*** The Official 2019 MSI GS65 Stealth with RTX GPUs Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

Oh ok, thanks a lot!

 

Svet is one of the top modders who reverse engineered BIOS, EC, and VBIOS firmware of MSI systems and he has in-depth knowledge with them.

 

Okay. Tbh even if I can trust the guy I have to be honest, I'm freaked out by the idea of flashing my BIOS lol. I'll prob try to find another solution before taking this path.

Wanted to ask you another question: When on battery the system downclocks itself to 1.6ghz, that really downgrade the user experience while browsing the web or even doing non-demanding tasks. I tried to tweak a few things here and there with Windows power options and dragon center but I still get this 1.6 downclock. Ideally, I would like to disable Intel SpeedStep and Intel Hyperthreading when the computer is on battery instead of downclocking it to 1.6ghz (this way the notebook stays at its base 2.2ghz speed). Is there a way to do that from the BIOS without having to flash it? Thanks!

 

GS65 doesn't have g-sync. But does it have free sync?
I don't really know what g sync is but it seems like people are saying at 144hz g-sync doesn't matter too much. I have no clue. is g sync the same as free sync? There seems to be something called adaptive sync too?

 

Managed to flash the ASUS Strix II 90W RTX 2060 VBIOS. Followed Hackness guide from the 2018 GS65 Board.

Previous graphic score average was 16500. Personal best of 17000.

Post flash

17439 on graphic OC to 220/250 core/mem

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Are you seeing realistic gains in FPS while gaming? Also, how did the temps react?

 

I just got mine and I suspect I may have a problem with the fans, could you help me check?
Only one of the fans seems to be operational, the other showing as 0 RPM all the time.
In Dragon Center when using Cooler Boost, this is how it looks like:
https://i.imgur.com/Awczptz.png

How does it look like for you guys?

EDIT: Opened the case up, indeed the CPU fan doesn't spin. Probably shipping-related.

 

Funny, I don't have any games installed on it. At least not demanding or triple AAA.

Temperature on Firestrike GPU Maxed out at 68°C.

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Hey guys i posted this before, but ive had the same issue occur again and i cant seem to fix it.

My GS65 wont play audio through any headphones again. It was fine out of the box and for a few weeks but then it suddenly stopped playing any audio with headphones connected. I solved the issue last time by using the MSI driver updating software to download the Realtek Audio driver and reinstalling. All of a sudden this morning again, nothing comes out when headphones are connected.

This time ive tried uninstalling and re-installing numerous driver versions but nothing is working. The speakers work fine.

This is extremely frustrating. Would anyone have any suggestions as to what is happening?

 

Man I know someone somewhere on this thread or the 2018 GS65 thread posted The order in which you need to install Realtek and nahimic. If I find it I'll post link.



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anyone getting very unstable frametime spikes with silent option? basically, after a while frametimes become incredibly unstable and restarting silent option fixes it. tested games: apex, overwatch, csgo. the problem doesnt even appear by closing silent option and not using it at all before gaming

 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/34880071 - 90W VBIOS
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/34345569 - 80W VBIOS

https://1drv.ms/f/s!ArgNvCzXGkEXylrfp8LdSazt0iYi - ASUS STRIX II 90W RTX2060 VBIOS

Pre-Flash MSI GS65-8SE 80W: https://1drv.ms/f/s!ArgNvCzXGkEXyFSnHssiX7pAx9XV
Asus Strix II 90W GPU-Z: https://1drv.ms/u/s!ArgNvCzXGkEXyls0gqi-N0_sbjdP
Post-Flash MSI GS65-8SE 90W: https://1drv.ms/u/s!ArgNvCzXGkEXymFe58MnaE8rQ8zn

@hackness 's guide to flashing http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...cussions-lounge.815216/page-365#post-10885646

As you can see, the GPU-Z stats change, memory manufacture and subvendor stays the same (according to hardware specifications of card, regardless of what GPU the VBIOS comes from)

 

how does the 2060 config and 2070 max q compare?
the 2060 is the normal one right?
how do these laptops compare?

 

I feel the 2070 isn't worth it. I would either go 2060 (improvements is minimal compared to 1070 - Spec/benchmark/hardware wise - , BUT improved cooling and chassis rigidity) and not insanely expensive. Or 2080 for the noticeable improvement in performance.

 

Yeah that's what I thought too.
I saw the benchmarks and didn't seem like it was too much improvement since 2060 is using the normal 2060 card (I think)

 

It’s a mobile 2060. It 80W or 90W, desktop 2060 is 180W.


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GSync is ngreedia stuff. Freesync is opensource (I think) and is AMD stuff. Adaptive Sync is what both technologies essentially are. For Gsync to work, your GPU needs to be directly connected to the monitor. As we know, this is not the case with our GS65 Devices. There was a rumor that our displays might get licensed by Nvidia and therefor we could activate GSync through the Bios (that would turn off the Intel GPU) but I neevr heard anything about that anymore. Since the 2k19 GS65 edition also didn't get anything i this direction, I think it's safe to assume that we wont ever get Gsync support for our built in Displays.

But you can still use GSync and Freesync on externally connected Displays. But this works only on the displayport at this time, since Nvidia doesn't support Freesync over HDMI (yet?).

As far as I understand, if you for example have a 144hz monitor but play a game with lets say 80fps, the monitor will... 'sync' to 80hz so you don't get tearing. Otherwise it would want to refresh 144 times a second, but only have 80 pictures to work with. This explanation of course could be totally wrong though so better just look it up.

So in short, our built in displays (now) support neither Gsync nor Freesync. But since our ports are directly wired to the dGPU, you can connect displays supporting either technology.

 

I'm in two minds about mine at the moment. I've got a GS65 8SE with an RTX 2060. On the one hand I really like the specs, performance, size etc but on the other there's a few niggles I've got with it.

1). When I use it on my lap the casing seems to sag a bit in the middle, between the two screen hinges. It's fine if it's on a flat surface like a table though, but it does make me wonder how much it's causing the PCB to flex inside and what effect that will have on it over time and with continued heat cycles.

2). I can always hear a fan. Even at idle I can hear a slight whine coming from it with the fan at ~2600rpm and I don't believe it's possible to slow it down any further. It's not unbearable by any means but it's just a slight noise that's there.

3). My touchpad seems to have any issue. If I press it lightly it sort of feels like a slight click, but it actually isn't. That means to do an actual click I have to do what feels like a two tiered button press, a bit like a full force touch click on a MacBook Pro with pressure sensitive touchpad and it just doesn't feel right.

Anyone else have any these issues? The touchpad seems the weirdest to me as I'm sure I didn't notice it at first, I think it's something that's developed after a couple of days.

 

I didn't notice that on my side. It's fairly robust and stable.

You can customize your fan speed in dragon center: Put the fan speed to "advanced" and customize it to put the fans at 0% on the first slider. I managed to make my unit 100% silent on battery by also tweaking the Windows power options. Create a custom plan and then configure the "Processor power management" as follow:
- Minimum processor state - On battery: 60%
- System cooling policy - On battery: Passive
- Maximum processor state - On battery 98% (here it's interesting because if you put it to 99% or 100% you'll notice a very low coil whine noise from the CPU, putting this setting to 98% will allow you to not hear it and at the same time that won't degrade your user experience on battery. Even putting it to something like 92% or 95% degrades my user experience on battery and I can feel the OS slowdowns). Maybe it's just my unit but give it a try if you have a coil whine noise coming from your unit too, it's actually not the fans.

You can probably configure it so you can make a tap to click. I didn't notice any issues so far (excepted that I find the trackpad being too large and the palm detection not always working reliably)

 

Why do you put your min processor state on battery to 60%?
Wouldn't that just waste battery power, since your cpu will always try to be at 60% performance minimum?

I put my min states for ac and battery to 0% and never had any problems ._.

 

Hey everyone, thanks for all the help on this thread thus far, lots of useful information I've implemented into my GS75 2080 max q. That being said, I need some help/advice on whether I need to send my pc back to be repasted or fixed or whatnot.

I've been struggling getting my GPU scores where they need to be. I was expecting that with Throttlestop undervolting and Gentech PC liquid metal and dual channel 16 gb total ram I would have decent scores, but my benchmarks are:

With 100% fan speed:
Firestrike: (15727) https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/34905300?
Firestrike: (15638) No throttlestop: https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/34906258?

With 150% (cooler boost) fan speed:
Firestrike: (16425) https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/34905887?
Timespy: 7281 score. 7381 graphics score. 6745 CPU score

Cinebench R15 score is 1050 with no throttlestop and regardless of fan speed. 1142 with throttlestop.

I've done ALL suggested tweaks in the nvidia settings, power plan settings, etc. I also did a clean OS install and reinstalled nvidia drivers when I first got the laptop which improved my benchmark scores. My timespy score is a little below average but my firestrike scores are significantly lower. Also when I play anthem at ultra preset on Freeplay, my fps averages 45-55 fps and I believe that I'm thermal throttling as I'm stuck at 79 degrees C on the GPU with below 1099 MHZ core clock speeds. If on cooler boost I get an extra 5 fps.

So my questions are:
1. Is this within normal limits for what I should expect from a $2800 laptop.
2. Do PC reviewers run benchmarks at cooler boost fan speeds or normal fan speeds?
3. Should I send my pc back to have the liquid metal reapplied or returned?
4. Is it smart to raise the GPU temperature limit higher than 79 deg C and if so, how would I do that?
5. Does anyone know of a guide to disassemble the GS75 to access the GPU to repaste if I so choose to do so myself? lol

Sorry for the long post, I've been exhausting all options. Thanks!

 

" Is this within normal limits for what I should expect from a $2800 laptop." I don't own this model (I was just curious to check out what other people think of it). I personally don't think the 80W 2080 max q is worth it, unless you can get the lenovo y740 with a steep discount.

To put things in perspective, I own the clevo PB71EF-G which was almost $1000 less, and all of my scores beat yours, and I'm still running a single channel ram and gsync is enabled (both of which would negatively impact scores).

I just ran both firestrike and timespy, and the max CPU was 80 degrees and the GPU doesn't go above 70 (I have a full 2070). Firestrike is 16670, timespy is 7445 (timespy graphics are 7769, cpu score is lower because of single channel ram), and cinebench is 1244.

I would imagine anyone who runs a benchmark would do so at the fastest fan speeds possible. Ultimately if you are going to spend $2800 on a laptop, you presumably either want the absolute best portability in terms of weight/thickness, and/or the absolute best build quality in terms of the chassis. But you can spend a lot less money and get much better performance.

 

Just got my GS65 back from repair, and noticed MSI updated their Nvidia drivers on 3/14, only instead of stepping forward, they've stepped back - from 419.17 (launch drivers) to 417.77.

Any guesses at what that means?

 

Here's the HWINFO results during my firestrike run of 16230.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1audS4P6ZeyD_VFn3dFzPtUPLPrIkf5-B/view?usp=sharing

My gpu temp maxed out at 76 for the benchmark.

In a nthem at ultra preset and cooler boost fan mode however, I am getting temperature limited at 79 degrees according to HWINFO and rivatuner:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/10PhFdZjFhTWuesJsZM_f4Tn8YLx08d7W/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DasTifweh2P7bOwJjq0ztHxmTOGV__kz/view?usp=sharing

So do I have insufficient heat control or power control or am I just being anal?

 

Try to put this parameter to 0 and run cinebench, then try with 100%, you won't get the same scores. In fact, having this to 60% result in the same score as having this to 0%... So I've set it to 0% like you lol

 

Yeah sounds like you're hitting thermal limit.

The cooler a Nvidia GPU is, the higher it will boost (If the Power Limit is not reached yet)

I don't know of a way to modify the max allowed Temp, so you will propably need to get your temps down.

Did you try MSI Afterburner Freq/Curve Modifikation yet?
In short, offset overclocking the GPU will result in an indirect undervolt, as for the same voltage, the gpu will clock higher. So you could determine a Curve Point and flatten everything after it.

Maybe even trying to limit your CPU just to see if that's the thing that affects your thermal throttle could help. As far as I know, CPU overheating will not only themal throttle the cpu but also the gpu and vise versa. It's that BD Prochot thing that you can see in Throttlestop. So you need to keep both Thermals under control.


And of course the normal "Check your Laptop environment" stuff. You should prevent it sucking in the hot Air it just got rid off (Too close to a wall, Corners etc.). If it's connected to an external Display, let its lid open.

For your Disassembly Question: There is a guide to apply LM to the GS65 on YouTube, but I don't know if you can apply that guide to your device. I was only able to find a guide to change your ram and ssd on the GS75, but that doesn't involve disassembling the heatpipes.

 

You are definitely not hitting thermal throttling on your GPU.
In case of firestrike, you have hit power limit as can be seen from the photo you shared.
As for Anthem, you haven't even hit power limit. I think your CPU is the issue. Why don't you try this -

If you don't have your Bios unlocked, close throttlestop.
Open XTU
set short turbo max power to 55W (PL2 in throttlestop)
set an undervolt of 125mV(to begin with)
Don't make any changes to CPU multipliers.

Run Firestrike and Anthem again and share screenshots of CPU and GPU from Hwinfo. Remember to reset logs just before start of Anthem/Firestrike and take screen shot as soon as you finish FireStrike and Anthem so that the average values in HWinfo hold value. So basically, you need to show 8 screenshots of HWinfo - 4 for CPU, 4 for GPU.

We can help you further once we see those screen shots.
Next step would be to undervolt your GPU or rather, push up the curve by +150MHz to begin with and then flat-line it at 1800MHz.


EDIT: Your GPU max power draw during anthem is around 68W.
Do you still have dragon center in your laptop? Have you set the mode to "Comfort"? The reason I ask this is because comfort limits power to GPU to 70W, which seems to be eerily close to your max power draw during anthem. Change the mode to sport and try again.
Infact, get all the screenshots with sport mode and cooler boost on.

 

I’ve been using a ram overclock for the past week that’s proven stable in gaming and heavy load.

Kingston 32GB 2666 (dual channel).

I set mine to 15-15-15-30, 1n. CPU scores went up a bit and actually seems to help with my 3.6GHz setup as game benchmarks showed FPS within 1FPS of running my CPU at 3.9GHz.

If you try this and it’s not stable, try 15-17-17-35 1n. That’s the same speed as the HyperX Impact and that was stable for me as well

YMMV.

GLHF


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Hey everyone.

I am finally at the point of trying to tune battery performance. I have been unsuccessful at disabling the nVidia card when on Power Saver. Anyone have any tips for doing this? I tried disabling it in device manager, but the light still shows orange (I think that means nVidia is on).

 

If your nvidia panel shows no program is using your dedicated GPU but you still see the light in the amber color, try killing MSI Afterburner & Dragon center if you have them open.

 

:facepalm: I forgot about Dragon Center. I read that a number of times, but didn't check to see if it was in the tray. Thanks for the reminder.

On a side note, any recommendations on real-time battery usage (i.e. current watt consumption). It is helpful to see that as I disable things to identify if any impact or not.

 

Could someone with a GS65-8SE (RTX2060) confirm they can see GPU Power in HWINFO?

Mine doesn't show, I want to know if its due to me flashing 90W VBIOS. I don't remember if my stock VBIOS showed it. I think it did, almost certain.

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Hi there, thanks for the help! I had my dragon center on turbo mode with sport mode on and cooler boost on. I've applied your XTU settings, did a firestrike and anthem benchmark. I then also did a curve at around +100 MHZ which flatlined and repeated the benchmarks. I've attached all of those results to the link below:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rJeQ73N-R8iWa3EZSN6N8p0OrTDGxsWF/view?usp=sharing
(Make sure to download and view in pdf otherwise it'll be fuzzy in google preview)

I've walked through what I did within. The settings seem to of have helped but they're still pretty similar to before. What do you think? Should I send it back to be fixed?

 

GPU isn't made equal but should be close nevertheless, so if the GPU isn't defective and if MSI cannot find anything wrong with it they will just return the system back to you.

 

Very strange... The only idea left that I would have is to maybe set both in windows and nvidia control panel the performance mode to max. And then run Firestrike Benchmark again.

But there really shouldn't be a reason why your 2080 performs worse than those other 2080s from the same device.


Though these guys managed to get an even worse score than you xd : https://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/msi-gs75-stealth


These guys on the other hand got a score of almost 20 000 : https://www.notebookcheck.com/Test-MSI-GS75-8SG-Stealth-i7-8750H-RTX-2080-Max-Q-Laptop.402516.0.html (It's in German though. You can see their Benchmark Results a little bit after the middle of the website)

But maybe a difference of almost 4k points is normal... I don't know ._. They all seem to have the 2080 max q version like you do.

 

You can improve your graphics score using a driver slimmer.
Download this and the latest nvidia driver.

https://forums.guru3d.com/threads/nvidia-driver-slimming-utility.423072/

First, use DDU to uninstall your current driver in safe mode. I’d also go into airplane mode before you actually uninstall the driver.

https://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html

Next, Upload the nvidia driver in the driver slimmer app and choose the following:
-Everything in “Core”
-NGX
-USB C Driver.

You should have a total of 7 things checked.

Install the driver. Reboot. Retest.

If you’re missing your Nvidia Control Panel, download it in the Microsoft store using the link from the MSI GS65 support page, it’s under “Utilities”


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Wow. My score with undervolting cpu/gpu is now 17,010 with 19,767 graphics in firestrike. Thanks for the tip JRey!

 

Awesome. That’s about ~1000 point increase.
There’s a lot of junk it the drivers that actually saps performance. Driver slimmer will cure that.


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Have you had issues with Optimus not working? If so do you just DDU and reinstall slimmed down version over and over until it works?

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Nope. Never had issues.
But, I don’t use dragon center or MSI afterburner.

If you overclock your GPU, you can actually have the clock speeds load with windows without using afterburner. Under the profiles portion is a “load overclock with Windows” or something like that. Turn that on. It’s finicky though so save your clocks, turn it on and off, save again. Then disable AB from loading and reset your computer.
Once you load in, load GPU Z and you’ll see your clocks. If you’re using a custom curve, your clocks will look LOWER but it really isn’t.


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I assume you mean in AB the windows flag logo on the left that says "start with windows" then have it start ie. Profile 1 and then what? Disable task scheduler?

I don't use AB really other than for finding best stable OC. I swap to NVIDIA injector and run OC script in task scheduler from there.

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Maybe issues was is that I only checked PhysX, core, USB c, and 1 other, I think I only used the 1st 3 or 4 on the list from nvslimmer, I did not get the 7 you mentioned, will try that

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Yep, that’s it lol.
AB and other programs tend to activate the nvidia GPU
I also turn on the notification icon in the NCP so I can see what programs are utilizing the dGPU. Silent option was one of them until I forced it to use the iGPU.


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A few questions regarding the IA AC and DC loadline settings in the BIOS:
1) By default they were both 180 for me, and I set them to 1 as per the guide. I can't find much documentation about these settings, is there much sense in playing around with these further?
2) Once you've set these, are you guys able to apply an undervolt offset with ThrottleStop? I've done so and I'm not sure if that's good or not.

 

1 - Setting both to 1 will disable any overvolting during CPU load. This will reduce temps.
2 - you CAN undervolt further after setting them to 1 but you’ll max out somewhere around the -40mV mark. Since the CPU is now utilizing “enough” voltage, there’s less room for undervolting.


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Hmmm, I'm at -80mV with everything seeming stable. Wonder if I got a lucky chip or something.

 

Run TS bench 5 times in a row back to back. If you get no errors, you’re stable.

Use 1024 mode.


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Thanks for that, I was getting errors on TS bench but after setting -60mV looks like I'm fine.

 

You ran it 5x in a row at -60mV with no errors?


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Spoke too soon, got an error on the 4th run. Looks like you were right with the ~-40mV area.