*** The Official 2019 MSI GS65 Stealth with RTX GPUs Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

Can anyone tell me how long the power cord is from the laptop to the power brick? I was looking at the GS65 and 75 at Best Buy today. The 75 is beautiful but it would be on a cooler in my lap for hours a day and it is bigger than I was thinking. The 65 would be perfect I think except for that power cord on the right side. The outlet I use is on the left side and the cord from the laptop needs to be long enough so the brick isn't hanging in the air.

 

>>How much difference is there between the 2060 and 2080MQ at 1080p>>

https://dev1.notebook-check.com/index.php?id=844 Fire Strike about 10%, games fps about 0 to 25%.

 

I haven't measured it, but it looks pretty long, at least 5-6 ft from the brick to the laptop connection. Obviously, this length doesn't include the distance from the brick to the power outlet.

 

Thanks, sounds like that should be okay.

 

Measured, and BRICK-to-LAPTOP is exactly 6 ft long.

 

Thanks!

 

This is the only thing I did apart from LM repaste. Ok, that along with enabling Intel Speed Shift and lowering the lowest speed ratio to 800Mhz. I don't even have throttle-stop.

 

Will changing the IMON Slope in the GS65 (with 2080MQ also running at full tilt ) have any ill effects on longevity down the road? Is it electrically bad or unable to maintain properly for the system, power supply, etc?

 

Ah, and that lowered temps a bit for the CPU under load?

I noticed in your mini-guide in your review you use throttlestop to lower CPU voltage but also link to the Bios unlock guide that says:

It doesn't appear you stopped using throttlestop per you post, so did you just skip this step in the Bios tweaking guide so you could maintain the undervolt via throttlestop?

 

Okay, new M.2 NVMe installed, but I have a problem (please don't laugh):
Installation went fine, I can see the new drive (M.2 NVMe Samsung EVO 970 Plus, 1TB, in slot-2) in the BIOS, as well as in Windows "Device Manager," but I can't see it under "My Computer." (i.e. I only see my 500GB Samsung NVMe, which is where the OS is installed).

How do I "tell" Windows a new NVMe drive is installed?

*Edit-1: Nevermind - just found out I needed to initialize it through Windows Storage Management.

**Edit-2: Changed my signature

 

p.s.
It was scary opening the mobo for the first time and installing the drive, but thanks to everyone's feedback - wasn't too hard. I was nervous and kept playing the Mission Impossible theme music in my head the whole time...

 

Disk management. Right click windows, disk management. Right click the new drive and initialize and format. It’ll be gray colored before you do it.

 

Hi all, having an odd problem. I just opened the laptop for the second time to install a second 16GB stick, closed it back up, powered on, and the battery icon has an X over the system tray icon. Mouseover says "Plugged in and charging." But when you bring up MSI battery calibration, it says the battery is disconnected. When I unplug the power cable, the system stays on for a few minutes, then powers off.

I've tried reseating the battery connector but had no luck. I tried uninstalling and reinstalling the battery in device manager under batteries, but that's doing nothing either.

Anyone know what might be going on? Thanks!

 

The repaste lowered max CPU temps 4-5 degrees, whilst removing the aggressive loadline calibration in the BIOS took off a more substantial 5-6 degs. Now my max core temp is no more than 88 under prime95. No thermal throttling at all, although to make sure, I did also raise the thermal throttle threshold in the BIOS to 95 degs.

Now the limiting factor is the core power limit at 45W. Under Prime95 load total power draw I measured from the socket is just under 100W. I'm wary about raising that power limit so I didn't do that IMON slope thing. Might consider flashing the 90W 2080MQ BIOS as per JRey.

 

I just got back from BestBuy with the 2060, Looks ok, benchmarks check out, but it has this crackling noise that actually drives me mad. It is emanating from the long plastic bar on top between the hinges, or from the grille above the keyboard. It is not too bad when the laptop is cold, but once it warms up any pressure anywhere (including palmrests) causes audible crackling in this area. If you push on this bar when laptop is warm it sounds almost like mouse click with micro-switches.

Also the chassis is a little bent, like concave, the sides are higher than middle, so there is a slight wobble side to side. When looking at the feet, the pressure marks on them are on the inside only, near the center of the laptop. Compared to pictures posted by @JRey they seem to be the same, from the back the line where upper and lower parts join is bent downwards. It is minimal, like 1 mm in height difference side to center, and if wasn't for this crackling it wouldn't bother me at all.

Do you hear crackling when pushing around the power button, near hinges or on the plastic bar between hinges? It is also audible when moving the lid up and down, any noise at all, especially when the laptop is warm? I was pretty much packing this up to take back and exchange, but if this is 'normal' then I'll just live with it and do something about it when I open it up to add RAM and SSD. Because otherwise the laptop is perfect, I don't think it even needs a repaste.

 

Yeah I would just swap it out and check in store before taking it home.

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Mine creeks at the following places:

1) Near the Power button.
2) If you pinch the right side near the HDMI port.
3) lid opening/closing
4) the thing between the hinges.
5) I think my screen is a bit convex when closed. As in, the edge of the screen along the 2 hinges.

Meh.

 

Question for JRey (or anyone using throttlestop with the GS65): I'm reading your review/guide, and when in ThrottleStop, under FIVR (under your first PROFILE) in the CPU Core option - I noticed you had Iccmax set to 200.00, whereas mine defaults to 128.00.
Is that something ciritcal? Or I can leave mine (Iccmax) as is (128)?
If I need to change it to 200, like you did, what Iccmax value you used in CPU Cache and Intel GPU?

Thanks

 

Hackness let me know that, because of my IMON slope bios mod, my ICC value is 200. If I left my bios at default, I’d be at your settings.


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Cool, thanks man. I just downloaded SILENT OPTION (removed dragon center) and trying to set up the custom curve in accordance with your guide.
Under SILENT OPTION, I can see the CPU temperature, but the GPU temperature is blank. Is that abnormal?
EDIT: nevermind, the dGPU was not in use, but when in use, I can see the GPU temp.

 

Is this one version you downloaded?
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=255972.0


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Yes.

 

Sorry for the late reply...
I actually made that BIOS tweak while still using throttlestop. My maximum undervolt at full speed is now ~30mV. I have 4 throttlestop profiles with 4 different undervolt levels depending on my needs. You CAN still undervolt but don't expect to go very far. I remember reading that 40ish is the max you MIGHT be able to attain.

 

For those in Australia. GS65 with 15% discount on eBay.

Just picked up a 2060 for $1800US or about $2500 AU

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Thanks! After fiddling around and reading stuff I based my main profile on your settings, running the processor at 3.5-3.7ghz with around an 80w undervolt. I had to keep lowering it or else I'd get a BSOD after 10 mins of gameplay. My biggest goal is to get fan sound as low as possible without hitting performance badly as the sound annoys the wife (I game in the living room). I had to keep the fan settings on auto just because of how quiet they are on that setting. One hitch I ran into was that I don't think Anthem plays well with overclocked GPUs. It was crashing within the first 20-30 seconds every time (though thankfully no BSOD). Do you have that same problem?

 

I haven’t crashed on Anthem with my overclock.
I actually used the Shadow of the Tomb Raider and FFXV benchmarks to test my overclock. Both would either crash or get artifacts if I went too high.
Also, I have a new fan profile if you want to try it. I find it “fairly” quiet while keeping temps in check.

CPU - 0 > 50 > 75 > 80 > 85 > 100
GPU - 0 > 50 > 70 > 75 > 80 > 90

I do have LM repaste though so my temps may be different from yours. With my 3.5GHz profile, I am Below 72c for both CPU and GPU with the above profile, laptop elevated. While on a desk, I’m at 74c.


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UPDATE
https://www.hardocp.com/news/2019/0...tigates_spectre_related_performance_slowdown/

Looks like a new windows update has/will go out soon that will remove the Spectre performance slowdown. I'll check to see if I already have the update tonight. If I don't I'll force it LULZ

EDIT
Nevermind it appears it doesn't apply to us with Coffelake CPUs
https://www.reddit.com/r/AMD_Stock/comments/ax4x1r/for_all_amd_cpus_windows_10_update_kb4482887/

 

Slightly unrelated, but I ordered a GS65 from GentechPC on the 20th of February, and the order still shows up as "Processing" on their website. My emails and calls have been ignored.
Surely that's not normal for them? Would be interested to know among you guys who ordered it from them how long it took to ship.

 

I had somewhat of a similar experience....I cancelled my order and went elsewhere. It seems to be one guy working at the company...hard to tell though.

 

Interesting, so you canceled the payment through the bank?
I think I'll give it a few more days at least.

 

Hey all.

My GS65 2080 just arrived today. I want to configure this to get maximum battery life.

Currently it has the stock OS on it and I am wondering if I need to reformat it to remove bloatware or is the MSI pretty good about that. I see on the site that people uninstall Dragon Center and then check to make sure that the iGPU is being used. Is there anything else I should do to optimize this?

I plan on following this post: https://www.theeverydayenthusiast.com/home/review-2019-msi-gs65 but there was no mention about whether or not the OS was left alone or not.

 

No, I just got on the website and cancelled the order.

 

Mine came reformatted with no bloatware.
Really, there isn’t a lot to begin with so you can uninstall whatever you don’t want. Towards the bottom of the review is everything I did.


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Yeah, that is what I am going to follow.

I got mine from HIDevolution but did not purchase the "reformatting-and-remove-bloatware" option...I do that as a normal 2-3 times per year anyway. When I look at the OS, though, it doesn't seem like there is a whole lot of stuff on it. Norton, PhotoDirector, PowerDirector, Nahimic, Office, Evernote, and of course all the Microsoft games...I suppose I can just uninstall them. Not sure why HID wants to charge to clean off the OS if this is the real stock MSI OS.

 

Just to be clear, you need to uninstall Dragon Center to maximize battery life? I'm sorry I'm fairly new to laptop optimization.

 

Time and labor to get it bare bones.
Anyway, just uninstall everything you don’t need. You should be fine after that.
Also, look at your startup programs and task scheduler to disable anything that you deem unnecessary.


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I tend to do that regularly anyway, except I normally start from a retail OS just to be sure I am not getting something like Symantec where even uninstalling it, seams to leave stuff lingering. Norton used to be this way as well, and when I went through the uninstall they were worse than Microsoft in trying to keep me around. Are you sure? Are you really sure? We really would like it if you would tell us why? Aw come on...please! One last chance! LOL.

 

Gday guys,

I have a GS65 (2060) and have a question regarding strange issue while the laptop is on charge.

I regularly get spikes of over 90c on CPU temps and fan noise is constantly ramping up and down while just doing web browsing on chrome. I only have Silent Option installed.

CPU utilization never goes above 35% while these random spikes are occurring and ive looked at task manager and there no hidden programs causing this spike. Im 90% certain is Chrome causing this but i have no idea why the CPU temps spike so high for just light web browsing (few tabs open, maybe twitch)

Can anyone suggest why this is occurring?

 

Hardware acceleration perhaps on Chrome. If you are willing, you can edit an option in the BIOS to lower the amplitude of voltage spikes and thus temperatures spiked (to an extent).

Or set a more aggressive fan curve so that it doesn't have to constantly increase and decrease RPMs.

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Hello all. I just purchased the 2060 version from best buy and am overall quite pleased with the device. Uninstalled much of the minimal bloatware and plan to undervolt the CPU for better thermal performance. Although in my casual tests it is not nearly as bad as some other forum members.

However, as one other forum user mentioned the speakers are extremely bad. I am wondering if this unit is defective or if they are just that bad. I can hardly even watch a youtube video without volume jumping all over the place, severe distortion and crackling etc. If I have volume over 50% the computer makes heinous cracking noises.

I fully expected the speakers to be bad, and it wasn't a deal-breaker for me but sometimes I need to be able to listen to a video or sound clip without plugging headphones. I updated audio drivers to no avail. Messed with Nahimic a bit but did not make a big difference. Are your experiences similar? Or might my device be faulty?

 

Funny enough, I ordered mine on the 20th as well. I was told last week that it would be shipped last week or early this week but I'm starting to lose patience. Especially more Razer blade 15 RTX reviews have come out and it seems the cooling has been improved by a lil bit, which does tempt me a lot.

 

I was thinking about the same thing, but I didn't find the cancel button. Did you do that from your bank?

 

Weird. I'll post here when/if I get any kind of communication from them.

He mentioned later on that he cancelled directly from Gentech's website, but I can't find such a button either. Maybe his order was in an earlier state than ours (before payment had been made).

 

I see. That's what I thought too, lol.
Thanks for the reply. I will keep you updated as well. Now I'm gonna go to the retail store and compare the keyboards from both the blade and the gs65 and see how they feel, since they both have slightly short travel distance. It's just so hard to decide which to get. The blade obviously has better build quality but I think it runs hotter than the GS65 from the vids I have seen on youtube. Some people are mention that it's not thermal throttling but power throttling, but letting CPU running hot close to 95 under heavy load all the time, I wonder how is it going to affect the longevity of the laptop.

 

Be sure to contact @Kevin@GenTechPC directly. Hope your issues are promptly solved!

 

Feel free to contact [email protected] directly if you have any questions regarding your order. I can also assist you if you PM me directly as I may not get to your post promptly, thank you.

 

Ken replied me and said he will check on it tomorrow, one more day to wait.

 

The speakers are quite tinny. The overall output is terrible compared to my previous lenovo Y500 (which had awesome speakers btw!). I meddled with the nahimic settings and was able to reduce the tinnyness by pushing the voice slider to the lowest, bass to +4 and treble to 0. But to answer your question, I don't think my speakers really crack.It just can't process low frequencies well due to which it sometimes sounds like a blown out sub woofer!

Also, question for you, can you try pinching the right side of the laptop, near the place where the HDMI port is located. Do you hear a 'click' sound?

 

Sorry guys...was out for a while. If you go to your Account page, then on the right side in the My Orders section is a link that says

Change quantities / cancel orders

That is where I did it.

Don't get me wrong, I think GenTechPC is probably a good vendor. I hear good things about them. Kevin has always been nice to deal with. I just felt a different level of support between that and HIDevolution. Yes, I paid more, but I think in my case service was more important for the extra cost. If you are more cost focused, then that may still be your best option. Also be aware, that switching my build still took about a month to get...so you need to be patient either way you go.

I should also note that my purchase was through a business, so downtime was more critical for me than a personal laptop. I will say too that Kevin was willing to walk me through any repairs if I wanted to do them myself. That speaks pretty good of them to be honest.

 

JRey, I am finally getting to a point to mess with the ThrottleStop settings. I can't seem to undervolt as low as you can. I am getting BSODs at 130.9 CPU. I am still tweaking but do I need to tweak the BIOS before I can get to that level?