Offical Coffee Lake Thread/Upgrade Guide MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)

Probably MSI Bios bugs because you're using an "unsupported" CPU or some custom bios for it. Maybe the custom bios is bugged as it only supports gsync monitors? Is your monitor the original panel or is it an aftermarket panel?

You knew with cancer firmware that things were going to happen when you put in a CPU that the laptop wasn't designed to take, right, @Papusan ? Or more "custom" bios bugs.

Do you have a gsync option anywhere in the NVCP?

Can you open "NVinspector" or Nvidia profile inspector (whatever it's called) and see if there is a gsync option sitting around in there?

 

I don't have NVinspector, will download it and check it.

 

Yeah, probably the HWID of your GPU. 3DMark often makes this mistake. You can fix that using NVIDIA Profile Inspector.

 

I downloaded it, but what do I have to do to fix it?

 

just start nvprofileinspector instead nvinspector or click as the image below

 

Still I disabled that stinky G-SYNC in nvinspector but 3Dmark still an ass to me. Also how to disable the LOD issue is beyond my knowledge.

I used your provided BIOS settings, works like a charm so thank you

 

4,5Ghz 1501pts.

I got 1454 on 4.5Ghz why is this happening?

 

4.7GHz

 

Well apparently the BIOS update made the nvidia drivers wonky! A quick google search showed that a clean driver install is the solution, did it and problems gone.

Here is a 4.7GHz run with no OC on GPU yet.

 

How is your CPU temp that much? Have you delidded your cpu?

At 4.7GHz I'm getting around 82-83c with my 8700k.

 

It is delidded. It depends on ambient temps really. How cold is your room?

My room is like around 26c with A/C on.

 

I expect you have windows 10. And this nasty piece of poop OS can fire up applications, processes and services in the background in several ways and at unwanted times. Running at ~90C is neither preferable. 100% sure the cpu run at fixed clocks and don't drop in benchmarks? Maybe test out Windows "High Performance" power plan so the fixed clocks stay at max the whole time. Then you can be sure they didn't or can't drop.

 

Now that you mention it, it only shows "Balanced" and "Movie"....where did the high performance option go I have no Idea. When I click on the battery it shows a slider, I set it to best performance.

in 3D Mark FS CPU is around 85c actually, dunno maybe because of new thermal paste? I reckon it needs time to bond/activate well....IC Diamond is what I have.

 

The High Performance plan is still there, but you need to use the "create a power plan" option in the control panel. Select it, name it whatever you want, and you should be good to go.

 

Take a look into Windows Mobility Center.

 

Yeah, Windoze OS X is a cancerous piece of excrement OS. The only thing consistent about it is the fact that it is inconsistent, unreliable and an unstable product. It is totally obvious that it is designed by idiots for idiots, and hiding the high performance power plan is just one of countless examples of how utterly stupid the imbeciles at Micro$haft have become. We should all be ashamed that we have allowed it to live this long. It deserved to die when it was still in beta. It has only gotten worse and degraded with the passing of time

 

Micro$h4ft design their newest OS around own hardware trash! Of course High Performance power plan ain't in their interest.

2018 Surface Pro 6 series still suffers from steep CPU throttling

 

Yep found it right there HIDDEN as you said!
Made a smaller difference, I think I need to dial in the BCLK Bus a little as it is not a true 4,7. It is more like 4.68~GHz.
1527 points.

 

Ok good score, remember to put CB15 process in "RealTime"priority from TaskManager and you will go higer!

About BCLK, to stabilize at 100,00Mhz just go to ICC settings, set 10001 and "Change Permanently",
also change to 0% (from 5%) the clock gating spectrum,
reboot, at next start your bclk in bios will be again at 10000 (and the same in the OS) but this time will have the right value in the OS.

P.S.:

If you can, absolutely go (with right precautions) with liquid metal thermal compound as CLU or Conductonaut.

 

On it

 

Right on the money with real time priority. Now that's more like it, @aaronne thanks for the tip!

 

https://imgur.com/a/IXDk8iZ

My 9900K at just 4.3Ghz with a manually tuned voltage to get an idea of where we would be on the F5 with a 9900K. It would still blow the doors off the 8700K and just might be doable on the power/temps side with a good chip like this.

 

Well I'm not sure I want to upgrade to 9900K if I can't OC the hell out of it. Seems like a waste of money, in 8700K I can tap into it's extra potential from OCing it so it is a good return of investment, 9900K on the other hand, If I can't OCit in my laptop then I would only buy it for my new desktop rig with water cooling in it that can cool it with OCin the chip. That's a good return in investment.

Unless you have a boat load of money and not worried about any returns.

 

Low clocks ain't the best for gaming. And below stock clocks

 

LOL brother, I don't know many games that place the CPU under 100% AVX load. If all you're doing is gaming surely you can crank the clockspeed back up with XTU or TS in real time. If you need to run something heavier, like blender you can switch profiles and drop the clocks back down to keep thermals in check. I was simply trying to mimic a worst case scenario.

 

After doing a BIOS reset and clean install to fix a boot issue I was having, I decided to try Throttlestop as opposed to XTU to set voltages and frequencies. I had to do a little trial and error to get everything locked in, but so far I've been able to lower my system idle temps by about 7-10 degrees over where they were with XTU while still being able to get 4.4 GHz across all cores/threads under load.

 

Did you work out what settings allowed for the lower idle temps when using Throttlestop?

 

My best guess is not so much the settings in TS but XTU not properly applying the undervolt, even with a Powershell script dictating the program do so at startup.

 

strange, ok

 

Literally as I was reading your post, I got a BSOD with a WHEA uncorrectable error, so I'm guessing my undervolt was a bit too aggressive. It's weird because I tested a bunch yesterday and it was completely fine. Oh well, time to tweak a bit more.

 

Talon, that's pretty awesome! Did the 9900K require the exact same steps to upgrade as the other processors tested on this thread? Including the bits of tape on the connectors?

 

Had some misadventures over the weekend. I was playing some games and suddenly got victimized by the WHEA_Uncorrectable_Error BSOD. Long story short, it seems to have been caused by a combination of Speed Shift, Speed Step, ThrottleStop, and the undervolt I was running. Disabling Speed Step and enabling Speed Shift in BIOS and adjusting the undervolt in ThrottleStop seems to be working so far. The CPU boosts back up to 4.4 GHz on all cores with no more crashes so far running games or the 3DMark stress test. In fact, whatever changes I made seem to have boosted the latter from around 98.4-98.7% up to 99.1% on its most recent run.

 

Hello! Were did you find a motherboard at that price? I was almost buying one from eurocom but when they gave me the price and i saw your post i was like no ripping of me!
I have a Msi gt62vr 7re dominator with a on-board 7700k and i want to change motherboard so i can change cpu.

 

I found it on eBay through a Spanish seller. He said it was untested but seemed working, I bought it off him and the motherboard worked fine no bent pins burn marks anything. He probably didn’t have a machine to test it in.

In other words I got lucky I don’t think you will ever find it that cheap unless you are constantly checking eBay.

One thing that helped was typing in the model number of the motherboard like ms-16l13...

 

Hey there,

I have just stumbled across this thread that seems to offer a newer version of the modded bios
While I have been quietly following this thread, I would like to update to the modded bios.
However, it has been rather quiet regarding the modded bios.
Is the modded, updated version (MSI BIOS ACTUAL FINAL.zip) usable 24/7 or are there certain caveats that an interested user should keep in mind?

Thank you very much for the time and effort you put into this!

 

I'm not seeing any problems or BSOD since I modded the BIOS and upgraded CPU to an 8700K.

 

No problems at all with modded bios and the CPU. Everything runs flawlessly, no single unexpected BSOD since upgrade.

 

Hi,
I need to find the location of the BIOS chip which is marked by a 'red' dot, but my motherboard have two chips marked red..
One inside Cmos , and one inside Wi-Fi module..

Thanks
Regards Devid

Inviato dal mio SM-G920F utilizzando Tapatalk

 

That's probably a dual BIOS design.

 

It's not.
On the GT73VR, Prema said that the second 'red dot' chip is the TB3 chip and is *NOT* bus isolated! Which means it is *NOT* safe to read unless it is desoldered !
I think that chip is a 1 mbit chip or something (or 1024MB i forgot), while the main bios chip is around 8192 MB.

 

Can you get the text on both chips? If the sizes are not the same then we can target the biggest chip.
@Falkentyne thanks.

 

Hey guys, where can i get the latest version of the bios?

 

Check with both Eurocom and MSI tech support, be sure to mention the model #.

 

It seems the pics from the OP have expired. Can anyone post a pic of the pins to isolate on the cpu? Is it the same as the 9xxx series as posted in this thread?

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-eurocom-tornado-f5-ms-1t11-vortex-pc.827573/

 

Yes. It's basically the same thread and the pins are a consequence of using this CPU on this socket - i.e. not bios-specific

 

Flashing the Terrance Force BIOS directly to the chip with programmer fixed it but this time I had to lower the memory to 2666Mhz in order for both RAM sticks to work. Last time it worked automatically with both sticks at 3200Mhz.
Both times using 7700.

 

I am also running into no-POST situations when populating both slots (near the CPU, I can't be bothered to disassemble the device just to reach the slots on the other side of the mainboard).
My RAM is Micron 3200CL22 - which simply won't POST when auto-trained and both slots are populated.

My solution is to populate the top slot only, boot into BIOS and force RAM timings and frequency.
After having set the frequency to 2933 and timings to known good ones (auto / 0 will work just fine as well), my laptop will happily accept two dimms.
However, this makes experimenting with timings quite tricky - my laptop will happily reset its RAM timings when it can't boot, but will try to reach 3200 MHz on its own, which won't work.

I have since found this nice setting in the unlocked BIOS:
System Agent (SA) Configuration -> Memory Configuration -> Maximum Memory Frequency
When setting it to 2933 MHz (= my known max working frequency), I can happily experiment and each no-POST will lead to the device resetting the RAM-settings.
However, as it respects the maximum frequency, it will reach a stable state and be back up in about 1 minute - no manual BIOS reset or other stuff needed.

And as a nice trick, if your PCH is getting quite warm, feel free to check this out:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-owners-lounge.797128/page-1134#post-11082092

Maybe this is of some help

 

I uploaded these BIOS with 16 threads support, and BGA1440 adapted CPU support( ME Disabled edition).
I will rewrite some documents when I have more free time.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ZRLYpWUCwY9bsUpyEIVMrKQz7ID2JzEi?usp=sharing

You need MS-16L1 and MS-16L3. Other files is for Clevo devices, ignore them.

All based on latest official BIOS I've found.
BIOS only have menus about 4 cores and lose G-Sync/Optane RST are normal.
DRAM SPD Write Protection disabled by default.
Showing all hidden menus by default.
This time I do not use iasl to disassembly ACPI table, I edit binary to inject CPU 8+ logic manually without disassembly.
MSI SLIC 2.1 is added.
Model edited to GT62VR 7RE.

ME disabled edition support BGA1440 adapted CPU, but these CPU have bad memory quality.
Do not distrust BIOS when you using these things, all problems are related to adaptor hardware.
And ME disabled edtiion support 128GB DRAM when using 4x32GB, which may showing a Pci Out of Resources error, just use ESC Key to skip that. I have no method to fix that now.

 

TL;DR: are there ways to help with CPU temperature or is there a way to make sure that a heatsink is working correctly?


Hey there,

I have recently upgraded my 6700K to a 9700F and am wondering about temperatures.
My 6700K did get rather hot when mildly overclocked, reaching mid 90s in stress tests and benchmarks if pushed to 4.3 GHz.
It did however not run stable when reducing voltage (going below 1.25V was asking for trouble, even at 4.2 GHz), leading me to believe that I had simply gotten a bad draw in the lottery.
However, my 9700F is running rather warm as well and does not like going below 1.19V (OCCT with AVX2 will show errors when running on 3 threads at 4.4GHz).

I have experimented with Loadline AC/DC of 10, IA IMON Offset of -10 and a static voltage of 1.2V, which is stable so far.
However, I am easily hitting 90s under load, even in this below-stock setting:


I am aware of the bottom cover mod (basically holes below CPU and GPU) as well as running the device on a cooling pad.
My device is sitting on top of a 20cm fan ( Noctua NF-A20 5V) which provides some additional airflow, but the laptop does not have the CPU hole mod.
My room temperature is around 28°C (no A/C), and still my CPU will easily reach thermal throttling temperatures:


The "advanced" OCCT settings I use are as follows:


Going through the thread, I did find some users mentioning temperatures, e.g.:

However, those load temperatures seem unreachable for my device.
My assumption is therefore that I am either missing out on a miracle setting (which I am doubtful of, considering the vast gap) or that my heatsink is somewhat defective.

At the moment, I am using Thermal Grizzly Carbonaut (thermal pad) as TIM to get around pumpout and dryout.
Previous attempts with ICD7 and Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut (both on 6700K) as well as Cooler Master MasterGel Maker Nano (on the 9700F) did result in similar temperatures.
The heatsink is making contact with the CPU via a copper shim, which came with the device.
I did initially try running the device without it (i.e. CPU - Carbonaut - heatsink) but the stock heatsink's design does not allow for sufficient pressure to make this setup work.
Consequently, I did add the shim again (i.e. CPU - Carbonaut - shim - Carbonaut - heatsink), which did improve temperature a lot.
Nonetheless, I feel that my temperature is way too high for the amount of power the CPU is allowed to draw (65W + IA IMON Offset of 10).
For reference, I did limit PL1 and PL2 to 65W as well as PL4 to 70W, to make sure that there are no random spikes in power consumption that could cause this temperature.

Does anyone have any idea what I should look at to improve those temperatures?

To round of this post, I have attached a picture of my (ghetto) setup:

More specifically:
- copper heatsinks on top of VRMs (held in place by sufficiently sized thermal pads)
- GPU fan modded to a different brand (held in place by one sufficiently sized thermal pad)
- GPU heatsink is pressed down by 4 screws and a big copper plate
- CPU heatsink is pressed down by 4 screws and small copper shims (to make sure that the pressure is not the reason for my problems)
My idle temperature (see OCCT min values) is ca. 40°C which sounds about right to me.

In case of the CPU heatsink's screws, I did tighten them while running OCCT with a stable AVX load and monitoring avg. temperature over one minute via HWInfo.
This did show immediate impact of tightening loosening screws, but I did reach a plateau where tightening them further did not lower temperatures anymore.

Thank you very much for your insights and ideas!


A small addition, I just did some Cinebench R15 runs and am basically immediately power-limited.
The 9700F does not allow setting a higher PL2, so my only option is to work around its PL2 via the IMON Offset.
My best run so far is this one, with an IMON Offset of -30 and the device running at around 3.8 GHz during the Cinebench run:

While the temperatures are not as bad as during the (obviously worst-case) OCCT AVX2 Extreme test, they are still hitting 80°C.

Edit: as it turns out, I have massively underestimated my room temperature as it is around 28°C during the day, not 21°C as previously stated.

 

See if you can purchase an custom copper IHS for 9th gen with correct thickness instead for use of the copper shim for the Cpu. Either from Rockit cool or BartXStore.

The copper shim works as a sandwich. Several layers Paste/liquid metal is bad for heat transfer from the die.

Use Liquid metal both on die and between IHS and heatsink is needed. Don't forget apply LM also on the inside of the IHS and on the heatsink.