*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

I typically connect by Ethernet, but when I did use wifi, the Realtek card seemed functional enough. What was the issue with your card?

 

Tag me in if You or others will start up bench from your socket beasts

 

Funny, I did the same. I got the Realtek wifi, bought a intel 8260 on ebay for $15. My laptop just came a few hours ago but non of the parts I ordered have come yet.

 

I use my laptop on the road and use WIFI. The range was somewhat poor, and the connection speeds when at home are awful and slow. Yes it works and is fully usable even for gaming but it's definitely slow and hinders speed.

It's not a new card as suggested below. It's a b/g/n wifi card. My complaint is that it would appear they saw most people were opting to save money and either use what they have or upgrade later. Now they're charging the same for a far inferior wifi card.

 

Congrats on getting it. Let us know what you think.

What configure did you go with?

 

i7 6700, 1070, no memory, no hd, no os, 230w psu.

The only parts I am still waiting on are the intel 8260 wifi card and the msata to m.2 converter from china. i need that converter more than the wifi. I am going to install the OS on that.

 

Geez, hope you're not waiting to long.. those China shipments are hard to track and can take up to a month :/ I'd help you out if I could and let you use my spare SSD and memory .. Got plenty of parts laying around lol.

 

Just now got around to it.. but connected to my 4K monitor (correction TV) and confirmed it is indeed HDMI 1.4 (not HDMI 2.0) Keep reading below :/ . For all the doubters:

 

How about chroma subsampling? Have you tried 4:4:4 or RGB Full?

 

It's not a monitor, it's a tv.. my tv doesn't do 4:4:4 at 4K. But since it's HDMI 2.0.. of course it would work. There's no way i'd be able to drive 4K at 60hz otherwise.. And adding 4:4:4 wouldn't still be something that needs confirmation since that's not a factor of bandwidth.

 

Actually you can do 4K at 60hz with 4:2:0 (my 1.4 HDMI does that on my GT80). And I have to use a converter from displayport to HDMI 2.0 to drive RGB full/ 4:4:4

EDIT: And I game on a TV too but anyways HDMI 1.4 can do 4K at 60hz with chroma subsampling 4:2:0 (although there is a noticeable loss in image quality just to keep it working).

 

I thought your question was will it do 4:4:4 at 4K and 60hz.. I'm saying that chroma vs full chroma has zero bearing on bandwidth requirements.. Therefore, you can run any subsampling or full chroma.. So yes, it would work.. It's not something anybody needs to test. Chroma subsampling is dependant on what your display supports, not a requirement of bandwidth.

Let me expound.. I didn't factor in if you're using a 10bit panel, HDMI 2.0 will not do full chroma..


But there probably aren't many 10bit 4K PC monitors out there.. There are plenty of available 10bit 4K TVs though.. and that's okay because most people aren't trying to run HDR + Full Chroma .. Especially it wouldn't be noticeable at certain distances.

 

Actually chroma vs full chroma does impact bandwidth. You can do 4K at 60hz over HDMI 1.4 if you use 4:2:0 precisely because of the reduced bandwidth, Otherwise would only do 4k@30. HDMI 2.0 can do both, but likewise it is also depending on your TV/Monitor.

This was more of a comment regarding a "confirmation" if HDMI is 1.4 or 2.0 etc, not if your TV is capable of.

nvidia enabled this to be able to use 4K displays with older HDMIs.

http://www.tomshardware.com/news/nvidia-kepler-4k-hdmi-1.4,27117.html

 

Gotcha I wasn't aware Nvidia enabled 4:2:0 4K.. Well then I don't think I have a true way to test 4K full chroma since my TV is only 8bit 4:2:2 at 60hz.

I guess someone needs a true 4K monitor to test at this point.. My results are nullified with that info now :/

Edit: Is there no tools that can detect what HDMI version a system has?

 

I think, if you can do 4:2:2 you should be HDMI 2.0 because HDMI 1.4 can't do more than 4:2:0 which looks worse. I would love to have a tool that helps us see which HDMI version we have.

 

Well how do I know if i'm running 4:2:0 or 4:2:2 ? I don't follow the pattern the nvidia control panel shows.. I failed to check if it said RGB or YcBc, etc..

 

I remember there being an image test, a JPG or something that had color variations. Depending if you can read the text as it went on, it meant you had 4:2:0, 4:2:2 or 4:4:4.

http://www.geeks3d.com/20141203/how...-chroma-subsampling-used-with-your-4k-uhd-tv/

 

Duh forgot about those old images.. i'll try the patterns and see what turns out in a bit. Report back soon.

 

Either my TV is limited to 4:2:0 or this is HDMI 1.4 unfortuntely.. My TV is the Vizio M Series 50" 2015 model.. Rtings.com claims it can do 4:2:2 but I couldn't get it to work :/

Couldn't change this setting.. And the chroma test image looked bad :/

I guess we don't have HDMI 2.0 afterall. Sad day. Why would they do that to this system?

 

Damm, it might be true it is only 1.4. To be honest, all their current laptops are 1.4 except very select few. Hell, I think only the GS63 is explicitly detailed as 2.0 on the spec page.

Worst comes to worst, the Club3D minidp to HDMI 2.0 active adapter works great and I can fully use 4:4:4 or RGB full with my 4K tv at 60hz.

 

PSA: Can someone connect a 4K MONITOR (not tv) and test the following image:
http://cdn.avsforum.com/b/b4/b4a44044_vbattach208609.png

Make sure you're at 60hz and 4K native resolution and see if you can read the bottom 4 lines of text in the image provided above.

 

Maybe they wanted to keeps costs for the lowest end low, while keeping the good components


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That was my next question, so the displayPort adapter to HDMI would provide 2.0 support on these units you think?

 

And you're right, I notice MSI indicates 4K @ 60hz but nothing about HDMI 2.0.. but on the specs page for the GS series, they actually say HDMI 2.0.. I guess that is what's happening then... Not sure why they treat their GS series as a more premium device :/

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0194F1MPI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That one specifically was the only one that actually worked for me. I had been trying for over 2 years to get a working mini displayport to HDMI 2.0 and only this year was the Club3D released and actually work.

Minidisplay port 1.2 does have the necessary bandwidth and if it works on my GT80, it should work on your Tornado too.

 

Who makes the motherboard for the eurocom model? Msi or another company because that could explain the 1.4 hdmi.


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Well that's a very fair cost to get true HDMI 2.0 on these laptops then.. not a big deal in the end. I was worried when HMD VR headsets were going to REQUIRE HDMI 2.0 and not being able to use one on my laptop.. but hopefully that adapter fixes that problem.

 

I seriously doubt it has anything to do with premium. They probably have manufacturing resources to use, and thus end up using older hardware. It sucks, but at least there is a working fix. I was rather surprised too, when I found out the GS does support HDMI 2.0. Even more so because a lot of new machines do ship with 4K displays, but they can't output 4K the same.

Anyways, the dongle I posted is what you need and it is a great fix for the situation

 

MSI makes the motherboard for the F5.

 

Yeah, I think they kept 1.4 because that's what the current VR heatsets need. I use my vive directly to the HDMI 1.4

 

I can do some testing this weekend/next week if needed. I just picked up a Samsung 6290 (supports 4K @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4). My laptop should be here by the end of the week.

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I connected my Oculus DK2 to the HDMI port on here but I don't think the DK2 needs HDMI 2.0..

 

I would do a preemptive action and get the dongle, that way you can enjoy your 4K in case the laptop is indeed 1.4

 

You can finally put the mystery to rest for us.. I'm hoping you get HDMI 2.0 results.. sigh.

 

Reading the reviews people are saying the converter adds more latency :/ Hopefully nothing major though. What are your thoughts?

 

I have 0 noticeably latency. Actually noticed LESS input lag going full native at RGB full, than upscaling 1080p or previous 4:2:0 4K. I have gamed consistently on my TV using this dongle without any major issues.

But maybe each TV will behave differently. The idea though, like always, is to disable as much processing on the TV as possible, and use as native as possible settings.

 

Next thing is getting someone to test if it really has TB 3.0.. lol.

 

So I got my friend to connect his GT62VR (the system that the Eurocom F5 is modeled after) and he gets true 444 on his 4K monitor via HDMI. So maybe it's my TVs? Although we can't directly compare systems since they are much different motherboards.. but MSI only states 4k @ 60hz on the specs for his machine.. nothing about HDMI 2.0. But he's got true 2.0 444 at 60hz so we might still have a chance here..

 

oh dont worry, thank you very much. I have the memory in hand already. Installed that, and I installed a normal 2.5 SSD in it for time in waiting. I thought those msata converter from going to be shipped from the US not overseas. I ordered it from Amazon.

It is a very tight fit like you said but more so than I thought for the msata to m.2 converter. I might have to sell both msata and get 2 m.2. And a 15mm HD will not fit in the 2.5 inch slot. I will stick a 2tb HD there and get 2 500gb m.2 for the other 2 slots.

 

So you got the system up and running now? What do you think so far..

 

I finally got windows 10 up and running about 30 minutes, first time ever using win 10 OS. Installing some drivers now and maybe Steam in an hour to play some games on it.

I wont be able to fully appreciate it until those converters come then I get to install everything again.

I am really loving it, the screen size vs the current 17 inch laptop is not much of a difference. The big difference that I can really tell is the difference in weight. I am going from 10lb to 6.5lb and smaller power brick.

Does yours have the Eurocom sign on the back of the lid, my doesn't. Only on the bottom inside near the speakers.

 

The track pad has real buttons, love that. But the 3 USB ports on all on the right side and non on the left, hate that. But at least they are pretty far spaced out so no biggie.

My first new laptop in 9 years. In all of that time I have bought nothing but used not abused.

 

Don't forget you can use the USB-C on the back with a Type-A converter.. Nice to hook up normal type-A stuff to the rear.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matter...s=usb+c+to+type+a&refinements=p_85:2470955011

 

Just picked up this beast from Fedex and installed by RAM and M.2 SSD. Got windows installed and some of more frequent programs. Went with the i7-6700 and 1070. What are you folks using to undervolt (XTU?) and adjust fan speed?

 

Yay our owner base is getting large!

I recommend ThrottleStop over XTU.. Easier and better fine tuning imo.. Great monitoring as well.

 

Is it me or does the screen looks kinda dim vs the screen of a 120hz on a Clevo p370sm3.

 

I find my screen to be blinding at max brightness.. I think Notebookcheck rated this screen to be around 300nits.. I haven't seen a 120hz screen yet used on the Clevo/MSIs/AW yet. But normally TN panels are able to transmit more light easier at the cost of worse viewing angles.

 

Maybe I'm just overly sensitive to light, but to me, the screen on this notebook is brighter than the sun. I'm running at 10% brightness, even 20% is too bright for me

 

The screen is one of the brighter IPS panels available. It's too bright at night.

 

I managed to install Windows 10 on to my system. I just hope the Windows 7 drivers will come, but now that I think of it I'll pretty much switch between both depending on which games I'll play on it if I can get Windows 7 installed to the side. It runs pretty well and the fan is pretty great with a little bit of noise added along with an HDD. Only thing is that now I have to boot in Legacy mode or I'll get an error telling me that I'm missing a crucial file for the OS. The load times are pretty slow for me compared to my 32-bit system running Windows 10 with an i3, 4gb of ram, and an HDD. I'll probably check to see if I have fast boot enabled for my start-up.

I'm currently downloading games onto it for now to test them and see if I'll be able to play them on Windows 10. The Killer Wireless card is pretty good so far, but a few download got cancelled so I had to install my games on Steam or on a downloader that'll resume upon regaining connection. I'll probably have to revert the drivers to get it back to the way it was.

I tested my D-load speeds on it and it was 200% better than my 32-bit system on Windows 10. After I got the drivers from the CD onto my USB to install it, then I saw a 33% decrease in my internet performance. I may revert the drivers for Killer if it gets unbearable. I'll need to find the time to test out the system's internet while playing games, but Youtube for me is good as I can stream 1080p 60fps flawlessly while on my Tornado F5, but it struggles to do that on my 32-bit system due to reaching the data cap for AT&T(5Mbps download on 32-bit with Qualcomn, 10-15 on Tornado F5 with Killer.)