*** The Official 2019 MSI GS65 Stealth with RTX GPUs Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

Dang, that’s far. With the bios mods, I can only undervolt to -38mv... you’re already way further than me.
Without the bios mods, you can undervolt further but the result in temp and performance will be similar between both methods.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Wait...am I reading your post correctly??? In your screenshots of throttlestop, you show the offsets for profile 2 and profile 4 are -155.3mv. https://static.wixstatic.com/media/...f04_916e4b688dbb4f2ab36c437a5e7ed1cb~mv2.webp

If I try to get close to that I fail. I can operate at -43.9 as you show in profile 1 (although I have yet to stress tests things).

Am I missing something here?

 

Oh, you’re talking about my other profiles.
My battery profile has a max CPU speed of 1GHz for 3 cores, .8GHz for all 6 cores. That’s what gets me that deeper undervolt.
Also, not all CPUs will undervolt the same. Just because I can hit that undervolt doesn’t mean everyone else can.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I ended up exchanging at best buy, and the old speakers were in fact faulty. I tested the floor model that they had and there was definitely something wrong with mine, the exchanged version has acceptable speakers.

I tried pinching around near the HDMI port and observed no distinct clicking sound. The chasis of the laptop is generally creaky when I pick it up and handle it, but it is still acceptable for lap-top use, and most of my use will be tabletop so this isn't a huge deal.

 

I am getting ready to tweak the BIOS settings as well but want to make sure I am following the correct process before I save any settings. The menus didn't follow the exact pattern laid out in the "Falkentyne guide" and I got nervous. Can someone verify that the below process is correct?

1. Enter BIOS and use key combo to unlock
2. Navigate to Core/IA VR domain screen pictured here
3. Alter settings in accordance with "Falkentyne guide"

• Change AC Loadline from default of 180 to 1
• Change DC Loadline from default of 180 to 1
• Change VR Current Limit from default of 512 to 800
• Set "TDC Enable" to "Disable" and set value to 0. (is this value the TDC Current Limit?)
• Save changes and exit

Everything else in Falkentyne guide seems to be related to unlocking the BIOS which is not necessary with the key combo correct?

I have uninstalled Dragon Center and plan to use Throttlestop to create custom profiles once the BIOS changes are made.

Thank you for your help.

 

Thanks. Looks like I am going to have to play with this a bit more. With the undervolting I did that matched your profile 1, my GPU seems to lock up on games. But at least your guide give me a good starting point.

What do you use to test your configuration changes? TS Bench? MSI Kombustor? Once I have the settings narrowed a bit I can test a bunch of apps, but looking for something that gives me a good litmus test on the configs.

 

I am potentially interested in following what you end up doing here. Could you post the steps when you complete them? Also, may I ask what kind of gains you are expecting to get by doing this BIOS mod?

 

I had that exact same problem

 

To test the CPU, I use TSBench (in throttlestop) at 1024 setting. I run it 5x back to back. If I get no errors, I remove more voltage. Once it gets an error, I go back to my previous voltage that passed.
For the GPU, I just run benchmarks in games. Shadow of the Tomb Raider will crash almost instantly if the overclock is too high.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Thanks for the reply man. From what I've been seeing, I really agree with you. For me though it's for personal use, but I currently live in Tokyo. The cheapest shipping is 150 usd one way and I really can't afford to receive a flawed unit and go through the whole refund or RMA process again.

 

So I have been fiddling with this and initially I started at -80mv and TSBench started complaining with errors. I backed it off to 70, and errors reduced, but still showed up. Now I am currently at -60.5 mv without any stability issues thus far and even have been trying out a little Assassins Creed....so far so good...Ultra high at 50-65 FPS.

However, I still peak at 90C or 91C with TSBench (ambient 21C). Slightly elevated laptop,it peaks at 89C. But while playing a game it got up to 92C (with Assassins Creed), but I haven't tweaked the GPU yet. It doesn't peak for long, and usually backs down to 83-87 range for the most part. It stays around 3891 MHz until the thermal hits and then drops to 3481 MHz.

Though I am not getting any stuttering during game play, I just cant seem to get the temps down. From what you said, tweaking the BIOS will help, but not by 6-8 degrees.



Ideas?

 

Are you running a custom fan curve? It seems like you’re peaking because the fan isn’t ramping up fast enough before stabilizing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

yes, I have it set at 0, 60, 70, 85, 90 and 100% on both GPU and CPU using Silent Option.

 

Have you repasted?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Yeah, did the Grizzly and Fuji LMs by HIDevolution. Now, can I say that it was done properly....no, but that is what they are supposed to be good at.

I bumped up the fan curve to 0, 60, 90, 100, 100 on the CPU and now I am peaking at 86 with a typical in the 79-81 range. Certainly better.

The problem is that if this is a paste issue, how can you prove it...this stuff is so fuzzy and too many variables to know true cause...Could even be the chip or the heatsinks or whatever.

 

What mods did you do? Did you do all of the Hackness 8750h mods? Bios mods? Etc?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

No. Stayed away from the BIOS mods.

Here is something interesting....for grins...I disabled Turbo and (as expected) my temps are down. With Assasins Creed, I peaked at 71C. But the odd part is, my frame rate is pretty close to the same. I think it hovers around 58-60 with occasional dips to 51 and 65 or so....

I know some games are more GPU intensive than CPU, but dropping from 3800 MHz to 2100 MHz, I would have expected more of an FPS hit. If this works out for other games in my library, maybe this is the way to go. It also allows me to quiet the fans down even more.

Grim Dawn topped out at 67C but stayed at 60+ FPS

I will try out Witcher, For Honor and a few more later.

 

Posted this in the other thread a while ago, but didn't get a response;

Is editing the IMON SLOPE, etc. in the BIOS, therefore drawing more power than the laptop/PSU/adapter is aware of, electrically safe in the short or long term? I do a lot of intense video editing, so I've been interested in editing the IMON SLOPE on a 2019 GS65 with 2080MQ to have "unlimited" TDP but I'm scared to overload/overwork something irreversibly...

@ JRey any idea?

 

On my MSI 65 RTX 2060 I got -145 mv undervolt - no BSOD or anytinng after using it mltiple days including benchmarks and heavy gaming at ultra graphics in Anthem, Metro Exodus, Far Cry 5 so you can probably get it even lower (or may not as it was mentioned earlier).

I also still face significant temperatures in Anthem after 2-3 hours of gameplay - some cores jump to 94-93C, but most are above 90 - not obesrved in any other game though where ma temps are about 85-87C

I do not have any repaste or customer fan curve (planing to do the latter), my CPU is undercloked to 3.5 MHz for 6 cores and 3.9 for 2 cores.

Also, reporting on adding another RAM stick to make the RAM dual channel (2x16GB) - I saw a MASSIVE performance increase:

1. Anthem - +10-15 average FPS at Ultra with no dips to 25-30 like before
2. FarCry 5 - from 50-70 to 70-80 or 100-110 depending if outdoors or indoors

 

Finally a GS65-8SX owner. The 2060 arrived today.

I was wondering if anyone switched out their 16GB RAM (KINGSTON) for another kit and interested in selling their OEM stick?

Let me know, currently in Australia.

Plan to go dual channel and eventually get myself a WD Blue 2TB.

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

I swapped out the factory installed SK Hynix 16GB for the HyperX Impact 32GB kit. Works well no issues so you should probably look for the same kit.Unfortunately not in Australia so can't help with the OEM stick.

 

@hackness @Falkentyne


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Yes its safe. Just don't do it on battery power.

 

I did the exact same thing. -145 undervolt and underclocked to 3.5GHz.
I also overclocked my 2060 with +100MHz on core and a custom FAM curve like @JRey did in his review.
In Anthem, I see mid 80s on CPU and 70s for GPU.

This is with repasted with thermal grizzly kryonaut

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

I think I am going to try something similar. I keep spiking up into 90C range, but I have not underclocked. Thanks for posting this, it is a good comparison between what you have vs @Svyatoi.

 

I'll try to overclock the GPU and do a customer fan curve - let's see if it will help with Temps and performance

 

Thanks for the response! Should I go into the BIOS and change the settings back every time I need to use the laptop on the go?

 

I don’t. But I also don’t run the COU at max speed. It only goes up to 1.4GHz on battery


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I have the 2070 Max-Q version. However I have a spare 180W power supply. Same voltage, but lower amperage. it's from the older GS65. Any issues using it? I know on my Mac, the biggest issue is simply that it won't charge if it's under full load on a lower wattage power supply.

 

Doesn't that laptop have 5 bios presets you can save?

 

So if I'm gonna be on battery, shut off the computer, change BIOS settings, reboot?

What are the risks of running it in one mode the whole time?

 

Laptop will just shut off.
I had this problem when using a TDP modded GTX 1070 with the 'base' extreme power limits matched for GTX 1080 levels (Extreme limit 1 changed from 16200 to 19200).
Saw the GTX 1070 trying to use 65W power by itself while on battery. When I disabled BD Prochot to stop the CPU from throttling to 800 mhz, the laptop just shut off (it saved everything to RAM apparently).

 

Soooo..... another question. I was considering flashing my GPU to the 90w version and looked at the specs, and mine are not matching yours.



1) My GPU ID is different. Will this effect my ability to flash or no? Seems like mine is the actual "Codename" listed on notebookcheck.

2) My TMU# is only at 184, while both of your pics show 245. At first I assumed something might be messed up with my card but the only detailed specs I could find were from techpowerup, which show 184 TMUs for the 2080mq https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/geforce-rtx-2080-max-q.c3363. This additionally leads to me having a significantly smaller Texture Fillrate than yours (201 vs 268). Any ideas what's going on here?

Thanks again!

I ordered from them and had no problems. Took a week for them to ship it I think. They responded promptly to any email I sent, which was quite a few as I wanted to change my order after placing it. And I had to send it back for a repaste and they responded super quick to that as well.

 

You’ll be fine. I was using an older version of GPU-Z
My GPu is a TU104
My TMU is also 184.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Not sure how interesting this is, but a quick follow-up to my ask a few pages back about a battery icon in the Windows 10 system tray showing as an "X" and reporting as removed in the MSI battery calibration tool...

I RMA'd it to MSI, which opened it up and emailed to say I had some damaged/missing resistors (see attached pic). The battery was working fine before I opened the system a second time to add a second stick of memory (the first was to install a second SSD drive). So I have to assume I damaged something during the install, fastidiously cautious though I thought I'd been.

Cost is just under $200 to repair, so not insane.

But the moral of the story: a fool and his money are soon parted!

 

Interesting you had to pay for the repair. MSI has a No Oops accidental damage policy where they repair a damaged unit once, for free, no questions asked.

http://www.hidevolution.com/msi-warranty



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Ok... and have you tried undervolting the GPU as well? I saw this guide:

You basically raise the clock speed curve in afterburner to the point where it runs higher clocks sooner than it otherwise would vs voltage being fed. Might take quite a bit of fiddling for stability but also might lower temps.... Also not sure how it would necessarily interact with the 90w bios. Also, there is no curve shown in afterburner, so I don't know if something is locking me out of messing with the curve or not.

 

Interesting, thanks for sharing that. My guess is that the definition - "Accidental damage is defined as damage to the merchandise caused by a drop, spill, or liquid damage" - puts me outside the covered zone. Since the damage incurred was presumably caused by that section of the board hitting or rubbing against something (but not a drop) as I was maneuvering it out and back in to install the memory, I think that still puts it on me.

 

Does anyone knows the real weight of the GS65 2060? From gentech YouTube video the 2080 is actually 2.09 kg and 2070 is 2.109 kg (from another video). Msi advertise all as 1.9 kg but it annoys me a bit they are actually heavier. I suspect the 2060 might be lighter than the others but not sure.

 

What's the mode you are talking about?

Make sure you don't try to run 3.9GHz 6 cores 100% on battery, you should setup a lower clock profile in ThrottleStop and have it set to load that profile when the AC cable is unplugged.

About the GPU, do the RTX cards not throttle itself when switched to battery mode?

 

There's a guide out there about changing the IMON SLOPE etc so that the TDP is effectively removed by tricking the system into thinking it's using less voltage than it actually is, therefore CPU can perform up to its thermal limits. I just don't want to damage anything electrically by doing so in any environment, that's my only concern.

 

I'm going to be doing this shortly... however, the guide you linked says this:

"2) Set CPU power and performance->CPU VR Settings->Core I/A Domain ->IA AC / DC loadline, = 1
**THIS SETTING DISABLES MSI AUTOMATIC OVERVOLTING WHEN THE CPU IS AT HEAVY LOAD**. When setting this to "1", you must **NOT** undervolt your processor anymore!"

But you undervolted directly in spite of that?

Also, one last question: is there going to be any issue with the extra current draw from both a TDP unlocked CPU *and* the 90w 2080 Max Q vbios mod? Can they both work in tandem, or will the 230W supply be suffocated?

 

Didn’t you have 1070mq one before, is there any performance improvement with your 2060 one? After finishing all tweaks it’ll be nice to see some synthetic or gaming benchmarks.

 

Um Graphic wise not much. I managed to OC my GTX 1070 to RTX 2060 levels.

I got 14000+ on both, however RTX 2060 is more consistent score.


Thermals are a lot better.

Overall I felt the chassis upgrade (sturdier build) and improved thermals was worth the upgrade.

I OCed my 1070 (210 core / 300 memory) and my RTX 2060 I managed 250/200. And score is very very similar. Only difference is RTX is more consistent with score in the 141XX, on the GTX I get 139XX - 14xxx.

What is funny, is Graphic score is higher on my OCed GTX, but FPS on combined test in FS is higher on RTX.

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

Hey guys, I just got my MSI GS 65 w RTX 2080 from HIDevolution with LM repasting. Does any of you know what kind of benchmark I can run to make sure the LM was worth it? ( @JRey maybe?) So far I rarely reached 90C on the CPU but I was able to go beyond that while playing BFV. Thanks!

 

AIDA64 is the benchmark that I feel stresses out the computer the most/generates the most heat.


If you run cool on AIDA64, then I think you are golden!

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

@xLima What benchmark in aida64 do you recommend me to run?

 

Hit the graph symbol and just run the stress test. I think the preset has 3 or 4 things ticked. The preset is fine.

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

Ran the test for 6min, I have CPU throttling



I just wonder if that's what's expected with LM, I thought I wouldn't reach those temps with LM.

 

I have the same thing as you (laptop wise). I am going to run this on my machine and see what I get. I have done no BIOS mods, just tweaked a bit here with ThrottleStop.

I have a call into HID tech support to see why my temps are hitting 92C after LM added. I will keep you posted on this as well.

Be back soon with my test results .