*** The Official MSI GE75 Raider Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

@spudman2080 are the old 90ish °C temps without undervolting or with throttle stop? How can the temps be better with less undervolting?
Can you explain the exact changes you made in the bios? Do I have to change the bios in some way to get access to these settings?

 

Hey buddy, yeah those temps were with a substantial undervolt actually.

The undervolt is less because you are changing the settings in the bios and therfore cannot run a huge undervolt as you did before changing them.

Once in the bios you need to hit left alt, right ctrl right shift and f2 to bring up the secret menu.

From there you must navigate the bios

90c was only in assassins creed and I think thats partly down to how badly optimized the game actually is rather than any tweaking but the tweaking sure did help a ton!

less off an undervolt comes from changing the bios settings, once you change them there is no way you can run a big undervolt anymore because you load lines will be way less then what they were....

I followed this...

Reset throttlestop. If you fail to do this and have it scheduled to apply an undervolt on login, you'll BSOD every time you log in after doing these mods. Were going to do a tweak that has a very similar effect as a large undervolt.

If you do not feel confident tinkering in the BIOS, DONT. You can brick your laptop if you don't follow exactly. Stay away from any setting you don't explicitly know to change. I'm sorry to sound like a broken record here, but I just want to underline that there is risk involved if you veer off or accidentally change something you shouldn't.

BIOS tweaking:

Ok, so your throttlestop is all reset, and you've just booted back up and unlocked your BIOS. Wow, so many new options under advanced settings now!

Right, let's get to it:

Enabling C-State control (entirely optional)

• From the main BIOS menu, go to Advanced. Select Power & Performance, then CPU - Power Management Control, then View/Configure CPU Lock Options.
  • Find CFG Lock. Set it to Disabled.

AC/DC Loadline
A bit of a rundown on what this is in laymans terms. MSI has a 1.8mOhm resistor on board that is basically causing an overvolt to the processor.

This value by default is 180. It is compensating for the resistor. This is why you can run such a deep undervolt on these computers, you're making up for the resistor.

After changing this setting you will likely only be able to run a 40mv undervolt on core/cache, but it will perform similar/better than your highest undervolt prior.

• From the main BIOS menu, go to Advanced. Select Power & Performance, then CPU - Power Management Control, then CPU VR Settings, then Core/IA VR Settings.
  • Under AC Loadline set the value to 5
  • Under DC Loadline set the value to 5

IMON
This value will allow you to falsely report the TDP measurement of the processor, allowing you to reach much higher TDP without PL1/2 throttling. Throttlestop will show an inaccurate TDP reading after this. To see the real value simply add 32w to reported value ( Ex, when I am under max load I report ~33w. 33w + 32w = 65w actual).

• From the main BIOS menu, go to Advanced. Select Power & Performance, then CPU - Power Management Control, then CPU VR Settings, then Core/IA VR Settings.
  • Under IMON Slope set the value to 50
  • Under IMON Offset set the value to 31999
  • Under IMON Prefix set the value to "-" (This is very important, ensure it is not +)

Current Limits
This will allow higher current flow, as well as disabling Thermal Design Current (TDC) limiting.

• From the main BIOS menu, go to Advanced. Select Power & Performance, then CPU - Power Management Control, then CPU VR Settings, then Core/IA VR Settings.
  • Under VR Current Limit set the value to 928
  • Under TDC Enabled set the value to Disabled
  • Under TDC Current Limit set the value to 0

Energy Efficient Turbo
Disabling this will give a constant voltage for each turbo ratio.

• From the main BIOS menu, go to Advanced. Select Power & Performance, then CPU - Power Management Control, then View/Configure Turbo Options
  • Set Energy Efficient Turbo to Disabled

After all of this is done, save changes and reset.

Undervolting post Loadline modification:
So you're going to want to start very slow here. If your chip took to a great undervolt prior, I'd say start around 40mv, if not, perhaps around 20mv. (my chip will take 85mv with these changes and runs veeeery cool).

Now go benchmark your beast and watch how you never see PL1/2 again or EDP other.

For more advanced users, you can also go into the Overclocking Menu under Advanced Options and enable Memory Overclocking. Please proceed so on your own risk. I assume that if you pursue this, you know what you're doing. You can run some pretty damn high memory speeds on these laptops if you try.




hope that is to some help mate, let me know if I can further help in some way.

 

Thanks. Have you followed all the shown steps exactly or have you done some little changes/tweaks?
These settings should be save I guess... If you go too low, the system won't boot anymore I think

My English is not so well you're saying:
To see the real value simply add 32w to reported value ( Ex, when I am under max load I report ~33w. 33w + 32w = 65w actual).

Do I actually have to add the 32w to a already existing watt number, or do I have to type in the 32? Don't have the laptop right now. Maybe next week. My device was running way too hot, so I'm trying to get another one...

After tweaking the bios I won't need throttle stop anymore, right?

 

room temp is 74f or ~23c.

I'm assuming cinebench doesn't push CPU as hard for as long; either that or the cooling struggles more with GPU maxed and CPU maxed.

Re: firmware it's very simple. Download, extract, and execute the .BAT file. Reboot.

 

Is your computer configured exactly the same way it was before the BIOS update? (Did you tweak AC/DC loadlines in your previous bios as well?)

I am just trying to figure out if you are suggesting your performance gains are because of the Bios update.

 

I don't believe that is the case. I have same performance. Dragon Center WILL adjust GPU overclocks and override MSI afterburner at profile changes.

 

FYI.. for those interested in observed paste job from MSI. Here are pics once cooling heatsink removed.

 

I still get EDP Other in yellow after those BIOS CPU changes, is that normal? I saw some people having it too when they posted benchmarks.

 

how are you gonna / how did you deal with goo for VRM / memory chips?

 

I got a coupon code from GENTECH (where I bought my GE750, for STEAM to download BFV. How does a download stream RUN OUT?????

 

I paid the extra hundred bucks for a 'no bleed' version. I suck at gambling. Ended up with a flawless screen,

 

I picked up the 2080 model from MicroCenter, reduced from $2749 to $2399. 32GB RAM, 2 x 512GB SSD's in RAID. Great price.

Build quality is good, screen is excellent, no real bleeding at all. Keyboard is good. Temps are decent after undervolting (which I haven't put that much effort into yet).

However ... using either Afterburner or EVGA X1 OC scanner, I get a TDR BSOD every time.

At one point I noticed that the wifi was dropping out while the OC scanner is running, so I pulled up an internet speed test and clicked start. Then I clicked go on the OC scanner and the speedtest instantly dropped to zero. Stop the scanner, it comes right back. Let it run, BSOD at somewhere around 9 - 12 minutes in generally. Every time.

If I uninstall all the Killer drivers + suite and simply have no wifi at all, the OC scanner runs perfectly. If I just do an INF install of just the Killer 1550i drivers, BSOD. So the suite isn't the problem.

Tweaking the network card settings (power management, roaming aggressiveness, etc.) in Device Manager does nothing. If the wifi card is active, it flakes out the instant I start the OC scanner and the machine will BSOD at some point.

I can't decide whether to pull this Killer card out and throw it in the garbage and put in a straight Intel card or just take this stupid thing back to MicroCenter and be done with it.

 

didn't bother to do much - just left/reused what was already there. Not sure if I should have done anything different. Would appreciate any advice if I needed to repaste all that stuff too... reading online it seems nobody mentions it or most laptops don't even have goo outside GPU/CPU.

 

Just dont grasp why shipping with a single stick is a good idea. I've always found dual channel to be much more efficient, and when you read any stats, they mostly agree. Is it a cost thing??? I ordered dual channel when I bought this thing and havent had any issues......so far.

 

I removed it all and put TM in it's place. I would apply and then sit the HSF back on and remove to make sure all TM was compressed (making contact), once they were I applied to the CPU and GPU and haven't had any heat issues since.

 

I was thinking about the 2080 when I was shopping. But heat concerns and throttling potential made me go with the 2070. And with the cash saved from going down a level on GPU, I reinvested in faster SSDs

 

Depends on who you talk to. I have matching dual eights. If I were you I would just toss in another 16g ( from anybody) and be done with it.

 

I run stock, so that doesnt matter. But...good to know for the future.

 

I did the repaste thing and the new bios according to @spudman2080. Temps went down from 95 to 86-87 average. What I dont know is about the TDP thing. Throttlestop is reporting 5Watts max and it should be reporting 32 or some.... What could be the problem?

 

I believe one of the BIOS modifications is an offset of -32 to the power reading. So to know the real wattage, you have to add 32 to the number being reported by Throttlestop (if it reads 5 W then it's 37 W).

 

yeah, but according to @spudman2080 it should be 65W ? xD

 

I understand his 33 W reading (actually 65 W) was under max load. Are you stressing the CPU full tilt? Are all your power plans on max performance, etc.?

 

no, I dont, and dont have plans to do so, I was jus curious. Im happy now with my system behavior, could be better, but happy. ty

 

Im finding that the TDC current limit when I set it to 0 its all good but next time I get to the bios its back to what is was before, but all the other settings are saved, just that one that changes back, any ideas? thanks a lot .

 

that's normal i think. 0 for that setting is just "use default" i think

 

sorry but what's TM/HSF?

 

Is there still a chance to brick if we follow the guide exactly and dont mess with any other settings? Still a chance to under power too much using those settings? (This assumes the person has already reset their throttlestop). I'm confident in following the guides here.. just want to know my risks entirely.

Also do we need to update the bios first to do this/is there good reason to?

I still plan on repasting as well and want to know does anyone have any good opinions on Artic MX-4 vs Kryonaut (Thermal Grizzly)?

 

Kryonaut seemed to have lowered my temps by about 5c; maybe a dash less on some things and a dash more on others. Adding a cooling pad lowered temps another 2-3c. So all in all I never seem to hit 95c on CPU with ambient room around 23/24c. Pretty happy. It does seem to me that the laptop runs a few degrees cooler when using an external monitor (which I do about 70% of the time). Using a 24" gsync external monitor is perfection on this.

Average temps during any 3dmark test are like 70c/75c. Same with cinebench.

Average temps during most gaming is now 85c, with kingdom come pushing 92c.

Only 1 spike to 95 for a second in an hour of gaming. GPU stays around 75 or less.

Undervolt of ~150. GPU overclock of +145/+700 memory.

no bios mods.

Cinbench score of 1250-1270 now.

3dmark of 21100+ on firestrike / 9930+ on timespy

 

@gkfisher where did you put the cooling pad(s)?
I'm curious if bios tweaks would make it run even cooler...

 

I placed the cooling pad just below the laptop - but treat this more as a docking station for my desk. So I only use it when I have external mouse/keyboard/monitor. Honestly, it's a bit tricky to do a true apple to apples comparison because I think 1-2c of better cooling comes from the laptop being elevated off the desk and having better under chassis airflow.

This is what I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016CL2DE6/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

I don't know exactly what those abbreviations are, but from context; TM is the thermal pads, and HSF is the heat sink assembly.

 

Picked up my GE75 2080 yesterday (to replace my almost 4 year old GT80). My GE75 is stock from MSI, no reseller repaste or anything.

I'm tending to run games with the refresh set to 144hz, but with a frame cap of as close to 1/2 (72 as possible). This is to try and reduce unnecessary load on CPU/GPU. From Dragon Centre, I'm running the default "current" profile (SHIFT set to Sport, auto fans).

So far very impressed, but I have a few questions / observations I'm hoping you guys can help me with:

- GPU temps seem fine (max GPU temp observed so far when gaming is approx 75c).

- Division 2 benchmark (1080p, all graphics settings max), reports a solid 70fps, and GPU/CPU loads of 55% each. This would suggest that I have plenty of power to spare.

- However when actually playing Division 2, HWiNFO reports max CPU usage of 100%, and max CPU temp of approx 94-95, with thermal throttle reported. I don't notice this thermal throttle when gaming.

- Is this CPU thermal throttling anything to worry about, or can/should I do something about it?

- When plugging in headphone under windows, I get a pop-up asking me what device I've plugged in. Until I select something from the pop-up, the sounds is not routed via the headphones. It does this every time. This means I cannot plug in headphones mid-game, as I can't click the popup. Anyone noticed this and have a workaround?

- From the Win10, I changed the battery slider to "maximum performance" (it was in the middle "better performance"). Does this actually affect anything, and should I put it back?

- Can anyone tell me the differences between the various Dragon Center Shift modes? (Sport, Comfort & ECO are the 3 options I have). I literally cannot find any explanation not even on MSI's website lol. Does sport mode for example do any overclocking? For example, will setting it to Comfort instead of Sport impact performance in games?

Thanks in advance for the help & advice!

P.S - I would prefer not to start undervolting / tweaking etc unless absolutely necessary. This is my primary (only) laptop, so I don't want to risk stability.

 

I have the same panel, and notice the same effect. From what I understand, the ms refresh is MUCH higher (worse) if you run this panel at 60hz. Instead I'm running at 144hz native, then limiting game to as close to 1/12 (72) as possible. This way no ghosting.

 

Finally had some time to do some tweaking on my 2080 model from MicroCenter. I mentioned earlier in the thread I picked it up for $2399 w/ 32GB of RAM and 2x512GB SSDs.

I got the Chi Mei screen and have no complaints. The UFO test looks great to my eyes. There's barely any backlight bleed or glow at all. It's a vast improvement over my PowerSpec 1510 (MicroCenter rebranded Clevo P650HS-G chassis), which has some pretty egregious bleeding. This GE75 looks perfect in comparison.

The build quality and keyboard quality also demolishes the Powerspec. There are a couple of keys on the keyboard that have colors that are just slightly off if the keyboard is set to a solid color (the I and O keys look a bit darker than the rest), but that's pretty nitpicky and not very noticeable. Someone a bit more OCD about that sort of thing might find it more annoying.

I checked out the new PowerSpec machines at MicroCenter (1520 and 1720) and, yes, they're way cheaper, but in handling them you can see/feel why that is.

The SSDs are Kingston and came configured in RAID 0. Haven't benched them, don't see the point. I have a couple of 1TB Intel 660p's I'll probably replace them with when I take the noisy, useless spinning HDD out and replace it with an SSD.

I started with a -0.125mv undervolt and that was fine, so I kept creeping up and got to -0.181mv, which is where I stopped. It's been running stable for two days that way, including lots of web surfing, listening to music, gaming, and running lots of benchmarks and moderate stress testing. Super disappointed, since I was hoping for at least -0.200mv.

Actually, I didn't try anything past -180, so who knows. At any rate, it seems stable so far at idle and under varying degrees of load.

GPU is currently at +125/500. Haven't started working on the curve yet really. Honestly, I'm satisfied enough with the performance as it is that I might not even bother, except that it'll nag at me knowing it could maybe be just a little bit better.

Stock paste, with the undervolt applied, all-core turbo capped at 37, and the back of the laptop elevated so it can breathe, I'm seeing temps in the mid 60's on less demanding games and benchmarks, creeping into the low 70's while playing FC5. This is with an ambient temp of 72F/22C, fans at auto using Silent Option with a fan curve about 10% more aggressive than the default.

The fans don't tend to ramp up much at all, really. If I hit the cooler boost button the difference in noise output is huge.

Fire Strike graphics score the way it's set up now is about 26,700, and it stays pretty cool and quiet even on the stock paste, so I'm pretty happy. I created a Throttlestop profile that disables turbo that I use when I'm just surfing the web and stuff, and for the most part it runs silent.

 

Firstly, undervolting isn't really a risk. I would call it almost a necessity. Because it is done via software that only loads after you boot into windows there are many ways to fix any issues that may arise, not that it is likely to come to that. You should undervolt.

Your GPU is probably loaded to 55% because of the frame cap you placed on it. it means it can roughly push twice as many frames as the cap you set.

The audio jack detection is part of the realtek control center. Deleting that might work, I personally didn't mind it so didn't troubleshoot it.

Your CPU thermal throttling is something to worry about because you are losing performance for no reason. Undervolting is the safest and easiest way to get around it. Make sure you are not blocking the intakes at the bottom or any of the air outlets. You can buy a laptop stand with some external fans. The most dramatic results will be with a repaste of course. Also the Bios tweaks regarding AC/DC load lines would help your temperatures.

The battery slider will not effect your maximum performance, it essentially clocks your cpu higher even when not under load, so you don't have to wait for your cpu to 'wind up' when you need the performance. But in modern CPUs this happens nearly instantly anyways. In games your CPU will always run as fast as it can.

Dragon Center Shift modes, you are missing 1 profile called Turbo, which is only available when plugged in. If you don't have that you should troubleshoot around that. Under the turbo profile you can overclock your GPU and VRAM. The other profiles simply slow down your computer in every way. In echo your computer will 'feel' slower. It will increase your battery time noticeably though. Dragon Center doesn't have many supporters. Some claim it causes worse performance and recommend deleting it. I did not experience this myself, but deleted it anyways.

 

Thanks for your quick response above

Do you - or anyone else - have a clear step by step guide for undervolting, and a recommend daily (not extreme) undervolt setting to use that will be stable?

 

No one can tell you what setting is appropriate for your CPU. Each one is unique. Mine seems to be rock stable at -0.180mv, but yours might flake out at -0.100 or even less if you're super unlucky. Mine might yet flake out. It's only been a couple of days, so while I'm hopeful, I don't fully trust it yet.

As for a guide, Google one of the many excellent existing Throttlestop guides and you should be all set. There really is no risk involved unless you're foolish enough to have important unsaved files open while you are working on your undervolt.

One thing to be mindful of: don't assume that just because you can stress test, benchmark, and play games at a given undervolt that you're stable. It's often when your processor is idling or working at moderate load at reduced clocks that an undervolt will bite you.

It really is just trial and error and each CPU is uniquely capable. You might get super lucky, super unlucky, or fall somewhere in the middle, around -0.125mv or so.

-0.80mv or -0.100mv or so is a good place to start. Then test. Use your laptop the way you normally would and see how it goes. Run some benchmarks, surf the web, listen to music, whatever. If it all seems fine, go up a little more. Repeat, repeat, repeat. When it eventually crashes, back off a little bit, say from -0.150 to -0.145 or -0.140 and try that. You might be done at that point, it might be all good, or it might crash again at some point, and then you can back off a little bit more and you'll probably be all set.

Just be aware while you're actively testing stability that a crash could happen at literally any time, when you'd least expect it, and plan accordingly when it comes to saving your files and stuff.

 

Definitely good advice. Also for another example I'm only able to go up to -140. When I go up to 145 I start crashing randomly. So that was my limit. But I have seen people go up to -180. Also this is without the bios changes. After that the number will be much smaller for reasons listed in the guide

 

Would it be enough to simply use throttlestop to drop the turbo multiplier slightly, or do you recommend doing that PLUS an undervolt?

 

If you want your CPU to work as efficiently as possible an undervolt is a necessity.

CPUs are manufactured in bulk. It would take Intel forever to test each of them individually and have them ask for their own appropriate individual voltage. Some CPUs, even CPUs manufactured side by side, need way more or way less voltage than others.

For the sake of simplicity and because it would be egregiously expensive and time consuming to do otherwise, Intel figures out how much voltage it takes to run a certain lot of CPUs stably in general. That is to say, the very best CPUs are being fed just as much voltage as the CPUs that are borderline rejects.

That's why it's a lottery: You might get a golden sample that is an engineering marvel or you might get one of the ones that are duds and just barely made the QC cutoff. But in general even the duds can be helped at least a little bit, because Intel will always err on the side of more voltage and greater absolute stability.

When you undervolt all you're actually doing is giving your CPU's individual power requirements the time and attention Intel isn't able to give it. If you have a CPU (as I appear to have lucked into) that can run stably at super low voltages, then pumping it full of heat-generating current it doesn't need is wasteful and counterproductive.

For a lot of us, it's as much about the idea of efficiency and tuning as about the results, I think, but the results really do stand on their own. It would bug the crap out of me to think my CPU is boiling hot and throttling (which also drags down GPU performance and makes the machine louder and shortens its lifespan in multiple ways for no good reason) because I couldn't be bothered to take a few hours to help it work to its true potential.

If you're going to have a sports car, don't you want the engine to purr?

 

Cheers chaps, I really appreciate your time and advice. I've downloaded throttlestop and will have a play around with it later this week when I have the time. Setting turbo to 3.6, and initial undervolt of -0.80 seems like a good place to start from what I've been reading on the guides you linked.

Also, what is the risk of having throttlestop start automatically on boot? If I set an unstable undervolt, do I risk getting trapped as a result of the auto load, or in reality is that a non-issue?

And anything else you recommend doing apart from the turbo reduction and undervolt?

 

So, let me start with setting ThrottleStop to start on login via task scheduler is something you should do after you know your undervolt is relatively stable. Do not do this while you are still tweaking your undervolts. Otherwise every time you boot into your system, ThrottleStop will run, and your system will crash.

Dropping your turbo multiplier will reduce your temperatures, but you can try and see if undervolting alone will get you reasonable temperatures on its own. Because you decided not to do Bios tweaks, your computer will not run faster than 3.2-3.3 gHz longer than 28 seconds until your cpu power throttles (That is how long the Turbo Boost lasts, power throttle is displayed as pl2 in ThrottleStop). Therefor you shouldn't see a change in your thermals while gaming with 3.6 ghz multiplier (Since while gaming your CPU is already running slower). You would have to drop your multiplier pretty low to get real drop in temperatures over long sessions, which isn't a great option.

You probably got the idea from the tutorials you must have seen on ThrottleStop. But start with -100 mV ish. Then run some CPU benchmarks, if it doesn't freeze or blue screen, drop another .005 - 0.01 V. My computer runs through a cinebench r15 run on -160 mV but during real world use it crashed a few times in game over the next weeks, and I dropped the undervolt 1-2 mV each time, now happily sitting on -152 mV for weeks with no crashes. It will take a little time.

Since you have a 2080 laptop, before underclocking your CPU, I would seriously consider a repaste to avoid a bigger cpu bottleneck.

 

From my experience if you go slow (I do 5 or 10mv at a time) you can safely have Throttlestop auto start as I always do. In a rare emergency where it didn't boot long enough for you to change the setting you can you can always just go into safe mode and rename the exe or remove the task scheduled item for Throttlestop to not have it start up. First time I see any sort of unexpected crash I reboot and move the setting back and see if the crashing stops or not. 99% of the time it will boot just fine and you can change the setting quick.

Another small trick if above info scares you. Leave one of the 4 standard profiles totally stock, and make that your "AC profile" (there is a checkbox for that) so it will always start up stock and you manually move it to the profile you've tweaked. Once you get it stable and where you want it, make that tweaked profile the "AC default" instead and you won't need to manually change profiles each reboot since the risk of crashing is basically gone.

 

Thermal paste and heatsink and fan.

 

Congrats on that price, I paid barely any less from Amazon warehouse deal where mine was probably a return! So I took a chance but it turned out very well for me.

Another options for you for those smaller SSD's is to grab a 2.5" adapter and install them in there, and put that in place of your spinner. They won't be as fast but still be SSD's, no moving parts, and much faster than a spinning drive. I have used one for M.2 SATA drives and it worked great but you would need one that works with M.2 NVMe drives, maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Drive-SFF-8639-Interface-Non-SATA/dp/B07J2T33Z3. I can't vouch for this exact one since I've never used it. Cheap solution to use your existing hardware, albeit you end up with "only" another 1TB of SSD.

 

Also is it normal for temps to jump to 95 within the first 30 seconds of starting up? It cools down fairly fast there after but.. seems weird.

 

Also this happens to me.




Is it just cycling constantly between onboard graphics and the Nvidia card? When I run a game.. it uses the Nvidia card and is fine. The GPU activity says that no processes are using the Nvidia card so I'm not sure why it would be cycling if so.

 

That is "normal" behavior with Afterburner running, even in the tray. Basically,Afterburner is causing the dGPU to wake up over and over, so that's why your graph looks so bouncy.

You'll see the clocks go to zero, bounce back to low/idle, go to zero, and so on. I read something about it somewhere, with the Afterburner developer basically saying it's a hard problem to solve or something like that. You might be able to Google for more, or someone else might know more about it.

The only solution, as far as I know, is to manually exit Afterburner if you're going to be on battery power so that the integrated GPU can take over without your dGPU waking up every few seconds (white power button, not orange, with Afterburner not running).

If I have Afterburner running, even minimized to the tray, my power button never turns white. If I kill AB the power button turns white a few seconds later.

As for your machine ramping up to 96 degrees, that's no good. Something isn't right. Mine didn't get anywhere near that high, even before I undervolted. Unless you have it sitting on a blanket or something that is smothering the intake vents on the bottom, it sounds like a bad paste job, or your fans aren't spinning up appropriately or something.

The problem I'm having is that Silent Option and steamwebhelper.exe keep attaching themselves to the discrete GPU no matter how many times I manually tell them to use the Intel one. Well, that might be because I updated the nVidia drivers, so maybe it'll go away when I reboot.

 

Well my paste will be here tomorrow.. so I'll be able to rule that one out tomorrow night at least. Hopefully thats all it is. My temps have always been abnormally high (imo) than I'd like them to be. Really hope that clears it up. I just reset my throttlestop settings so that I can try the advanced bios settings and hopefully that helps as well. Thank you very much for the info about Afterburner. I honestly had no idea!

(Also certainly not sitting on a blanket )

 

A listing has popped up for the GE75 with the new Intel Core i9 9th Gen 9880H on Newegg!

The new CPUs might more power efficient, and a GE75 heatpipe revision might be coming?