*** The Official MSI GE75 Raider Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

$2899 for a 9880H, 32GB/1TB ... and a 2070. That's $500 more than I paid for mine with a 2080, 32GB and 2x512GB SSDs.

The 2080 model is $3399, a full $1000 more than I paid for mine.

If those prices are legit I feel just fine with my decision to buy now rather than wait. I don't care how much allegedly better their 14nm+++++++++++++ process is, it's not worth $1000.

 

You guys have some riddiculously low prices there, 9980H will be like 3800-4000 dollar here, calculated.

 

I'm really interested in doing these BIOS tweaks, has anyone else implemented them and found them to be stable and safe? Which of the settings are dangerous and what are the setting ranges for those settings? With ThrottleStop, everyone posts safe ranges for all the settings, all the BIOS tweaks appear to be exact values. Also, are these settings ALL or NONE, or can you implement the settings one at a time?

 

You can implement any of those settings on their own, you don't have to do all of them. You can also change the numbers to your liking. However with Bios tweaks you need to make an effort to understand what the change you are doing does exactly, so that you can troubleshoot if you need to. They each modify a different aspect which are well explained by the users who posted the tweaks.

The AC/DC Load Line settings are a pseudo undervolt. There will be less voltage at higher clocks. This doesn't mean cooler temperatures necessarily over the long run, since your TDP will still be 45W with these changes. But you will get more performance for the same amount of power and heat.

IMON tweaks suggested will make your computer run hotter. You are essentially increasing the maximum amount of power your cpu can draw.

Current settings will tackle the 'EDP Other' throttling which will not increase your total heat as your cpu is still bound by the same total power limitations.

If you have thermal headroom, you can apply all of these settings without a worry. If your CPU is already running around 90 degrees, I wouldn't do the IMON tweaks, because you will simply thermal throttle.

But the GE75 should have enough cooling to always run at 3.9 at all cores. So if your computer is running hot, you can always repaste, which is worthwhile.

 

The best and most important setting, in my opinion, is the loadline value to 1. This sheds off the massive overvolt that comes with the machine. Just make sure to remove throttlestop/ or whatever you are using to currently undervolt before chaning those values.

 

Hard to say where pricing will settle, but it's more understandable now why the GE75 saw pretty fast price drops as they're moving to the newer CPU. If the current CPU models stay available at $2500 that would be a better deal then the new ones I suspect. I wouldn't be surprised to see the 2080 version of this settle in around $3299 US (assuming you are buying in US), and the i9 version coming in closer to 4000. The CPU is better, about 100mhz on all cores. Some other efficiencies done and possibly better cooling design. If I could redo, I would have saved my 3K I paid and bought this... but I've already jumped in a few months ago on the 8750h version. Not worth upgrading from that! Cinbench scores (very early results) show it getting around 1290... or 2% higher after tweaking 8750h. The new CPUs also, supposedly, can't be undervolted nearly as much. I think on CPU bottlenecked activities you'll probably see 5-10% improvement.

If somehow they double the battery size and I can get 6-8hrs on this with web surfing, then i'll upgrade and find somebody to buy my ultra-tweaked 8750h/2080 .

 

The i9 model at HIDevolution is going for $3399. The i7 from MSI will run $2699 on Amazon but it looks like another month for that one, but it's $2618 on GenTech and available to ship now. The battery is the same 65Whr.

 

Another update: I'd settled on a -0.180mv undervolt in Throttlestop. It never threw a BSOD, I just got to that point and stopped testing because I was ready to do other stuff.

Anyway, just for fun, I reset Throttlestop and did the BIOS tweaks someone suggested a few pages back. Then I fired up Throttlestop and started undervolting.

And it just ... kept going.

I'm at -0.100mv and it seems stable, but who knows, might have to ease it down a little more.

Fire Strike score: 20313 overall, 27035 graphics.

Temps while running the Time Spy stress test through a full loop averaged 62C on the CPU and 66C on the GPU. Ambient 20C.

Playing Far Cry 5, though, that's a different story. Seeing low 70s on the GPU, mid-to-upper 70s, spiking to 80 or 82 on the CPU. No throttling at all, though.

I'm still in my return window so I don't want to open it up just yet, but at some point maybe I should repaste it.

 

Nothing wrong with that!

I did the bios tweaks and repasted with Gelid Extreme (or something like that) and playing BF5 for a couple hours in a room that's 20-21C it doesn't go above 75C now.

 

wow... damn, I guess in this case the glory goes to those who could hold off 5 months. Lol. Oh well.

 

Well this is what my paste job looked like when I opened it up. That big circle in the center is probably not a good thing?

Either way I repasted (just put a pea in the center of each) and sealed it. Temps ARE lower. Not as low as I think they could be, not sure if I used enough paste, but definitely better than what they were. I'll have to do some more testing but after running Time Spy I didnt see any throttling.

 

Was it pretty easy to do? I've built plenty of desktops and even repasted a few MacBooks years ago, but I've never done a more modern machine.

I'm thinking of ordering some Fujipoly's and Kryonaut and repasting mine once my return period is over and I'm sure I'm going to keep it. If I recall correctly it's 0.5mm all around. Is that what you used?

How are your core differentials? I have 3 cores that get quite a bit hotter than the other 3.

 

The hardest part, as I think someone else mentioned before, is getting the back case off. If I had some sort of pry tool it would have gone a lot easier.. I did manage to break a few clips Outside of that it was fairly easy. Around 10 screws and you just lift the entire assembly. Someone else actually posted a great picture and detailed it.. I added it as a quote here. I didn't re-pad anything I only did a repasting on the CPU/GPU.

I have a couple cores that get a bit hotter than my others as well, but overall temps are lower. Someone gave me the advice to take the processor affinity off of my cores that were throttling first.

Edit: Well I thought I quoted it! It's on page 72

 

I am still getting a EDP Other under Ring in Throttle Stop if anyone has any ideas about how to fix that? I am using all the Bios Tweaks and am running an undervolt of -40


My wife got the GS75 (Same processor) but with a 2070 card. When shes playing World of Warcraft she runs around 65 while mine is stilling getting up to 85 so I may try to re-paste again. Considering it use to go up to 95.. I can still be a little happier.

Wonder if I should undo the IMON tweaks.
I know Doc Foc made a comment about that tweak making the computer run hotter.

 

Hello guys
I opened up my laptop to reapply thermal paste but i found some sticky blue stuff
What is it and should i clean it ?
If i cleaned it what should i put in its place its close to the electronics and my thermal paste is conductive



https://m.imgur.com/a/ChojMuV

Oh i also forgot to mention that i reapplied the paste and didnt touch the sticky stuff but now core 2&4 temps are a bit higher than the others like +5-10c

 

i get EDP other too with the same BIOS tweaks. another guy early in the thread who also had the BIOS tweaks posted benchmarks and they had it too. i think it might be normal?

also, what's the processor affinity thing? what did you do?

 

On laptops I prefer to spread the paste thinly over the entire surface, unlike desktop cpu's these don't have a heatspreader over the die.

 

What is EDP?

 

we're referring to "EDP other" that appears in yellow, in Throttlestop > Limits (not sure what it means, but it appears to several users who did the BIOS CPU tweaks)

 

Thanks! I'll take it apart and try again. Can't hurt.

 

Just changed the turbo multiplier to 3.6, and applied an undervold of -0.100mv.
Ran the Division 2 benchmark. Before these changes, my CPU hit 92c. Now it tops out at 86c. Much better, especially considering I'm on stock paste.
Going to run this undervolt for a while to confirm its stable before I consider going further. Also need to see how I do in longer gaming session, before I was seeing a max of 95c-97c after maybe 1hr of playing The Division 2. I might still end up around 90-92c (assuming the same reduction as seen in the benchmark), but thats already a lot better than before.
Unfortunately repasting is not an easy option here in The Netherlands, as the seller (CoolBlue) does not offer that service, and its not somthing I feel comfortable doing myself.
Anyway, thanks so much for the advice so far, as it seems to have really helped!

EDIT - After 1 playing Division 2, max CPU temp was 85c. 1c lower than the benchmark. Nice!

And does anyone have examples of a slightly more aggressive fan curve for Dragon Centre that might also help keep temps down when gaming? I have the fan set to AUTO at the moment. If I set it to ADVANCED, and don't touch the fan curve points, is it then the same as AUTO, or is ADVANCED already a bit more aggressive than AUTO, even before adjusting it?

 

why not move your turbo to 3.7 and let temps come up. Unless you get to 95c you won't thermal throttle and you're giving up performance. No reason to run the CPU cooler than 94 unless you don't like fan noise. CPU are designed to run at this temp for many years, and my guess is that even if you are a hardcore gamer you're not putting in the majority of your PC time at that high temp. Just food for thought...

 

Thanks, I'll have to check that when I get home.

 

That was my thinking actually, to nudge the turbo to 3.7 and check the temps. According to HwiNFO, I was getting thermal throttle before at 92c already?....

 

Anyone try the X method for thermal paste? It was on the Kryonaut instructions as a method and looked it up and it had good reviews from other sites

 

Sorry for late response.. I missed your question!!

It just makes it so certain games will use the other cores instead. So I moved my games off the ones that tended to get hotter than the others. The process itself is fairly simple and I'd suggest just googling it so that it's made more clear by pictures etc Very very easy to do though. I have not really looked into it, but doubt theres any down side to removing a couple.

 

For those that did bios tweaks... what value did that give you over using throttlestop to undervolt? Did you see higher scores in Cinbench or other? Curious if I'm really leaving that much on the table by sticking with Throttlestop given I'm already above 21000 on firestrike, 1250 on cinbench, etc.

 

Slightly random question. Windows 10 in 1080 with 100% scaling I'm finding a little too small for me (as my laptop sites approx 1m from me). Is "changing the size of text, apps and other items" the only way to increase the size of everything, or is there a smarter way of doing it? Setting this to 125% works, but a few programs have slightly blurry text. Not the end of the world, but if there is a better way to do it that would be great.

On my GT80 I simply set scaling to 125% and everything worked well, but that was under Win 8.1

 

I only saw this after recently updating windows but what about something like...

 

Yeah, I did that as well. Seems to fix most but not all. I can live with it though, its not the end of the world.

 

I have a brand new spare charger which I don't really need let me know if anyone would be interested pm me. It is the 280w.

Sent from my EVR-L29 using Tapatalk

 

I just grabbed a 2nd one for a spare otherwise I would have been interested. More than once in the past I was couldn't even use my main laptop for a while since I couldn't source one locally.

 

Have you guys seen that GE75 (2080, 9750H, 32GB) at gentech for 2699? Is it a good value? I'm planning on buying one when i go to US in 2020

 

that's 8 months from now, prices, available hardware will all change. For someone considering to buy today, its not bad though.

 

So I decided to open it up and replace the SSDs and spinning hard drive and ... holy crap. The bottom cover design is actively hostile. I have an iFixit tool kit with lots of little openers and plastic pry tools, and it still took forever to get the stupid thing off.

And that "FACTORY SEAL" sticker was also horrible. I got it in my head to remove all of it once I'd broken it, because it looked like crap, and that was almost as annoying as getting the bottom cover off.

And then there is the SSD wedged under the heat pipe to contend with. Not a big deal since I was going to repaste anyway, which is actually super simple once you get the bottom cover off. But overall, this is not a friendly device to work on. Hopefully the bottom cover won't be so horrible to remove after the first time.

Anyway, I just finished about an hour and a half of benchmarking (Cinebench R15 & R20, 3DMark, Superposition, FC5 benchmark) and stress testing and playing some Far Cry 5. With the BIOS tweaks listed earlier in the thread plus an undervolt of -0.107 and all-core turbo capped at 37, I ended up with a maximum GPU temp of 71 and a maximum CPU temp on the hottest core of 78.

CPU package average over 1 hour 45 minutes of testing and playing games: 61
GPU average: 57

My max recorded GPU clock was 2070Mhz, but it mostly stays in the upper 1800s and occasional 1900s. During the 3DMark stress tests my CPU and GPU both stay in the 50s and 60s.

The undervolt this thing can take is just unreal.

Also, in case anyone is interested, I find that these "laptop legs" work great:

https://www.amazon.com/LapWorks-Cre...ptop+Legs&qid=1556298022&s=electronics&sr=1-1

When they're closed up you can barely tell they're there but they still give a little bit of rear elevation. When they're open, they really let the machine breathe. Great for when I'm not using it on a cooler.

 

I picked myself up one of these today, and I have to say I'm very impressed. Its "just" the right size for the GE75. It says its suitable for 17in laptops, but honestly I would not want to try it will anything bigger than the GE75. With its inbuilt fan on 50% its basically silent. Having the laptop elevated on this stand seems to make a difference.

http://www.coolermaster.com/mobile/notepal-all-notepals/ergostand-III/

1hr playing Shadow of the Tomb Raider, all details Ultra. Was happily running at between 70-120 fps depending on the area. All CPU cores 100% usage. -.100mv undervolt, turbo limited to 3.6. Stock paste. Highest core temp was 84c. Without this stand I think it would have been 2-3c warmer at least.

 

Hmm... bios tweaks made my performance worse. Not sure if they're still relavent after latest firmware and bios from MSI. My Cinbench scores peak at 1240 vs. 1270 before (average is 1220 vs 1250 before). Throttle stop reports 4W MAX.... I get it, that this is 31W lower... but this makes me think that the most this CPU is drawing is like 35W. And yes... I was in prime 95 and let it run for awhile. Sure, all cores show that they're running at 3.9ghz... but it doesn't seem to be utilizing the CPU all the way. Again - something seems off. Temps are fine... thinking of a few more tests and hitting the ol' UNDO button on BIOS tweaks. I welcome any input if others see better performance after BIOS tweaks (and running latest bios).

 

I recently got the GE75 RTX 2080 laptop, it came with 2x8gb Ram from factory to my pleasant suprise.

I do have a potentially serious problem:
Windows Hardware Errors (WHEA)
PCI/PCIe Bus Errors

Regardless if the laptop is completely IDLE or if I'm doing something resource intensive there is approximately 1-2 errors each minute.

While gaming in apex legends gave 263 errors in 2h30min (1.75errors/minute).

The errors existed even when the laptop was in stock voltage, atm I have -100mV to combat heat.

 

What program are you using to see Hardware errors? HWinfo?

 

Yup, thats HWinfo. Get all the monitoring pages up. then scroll fully down - its right at the bottom of everything.

 

Indeed it is HWinfo, not sure if I can open up the laptop and upgrade the Thermal paste as it might void the warranty and it might be defective considering the errors?

 

Can you change which keyboard presets work from the keyboard lighting button? I added my own custom setup, but I have to manually go to the steelseries app to pick it every time. I would rather delete some of the stock color setups and have mine be a choice but I can't figure out how to make it work from that button below the power button.

 

My first thought is that it's driver related; I wonder if you do a safe boot or disable certain components from device manager you can isolate what is generating the errors.

 

That is possible, I actually reinstalled windows to get rid of all the unnecessary programs, maybe there is some driver problem?

I might reinstall windows again and see if it helps.

the laptop is working well as far as I can see.

one odd thing is that with -100mV I get cinebench 1183 score but with stock voltage I get only 1097 points.

-150mv gives me 1227 score but is not game stable.

 

I was hoping to change stock thermal paste with better quality one and remove the 2.5" mechanical harddrive but now I'm afraid of breaking the stock factory sticker as the laptop might have some hidden problems

 

New user here, but have been reading multiple posts & threads here that have helped me immensely. Just bought the GE75 Raider-048 (i7-8750H, 16GB RAM, RTX 2080), and have some questions regarding driver issues, and performance.

I did a clean install of Windows 10, and installed all of the drivers directly from MSI. However, the audio just seems off as if it is muffled and very low. For instance in Netflix, I can barely hear the voices even when cranking up the volume to the max. In games, certain things sound great, but just like in Netflix the rest is very low. Any ideas by chance?

Also, performance in games like Final Fantasy XV seems to be around 45-60fps when on max settings which surprises me as this is the RTX 2080 running at 1080p compared to some reviews of laptops with the RTX 2080 showing 80fps with similar settings but at 4K. I updated the BIOS and EC Firmware directly from MSI, which definitely seemed to make a difference. The 16GB of RAM in the system is only single channel in which I have 32GB of Crucial DDR4 2666 RAM on the way to make it dual channel. Just wondering if that upgrade might make a big difference? I might be able to return the laptop to where I ordered it with a restocking fee, as technically nothing isn't working. But if I do the RAM upgrade, that option might be off the table due to the factory sticker being altered.

I do love this laptop, but these two big things are causing me some issues. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also I guest we can't use Dynamic Super Resolution, as this laptop using Optimus and switches between the Intel GPU?

 

I did factory reset windows 10 from MSI factory image, now with more programs installed I'm getting even more errors it seems like, after 14min 49errors, so 3.5errors/minute in average.

I'll keep playing Apex Legends and seeing if it is stable otherwise.

 

Do you know guys, if it's possible to add windows precision on my unit GE73 8RF cause now recent units comes with it , instead of synaptics ... ?

 

Guys, what is the latest stable windows 10 build for MSI GE75 raider?
I'm using GE75 Raider 050 GTX2060 from HIDEVOLUTION and my win OS is win10 version 1803 OSbuild 17134.407
So far all games are good with the best FPS.

 

when picking a windows build, the model of your computer isn't very relevant. There are ton of threads about Windows with tons and tons of info in this forum. I personally learned a lot and will be reinstalling everything once I have a solid plan. I recommend you read threads by 'Ultra Male' a.k.a. Phoenix on Windows builds and installation.

As far as what is the current best build? The 1903 is going to be released in May, but people seem to have bad opinions of it. (You can get it right now through insider programs). Everyone seems to hate 1809 the least though. I personally really like it. It feels responsive and relatively headache free.

TL;DR --> 1809 build