*** The Official 2019 MSI GS65 Stealth with RTX GPUs Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

I saw little to no gain going to dual channel in Witcher 3... not sure if that game is an outlier though. I wish I tested more games before and after.

 

Good morning!

I was running some loose benchmarks to get a better all around idea of how my new GS65 Stealth-9SE with a GTX2060 is performing. Would you guys mind letting me know how these temps/numbers look?

ThrottleStop settings = https://imgur.com/a/hjuNzgg
Idle CPU = 41C
Idle GPU = 44C
Speedshift = 127
Undervolted core voltage = -129.9
Undervolted cache voltage = -129.9
Underclocked speeds = 34/34/33/33/32/32(6 cores) - These are bumped way down from stock but I'm wondering if I could/should raise them up a little more? The temps below are with these clock speeds:

WoW-GPU = 65C
WoW-CPU = 60C
FPS = 60-80fps

PoE-GPU = 70C
PoE-GPU = 62C
FPS = 60-100fps

FFXIV-GPU = 72C
FFXIV-CPU = 64C
FPS = 85-100fps

Cinebench = 74C
Score @ 2.6Ghz (why was it only testing my CPU at 2.6Ghz?) = 2483

ThrottleStop Bench = 73C @ 117.226 seconds

Any suggestions? I have not re-pasted yet. I'm only running TS and Silent Option.

 

Looks like solid temps. I do not see any reason to repaste with numbers like that.

Just picked up my GS65 today. Did you update the bios right away? My CPU does not seem to want to go over 4200 either.

 

Hey. I am considering buying this one, if you are able would you mind setting stock clocks, max fan speed and run aida95 or prime95 for 5 minutes and post max temps please?


I want to see if it's worth it over my MSI GS65 8SE.

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I updated the BIOS and EC about a day after getting it and testing the temps on the shipped firmware. The BIOS and EC update didn't seem to affect much from what I can tell. I'm going to add an additional SSD, so I figured since it was already torn apart, I'd re-paste. But, I may not. Not sure yet.

Yeah, I wanted to do this for my own testing anyway. I'll report back as soon as I've done this. So far, I'm really liking this laptop. I think it was a good choice over the comparable Gigabyte and Razer Blade 15.

 

Okay, so...I reset back to stock voltages and clocks. Before that, though, I ran Prime95 for 5 minutes on the voltages and clocks I posted above.

These are the results for the clocks posted above:
On Prime95, the CPU got to 84C before Power Throttling down to 3.03Ghz. The hottest the CPU got after the Power Throttle was 78C.

These are the results for stock voltage and clocks:
Idle temperatures fluctuate between 47-55C.
On Prime95, the CPU immediately spiked to 91C before Thermal Throttling AND Power Throttling down to 2.6Ghz.
The highest the CPU got after the Power and Thermal Throttle was 80C.

How can I stop the Thermal and Power Throttle?

 

Here's a comparison to my earlier post with my temperatures. Which setting do you guys think I should stick with? The settings below are a higher clock speed across all cores with slightly higher voltages (-125 vs -129 posted earlier), so naturally the temperatures are slightly higher. I didn't notice any real FPS increase with the increase of clock speed. The Cinebench score was only 3 points higher, the TS bench was 10 seconds quicker but was also 9C hotter. The in-game temps, well, you can compare and let me know which you think is better.

ThrottleStop settings: https://imgur.com/a/IGbQRSR
Idle CPU = 44C
Idle GPU = 46C
Speedshift = 127
Core voltage = -125.0
Cache voltage = -125.0
Clocks = 40/39/38/37/36/35(6 cores)

WoW-GPU = 73C
WoW-CPU = 63C
FPS = 60-80fps

PoE-GPU = 71C
PoE-GPU = 66C
FPS = 60-120fps

FFXIV-GPU = 71C
FFXIV-CPU = 66C
FPS = 50-100fps

Cinebench = 79C
Score @ 3.3Ghz = 2486

TS = 82C @ 108.513 seconds

Thank you!

 

I'm considering a SSD upgrade also. Waiting to see how a egpu works with it before proceeding. If the egpu is good then I'll repaste when in there. I'm seeing uneven temps across the cores and still hitting high 80s in Prime95 after .130 undervolt.

 

Yeah, you may not see much lower than 80s with Prime95. I was seeing 80C with Prime95 but only after Thermal and Power throttling.

 

I wish every day was like today, idling temps on 29-31c, colder than the usual temps of my watercooled desktop (15 degrees ambient):



Got my best firestrike score yet: https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/36037617?

I'm seriously considering moving to a colder city

 

I think it would be cheaper to buy a mini fridge and use a cooling pad to blow the cool air at the laptop ;p

 

What the hell? What are your fans like right now?

 

Sounds like a plan. Or I can just put the laptop in the fridge and get an HDMI cable out to the monitor

I'm pretty sure they were off, usually my idle CPU temp is 15 degrees above ambient temp. If you mean my curve it is 0, 50, 70, 80, 120, 150

 

I thought that was part of the GS65 design. Mine is idling at 29-30. I did delete a few windows apps and dragon center.

 

Yours idles at 29-30C?

 

Yes. Idle as in no apps open other than Throttlestop and the misc windows apps that always runs. Cortana, Phone, Edge, Dragon Center, True Color, and Skype have been deleted.

 

Does the tb3 port support dual monitors? Also, is the iGPU or the dGPU wired to the tb3 port?

 

Wow, mine idles at very low 40's and that's with nothing running. I'm even down-clocked a lot and undervolted.

 

Open up Task Manager and start deleting useless windows and MSI apps. The CPU clock hovers just between 900mhz and 1000mhz at idle.

 

Managed to get a score of 12,770 in Firestrike. Not sure if that's good or not.

 

It can certainly be improved by overclocking the GPU/VRAM.

 

Hmm...I didn't consider doing that on this new laptop. I've been chasing lower temperatures, so I've only been focused on undervolting.

 

Overclocking and undervolting the GPU won't really increase the temps. You'll probably just hit 70C across different games.

 

I think that's the highest score yet for the 2060 in this forum. What changes did you do to the 2060?

 

That's perhaps a bit below average for the 2060 version all stock. You should check if you're having thermal throttling on CPU and OC your GPU a bit. Also make sure all background apps and stuff like GeForce experience services arent running while you run firestrike.

I got a better one today (cold 10-15 Celsius day): https://www.3dmark.com/fs/19308892. On the GPU I have a custom curve (+195 core/+1170 mem) and 90w vbios. That plus RAM OC and the usual 8750 tweaks and a bit of luck I guess. Still not as high as some Acer or Razer laptops sadly.

 

Nice results! I couldn't get my memory as high before artifacts, mind posting picture of MSI AB Curve?

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How do you stop/prevent thermal and power throttling? I mentioned in a post a couple days ago that I was experiencing that in CPU benchmark tests, but I didn't know how to stop it from happening. Would you mind posting your 2060 overclock numbers in MSI Afterburner?

 

I currently have 2 preset curves, one is the "safe curve" which I've tested thoroughly and use for gaming, which is +175 core / 1077 mem and the other one which I'm still tweaking which is the "alright, I can't go any higher than this before stuff starts breaking curve". currently on +200 core / + 1294 mem. Here's both:

 

Thank you!

Unrelated question - How does one prevent power/thermal throttle with the new 9750H? Do all of the mods posted by hackness for the 8750H work for the new 9th gen CPU?

 

You, sir, have hit the jackpot on that card. Must be binned really well. I have roughly +250 on my core clock and my memory simply refuses to be clocked higher. In fact, games crash if memory is clocked above +200. Also, the performance usually deteriorates when memory is clocked up by +150 along with the +250 on core clock for me. What luck! I just manage 16k on the firestrike graphics.

 

Yeah, I just OC'd my 2060 by 100Mhz (core) and it brought my Firestrike score up from 12,770 to 13,487.

With some small tweaks to my power plan and lowering my EPP a bit (from 127 to 63), my CPU temp during benchmarks now hits 81C. Before, it was never hitting over 75C for any benchmark.

 

I think it's worth a shot? Perhaps take a look at the bios tweaks and see if the default parameters look anything like the ones from the 8750h. Undervolting should be pretty safe though, and you could take a look at repasting with some high quality paste or LM (if it doesn't void your warranty)

A lot of it is tweaking too, when I first got my laptop I was super disappointed with the performance out of the box, to the point that I was even thinking on returning it and buying a GE75 Raider instead. I had trouble overclocking the GPU core/memory as well. Now with overclocked dual channel ram + repasting + 90w vbios and GPU OC + tweaks I seem to get much better overall system stability with higher GPU clocks, and I think that's gonna be enough for me for the next 3 or so years

127 is a pretty conservative EPP, I usually just set it to 0 but keep the multipliers down to 34-35 to avoid overheating/throttling. I also raised PROCHOT to 95 degrees but I seem to stay below 85 on all games

 

So it's safe to raise the PROCHOT to 95C? What does that mean/do?

Hackness said that the 9750H BIOS are the same BIOS that ship with the 8750H, so...in theory, the same tweaks/mods should apply to the new gen. And yeah, I've posted a few times now about my undervolting. I can't seem to get beyond -125, really. Setting my EPP to 0 makes my temperatures much hotter. So maybe I should lower my clocks to account for that. I'm also going to repaste with some Kryonaut whenever I install my new NVME drive, but that won't be until next week.

 

Do you set all 6 cores to 34 or 35?

 

Sorry for all the quotes, but for your EPP, did you also match it to Windows?

 

It basically means that your CPU temp will go up to 95 degrees before it starts thermal throttling

I have 4 profiles in throttlestop, Gaming for 60fps games (AC: Origins, Wildlands, Witcher 3), gaming for 144fps games (OW, Apex), max performance and battery. First one looks like this:



The 144 one is pretty much everything 35 except for 6 cores which is 34 and max performance is max multipliers

Yep

 

So you set your Windows EPP to 0%?

I lowered my EPP down to 0 and lowered my clocks just a bit to offset the extra heat and my Firestrike score actually went down.

 

If you lower clocks your physics score will drop this dropping overall score

You don't need 3.9GHz for some games, for instance I get 144 with 3.9 on warframe (max settings) and 120 frames with 3.6 GHz, my 35 inch monitor is 60 Hz so I leave the 3.6 GHz

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Does anyone know how to program any of the keys on the keyboard to control media playback (play/pause/next/back)?--Thanks, N123

 

Hi! I have a new GS65 with a 2070, stock paste. Every time there's high CPU usage it climbs to 90 C in a couple of seconds, thermal throttles, and stays around 80-90 C. The CPU freq stays around 3.9 GHz, but the fans make a lot of noise.

I have undervolted to -0.150 but temps don't change much. I want to try setting the IA AC / DC loadline = 1 in the BIOS settings to eliminate the overvolting and hopefully keep the temp lower, right? Noot planning on touching the rest of settings.

Can I keep using the Dragon center or will it mess with this? I like the different fan profiles, which I cannot find on Silent option. Thanks!

 

Hello Sir, I've written several posts I'll combine the main points for you;
As I have chosen to do the same: keep stock bios, use ThrottleStop, use Dragon Center [mainly to set battery charge profile to only charge if at 70% up to 80% - my last 2 laptops batteries died prematurely from always being plugged in]
The information hopefully is of relevance and assists you.

Fan noise is going to happen in any strong and thin device, but there are ways you can assist it. This is the basic version to the more complex versions out there )

------------------------------
A) ThrottleStop:
Profile 1 Performance:





I don't know why people don't leave all the Turbo settings at 41 from 1 to 5 cores as it will never get near max temp or power usage, so why not unlock full performance there?
-It is the 6 core one that is the concern - it reaches the max temp and power use, so lower it 1 by 1 until you are at the number that doesn't push you to max temp based on your device and ambient temps, or lower it even further to reduce fan speed noise...
-Power throttle is fine as it allows you to get a boost at the beginning of a heavy process and then it will run at its max capacity on its own, no problem with that.

Profile 2 Battery:
Everything same except on main page check C1E, on TPL same, on FIVR: set all cores turbo rate limits to 25 (or less to conserve more) and windows battery slider to balanced or lower.

You must also go to your task scheduler and add Throttlestop to start on user login using admin rights, you can find in the second post on the ThrottleStop Guide Thread.

Note: Speedshift made a huge improvement on in game temps by almost 20C reduction but no loss in performance. I disabled speedstep in the bios as my only bios change after I noticed this, not sure yet still whether to leave off or on haven't done much testing.

My bench scores also improved by 5% by enabling speedshift:



However my PerformanceTest scores are lower - I don't know when that happened, I last checked 25 days ago, I believe it may be from installing Comodo AV/firewall and other programs I have added since then.

------------------------------------------

B) Dragon Center: disable all profile hotkeys!!!! and only set them if you need them to unique combinations, the defaults are too common and I hit one in a game to theatre mode which has a fan curve all at 0 and it became a hot throttling mess.
I leave the shift at Sport and it doesn't seem to interfere with much, at turbo I noticed a few anomalies but haven't tested much.

Note: also set up Dragon Center to run in task scheduler same as ThrottleStop

-------------------------------------------

C) Extras:

1) Do all MSI driver updates. I had issues first with: gpu not switching (reinstalled nvidia gpu drivers and then it worked to switch properly), still having an issue with Nahimic not working with headphones plugged in though, only works on Bluetooth connection.

2) Get a cooling pad or stand/fan, reduces internal temps by 3-6C or more.
You can see my comments on that on the bottom of my thread here.
I'm using a stand and dual usb fan's behind it.

3) Hackness warned to not drain these batteries for constant periods over 40W, which means gaming or heavy processing, or they can swell and damage the device badly.

4) Never run the laptop on external monitor with lid fully closed - it can't radiate the heat and will likely overheat, and damage the screen.


Hope that helps - I don't have the same skill as some others here but I'm choosing the same boat as you - for now.

 

Thanks for the detailed answer, unfortunately I might not made myself clear: I have modified the locked BIOS settings for reducing the overvolting, and I'm asking if it can coexist with Dragon Center for fan profiles.

Actually, after setting both IA AC and IA DC loadline to 1 in BIOS (nothing else changed) the temperatures are the same. Funny thing is, I can still undervolt the CPU to around -0.090 with XTU without running into BSOD, but with no increase in temps. Dragon center is disabled via task scheduler. What am I doing wrong here?

 

Changing bios settings to achieve results is more complex than just changing one thing.
That's why I offered some more practical things that have reduced temps without much adjusting bios as you said you didn't want to change much there.
That's all..

 

Guys I just wanted to ask if flashing the BIOS to get a 90w GPU is worth the risk, is there a significant perf jump? If yes do you have any tutorial on how to do that? I have an MSI GS65 8SG.

I'm just sad to learn that the GS65 is the only laptop from a famous brand which is shipped with a 80w BIOS (while all the other have a 90w like the Razer Blade) and I never saw my GPU reach more than 85C in extensive bench (I have LM repaste).

Thank you.

 

Jrey wrote a guide on this post about it. Hackness did as well. Can probably search for it when I get home.

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For me it's absolutely worth it. I'm consistently under 80 degrees while gaming with a tweaked Afterburner curve and performance gains are around 15% both in games and benchmarks, its very noticeable on GPU bound games. I have these two firestrike scores pre and post vBios flash to give you an idea (I have additional tweaks but those don't affect scores as much):

https://www.3dmark.com/fs/19111840
https://www.3dmark.com/fs/19308892

As for the flashing instructions, I used these: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...cussions-lounge.815216/page-365#post-10885646

 

Is anyone having troubles with their keyboard back lighting? My number "4" key went for a toss last month. The green led inside it just refused to work anymore. Now a couple days back, "P", "Fn" and "Down Arrow" had the same Green LED failure. Tried the driver reinstall. Didn't work. Any ideas?

 

IA Loadline=1 is the important setting to set.
IA DC loadline=1 seems to change the Q point (which actually reduces the load voltage slightly AND also doesn't show the proper VID after vdroop (although the true vcore can only be measured via multimeter). I'm guessing, based on load temps, DC Loadline=179 runs at about 25mv lower than DC Loadline=1, and also shows the VID dropping based on VRM loadline (which is still unknown on these laptops, but 1.8 mOhms is the default for KBL on desktop motherboards). So you guys can keep that in mind. (the DC loadline does NOT control the voltage vdroop via VRM at full load, that's hardwired into Loadline Calibration which has no available setting, it only affects the VID and CPU package power reporting (CPU package Power=VID * Amps). And there is no amps reporting (No idea where the CPU reads amps either).

On laptops, with respect to AC/DC loadline, it doesn't matter if you're using adaptive or static (Override) voltages either. All override voltage does is change the CPU VID, which is then 'boosted' by the AC loadline value and then sent to the VRM. On desktops, override voltages have no effect on the CPU VID at all, and the override voltage is sent to the VRM, and then the CPU VRM (Vcore loadline calibration) is factored into it. That's why, on laptops, when you set an override voltage, you get overvolting because of the AC loadline value, because the CPU VID is changed.

Adaptive voltage (offsets) keep the default CPU VID for that multiplier, then the AC loadline effects that.

What's funny is, on desktops (Z390), changing DC loadline does absolutely nothing to the true (CPU On-die sense) voltages or temps. DC loadline=1 is the same as DC loadline=360 for example, with 360 having a MUCH larger VID drop at full load (3.6 mOhms), and thus a much lower CPU package power. So on desktops, DC Loadline is only for power measurements and AC loadline is the important value (of course you can also change CPU vcore loadline calibration, but high levels of LLC should NEVER be used if the AC loadline is set close to its default value or higher).

 

Thanks, I'll try to look for them too

Wow impressive! Your link for the flashing instructions is not working but I'll try to find some to flash my own BIOS. I'm just afraid that later down the road I get some instabilities like BSOD or things like that. Did you ever experience these kind of things?

 

Hello all,

I am just about to upgrade my MSI GS65 8SE 2060 Best Buy addition with an inland premium 1 TB nvme m.2 pcie ssd (uses the Phison E12 with Toshiba's 64L 3D TLC NAND, like many other drives: MyDigital BPX Pro, Sabrent Rocket, Silicon Power 34A80, Corsair Force Series M510, addlink S70, Seagate Firecuda 510, Gigabye Aorus, Patriot Viper VPN100, HIKVision C2000,etc) and also 16gb of crucial ram. A couple questions:

-SSD upgrade: I don’t have an external enclosure so I plan to install the new “untouched” SSD in the single free slot in the GS65, clone the old drive over while it is in the laptop with Macrium Reflect/similar, and then switch the boot drive in the bios after the fact. Anyone see any problems with this approach? I read something about people having trouble cloning 512 sector drives to these new 4k sector SSD’s but I think this has to do with legacy hardware and shouldn’t be an issue with the above? Also both of the SSD slots in the GS65 support the same full speed/pcie 4 lanes, correct?

-I plan on keeping the stock 16gb stick and adding a second stick of crucial DDR4-2666 16gb SODIMM ram (same class latency/etc) instead of buying a whole new matched 2x16gb kit. Anyone using unmatched pairs (i.e. not from a kit/not same brand, but same size/class latency/etc)—it is my understanding that in most cases this should be ok?

Thanks,

N123