on the GT73VR.
Entered sleep,
let it sleep for 5 minutes.
I resumed. It resumed fast (5 seconds) as expected, but when I checked windows event log, it said it entered sleep and resumed from sleep at the exact same time, 5 minutes before I resumed it.
Looks like MSI is just bad.

 

So then the question is, if you just close it (put it to sleep), does it drain battery? Because that is the reason why this is a problem for me. I closed it yesterday, 18 hours later I opened it and was down from 100 to 70%.
And over the weekend with no usage went from 100 to 50, then 50 to 5.

And yeah Event Viewer -> windows logs -> system -> Source: Kernel-Power , level: information


This evening I will try hibernating it instead of sleep, and see if tomorrow I have any battery drain

 

I don't know. I never use battery. But willing to bet it would drain the battery. Sleep mode is still sleep--it still needs power. But I don't know why it "wakes" up instantly.

 

Tested this for an hour.
Laptop went into sleep mode, then a few minutes later, it went into *hibernate* mode and hibernated, that is, it shut off completely with no flashing light.
Had to power it back on and it resumed from hibernate.

Funny that I swear I disabled hibernate.....

 

I wonder if MSI is doing stuff its own sleep, hibernate stuff..... ignoring windows settings

 

Might be windows. As I said i NEVER use battery unless I'm forced to.
If I let it sleep on AC power it remains sleep for hours. I probably have hibernate enabled on battery power which uses a different profile. I'm guessing?
But the big question is why won't YOUR laptop enter hibernate after being on sleep for a certain amount of time?
I think it's supposed to hibernate after X amount of time on sleep in battery mode.

 

It used to be set to 3 hours, and it did enter hibernate, then immediately 'woke up' (laptop still stayed off and quiet) but used the 30% battery in the 18 hours
From yesterday I can see it went to sleep, 'woke up' 1 second later, then 3 hours later it woke up to go to hibernate, then went back into sleep... then 'woke' back up... so strange
8/27/2018 4:10:00 PM - The system is entering sleep. Sleep Reason: Button or Lid
8/27/2018 4:10:01 PM - The system has resumed from sleep.
8/27/2018 7:10:02 PM - Firmware S3 times. ResumeCount: 3, FullResume: 606, AverageResume: 609
8/27/2018 7:10:04 PM - The system has returned from a low power state. Sleep Time: ‎2018‎-‎08‎-‎28T01:10:03.785901100Z Wake Time: ‎2018‎-‎08‎-‎28T01:10:03.785901100Z Wake Source: S4 Doze to Hibernate
8/27/2018 7:10:06 PM - The system is entering sleep. Sleep Reason: Hibernate from Sleep - Fixed Timeout
8/27/2018 7:10:0 7 PM - The system has resumed from sleep.

 

When I put mine to sleep and it hibernated later, I left it in hibernate for an hour. When I woke it up, battery went from 94% to 92%.

sounds like you have some MSI bios bugs to deal with :/

 

So I did a teardown of my GS65 and replaced the stock thermal paste with IC graphite thermal pads which caused my idle temps to drop around 8-10 C and while stress testing has it fluctuate between 73 and 83 C it doesn't throttle. I'm worried about the components I circled in red though. What are they and what is the goop that they use? Should I have applied new paste after removing the heatsink? How important are the surrounding squishy thermal pads for heat dissipation?

https://imgur.com/a/k2iovHB

 

Large ones are chokes. Small ones are VRM's. Those look like they are for the video card. Video card VRM's need to be cooled. They didn't come with thermal pads ? If there was goop on them just reapply more. No one here knows what stock paste is used there. I'm guessing the video chip is soldered on the motherboard and not a MXM module? MXM modules always use thermal pads.

When in doubt, use Coolermaster Gel Maker Nano.

 

Thank you for your reply. The heatsink does have thermal pads attached to them, but not for the chokes and VRMs. I am still using the stock ones but don't quite know what thickness I should get for better thermals. I think it might have been you who said 0.5 mm? So basically I should just use Coolermaster Gel Maker Nano on the chokes and VRMs right? I forgot to check what my thermal pattern was before but right now there's a strange but consistent fluctuation despite not throttling.

https://imgur.com/a/mHZWrjt

I'm not sure if this is normal or a result of using graphite thermal pads instead of paste/grease, warping of the heatsink due to excessive force when I was trying to get a stripped screw out, warping of the thermal pads because of inexperience, if I messed with the circuits on the motherboard somehow without knowing, lack of replacement goop on the chokes and VRMs, or a myriad of other possibilities. To my basic knowledge, the GPU is indeed soldered on to the motherboard due to space-saving needs. If there are no pads around it on the heatsink, would I benefit from adding them around the video chip?

 

I can't help with this laptop because it seems to use a soldered GPU and completely different format than the Titan laptops. So I can't say for sure what you should use. The 0.5mm thermal pads suggestion for the *CPU* VRM's and chokes are for the laptops with the separate heatsinks for CPU and GPU and MXM video card. The measurement and advice for the GT75VR/GT75 Titan may not apply for the GS65 at all. If the entire heatsink is a one piece heatsink, then it will be much harder to know what you need for sure and how to keep core temp differentials down, since apparently you have to remove the entire motherboard, right? That pretty much takes the ability to experiment out the door...

 

I am now fed up with all the problems with my laptop, so i have decided to get a replacement (if they let me). These are all the problems i have had. I dont know if this helps people, but i'll say what the outcome of the RMA is, when i get that far:

• Audio and Microphone Jack offset from chassis
• Screen bent (Rainbow curve)
  • Extra backlight bleed (the top of the screen, center part)
• Chassis bent (Rainbow curved as well, but the opposite way, which indicates that the curving is not due to my use of the laptop)
  • Chassis cracking and squeaky noises, when forcing down on wrist rests on both sides of the touchpad
  • Chassis loose at the back by the fan intake, and makes clicking noises when backplate hits the chassis.
• Back plate hitting something inside the chassis when under little pressure, which for example makes the laptop make weird noises such as cracking and squeaking. when you walk with it under your arm.
• Wobbly / Unstable screen hinges (makes keycaps loose, id put at a certain degree), and make unsatisfying noises.
• Power button not stable, requires multiple proper presses until anything reacts (even after latest BIOS update this month, that improved stability)
• More fan whine than usual at higher speeds (4500-6000 RPM)
• Uneven pasting on the processor (core 3-5 has 5-10 higher temperatures than the rest (in celcius)