*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

Yeah battery and charger were connected.

I probably did have a few small things running in the background, didn't realise that would affect the graphics score so much though!

I'll try again tonight with all applications closed.

Are you guys using Silent Option for controlling the fans? When I had it on auto it really seemed like the fans weren't doing much at all, and that's when I hit 96c on Firestrike which is pretty worrying to me.

Do you guys have a custom fan curve setup? Any pointers on what I should be doing with the fan speeds on silent option?

I had much better temps with the max fans running but would be nice to have something in between!

 

Absolutely..

 

I actually just use the auto mode built into the EC bios from stock.. I didn't like Silent Option.. they let you set an imaginary temperature to a fan speed.. it's one of the worst programs i've used to be honest. Have no idea what MSI was thinking to set a colored bar to a fan speed? I uninstalled it.. You're better off using stock auto fans because they are always running at a low rpm so temps don't shoot up too fast on you.. I find auto to actually provide the perfect fan curve.. And if you need more cooling, just hit the hardware fan button.

 

Yeah I was also thinking it was pretty terrible but thought it might just be me. Was really surprised when I couldn't find any actual temps that correlate to the fan speed, just a colour gradient to go off of!?

Think i'm gonna try undevolting tonight, never done this before.
Seen a few people saying -150mv on here seems stable? Should cache be the same undervolt as the core?

 

I would start with -100 on core and cache then work your way up by -10mv or -20mv.. I would expect you to be stable around -150.. I know some people can run -165 on both. I like to run both core and cache same undervolts but there's no reason why you can't... Sometimes the cache is weaker and can't undervolt as much.. So put priority on Core first then work on your cache.. You'll get most temperature drop from undervolting core over cache.. But you'll still gain a lot of improvement from undervolting Cache. Don't bother trying to undervolt anything else like system agent/digital/analog those are your memory/ram voltages. Just focus on Core/Cache and have fun with it.. Start low and work your way up using either Prime95/OCCT/wPrime/Realbench or XTU (meh) as your stress tests.. When you think you're stable, run OCCT for like an hour to make sure you're really stable. Sometimes you can bench for an hour and right as the test comes to an end you'll lock up because of the voltage swinging from high to low. So another alternative to undervolting is just setting a static voltage but expect slightly warmer idle temps and more wattage draw at idle. I still prefer adaptive undervolting on a laptop to keep your battery life uneffected.

 

Thanks for the advice, should hopefully have time to try this out tonight.

On a side note, I tried running OCCT last night with everything on stock, even with max fans the test would shut down after about a minute due to temps going above 85.

 

Do you have Shadowplay on?

I agree... omitting the numerical temperature values in Silent Option is an absolutely bizarre design choice. I had to test and check to see what temperatures correlated with the positions on the color gradient, which was incredibly annoying. However, I still use it only because I prefer my fans to ramp up faster than Auto will allow.

 

OCCT shuts itself down at 85c? Probably should just disable that function in OCCT.. I let my system run up to high 90s sometimes (with prime95).. The 6700K will pull over 120watts during Prime95 everything stock.. And to be honest, the cooling system of the F5 is really only efficient up to 85 watts... So with a decent undervolt you can run 4ghz at 85~ watts just fine and keep temps in check.. Under non AVX loads, I never really get past low 80s with auto fans. But i'm also de-lidded with CLU lol.. It's possible I can do a better repaste job and improve my temps though.

 

Hm, I was getting popups saying "Press something to share your game play." during the Firestrike test. Does that mean it's on?

Only other thing I thought of was that I don't have the Windows power plan set to high performance yet I don't think, would that make a difference?

 

Apparently yeah. I'll have a look, must be somewhere you can bump up the max temps.

Cool, hoping for a significant difference with the undervolt. Then i'll consider a repaste depending on what temps are like after that (i'm guessing it will be needed).

 

76c? Remember to drink plent of water

 

Oops 76F

 

Something tonite with undervolting using Intel XTU.

Usually undervolts and overclock a willbe set into the BIOS and stay there even after reboots as long as the system is stable. However something I've noticed is hat after reboot or sleep/hibernate the undervolts will still show in XTU but won't actually be active any longer.

It's annoying but every sinngle time I reboot I usually open XTU and click the voltage up or down one tick and then back to my desire value. This will reset the undervolt and you will get a very large drop in temps.

I overlay my voltage in my on screen display with temps and clocks. When undervolted im running around 1.1v+-.

I'm not sure yet what is causing this issue. My guess is Dragon Gaming Center may be to blame. There is an updated version of XTU recently and I'll check if it still has the same behavior.

Just bought I'd share that bit of info for new owners because unless you're looking for it you won't notice it and it will lead to significantly higher temps

 

@Talon does your 1070 have the green wire?

 

Why not just set the undervolt in BIOS? XTU is a convenient program to fiddle with settings, but I would really hate to have to launch it everyday on startup.

 

Yes. Why?

 

I never unlocked my BIOS.

 

There was a rumour* that the green wire was only on the test version of the 1070, and it was not needed really.

*Nothing to do with me.

 

Yes.

 

Care to expand on that?

 

Hmm, you get the same behavior with Throttlestop?

Eurocom teased that they would be releasing an unlocked BIOS for this notebook around Christmas, so that might be another solution.

What is this "green wire" thing? Like a wire soldered to the PCB?

 

How? I was simply saying yes? Lol Would you? Maybe share your insight with us?

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/msi-1070-in-alienware-17-r1-ranger-success.797893/

https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=...id=AFDF108874C06917!3573&cid=AFDF108874C06917

 

Didn't see any wire hanging off the 1070 card in the pictures.. Curious to know what you're talking about lol.

 

I thought @MiSJAH was referring to this:





But then, the links he provided did not have this green wire... so I'm confused

 

I didn't see any reference to this card or a green wired card in the upgrade post? I'm confused as to why it matters?

 

Qualification samples have the wire.. it's probably a jumper wire that ties directly into the BIOS for on the fly vBios changes or something during testing.

 

Just keep it at 4.0 and the .150 undervolt. I run Bionc at 100% at 3.7 all day and I am loving the 35% increase in points I am getting over the 4700qm.

Why not get the normal i7 6700, they are the same price and it goes upto 3.7.

Does XTU have the cache undervolt. I am only using XTU and would that drop it a few more degrees.

 

I don't think it shows cache undervolt seperately.. I heard it may just undervolt both at the same time but i'm not sure.. I just use ThrottleStop.. it's better on all fronts imo.

 

Are these ok memory sticks, i dont have any experience with DDR4 memory.

 

double post

 

The green wire connecting those 2 pins is an EC bypass cable. It stops the vBIOS from checking the notebook's EC firmware for power limitation (I think) and letting it POST.
Just my guess. Correct me if I'm wrong @Eurocom Support

 

Just got my system setup from yesterday. I hate Windows 10. There are compatibility errors on everything. Gonna go back to Win 7. Stock paste i was idling sub 30C though now it seems to hover around high 30's.

 

I hated windows 10 for awhile but its slowly growing on me, I still have a business laptop that will be kept on 7 for a long time.

And those temperatures seem about normal. What processor did you end up on getting?

 

Hmm. Loaded up WoW and it's dipping to 30fps. Any particular settings I should know about?

 

I have the 6700K.

 

WoW runs at the full 60 fps pretty much max settings.. there's some crazy rendering settings in WoW that will definitely put a hurt on the 1070 still.. So don't be surprised there.

 

Thank Diversion. I change a few settings in the nVidia control panel. Seems to have done it. The power management option wasn't set for max performance.

 

Max Performance in power management literally doesn't do anything compared to Balanced mode Only change is minimum cpu is set also to 100%.. Which means your CPU will never idle down and will maintain 4ghz all the time. There's no advantages to doing this or using high performance but it also doesn't hurt anything either other than draw more power from your wall and a higher number on your electric bill ;P

 

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/15966471

Graphics score is looking a bit better now, turned shadow play off and disabled all background apps. Still thinking it should maybe be slightly higher though? Was hitting mid 70c's on CPU and mid 60c's GPU, both average around 50c.

Gonna try an undervolt now.

 

So a -100mv undervolt has reduced my max temps on Firestrike by 8c, pretty good start I think!

 

Hey guys,

received my unit today! (still need to update my sig).

Just some quick questions if I may

- One of the first things I tried was undervolting the 6700k using Throttlestop but couldn't seem to find any voltage option under frequencies and multiplier, is there a box to check to gain access to the option? Intel XTU does allow me to adjust voltage offset etc. So I guess I'm doing something wrong with TS.

- About undervolting, I know all CPUs are different, but what would be a safe offset to start working with?

- Also, I couldn't find any overclocking option in the bios which is a bit weird when you have a K cpu inside

- Is there anything from the standard GT62VR worth installing on this machine? For now, the machinefrom Cyberpowerpc came with Silent option (fans), System Control Manager (wifi, webcam, bluetooth etc.) and a keyboard led manager. Is there something to manage audio maybe?

That's it for now

 

Is there a program I need to install to have the three buttons located by the power button to work? The max fan button works, but the other two do not. I can get the keyboard to light up by using the function key however, but those two keys don't work. Thanks!

 

1. Not sure about TS, I used XTU...
2. I would set all multipliers to 4.0 GHz and start at -100 mW. @Diversion and I are fans of RealBench to test for stability.
   
3. The BIOS is not unlocked yet. Eurocom said they are working on an unlocked BIOS for a Christmas update, but I'm not sure if it will work on the CyberPowerpc version (although, in theory it should). If you don't want to wait, talk to Svet over at the MSI forums. He should be able to unlock the BIOS for a small fee.
   
4. Grab Sound Blaster Cinema 3

 

Try .150 undervolt, that is around the average most people are getting.

i dont use throttle stop that much so I dont have that much experience with it. There is a throttlestop guide on the forums.

Right now the Bios is not unlocked, it doesnt have those figures yet. But Eurocom is working on a unlocked Bios, it should be released around Christmas so stay tuned.

The best undervolt seems to be around .150-.160v

This MSI barebones also has a silent mode or fan control. Screen shot on the next post.

http://www.eurocom.com/ec/drivers(384)ec

I think you need the " Hotkey" drivers for that.

 

I installed the system control manager which lets me turn off the screen, but only with the application. The button (and keyboard light button) still don't work.

 

You are talking about the 3 buttons above the keyboard correct.

I would install all of the drivers from here. I dont know which one it is, I would think it would be "hotkey" but maybe not.
http://www.eurocom.com/ec/drivers(384)ec

 

Yup, those three buttons are what I'm talking about. I installed KLM, which fixes the keyboard light button. So now it's just the middle button that turns off the monitor that doesn't work. I've installed everything as well.

 

Ran OCCT for an hour with -150mv core and -130mv cache, seems to be stable.

CPU temp average was 67c, max 75c.

This was with max fans. Gonna try with just the auto fans and see what happens as well. Pretty happy so far!

Before the undervolt I was going into the 90c's when running OCCT just for a minute, even with max fans. So this has made a huge difference.