*** The Official MSI GS65 Stealth Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

What temperature or performance benefit did you notice @ -230mV/-130mV (core / cache?) vs -130mV/-130mV?

@unclewebb describes the side-effect from ThrottleStop continuing to allow independent core / cache settings even after Intel started locking the Core/Cache undervolt settings in 6th gen CPU's moving forward:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-7700hq-undervolt.800689/page-4#post-10757542

Read it carefully a few times.

I responded in that thread already. But, I'd add that I'd stick to setting the core / cache undervolt values the same to find the best undervolt first, and stop there.

Spoiler: Example...

It gets confusing to then go further and try to tickle a beneficial side effect by varying the Core undervolt further - as that value is "not real", the real value used for undervolting Core / Cache is the lower setting of the Cache undervolt.

Even if the CPU sticks with the lower Cache undervolt setting for the Core undervolt setting in reality - it gets confusing to try to explain this to someone else, especially a newbie that is already struggling with the concepts involved.

Example - Why increase the Core undervolt if it's not being used to set the Core undervolt? - What difference am I looking for? and how far is too far? Tune for stable "extended" Core undervolt until unstable and back-off +5mV?

There are not a lot of examples so far, but it "looks like" increasing the Core undervolt -100mV "gets you there" in the range of the trick becoming effective?

Generally when walking a newbie through undervolting it's tough enough getting them to take the time to methodically test for a load stable and then an idle stable @ a single core / cache undervolt setting, to then add varying further the Core undervolt setting "higher" seems like pushing their patience a bit past reasonable.

IDK if the benefits are worth the confusion.

For those of you that have tried this trick, what benefits in thermals / performance did you get vs keeping the undervolt the same for core/cache?

 

+1 for Turbo Boost off; it just produce over hit. I didn't notice lower performance in my daily tasks. The temperatures are lower.

 

Well it's Amazon India, so I'm not sure it'll be much use to you, but here it is!
https://www.amazon.in/AirCase-14-In...383833&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=aircase+14+inche

 

Less than a week in and I've picked up my first chip from some fairly innocuous contact with my watch. Be safe, guys.
Also, any tips on manually touching this up? It's annoying the hell out of me to look at it!

 

OMG No!!!

Time to start applying the stickers!

http://westcoastmarble.us/customize...o-make-cool-custom-customize-laptop-stickers/

 

I'm trying to return my GS65 so I haven't had it for a week, but iirc it quite significant. -230mV/-130mV scored like ~40 points higher in cinebench versus -150mV/-150mV which was my lowest stable symmetric undervolt.

Also I posted my benchmarks and thermals earlier in this thread and on reddit, and the recommendation was to return it because the temps were really bad. Unfortunately the retailer checked it out for themselves and they're considering the temperatures not an issue because it isn't shutting down from the heat I guess.

I mean I'm sure the thing could throttle to 2.2 GHz and run stably at 92 C for days, but that doens't mean the hardware is reaching the advertised performance.

 

My GS65 battery wear suddenly shot up from zero to 10% overnight after less than a week of use. Full capacity was ~80Wh which has suddenly dropped to 72Wh. Should I be worried about this/look to return this?
Also, is this battery replacable, or built into the motherboard?

EDIT: Adding a screenshot of the Windows Battery Report here. As you can see, it's suddenly decided to go from 100% to 88% in literally the space of a minute and refuses to charge beyond that. I'm starting to think this might be some kind of calibration glitch?

 

I suspect this would be fixed with a calibration. Use the MSI battery calibration tool and see if it fixes the issue.

You could also try charging to full, unplug, let run down a little, plug it in again, and see if it charges the rest of the way up.

The battery is very easily replaced (if you can find a replacement). 3 screws and a plug is all it takes

 

It is because you turned off and start the laptop on battery when it is at 72Wh. When it starts up, it gets tricked by the current available Wh and makes the OS think that is the maximum capacity so it reported that way. If you plugged in and still see the battery light at the side of the laptop still lights up, it means it is still charging, it's just the OS is reporting it wrong. I've come across this too, charge to battery light on the side of the laptop dims, restart and the missing capacity is back again. If charging while the laptop is turn on does not charge further, try charging with the laptop turned off.

I think this is so wrong that MSI did it that way, on ASUS and CLEVO they don't have this problem.

 

I MIGHT have dropped some sugary fluids in my keyboard. The spacebar is a little spungy, and the w and caps lock are very spongy. I tried to clean it off with Isopropycal alcohol, but i could not seem to get under there. Is there a safe way to dismantle the keycaps, so i can clean it off? This will annoy me a lot when i will be going back to school, since it just slows you down, especially when you make spaces...

 

Thanks for this. I can confirm your assessment is correct. I shut down and let it charge for another half hour, and voila, back to 0% wear. This is a pretty big bug. They should really look into fixing this.

 

Don't think it should be too much of a hassle. I've never had issues replacing keycaps on previous laptops. You can simply pop off the key with the light use of a screwdriver and clean the switch with some alcohol on a q-tip. If that doesn't fix it you may need to take off the bracket and clean under there as well. Fitting the bracket/key back, is fairly intuitive, you shouldn't have a problem figuring it out.

Here's a simple video that should cover it if you have any doubts.


Go do it quick! Sticky keyboards are annoying af!

 

So I am a bit new to laptops and I'm planning on getting a GS65, but i was wondering if I get the Best Buy version and put a NVME SSD in the second slot, will it run fine with the other being SATA? If so, what RAID do you guys prefer running. Also, I haven't been able to find a 100% answer as to if the screen is the same or a cheapo version.

 

Does a cooling pad help with this laptop? Was looking at Trust Frio cool stand. Looks like it pushes air downward. And does the msi gs65 pull air inside from the bottom? so it would be useless/worse?

 

They don't help the internals much - just your lap.

 

It has one M.2 slot that only supports PCIe NVMe, and another that will support either SATA or PCIe NVMe.

RAID 0 - 2x identical SSDs in a single virtual volume = faster (example 512GB [2x 256GB] shows 512GB)
RAID 1 - 2x identical SSDs, for keystroke for keystroke redundant backup = slower (example 512GB [2x 256GB] shows 256GB...the other 256GB is hidden)

I cannot speak to what screen BestBuy is using.

 

I searched up and down for this setting, but can't find it. Any clues as to where it is buried?

EDIT: nevermind, found it in a different thread.

 

Just looking for some help.

I decided to mess with my memory settings as I installed ballistix 32gb 2666 DDR4. I read in previous posts how to reset the CMOS by holding down the power for 60 seconds with the power adapter unplugged. So I was willing to go back into the bios and see if I could get my memory working at the correct clock (it only clocks at 2400 now). Well long story short i'm unable to boot anymore. Resetting the CMOS allows the MSI logo to show for a split second but then it just hangs with the power light on and black screen. I sent a support ticket in to MSI but I was hoping someone on here might have a tip for me. Unfortunately, I think I have done everything I can short of putting the old memory back in to see if it will boot once again. It's just a process I don't feel like doing unless i have to again. Thanks again for any help.

 

Hi everybody

I´ve got a brief question. Two weeks ago I received my new MSI GS65. From my point of view the trackpad was already broken when I got it (picture attached). The bottom left and bottom right corner of the trackpad were extremly flexible. When you push one of these corners the trackpad lowers about 0.5 cm. Is this supposed to be like that? Because of this issue I send it back and got a "new" one, which I received yesterday - same issue again.

So my question is: Is this normal? Or did I receive twice a broken Laptop?

Thank you very much

 

It's a clickpad. When you push it down it left clicks. If you push the right corner it's a right click. These have been around a long time. The only oddity with this one is the top half of the trackpad doesn't click at all.

 

Yeah, clicking the upper half is quite hard, i feels "defective".

 

Just use tap to click, tap with 2 fingers for right click.. Makes everything so much easier.

 

So i've been having an issue with an MSI GS65 where the system will crash to a black screen with the occasional white ~1-2 pixel high line appearing for a split second every 10ish seconds. There doesn't seem to be a cause other than the Nvidia drivers as the system has been doing different things every time it has crashed.

has anyone else here had this issue?


i have tried reinstalling windows and all drivers, including a clean driver install twice to two different driver sets (one was unusable)

 

You could use DDU to uninstall the Nvidia driver, and try installing the one from MSI - or as old as possible that is still supported by the current point release of Windows 10, and see if it's a recent Nvidia driver issue.

A number of people in other threads have mentioned they had to backtrack a long way to find an Nvidia driver without performance / stutter issues. Maybe someone can help by posting suggested Nvidia driver versions for you to try.

Otherwise it actually sounds like your laptop could have a problem that needs RMA, or if you got it more recently - return it to the seller for another one.

Did you happen to create a USB recovery flash drive with MSI BurnRecovery? That can be used in a situation like this where you aren't sure if it's new updates to Windows / Nvidia or a hardware problem. You could restore / recover back to the out of the box OS - turn off updates - and see if you are then stable. That would rule out a hardware problem.

Please let us know how it works out.

 

I did not make a BurnRecovery, i don't remember if i used DDU, but the issue did exist with both drivers that i tried. I suspect that it could be a hardware issue as the unit has had issues since day one and i thought i was able to fix it by uninstalling windows.

i think i will try MSI support and see if i can have it RMA'd, i was just wondering if anyone else had this issue.

 

That's the right way to go about it, and hopefully someone that has experienced what you are seeing and solved it with a software fix will say something.

Can you return it to the seller, or has that time passed? It's much quicker than an RMA.

If you do RMA try to create a test scenario that's easy for them to reproduce at their bench, or it may take a few passes to get it fixed - these kind of issues that are transient are hard to demonstrate and often get returns for RMA a couple few times.

Next time you can create the MSI BurnRecovery USB 3.0 32GB recovery flash drive and restore to the out of the box OS to do a hardware / software sanity check.

If you ask MSI they will restore the OS to your drives - make sure you back up all of your good stuff before sending the laptop - and this also gives them the freedom to load their tests and OS image which might improve your chance of getting a diagnosis and fix on the first RMA visit.

Good luck

 

Hello,
I've really enjoyed this forum, thank you! First post here. I'm going to upgrade my device with a Samsung EVO 970 1TB NVMe SSD. I'd also like to upgrade the memory to 32GB since I'll have the case open. I'm looking for some recommendations if possible? I'm a bit rusty these days and been out for a bit.

TIA!

 

The latest drivers from the Nvidia site are ruunning fine for me. GS65 with 1070 Max Q

 

Have you tried disabling the NVidia GPU altogether and running only off Intel? Does it still crash?

 

FYI: THIN-047 GS65047 model (16GB/256GB NVME/GTX1060) on sale at Microsoft Store - $1699 ($1619.10 with edu discount)

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/m...93fvpv09rx3n/j85w?activetab=pivot:overviewtab

 

I installed this ones in my laptop and are working fine:
Ballistix Sport LT BLS2C16G4S240FSD 32 GB Kit (16 GB x 2) (DDR4, 2400 MT/s, PC4-19200, DR x8, SODIMM, 260-Pin) Memory, Grey
I saw some peoples that have some issues with the ones with 2666 MT/s and MSI GS65.

 

Hi All,

I have a question.
How adding a second HD - like Samsung 970 - 512 GB - affects thermal ?
Is it negligible or is it badly influencing ?
What's also about battery runtime ?

Thank you.

 

Depends much how it's used - stressed around 5W and idling about 5 mW. Compared to GTX1060 with 80W and CPU 45W it's not too significant.

 

Pretty negligible

 

Any ideas on what today's new BIOS release (E16Q2IMS.10D) does? "Improve the stability of the panel display" doesn't really explain very well

 

;****************************************************************************;

New BIOS : E16Q2IMS.10D
ROM CheckSum : 0xC0CA
Release Date : 2018/07/16

;--------------------------- Description ------------------------------------;

1. Improve the panel display stability.

;****************************************************************************;

Whatever that means.

 

Exactly. That doesn't really tell us much. I've never heard the term stability used in relation to a monitor or display

 

hey whatever it is, it might help me!

XD

 

I have not, would i disable it from within the Device manager? or is there an Nvidia/Intel control panel that would control that?

 

Well i contacted them, and they blamed it on Windows and said to uninstall KB4103721. Its possible that it is a windows error, but from what i can see so far, the issue doesn't seem like its the same as others are having. I don't know the rules on here for video, but i do have a short vid of the screen flickering slightly.


I'll try and run the system with the 1070 disabled and see if it still happens, but i personally don't think its a windows update problem.

 

Trying MSI's suggestions / requests is part of the pre-RMA debugging, and they might be right too, so it's worth trying.

MSI might also ask to restore to the recovery partition, if that's still possible outside the MSI BurnRecovery recovery restore that's worth trying too.

 

I am sure there were more than one line of code changes.

 

Some one installed?

 

Hi All,

I still hesitate between Razer 15 and GS65...
I have a question. I read the touchpad is better on the Razer but what's about the touchpad on the GS65?
I don't use "clickable" click but just "touched" click.
So how is working the touchpad on this way ?
Is it working fine or will it miss also some left or right click?

Thank you.

 

The Razer touchpad is definitely nice, but there are no issues with the GS65. I both physical click and touch click. Both work perfectly well.

 

What he said

 

I meant device manager. Worth a shot, might help narrow down the problem

 

It really depends on personal preference for the "feel" of it. Both should have the same tech to be able to physically click the button and the touch click. If possible, i would suggest going to a physical location with these and getting a feel for the differences in the models. Because everyone is a bit different on how they like certain products.

 

Razer blade 15 seems to have 35W limit on the CPU and some users are complaining about this and currently they have no way to solve this. GS65 does not throttle unless it goes past 45W or reaching 90C for default setting in BIOS, you can make it go past 45W full time with some tweak in the BIOS.

 

IMON SLOPE=50
IMON OFFSET= (-)31999
(make sure its negative not positive).
Then you're only limited by temperatures and maximum 6 core turbo multiplier.