Ideapad Y510P

First off I don't know why you're trying to install windows 8 out of every windows.... imo and thousands of others, it's literally the WORST operating system windows has ever made.

I'm not running windows 8 and never will, but I'll tell you how to install windows 7

NOTE: BACKUP YOUR FILES!

Step 1: Look for and download a clean, STOCK windows 7 iso image

Step 2: Download and install Daemon Tools Pro (it's the best image burning program to this date)

Step 3: Burn the stock windows 7 image on the SLOWEST speed to a blank DVD disk with Daemon Tools Pro (it's recommended to finalize the burn also)

Step 4: Download the latest Windows Loader by Daz (v2.2.2) and save it on a usb drive (this program is used to fully activate windows)

Step 5: Download the latest Intel WLAN driver off the official Intel website FOR YOUR CARD and save it to the usb drive also. NOTE: If you burned x86 windows, download the 32-bit driver. If you burned x64 windows, download the 64-bit driver.

Step 5: Turn off your computer and boot into the bios by pressing the recovery button on the left side of the laptop

Step 6: Enable usb boot and enable legacy support. Once done save and exit the bios

Step 7: If your laptop didn't come with an optical drive, plug in an external optical drive via usb (this is where the usb boot comes in)

Step 8: Put the burnt windows 7 disk in an optical drive and boot off of it

Step 9: Do custom install and once you're at the page where windows asks where to install windows, first format the drive THEN select it for the install

Step 10: Once windows has finished, it will boot to the desktop. The VERY first thing you have to do is activate it. Run Windows Loader off the usb drive and activate windows, you will have to reboot.

Step 11: The second thing you have to do is download and install all the drivers. Since your freshly installed windows had nothing on it, including the WLAN driver to access internet, you're gonna have to install the Intel WLAN driver that you've saved to the usb drive.

Step 12: After you installed the WLAN driver and rebooted, you should be able to see access points and connect to your internet. Now download and install the drivers for the y510p off the lenovo support website. *NOTE: DOWNLOAD AND INSTALL THE: Intel Graphics, Intel WLAN/Blutooth, Intel USB 3.0, and NVIDIA drivers OFF THE OFFICIAL WEBSITES!*

Step 13: After all the drivers are installed, NOW you should install ALL the windows updates

By the end of all of this you should have a freshly installed windows 7 that's FULLY & PERMANENTLY activated with all the drivers and updates installed.

 

Thanks, but I finally got it figured out.

I really don't mind 8 (8.1), and seeing as I paid for the license on this laptop, I might as well use it. Why buy a second license?

I'll provide a step-by-step of what I did, if people want, but to sum up: install new SSD, download 8.1 ISO, make a bootable USB, and install from there. The key was finding the right ISO that matches the laptop; when correct, it pulls the key automatically from the bios.

The SSD is so much better. I also kept 20GB or so unformatted so I can us the Fnet software to increase the HDD performance as well.

 

Buy? What is this "buy" you're speaking of...?

 

I think he thinks you want him to buy a new win 7 license key

 

You don't get it.

 

Well, dont quote me on it

Sent from my HUAWEI P6-U06 using Tapatalk

 

I don't have or want a Windows 7 key/os, so I'm not going to "acquire" one

And the mutli-partition of the SSD was a waste. Currently, there is no way to use part of the SSD to cache the HDD, and the rest of the SSD as an OS partition. Apparently, MydigitalSSD/Fnet are looking at a way to make it work, but no telling how long that may be.
I'm just going to extend my main OS partition to use the whole SSD for now.

 

Hi all,

Been following along this thread. For a while I have used Throttlestop on my Y510p SLI, with effective results. A few days ago, it has stopped working, without making any changes (other than Windows updates). I have checked the settings, but with the multiplier set, and Throttlestop on - it is still throttling down to 800Mhz. I have checked the power settings - its on max performance. Windows 8.1 Pro.

Anyone encountered this? Anyone know of an alternative to Throttlestop that I can try?

Edit: Just to clarify, the temp isn't getting too hot - around 80C and its throttling. Before it could go right up to 99C.

Cheers!

 

How you get work pad, because mine doesnt work. No scroll, no zoom... i installed the last drivers and nothing

Enviado desde mi GT-I9300 mediante Tapatalk

 

Simple. Install your proper drivers!

 

viper_racing_54 - If you need help with ThrottleStop, go to the ThrottleStop thread in my signature and post a screenshot that shows the problem. If it is dropping down to 800 MHz, make sure BD PROCHOT is not checked. I am using ThrottleStop 7 and my Y510P is running at its full Intel rated speed and then some.

http://i.imgur.com/ifF1Y5q.png

 

Thank you very much, it was BD PROCHOT checked (must have accidentally bumped it). Now I just have to figure out how to keep my laptop nice and cool like yours!! Cheers

 

If you're talking about the synaptic trackpad driver you should try turning off driver signing and the installing it.

 

I ordered my Y510p and I want to repaste everything (CPU and both GPUs). I also have a one year accidental damage warranty.

Say my screen suffers from a defect after I paste, or I drop the laptop and the screen breaks - something like that. Would Lenovo probably do the ethical thing and fix it, or say "Nope, the seal is broken, it's all on you"?

 

Hi, I ordered this version of Y510p few days ago

Lenovo Y510p | High-Performance 15.6" Multimedia Laptop from Lenovo | Lenovo (US)

and I was wondreng how to add another drive ( SSD )
I want to keep the HHD for storage and make the SSD the primary drive ( the one with the OS ), but I don't know which size of SSD should I buy and where should I install on?? I prefer not to replace the DVD.

please answer in my thread

http://forum.notebookreview.com/ideapad-essential/754921-how-add-ssd-y510p.html#post9688520

 

It looks like it already has the 24GB SSD in it so you just need to buy a 42mm M.2. SSD and replace the smaller one with a bigger one. However, transferring the OS to the SSD is a bit harder.

MydigitalSSD is the only people that have a 42mm M.2. SSD at the moment (128 GB max size) that you can buy.

 

so no way to add bigger SSD ? I was thinking of samsong evo

 

^ Wow. Talk about novice...

 

no shame in that arrogant

 

i did it but nothing. Some tutorial?

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There is only room for 3 drives in the laptop. If you're keeping the HDD and optical drive, then you only have the 24GB M.2 left. A 256GB model has just been announced, but not sure when you can buy it.

Technically, the most you could squeeze out of the space right now, is a 128GB M.2, and a WD Black 2, which is a combo 1TB HDD and 120GB SSD.

Or you could go over the top and get a HDD caddy to replace the optical drive. Imagine 2x 1TB HDD's, and 3x 120GB SSD's in one laptop

 

Thanks for the response, I now have a good idea about my options, I'm starting to consider HHD caddy, but can I replace the HHD with SSD and then take the HHD and put it inside the caddy because it's a storage drive so it wouldn't hurt to take it off whenever I need to put the optical drive back so I can use for some tasks ?

 

Guys please help me decide; this or msi ge70 apache pro?
I dislike this laptop because it overheats and i am unsure about the micro stutter :/ gaming is the most important thing. Which one should i pick?

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Yep, that will work as long as you have nothing mapped to the storage drive live a library or program stuff.

 

Thanks, looks like I'm gonna go with this option, especially that I have read some bad reviews about the 42mm SSD in amazon, some people say after a while It failed!

 

Must be the luck of the draw, mine has been going strong for months and months now.

 

Seems like almost everything about this laptop is luck of the draw. Some say it over heats at the slightest tasks, while others are running BF4 on max settings getting 80c temps on their GPUs lol.

 

I was playing wildstar with max settings the 2nd card went up to 95c but this week its only gotten up to 78c :shrugs:

 

I would have to look into temps being that high and if it could damage our laptops.Water boils at 100C.... if our laptops gets to 5 degrees below that, I'm almost positive it could damage our laptops over time!

You guys just go with it. If my y510p was getting THAT hot from playing high-demand games, I would defiantly do something about it. I want this laptop to last AT LEAST 2 years.

 

how hot will a laptop cpu get before it overheats and the laptop turns off?

 

You don't want to get anywhere near that point, but its around 105/106C for the i7 4700MQ in the y510p. The thermal limit varies with the CPU.

 

thanks

playing bf hardline beta according to intel tuning utility im hovering around 92c

I think this thing just runs hot naturally, i mean lenovo must have tested i,. especially since it was marketed as a gaming laptop

 

Hello guys. I'm new to this forum. I want to ask you guys, why is my nvidia inspector keeps resetting and i cannot set the fan. When i play something, i already checked prioritize temperature to 65 celcius but after about 10 minutes it reset itself to 96 celcius. I have ran it with administrator but no change. Please help, cause it is bugging me. If i play the sims 3 of course i can check it per 10 minutes but if i play fps games how am i supposed to keep re-check it?

 

100C per Intel's spec for Haswell. Ivy Bridge is 105C.

 

Running a CPU at 90c will definitely decrease its lifespan. Have you tried undervolting? It's a software-only process, no need to take apart your computer. It doesn't decrease performance either. Here's a guide: http://forum.notebookreview.com/har...arket-upgrades/235824-undervolting-guide.html

It's also worth using the constant 100% fan speed mod if you aren't already.

 

Thats what I thought.... the heat would decrease the lifespan of the cards.

 

http://www.intel.com/content/dam/ww...obile-m-h-processor-lines-vol-1-datasheet.pdf



Intel says that the PROCHOT signal goes active when the CPU has reached its "maximum safe operating temperature". This happens when the 4th Generation 4700MQ reaches a peak core temperature of 100C. Lenovo goes one step further and is using a 1C offset to this value. This means that PROCHOT will go active and my Y510P - 4700MQ will start to thermal throttle at 99C instead of the offical Intel specified 100C temperature.

I think I am going to trust Intel on this one. They have done extensive testing and are well aware of what kind of temperatures their CPUs can run reliably at. The whole reason they started using individual core temperature sensors and located them on the hottest spots on the core was so users could obtain maximum performance out of their CPUs without fear of damaging them. Intel does not want their CPUs slowing down and performing poorly when the core temperature is still in the safe zone. This technology works incredibly well and is well proven over years of testing. If Intel's CPUs were all going KA-BOOM at 100C then it would be simple for Intel to lower the PROCHOT temperature.

 

Is this coded into the y510p bios or just the card itself?

 

The Arrhenius equation holds that, given all other factors are held constant, every ten degree increase in the temperature of an integrated circuit roughly halves its lifespan. Tons of anecdotal evidence on overclocking forums back this up.

Do what you wish, but computers are expensive and I'm keeping my CPU under eighty degrees as much as I can.

 

Why doesn't anyone reply my question?

 

It is impossible to change the y410p's fan speed with software atm.

 

I have never tried undervolting and to be honest I really dont want to change anything from stock form.

Same goes for the fan speed, i dont want to mess around with it.

Thanks though

 

Intel hard coded the 100C thermal throttling temperature into the 4700MQ. Some laptop manufacturers decided that this was too hot so over the years, they created some truly bizarre and punishing throttling schemes. A CPU could be left running at less than 10% of its rated speed due to a variety of throttling methods all being applied at the same time. This reduced performance was allowed to continue long after the CPU was idle.

In order to avoid this problem, Intel added a PROCHOT offset feature to their recent CPUs. If a laptop or tablet manufacturer is squeamish about an Intel CPU not starting to throttle until 100C, they can set an offset of up to 15°C to the official PROCHOT value. If they used the full 15°C offset, thermal throttling would begin at 85°C instead of 100°C. The offset value is set by the bios and it can not be changed after you boot up. Being able to offset PROCHOT could be a useful feature if you are designing a tablet and you do not want it getting too warm in a users hands.

When buying an Intel CPU in a gaming oriented laptop, I expect that it will be able to run at its full Intel rated speed right up to the maximum safe operating temperature as published in the Intel datasheet. The Lenovo engineers decided to use a 1°C offset for the Y510P which is pretty much useless. I wonder how many proposals and high level meetings were required to decide to go with the 1°C offset number. The engineers should have been using that wasted time designing a better heatsink and fan for the Y510P. That's what it really needs.

 

I agree with this^ aswell as I beleive these CPU's would have had to gone through some serious testing.


Say for instance the laptop actually started shutting itself off due to the fail safe kicking in then I would start to worry.

 

Hello all,

I recently got a y510p model from newegg with i5 and 500+8gb sshd with 6gb ram and I really love it. I just thought I can just get cheap model and customize it the way I wanted to, so I opened this laptop and it have a mSata slot, not m.2. I just wanted help and/or advices from you guys. Before I go out to buy it, I just want know what size do I need from ssd? I was thinking to clone Windows from HDD to SSD if there wouldn't be issues. I am planning to upgrade to 1TB or 750GB on hard drive and replace 2GB with 4GB RAM. What do you guys think?

 

All the Y510p have the M.2. slot or they have no slot at all. You sure you don't have a Y500 instead of a Y510p?

 

I opened it and its msata pin connector. Its like a 2 pin on the bottom right corner. My model is y510p. I read through the forum that only lenovo gets m.2 anywhere else is no slot or msata. I guess I got the early y510p model. I can take a picture if you like? The model on newegg right now is $819, I'm on my phone atm

 

no no, i'm using Y510P. the thing is, why nvidia inspector keeps resetting the prioritize temperature? i tried using evga precision but same thing happened, even i can't change the temperature settings!

 

I don't think setting the temp target in Inspector to anything but the default works on this laptop. For example, my Y500 is stuck at its max of 91C under "Prioritize Temperature." If I try to uncheck it, it simply rechecks itself every time. The setting also seems to have changed with a driver or Inspector update as I remember that it could go up to 97C last year.

You can try manually editing the clocks shortcut or .bat file to see if you can adjust the temp target that way.

 

Hello, I bet this has been answered before but here I go.

I just updated to Windows 8.1, I did updated the Vbios already and now it detects SLI normally again, but on Chrome my resolution is now 720p even if desktop is on 1080p, it also applies to some menus like Device Manager for example. It looks very blurish and my bookmarks icons row now doesnt fit on top but rather have a >> mark to see the remaining ones that were visible before.

Whats going on? What do I have to do to see Chrome on perfect non blurish 1080p again?

Thanks in advance.