Ideapad Y510P

Because power surges are unpredictable in where the damage will land. They don't always affect the closest point-of-entry to a computer.

I absolutely still believe the power adapter is faulty. The fact that the computer runs fine without the SLI card isn't a surefire indicator that it's the SLI ultrabay card that is the problem. More likely, the presence of an SLI Ultrabay card probably caused an increase in power output from your power adapter (since a 2nd GPU is a pretty big power draw). And your power adapter probably was unable to handle the additional power load without causing some kind of component failure. You probably haven't noticed it since that time, because you haven't run your system on a power load that demanded that much power.

However, don't be lulled by a false sense of security that all-is-well as long as ytou don't run in SLI. If a power adapter failed when it was working within its intended design spec, then it's pretty likely that it will continue to fail again at some point in the future. Ultimately, the decision on what to do is yours. But my suggestion is to replace that power adapter ASAP. It isn't worth risking a $800 computer because you odn't want to buy a $50 replacement part.

 

i understand, you may be right .
the y510p models that come with 2 gpu's (like mine ) have 170W adapters , those that come with dvd in ultrabay slot have 120 W adapters so, yes , it seems that the 2nd GPU needs more power, it's possible that the adapter could not provide what was needed .
The problem is that type of 170w adapter is more than 100 usd . I live in Europe and i can't find any ultrabay nvidia GT750m here, i have to buy it from USA and it will cost me around 250 usd, plus the 450 usd that i already payed for the replacement of the motherboard and another 100 usd for an adapter ... i could have bought another Y510 , a second hand one .
i think i'll leave it as it is, without the extra gpu , the adapter will manage ( like it had so far ) , i hope it only fails on high loads, without the extra gpu - no more than 120W is needed.
It's better to save for a gaming desktop, these notebooks are a pain , rare and expensive components , almost no upgrade possibilities and the quality is not exactly the best, thank you for pointing me into the right direction with the cause of the problem- buying a 2nd GPU only to watch it burn again would have been very painful .

 

I have a Y510p with one 755m, some days ago I see that on lenovo it is a new vga driver, I installed but Photoshop or games can't detect and used, I did a clean install, I put energy management on high performance, I set in nvidia control panel to use nvidia card, but no luck, also it look like it is correct installed(no problems in device manager, I use win 7 64b sp1), I tried the last version from nvidia.com, same thing, but if I install the version 327.62 from lenovo it work ok, but version 332.10 from lenovo or any version from nvidia.com , don't work, the games/Photoshop not see the nvidia card, so, what I do wrong?

 

I don't really know what you are saying. I have standard drivers from Nvidia with this laptop. They are Version 353.06
Why are you not using those? Photoshop etc. works fine with these. Get them from the Nvidia site. If you are having problems, get the Nvidia Removal Tool and boot up the laptop in Safe-Mode and remove all of the drivers and then install the latest from Nvidia. Not from the Lenovo site. Those are old drivers.

My laptop crashes whilst playing some games though but I think that is because my temps are too high because this laptop is pretty garbage, or I got a lemon.

 

Guys I'd really appreciate if every single person would tell me what their GPU temps are whilst gaming on their Y510P laptops.

Please make a quick post to this thread:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/questions-about-temps-for-all-lenovo-y510p-users.777600/

I want to find out why on earth my games stop responding momentarily when a GPU hits 90°C. I also find it weird that many people are complaining about their Ultrabay card getting to 97°C+. Mine won't go over 85°C. However my temps are tons higher than most people who seem to be reporting that they can game at a steady 80°C without their games dying on them. Please help a brother out and give me a quick rundown of your temps and if you use a cooler etc. to that thread I just linked above.

 

Do those crashes happen when gpu it's overclocked because I have crashes on sli but only while overclocked.

 

I get those black screen/stopped responding for a few seconds, issues whether the card is overclocked or not. I only just tried overclocking it today and I only did it to see if it would stop the problem.

What are your core and memory clock speeds on both cards that you run where it doesn't ever crash?

You didn't look so hard?

Removal Tool

 

I say that only with 327.62 drivers from lenovo work ok, driver 332.10 from lenovo and 353.06 from nvidia.com not work ok.
Where can I find "Nvidia Removal Tool"(google doesn't help me)?

 

Look up CCCleaner. It's a utility that can do clean removals of video card drivers.

Be sure to install CCCleaner, and then boot into safe mode to run it and do the uninstallation of nvidia drivers. If you don't follow the instructions and just run CCCleaner in regular Windows mode, it will not work.

Once that is done, reboot into normal Windows mode and install the latest nvidia drivers downloaded from nvidia.com. Just do a standard (express) installation. Don't try anything fancy with a custom installation.

When all that is done, be sure to go into the nvidia control panel and turn on SLI. It will be disabled by default.

 

+135/+400 but always after like 30 min laptop crashes with black screen and when it responds fps drop a lot because it underclocks 405hz.
I've been looking for a workaround but I couldn't find anything.

 

I don't think you will find a fix. You're asking the impossible. +135MHz is fair enough. More than that and you are asking a LOT from integrated cards that were never designed with OCing in mind.

Currently I am running both my cards at stock 1098MHz Core. Memory is at 2700MHz. I can't really seem to play anything without temps getting insanely high on both cards.

I managed to get a semi-stable undervolt to -112.5mV but games like WoW seem really sluggish and jittery when underclocked and WoW still stops responding and black screens on me no matter if I am undervolted and @ 66C temps or if I am OC'd and @ 90C temps. No idea what the issue is there. Lowering voltage more than -112.5mV or upping the clock even 1 tick past 1098MHz causes an instant crash and in some cases a reboot.

What are your temps? This whole discussion is pointless if you don't mention your temps.

 

My Temps on most games are around 80-82c but while ocing they go up to 92c+. All time using fans at full speed.

 

I wouldn't OC if I were you. You have perfect temps. I would f**king kill to have my temps around 80C at stock. At stock currently my temps are 95C+

What are your core and memory speeds if you aren't OCing?

 

I flashed both the GPUS W/ Svl's 7 bios mod at techinferno. My clocks are 1058.5/5000. With Nvidia's 350.12 I manage to score only P5100 on 3DMark 11. With 347 I scored P5485, why are my scores so low? Btw I've enabled a setting in the unlocked bios which wont throttle the CPU so it stays ~ 31-32T throughout the test. Could you people post your scores with clocks.

 

I just read your thread about your issues and I was the one who suggested to undervolt, anyways I want you to report the CPU & Integrated GPU Temps running a benchmark or a game that stresses both. Good luck!

 

I think I fixed the issues with stability. I just went into the Nvidia control panel and changed the default power management from 'adaptive' to 'performance'. I think it happened after a driver update a week back or something. I think because I did a 'clean install' it set the setting back to f**king 'adaptive' which causes issues when I am trying to run games at ultra. I am not sure if this really DID fix the issue as I also deleted all of my WoW temp files too at the same time. Though after playing for about 2 hours I didn't get a single crash. I used to get them within about 5 minutes regardless of temps (I thought it was due to temps though (but it still might be)).
Anyway I tried undervolting in the thread I made (not sure if you read it or not) but I couldn't get anything lower (that wouldn't crash within 2mins) than -112.5mV and when I did that I got some pretty nasty lagging effects whilst playing games. Even though my FPS didn't report any drops or anything it definitely felt far less smooth than normal. The problem only went away after I removed the undervolt configs. In addition to that I still had crashes on occasion when stopping 3D programs (games etc) where the screen would just go black and the laptop would reboot. I didn't try anything at -100mV etc. though, so I may try tweaking it by something like -50mV or more (not more than -100mV) if it doesn't result in those weird lags.
My only real problem with this laptop was when games would crash and well if it was due to the stupid 'adaptive' setting not giving both my GT 755m cards enough power then I guess my problem is solved. I can handle temps of 85C max whilst playing WoW.
To answer your question, my temps got to 97C (whilst using FurMark) before throttling without the undervolt. With the above mentioned undervolt it took almost 10 minutes (before it was more like 3 minutes with the stock speeds) for them to get to 94C but they never got to 97C (and thus they never had to throttle).

When I tried to clock the VRAM even 100Mhz higher than normal on my 755m cards I started getting some artifacts in my games. I really wouldn't mess with the memory clocks if I were you. Did you set them when you flashed the custom V-BIOS or through another program?
FYI both my card clocks are at 1098Mhz and stable (at least I hope so after changing power back from 'adaptive' to 'performance' in Nvidia Control panel (make sure you do that too)). I really wouldn't mess with the memory though IIWY, I don't think there would be much of a performance increase and VRAM speeds are generally not really very adjustable without getting serious issues.
P.S. Do you have the 750s or 755s?

EDIT: I just realised that it seems you REDUCED the VRAM speeds down from 5400MHz to 5000MHz (or you are using 750m cards ((more likely)).

 

@ Hauptplatine

I have the 750s. I'm glad you solved your problem. Incase you still get issues I suggest you lower core & memory clocks (-25 on core and -100 on memory, that will let u undervolt more than -112mv and less heat too). BTW what is your voltage when the cards are being stressed? Also open up GPU-Z and right click on the program and report ASIC quality of both your gpus.

 

It seems I am still getting the problem of black screens and crashing 3D applications, though not as often with the Nvidia control panel power settings set to maximum performance and not adaptive.

2x GT 755m SLI:
My max voltages at the moment (stock untouched) are both cards at 1100mV.
Idle voltages are 825mV for the embedded GPU, and 812mV for the ultrabay card. Is it bad that both the voltages are a bit different? They seem to have the same max voltage though.
ASIC Quality is 72.1% on the first card and 76.1% on the second - What are yours?
Card 1 has BIOS 80.07.a8.00.2 e and the ultrabay card has 80.07.A8.00. 32 - could this also cause a problem?

Idle GPU clocks are 135MHz. Max clocks are 1098MHz. Both cards have memory clocked at 2700MHz for a total of 5400MHz.

Temps whilst playing WoW on Max @ 1920x1080 is roughly 80C. In fact my temps are actually better than I thought.

Any recommendations? I really want these to stop black screening.

Here's a CSV recording of the stats after a -112.5mV undervolt and -25MHz core -100MHz memory underclocks (as you suggested): http://www.mediafire.com/view/i75b8lu2c7kfvc6/NVIDIA_Inspector-MonitoringLog_2015-06-24_15_47_53.csv

There's no stuttering or sluggishness feeling (unlike last time). Temps seem really good. Nothing really higher than 75'C on GPU 1 and 68'C on GPU 2.

 

Yes the stock voltages are 1.1v for both 750/5 & at times a lil higher for 755ms. Idle voltages & vbioses are different at idle with me too. My ASIC quality for integrated gpu is 78% and 89% for UB. Your temps seem excellent. Download DDU nvidia uninstaller to completely remove drivers, use ccleaner to remove any remnants of these all while in safe mode (ddu will take you there automatically). Then install fresh drivers from nvidia. Also try with other games. Some games like a huge undervolt while others not so much.

P.S: How do you keep your temps so low?

 

I get these temps for many reasons:

1. I repasted the CPU and GPU with Arctic Cooling Silver 5.
2. I physically modified the bottom fan vents to make them larger for more airflow.
3. I have a cooler with 3 fans. 2 aimed at injecting cool air into the bottom of both GPUs and 1 at the bottom centre hotspot on the laptop.
4. I undervolted my cards by -112.5mV like you suggested which would also reduce temps. (This is roughly over 10% less voltage when compared to the previous max voltage)
5. When playing games like WoW, only roughly ~80% (max) of my cards are being used so they are not running at absolutely full power. Running @ 100% (benchmark) power causes temps of about ~92'C

I can't get any more performance out of them due to bandwidth and core constraints. If I OC I can get a pretty big fps increase (around 10fps more) but the card overheats often and is quite unstable.

So the reasons for my lower temps are because I've done pretty much everything physically possible to reduce them.
I even have a small modified desk fan that I can use to further push more cool air under the laptop at the expense of more annoying sound.

Currently I am using NvidiaInspector to keep my clocks and voltages set the way you specified. I was looking at a way to try and set them in the VBIOS so I wouldn't have to use any software like NvidiaInspector to underclock the card but due to me having an Intel 7620 AC (and I no longer have the other Wi-Fi card) I probably wouldn't be able to boot the laptop if I downgraded the BIOS (and I have to downgrade it to an official BIOS in order to install the modified one with the whitelist removed).

So in the end I just set a scheduled task via NvidiaInspector to set the voltages and clocks when I turn on my laptop.

In a couple of months this laptop is going to my girlfriend anyway and I will have a custom built gaming PC which will completely succeed this one.

Anyway I will keep the final settings of:

2x Core @ 1072MHz - 2x Memory @ 2600MHz - 2x Voltage @ -112.5mV

Stock settings are apparently:
2x Core @ 980MHz - 2x Memory @ 2700MHz - 2x Voltage at 1100mV

So I OC'd 92MHz on the cores, UC'd -100MHz on the VRAMs and UV'd 112.5mV on both cards.

I don't think the underclock on the RAM is going to be that bad anyway as the 128bit memory bandwidth is pretty low. In fact, I really doubt that it will impact performance at all, and instead just allow me to keep the undervolt more stable and thus reduce the heat for nothing.

Performance in WoW seems smooth, no stuttering or sluggishness and the cards don't get too hot as shown in the .CSV file. Hopefully this with the Nvidia Control Panel power settings set to 'high performance' finally fix this error of weird blackscreens and DNR errors. I don't really play any other games so I can't give much testimonials there.

I am unsure whether or not to go back to Nvidia.com's 353.30 drivers as Lenovo just released official drivers from their page a few days/weeks ago for Y410p/Y510p 750/5 cards and the version is 332.10. I haven't done any benchmarking on apps like 3dMark 11 because I couldn't get it to run and FurMark refuses to run in SLI no matter what and only ever utilises 1 card. So I am unaware as to which driver gives better performance. I installed these Lenovo-specific drivers the same way you mentioned though. With DDU in Safemode etc.

I'll try and see what I get in 3dMark 11 later so I have something to compare.

EDIT: After a few more blackscreens (though I wasn't sure if the GPU undervolts were selected properly) I decided I would go back to the latest Nvidia Drivers (350.30).

For references for anyone else (Lenovo Y510p 2x GT 755m SLI @ above clocks):
My 3dMark 11 scores on (332.10) were: 5359
My 3dMark 11 scores on (353.30) were: 5389

So there's only a tiny increase in performance on the latest drivers. I'll keep 3dMark 11 around though to see what scores I can get with future updates.

 

Please post pictures of the back cover of the laptop and or any other physical mods you've done to them. The official drivers are old so I'd suggest you stick to latest ones. If the problem of black screen doesn't go away I suggest a clean install of your windows. Lastly I'd again suggest to try other games like BF4 and Crysis 3 etc. If your problem persists then you can do a clean install and try other methods. BTW a clean install will break your onekey recovery which I think is stupid because it becomes uselsess if you make partitions. I hope your problem is solved. Good Luck!
(Do post pictures of your cover and other mods)

 

I am not about to open up my laptop when it's working really well. Sorry about that. Posting a picture of the bottom of my laptop is also kind of pointless as it would look the same as yours. Only the inside parts have been changed that are not viewable from a simple look at the bottom.

However here's the thread about the physical adjustments you can make to the laptop to cool it down a lot:
https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Lenovo...ealed-Unshroud-your-cooling-fans/td-p/1533688

Doing so however will void your warranty. So remember that. I did exactly how the person in that thread did and just followed his instructions to the letter.
If you go ahead and do the physical mod and void your warranty then make sure you do a good job, especially around the pegs that hold the bottom grill on as if you cut too many off you will ruin the grill on the bottom of your laptop. You could perhaps get your warranty back if you buy a spare bottom part of your laptop. Though I wouldn't bet my life on it.

Apart from that, well I have the U3 cooler like I said, and I've repasted the GPU and CPU. No point showing that as it would remove and destory the repasting that I did. You can Google up or Youtube a video about repasting.

I'm not going to change the drivers unless I get the feeling that my 3dMark 11 score is bad or something. Like I said, I've had this laptop for ages and ages now and how it currently runs is probably the best it has ever been. So in the words of Lance "If it isn't broken, don't fix it". So far with the undervolts you suggested I haven't had a black screen or even a minor lag. If they come back I will go ahead and reinstall my drivers.

Best
~H

 

i have also 94C + temperatures ,it doesn't matter if i play Witcher 3 or Skyrim - it's the same, the coolpad is very good , there is no dust on the fan , i don't understand how people have such low temps with this laptop . However it works fine, no throttling , but i don't think it's normal .

 

I already explained why we have such low temps. Some of us have gone to ridiculous lengths to keep the temps down. Read some of the posts before this one.

 

Remember, room temperature is a factor to have lower Temps.

 

i know but even if i make 20C in the room , the GPU still works at 94-97C . CPU's temps are fine but GPU gets really hot , maybe the paste is the problem .

 

It's been said many times that repasting and unshrouding the fan bays help a lot. You can't do either without voiding your warranty. Also a notebook cooler helps a lot too. You can't expect much improvement if you just undervolt the GPU. You'll have to get used to the laptop just being hot unless you want to void the warranty like the rest of us.

 

My usb ports keep cutting out and saying "power surge"

I tried using the other usb port but same thing.

Any ideas?

 

I get the same problem all the time with my 2 USB 3.0 ports on the left-hand side. I'd put it down to a faulty USB controller and an otherwise disappointing laptop. I haven't found a fix thus far either. It's very often that when I plug something in, it just disconnects and reconnects all the time. Tried disabling power saving policies etc. too from device manager and elsewhere. Nothing seems to work.

You may have some metal contacts touching or something shorting each other out.

 

Got off the phone with Lenovo Technical Support. They had me download Lenovo Solution Center software and run a harware scan in which everything passed.

I think its a software issue. Over a year with the same USB devices plugged in and all the sudden this starts happening now?

This seems to be a common issue after googling it.

Here's hoping it corrects itself.

Thanks for the reply Haup


Edit - After installing the latest windows 8.1 updates USB has been stable for about an hour! *knocks on wood*

2nd Edit - USB Still cutting in and out. I have reinstalled latest BIOS. Reinstalled all active USB devices.

3rd Edit - Reinstalled power management and problem still persists. I might try the "Refresh your PC without affecting your files" if USB ports continue cutting out

 

Did you try this?


I did this to all my power plans, High performance, Balanced and power saving:
Power Options>Change plan settings>Change advanced power options>USB settings>USB selective setting>On battery ( Change this to disabled)>Plugged in ( Change this to disabled)


Second thing I did:
Device manager>Universal Serial Bus controller>( Right click all the USB hubs shown and go to properties. If there is a power management tab click on it and make sure the following option is UNTICKED "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power"

Note: Not all the usb hubs showing will have the power management tab but some will. Strangely enough some of the "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" boxes were ticked and some were not by default (You want them to be UNTICKED)


Then I let my laptop run off its battery until it shut off. Rebooted and have been good since *Again knocks on wood*






This USB issue seemed to start for me after playing a steam game while my laptop was running off its battery.


I hope it will solve your USB issue aswell.

 

2nd day after doing the above^ with ZERO USB problems

 

Bought 250 GB Samsung 850 Evo.Now what?

Ok so bought Samsung 850 Evo 250 GB.

On my internal HDD I have no partitions.
Around 700 GB of content.

The questions are-
1. Should I buy a HDD USB 3.0 Enclosure or get a Caddy Bay.
I do sometimes use DVD.

2. I need to get some steam games and some Autodesk Softwares along with office and Windows on SSD.

Please help.

 

get a Caddy Bay, I did for mine(I have a 512gb ssd, and still not enough space for me...)...I wonder how Windows 10 go with this laptop...

 

updated to windows 10 on July 29th. Everything working well except getting direct X crash while playing BF4, apparently it is a nvidia driver issue.

Nice to have the start menu back.

 

Do you have sli?

 

Yes

 

I was having some glitches when gaming on W10 with latest nvidia drivers so I installed an older nvidia drivers and everything it's ok now.

 

I tried rolling back to the previous driver but same thing.

What does work is turning off SLI but doing so makes my framerate unplayable in BF4.

Ah well, guess i'll have to play some other games until nvidia releases a new driver

 

Hi guys, it's been a while.

So I've upgraded to Win10 on my X240, and was thinking of doing the same on my Y510p. What is the driver situation like currently? I looked on Lenovo's website, and couldn't see a single driver for Win10. So no Dolby Home Theatre and all the other goodies?

If this is the case, I probably won't be upgrading.

 

Dolby home theatre? I didn't know we had that preloaded.

Windows 10 is great except SLI is not working in BF4 (Which is a nvidia issue) and I noticed when I try to send my phone something over bluetooth it gets stuck at "sending". Those are the only problems i'v had with win 10 so far after upgrading on July 29th.

i like how you get a different random wake up screen every so often with windows 10.

Having the start menu is also very nice to have back.


Edit - Lenovo definitely needs to release an updated working Bluetooth driver for windows 10. I just tried sending a pic from my phone to my laptop and it wont work either.

 

https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Lenovo...-Windows-10-Upgrade-Y510p/td-p/2130021/page/3

Dont expect W10 support fellas

 

Thats not good.

http://support.lenovo.com/ca/en/pro...eapad-y-series-laptops/ideapad-y510p-notebook

^under the operating system tab there was Windows 10 like a week ago and the only driver available for it was the nvidia vga driver.
I hope they repost the windows 10 with a much needed windows 10 bluetooth driver.



Edit- I made progress with bluetooth, go to device manager>Bluetooth>intel(R)WirelessBluetooth(R) Right click go to properties>Driver and update driver.

After doing this i can send my phone files from my pc but I tried sending a file from phone to PC and it wouldn't work, maybe a restart will fix that.

Edit#2- Restarting PC made no difference, still cant send file from phone to PC via Bluetooth. I rarely send files from my phone to PC but still this should be working.

Come on Lenovo, release some updated windows 10 drivers if you want people to support your products.

 

I think that the problem with Bluetooth is mostly Intel side because they don't have a software for managing bluetooth, like other companies do.

 

I got it to work both ways!

In order to receive a bluetooth file from phone to y510p I need to right click on bluetooth icon then click "receive file" then send from phone and the file will successfully send.

Strange how you have to click on receive file everytime but atleast bluetooth is now working both ways.

 

What I would like to have was a2dp for music streaming, but I could only achieve it with a paid software "bluesolil".

 

Lenovo gave up on driver support so early for this laptop, it's a complete joke.

This will be my last non-business Lenovo laptop for sure.

 

Woah really? That's terrible, but maybe the y400/500 drivers will work? For some reason Lenovo updated there even older laptops with Windows 10 drivers.

y400: http://support.lenovo.com/us/en/pro...deapad-y-series-laptops/ideapad-y400-notebook
y500: http://support.lenovo.com/us/en/pro...deapad-y-series-laptops/ideapad-y500-notebook

 

if you actually select the windows 10 option, there are no drivers availible. This being said, W10 supports all the hardware out of the box except for Lenovo Energy Management, and i just installed the W8.1 one and it's working perfectly.

 

Wait are you referring to the y400/500 pages? There are windows 10 drivers which are actually downloadable. That said, you're right everything pretty much works. Even Lenovo Energy Management it seems. On one of my previous fresh installs, a week or so ago, Windows 10 booted up with a seemly newer version of Lenovo Energy Management installed. It had a totally different design, with all the same functionally and popped up in a tiny window attached to the taskbar instead of the large one we have in Windows 8. I haven't been able to find it since however, and have just decided to use the older version as you have.