Hmm... Not sure about that microswitch close to the USB on power plug side. Speaking about that side, when you put back the motherboard, the side with the ethernet port must go into the chassis first. Then when placing down the power plug side, there will be ample room.
Did you buy from a local retailer or online?
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Online! And the Button unfortunately does nothing! :/
Getting it serviced will probably take ages and cost a lot! Meh! -
Oh, and it seems to be the reset button, becuasether IS a small hole and I can push the button through it!
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I would restore the laptop first (thoroughly clean LM re-paste and re-apply with non liquid metal) and see if that works. If not, call up your online retailer for an exchange. if you are in the U.S., it's illegal for manufacturers to void warranty opening the machine for repair or upgrades. As long as no visible damage to components, then it should be fine. Heck, MSI has a one year Accidental Damage Coverage that can cover broken screens, dead / abused batteries, and even shorting from water spill/flooding as I interpreted.
This is why I bought from Best Buys locally (when cost is comparable).hmscott likes this. -
I will try! I'm in Germany, though!
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Nope! Won't fly! But thanks!
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Last edited: Jun 14, 2018Donald@Paladin44 likes this.
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Does anyone have an GPU undervolt reference for the 1070 version of this in Afterburner? My CPU does a decent 0.150 undervolt in throttlestop already and would like to explore more thermal lowering options.
Donald@Paladin44 likes this. -
Falkentyne Notebook Prophet
You don't undervolt Pascal GPU's like this.
You "undervolt" by raising the clock speed (overclocking), or by locking (Control F and then press L) a lower voltage point. But this isn't an undervolt. It freezes the clock at the target voltage point.
If you had an older Pascal video bios (with a hardware programmer available), e.g. a 4 core laptop equipped with a 1070, you could mod the video bios to unlock the TDP slider, and then lower the slider to a TDP below 100%, which limits the clock speed and thus "undervolts", but this editor doesn't seem to work on video cards on laptops that have 6 core equipped CPU's. So all you can do is bring up the afterburner clock curve graph, lock a lower voltage point and press L and apply. But this also reduces your clock speed. You can't undervolt directly.
The closest thing to undervolting is *overclocking*, thus making the card run faster at the same clock.raz8020 and Donald@Paladin44 like this. -
So overlocking the laptop GPU in this would make it have a higher clock, but still remain at a fixed voltage. Would that be what you're saying?Donald@Paladin44 likes this. -
Falkentyne Notebook Prophet
Yes that's basically it. If you want to "Undervolt", you HAVE to overclock.
You lock (press L on the voltage graph) or set a lower voltage point on the graph (or you find the voltage point you want to use, then "flatten" the graph completely, starting at that voltage point and all the way to the right, THEN you overclock (or not).raz8020 and Donald@Paladin44 like this. -
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Support.1@XOTIC PC Company Representative
Wackistan likes this. -
So just a quick update. I finally added my 2tb SSD, and did my re re re paste after all the testing I did with various paste jobs. I still stand by my conclusions in my review - I'm getting the best temps with Conductonaut LM on the CPU and Kryonaut on the GPU.
It's worth noting that I reverted back to using the stock pads on the components just above the CPU. I did a couple dry runs with both stock and fujipoly and found that the CPU heatsink makes better contact with the stock pads.
I also did an electrical tape job underneath the battery. A single layer everywhere I could hit, and some foam pads in the gaps to put pressure on the battery and keep it from moving. I hardly hear any creaking now. The is still a single spot on the right, but I can live with it. There's still flex when lifting from the front edge, and the only way to fix that is with some shims, but I don't want to add any more weight.hmscott, robohgedhang, JRey and 2 others like this. -
You probably don't have a picture where you did put the tape? Also would it make sense to glue the battery with the hot plastic to the chassis? Just looking for opinions.
robohgedhang likes this. -
Falkentyne Notebook Prophet
Fujipoly are too hard and inflexible. And when you have a heatsink that only has very low, light static pressure on the CPU, anything that reduces pressure even more, like hard inflexible pads, just makes temps worse and leads to higher core temp differentials.
Arctic 1mm and 0.5mm pads are a good compromise between wanting more cooling performance and improving the gummy, low quality stock pads. VRM cooling isn't even the limiting factor on any of these laptops (excluding some alienwares), unlike GPU VRM cooling, which is absolutely essential or magic smoke; the MSI 16L13 barebones has NO VRM cooling whatsoever. -
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkhmscott likes this. -
I thought about gluing it but decided against it since the battery needs to be disconnected in order to upgrade. I also wasn't sure how many times it would take to get rid of the creaking and didn't want to deal with glue. It took me 3 tries, so I think I chose wisely.
Edit: that little red square was supposed to be a green circle
Skylake_, robohgedhang, raz8020 and 2 others like this. -
Falkentyne Notebook Prophet
LM is usually considered to be at least 10C better than Kryonaut.Vistar Shook likes this. -
All those results are with Fuji pads. I haven't posted my current results yet, but I plan to later today. -
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
Hi all. Looking for some assistance re: Intel Rapid Storage driver. My GS65 has two Samsung PM981 nvme drives in it. I noticed that the RST tray icon kept saying "RST service not running" so I uninstalled it and planned to re-install using the package available on MSI's website. However, when I click to install I get "platform not supported". Is RST not needed/supported when using strictly nvme drives?
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Did anybody try a cooling pad yet?
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Donald@Paladin44 likes this.
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Created an account because I wanted to thank everyone here for all this useful information & share my results. I spent a good deal of time reading / skimming this thread for info and I've had great results. I unlocked my bios using the key combo and disabled the over-voltage options. I removed Dragon Center, installed the Silent Option fan app and made a profile (no higher then 130%). I was able to keep very consistent clocks without throttling. Here are my Firestrike results:
https://www.3dmark.com/fs/15725842
This is on stock paste with multipliers at 41 / 41 / 40 / 40 / 38 / 38
One thing notable was the RAM overclock, using some kind of "odd frequency" setting in the bios. You see its 2526MHz, small bump but I also lowered the first two timings to 16 from 17. If anyones interested I can get all my settings.
I think there is still some more tweaking I can do to reduce random temperature spikes but it's not too bad, and this test was without a cooling pad, which I will have soon. Any thoughts on that, without hurting performance much, is appreciated. I may try a few small voltage offsets.Mickel781 likes this. -
Is anyone else having a lot of issues with Optimus graphics switching. I get a lot of freezing on the mouse curser. Something simple like clicking on the battery icon causes freezing.
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Hi good to hear that. This forum helped me also the most.
If you don't mind I would be interested in your bios settings just to compare to mine and finding the sweet spot -
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I'm going to do some more testing over the weekend but I'll be sure to come back with some BIOS / fan curve screenshots
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raz8020 likes this.
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Support.1@XOTIC PC Company Representative
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
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Any updates on the power button not working, SplineO? Curious if you figured out the issue in case anyone else runs into a similar issue. Could it be the end of the ribbon cable to the power button came loose somehow when it was pulled out? (Not the mobo end, the end to the switch)
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Hey!
I tried everything, took the notebook apart completely. All cables seem fine and are connected. In the end I sent it into service yesterday. I'll report back once I have it. I'll need to go in and do the repaste and upgrades then, as they refuse to even add the SSD.
I'll be in touch! -
Okay so I have an observation about using a cooling pad.
I ran Firestrike again with the same bios settings as my first test (score 13,473). However this time I set the fans to automatic speed profile and used a laptop cooling pad. I got literally, the same exact score... that is the first time I've ever gotten EXACTLY the same score in Firestrike, LOL. So I thought well, lets see what happens if I run the test again with the cooling pad, and with my fan curve profile that ramps up to 130% CPU and 150% GPU profile like the first test I did.
This time, I got a score of 13,498. Wow that is a very small difference for all of that extra noise!
So my conclusion is if you really only game at your workstation, leave your fan profile on automatic all the time, but use a cooling pad. It is FAR quieter and probably better on the moving parts inside the laptop.
(to restate, I'm using Silent Option) -
Skylake_ likes this.
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@ chrash4fun: What cooling pad are you using?
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I want to share my current setting, very stable.
Paste: Grizzly kryonaut (34 days since repaste) / Stock cooling pad
ThrottleStop Settings (Plugged in):
>>Speed Shift-EPP 96 SST
>>Speed Shift enbled in BIOS
>>Speed Shift Min 11 / Max 40
>>Turbo Ratio 40/40/39/39/38/38
>>CPU Core offset -117.2mV
>>CPU Cache offset -55.7mV
>>Intel GPU offset -150.4mV
>>System Agent -70.3mV
>>Analog I/O -61.5mV
Fan setting (Fans never activate on Battery mode):
>>CPU: 0% / 0% / 70% / 80% / 90% / 100%
>>GPU: 0% / 0% / 65% / 75% / 85% / 95%
W on full load with 40/40/39/39/38/38:
>>51.8-53.1W
Multiplier when 45W Throttle kicks in:
>>36 / 36 / 36 / 36 / 36 / 36
In fire strike test I get:
GPU core +0 / Mem +0
Temp: CPU 86C GPU 76C
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/27114324?
GPU core +200 / Mem +300
Temp: CPU 86C GPU 78C
https://www.3dmark.com/fs/15740488
Odd that on the CPU core offset the voltage stops lowering when I reached -117.2mV for 3.8GHz on 6 cores.
Had to lower the voltage by lowering CPU cache offset for further.
As a result, the lowest voltage my CPU can reach was 1.0144mV on 3.8GHz (No error in ThrottleStop stress test).
I use this laptop for everyday work too, my settings on Battery mode is:
>>Speed Shift-EPP 127 SST
>>Speed Shift enbled in BIOS
>>Speed Shift Min 11 / Max 40
>>Turbo Ratio 22/22/22/22/22/22
>>CPU Core offset -200.2mV
>>CPU Cache offset -108.4mV
>>Intel GPU offset -150.4mV
>>System Agent -70.3mV
>>Analog I/O -61.5mV
>>Turbo boost: off
>>Max CPU usage % in Power Option = 55%, 1.2GHz max with Turbo boost off and this.
Lowest voltage on battery for 1.2GHz was 0.5748mV, CPU package consumes 6.4W max, idle at around 1.4~1.8W, Highest C-state is C8.
Usually I get up to 7 hour Battery with lots of word / excel editing / Edge browsing (does not accidently activate dGPU for 8 sec if not going to any video site that's using flash).Last edited: Jun 17, 2018 -
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It helps a little bit, but every little bit counts. Makes a good platform, and I'm sure its better for the other surrounding components. -
Last edited: Jun 17, 2018
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this post was an accident
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Last edited: Jun 17, 2018raz8020 likes this.
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