Laptop Screen Upgrades

Hello people,
I just bought a Dell Precision 7720 (i7-6820 / Quadro P3000 / FHD Lcd display) and I would like to upgrade the screen to a UHD (4K) type. I noticed that there are a multitude of similar models on the market (china, ebay, panelock...). I still can not get this information in a precise way: which screen model could work in the upgrade.
In Panelok site I found these 4k models:
B173ZAN01.0 - AUO
N173DSE-G31 - Innolux
B173ZAN01.1 - AUO
B173ZAN01.2 - AUO
B173ZAN01.3 - AUO
LQ173D1JW33 - SHARP
LQ173D1JW31 - SHARP
B173ZAN01.4 - AUO
Apparently I should also change the cable, which is easier to find.
Anyone know or has anyone tried this?
Thanks!

 

what's your panel at the moment?

 

I can not answer right now because the computer I bought will only arrive on the 31st, a friend will bring it from London. the only thing I know is that it's FHD.

Enviado de meu G8142 usando o Tapatalk

 

you need to be sure about that panel IMHO

 

Hi, I see that this thread is pretty active. @t456 might remember me from last summer trying to upgrade my GL502VS stock screen (LP156WF6-SPB6) to an AUO B156HAN04.3 120Hz screen. I couldn't complete that project last year because of school but now I'm back for another try. I reinstalled the screen, 120Hz works but now I can't do brightness control (it worked last summer but I can't recreate it) and I can't update to lastest Nvidia drivers or it will black screen. I'm still trying monitor INFs and I'm open to software or hardware EDID editing but I'm a little lost. Any advice from you experienced individuals? Sorry if I'm asking on the wrong thread, tell me if I did and I'll remove my post. Thanks

 

Have the Lenovo 530s, Monitor\LGD0563, Any idea if I can upgrade it.

Update
I used monitor asset and this can up if it helps LP156WF9-SPK1

Thanks

 

I'm guessing there's not a replacement panel, as I had no reply's.

 

No results for that LP156WF9-SPK1
http://www.panelook.com/product_list.php?keyword=LP156WF9-SPK1

 

Thanks for looking,

 

Hello!
Im totally new to this forum, so please, give advice:
I have Dell G3 17.3 3779. With LP173WF4 display model. FullHD@60Hz. With 30 pin socket (I think that 30 pin, maybe im not right?).
And i want to replace it with 1080p@120Hz, OR 4K@60Hz.
As i see, i need 30 pin -> 40 pin connector for changing it?
Thanks!

 

check this N156HHE-GA1 120hz Fhd panel ,edp 2lanes, 30pins connector

http://www.panelook.com/N156HHE-GA1_Innolux_15.6_LCM_overview_33306.html

 

you are welcome!

 

15.6 inches =\
Somebody said about N173HHE-G32, and said that its 30-pin monitor, can this be?

 

My bad, that's a 15"

btw N173HHE-G32 is not compatible because eDP (4 Lanes) , 40 pins


@t456 is there a 120hz 17" panel with a 30pins connector?

 

as I thought
If I only knew that it's so hard to find 120 Hz for a 17 inch, 30-edp

UPDATE: Its strange.
Here we have 120 Hz with 30 pin edp: http://www.eurocom.com/ec/release(345)ec .
EUROCOM Sky X7E2 and Sky X9E2 Display Options:
- 17.3-inch (43.9cm); FHD IPS 1920x1080; MATTE (Non-Glare); 300nts; 700:1; 72% NTSC; eDP 30pin;LP173WF4 SPD1
- 120Hz; 17.3-inch (43.9cm) QHD (3K); 2560x1440; eDP;TN; MATTE (Non-Glare); 700:1; 300nts; 5ms; eDP; AUO B173HAN01.3
- 120Hz; 17.3-inch (43.9cm) FHD 1920x1080; MATTE (Non-Glare); IPS; 700:1; 300nts; eDP; AUO B173HAN01.1
- 17.3-inch (43.9cm); 4K UHD 3840x2160; MATTE IPS; eDP; 1000:1; Adobe RBG 100%; 400nts; AUO B173ZAN01.0

But if we check these models with panelook: http://www.panelook.com/B173HAN01.3_AUO_17.3_LCM_overview_33384.html .
30 pin, yes. But with 60Hz only.
Its soooo strangeee.

 

Supposedly the AUO B173HAN01.1 HW0A is a 17.3 inch 30-pin IPS 120hz panel. However, its response time is no better than your LG so you would be better off just trying to overclock the LG to 100hz (they did on Alienware 17R4 usually). The AUO may also have a much, much worse anti-glare coating which significantly degrades text quality and the white / bright colors. It was one of the main reasons why I switched from a AUO B173HAN01.0 to a Chimei N173HHE-G32 in my 17R4.

 

Big thanks for reply.
Yeah, i already OC my display to 79 Hz. With 80 im facing some artifacts.
I think that with higher fps and with the same response time it will be better for gaming, or no?

 

@Eurocom Support

 

And one more question, 4K@60Fps displays cannot be 30 pin?

 

Some general info and work I put together a little while back regarding panel swaps and upgrades:

STARTS HERE (Pg. 47) :
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/dell-inspirion-7577.808514/page-47#post-10646053

ENDS HERE (Pg. 51) :
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/dell-inspirion-7577.808514/page-51#post-10647781

It should be universally applicable for the most part.

My biggest recommendation is to always double check the pinouts whenever possible by pulling data sheets for the OEM panel and the intended upgrade panel.

It's not that hard to create a dummy account for panelook and get a free download.

It's a small hassle to deal with if it means upgrading to a panel nobody else has figured out yet and maintaining full functionality while avoiding frying your motherboard.

 

I think DARCODER for his 4K panel upgrade was able to mod a cable to run the 4 lanes off a 30 pin eDP port, but he had to wire the cable himself, the model (P377SMA) was 1080p max from the factory and the panel end (B173ZAN01) was 40pin

TL;DR technically possible but very difficult. (one wrong connection and very high likelihood that poof goes the motherboard and/or panel)

 

Sweet. In my post above you can find links to custom cable makers as well which can help adapt non-standard panel upgrades to a given machine. I agree with your sentiment though.

Also important to note is not every pin on eDP connectors is always populated or used, hence the ability to force adaptations.

Now if only I could get full access to the eDP standards documentation. (It costs money :'( )

 

Hi, I got an Asus R510JX, with a 1366x768 panel (AU Optronics, model no: B156XTN04.5) and bought a 1920x1080 panel (AU Optronics, model no: B156HTN03.8). It should have worked neatly but it isn't.

The cable goes in nicely, but when I boot the PC up, the screen is greyed out and I can see "DM" written upside down here : https://imgur.com/a/uykwRFZ (sorry for the quality but taking a photo of a screen is tough).
Edit : Ok yeah w/e the upside down DM is the screen protector I didn't take off, so in the end my screen only displays grey.

If this was a lane number problem (needing 2 but only got 1) shouldn't it display like 1 line out of 2 ? Not this ?
Do I have to flash my bios or something ?...

EDIT2: My cable model is X550 eDP LVDX Cable, 1422-01JN000, after some searches I can't find a laptop that uses this cable and is Full HD, so my cable would be at fault here ?

Edit3: Bought a new cable, for the same laptop model but the ones with FHD panels, gonna have some fun replacing that cable in a few days, will try not to forget to give feedback

 

Be careful sir, you may be on a crash course to blowing up your laptop. Check those pinouts and at least make sure the hot pins are in the same position. Signal pins getting crossed aren't *as* bad...

 

Do you mean that if I mess something up when I change the cable I might fry the mobo ? Or do you mean that maybe the cable I bought isn't compatible at all with my video adapter/output ? I mean there are other R510JX with 1080p panels, I hope Asus didn't purposefully change the graphical output of the mobo on specific sub-models of the R510JX just to prevent an upgrade...

 

It's not necessarily that the pinouts are different to prevent upgrades, but that each panel manufacturer has their own pinouts that the laptop manufacturers must adapt to when spec'ing out a given laptop model they plan on releasing.

And although there are eDP standards in place, they don't necessarily include a hard pinout that must be followed by all manufacturers. They are more just general guidelines.

But any time you change cables on top of a new panel that is not the stock panel of a mainstream model derivative, your chances of frying your Mobo or new panel go up significantly.

 

I might have lessened the chances of that happening even by just a bith since both my panels are manufactured by AUO and share nearly the same model no (I know it's not a guarantee, but they seem to be related sub-models).

Can I check "physically" by looking at both cables and spotting differences ? Or is it "inside" ?

I should maybe remove my brand new SSD and one stick of RAM when I change the panel, just in case something goes wrong ahah

 

Do any of you check whether your display changed the usage of pwm after you upgrade the display?
For example for dell g7 7588.
Then you change your screen from its stock screen (60Hz IPS panel) to Chimei N156HHE-GA1 (120Hz TN panel).
You all know that based on notebookcheck.net, dell g7 has no pwm on all brightness setting.
So will it still free from pwm, or now it use pwm in any brightness setting with new screen?

I actually already discussed this with maleko48 and we ask one laptop screen website. They replied that "the pwm comes from electrical component of the laptop. So if you by any chance, successfully replace the screen, the screen pwm condition will be the same with new screen."

Despite this, i still want to know from the actual practice and this thread is a perfect place to ask because the claim above still feels like just a theory.

Anybody with an opportunity to check your laptop pwm?

 

This is correct; all led panels use pwm and all non-ancient laptops use pwm to drive them.

But this isn't. Some panel manufacturers opt for variable-voltage controlled backlights (like in the old days) and simply use the pwm signal provided by the laptop to know what voltage to use. Once set this voltage is continuous and no on/offs are necessary. They'd still have to choose pwm for the control method since that's the only way to have a single standard that any laptop could use.

But even if it is a pure pwm-pwm panel; they don't all use the same sampling frequency and have different min-max brightness values (excuse the nomenclature). That is to say; it takes time to go from ' on' to ' off', so you always have a transition period where the led is dimming, but not yet fully darkened. There's a choice to be made by the manufacturer; low sampling frequencies and 'hard' switching will give you the best power savings, but at the expense of worsened flicker.

What makes it tricky to compare one panel to the other is that the manufacturer has no choice but to specify the frequency range of the pwm signal it is expecting for every single panel (this is true for both pwm-voltage panels and pwm-pwm panels), but they don't all specify the dimming method used internally. So a pwm-voltage panel with a top pwm frequency of a mere 1,000Hz would be preferable to a pwm-pwm model at 20,000Hz (pretty much the maximum). The detailed nbr reviews are therefor very useful.

A question arises:
How does the laptop know what pwm frequency range to send to the panel?

Answer:
It doesn't.

Well ... the laptop manufacturer chose the screens and knows this perfectly well, but only from looking at the sheets. If you now change the panel to one with a different range then there's a several possibilities:

Code:

old lcd ........ new lcd ........ result

5-10KHz ........ 200-1KHz ....... invalid values sent to panel; lcd fully on, no brightness control possible
200-1kHz ....... 5-10KHz ........ invalid values sent to panel; lcd fully on, no brightness control possible
1-10KHz ........ 200-1KHz ....... full brightness, no control
200-1kHz ....... 1-10KHz ........ fully off by default (lowest brightness), but fully on when turning brightness down

Two sets of standards commissions made a boo-boo here; the LVDS and eDP commissions could've opted for a two-way pwm signal and inform the laptop of its desire range during the powering up stage of the lcd. They'd be correcting the omission made by the older EDID group; this is just the sort of thing that belongs in the display parameters that have to be physically embedded in every single panel and every laptop knows how to read out (technically, it's the video card's job).

Now, if you make laptops with several screen options to choose from and they don't all have the same pwm range then you need to solve this mess somehow. The usual choice is for a lookup table in the bios or vbios that compares the edid sent by the panel to the pwm range manually typed over by the (v)bios engineer. An alternative, sledge-hammer approach is offering different (v)bioses for the different panels and let the customer figure out which to use.

Hmm ... come to think of it, there's a third, far more elegant approach; a bios option that can be set by the user. Out-of-range values are not a problem since the panel will simply ignore them, so the rma risk to the laptop manufacturer would be non-existent.

 

Wow, thank you for your thorough explanation. I am also sorry I don't really get all your technical explanation.
So to put it simply, are you saying that if we change the screen, there is possibility that the laptop with no use of pwm before, become using pwm to control the brightness with the new screen?

 

He basically said some laptop panels use a type of hardware-based adapter / converter to compensate for different laptop manufacturers standard operating modes/methods that their motherboards are designed with.

 

Something like that; all laptops send a pwm signal to the screen, whichever panel is attached (this is what the shop mentioned). It's just that some panels convert this to a variable voltage to drive the backlight, while others use the same signal to turn the backlight on and off very vast ('true' pwm, if you like).

With a panel swap the laptop doesn't change and any panel expects a pwm signal (to be sure; both GA1 and your current panel, whichever one that is). All would be peachy then, except that the range of that signal differs from one panel to the next. This too would've been easily solved by mandating a range that is high enough for both backlight driving methods; a voltage-driven bl doesn't need a high pwm frequency, but it'd be perfectly happy to use one whereas the reverse situation wouldn't work.

If you're worried that the GA1 won't have brightness control on your system then look up the specification sheets of both panels and find out their pwm range. Knowing they match more or less would clinch it ... except if the laptop builder resorted to (v)bios intelligence in order to support different frequency ranges. This is hard to find out beforehand, but suppose you could check all possible panel options that were officially offered for the base model (that can include different models due to motherboard and (v)bios recycling).

 

I am good now.

 

Acer Helios 300 upgraded with a 120Hz Panel

 

Thanks

 

Lol LTT is so bad nowadays.
Pretty obvious they used NBR for info. There's lots of useful info here to get people ready to change their panels and do it the right way.

Screw all of that! Let's just buy whatever panel and try to fit it. If it doesn't work on this one we have moar laptops to test.

No reference to lanes, little reference to cables or connections used, power draw, etc... Just another useless video made in a day

 

Their past couple weeks videos have had quite a few cringe worthy uploads. To the point of it being more wreckless to put the half ass ideas out there to the average Joe's who will likely attempt them and screw up their system pretty bad, etc.

 

Laptop screen replacement / How to replace laptop screen Lenovo ThinkPad P51

 

Hi Sir.
I have Lenovo Legion Y530 with new thin bezel screen IPS 60Hz. This screen is so dim and poor color accuracy. I want to know which model I can find to replace the better one. I found NV156FHM-N61 but not sure the exact or compatible model. thanks

 

Wow, just the thread I needed.

So two questions:
1. Can you update a Clevo P177SM to a 2K @ 120Hz display or to a 4K display? As far as I know, the P177SM uses an LVDS port so the upgrade is not possible.

2. Can I upgrade the display in my ageing M570TU from CCFL to LED? Right now I am using a Samsung LTN170CT05 and I also know that the LG LP171WU3 TL A3 is compatible with my laptop. I wish I could upgrade to a 1920x1200 LED-based display. The CCFL lamps degrade in time.

 

1. what panel there?

2. that's a difficult question for me. may be @t456 know that

 

1. I don't know. I don't own a P177SM. But the original is here: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Revie...ker-XMG-P704-Barebones-Notebook.114090.0.html Chi Mei N173HGE.
Any 4K or 2K display is fine for me as long as it works in the P177SM.[/QUOTE]

 

1. The PxxEM/SM Clevo series can have dual connectors, both 2-channel LVDS and 4-lane eDP. So you can't rely on the review; it can have either an LVDS or eDP panel and thus a different cable to match. Check the first post for some useful tools or, if it's broken, pen down the sticker at the back *.

If it's an LVDS then only 2k is possible, but all eDP connectors on these models are 4-lane and can do 4k. Trouble is that some of the models offered 3D panels as well (not necessarily having a '3' code at the end). In that case, if you wanted 4k and not a 1080p-3D, then you'd have to do some soldering since their control voltage on eDP is 5V (for the 3D panel), whereas almost every other panel runs on 3.3V.

2. Yes, but the TLA3 is also CCFL. Used to be you'd get a CCFL->LED adapter plus a new LED screen as well, but today there's some nice buck-converters with normal LED strips. These step down the voltage rather than increasing it as the CCFL inverter did. Benefit is that it's cheaper, uses less energy and you can keep the old panel. This one should be a good match for the T05:
355mm LED Backlight Strip Kit For Update CCFL LCD Screen To Monitor U4A6

It's a single CCFL, uses a 6-pin connector for the inverter and is roughly the correct length. Some of the listings claim you can snip off a few of the LED, trimming it down to the correct size. If so then you could also get a 385mm and get it to fit your screen more closely. Just make sure it's 6-pin and that it sports brightness control (that's what the two center pins are for).

Spoiler: *

If the system can't be booted and the broken panel has been disposed of then you could also use a roundabout method:

1. Attach its Windows drive to another system.
2. Make a copy of the '%SystemRoot%\System32\config\SYSTEM' file (no extension).
3. Run regedit.
4. Navigate to the root of 'HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE'.
5. Use the 'File -> Load Hive' option and point to the copied file.
6. Navigate down to the new 'Temp' key in HKLM and from there to 'Temp\HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Enum\DISPLAY'.
7. Pen down the PnP IDs or use the 'Export' option.

 

I see now.
I think we need to start with the beginning.
My thoughts are like this:
1. I want to upgrade the display in my M570TU, but I don't want to keep it. I would like to put something like this in: http://www.panelook.com/LP171WU7-TLD1_LG Display_17.1_LCM_overview_5833.html
I am also very short on time, so I want something that I can easily put into place. Like buying an adapter cable + a new display sounds like a great idea. My current display has 2 dead pixels so I am not keen on keeping it. I just need to know what adapter cable and display to buy.
The display I linked earlier was just an example of current compatible displays with my laptop, but it's not the display I want to put it. It was an example so you or anyone else can tell what type of connector my laptop currently has.

I've also noticed that some displays are 40 pins, others are 50 pins.

This is the complete list of panels that I looking to put into my M570TU, from what I think it's best to worst:
http://www.panelook.com/LP171WU5-TLB1_LG Display_17.1_LCM_overview_5827.html
http://www.panelook.com/LP171WU5-TLA4_LG Display_17.1_LCM_overview_5826.html
http://www.panelook.com/LP171WU6-TLB2_LG Display_17.1_LCM_overview_5831.html
http://www.panelook.com/LP171WU6-TLA2_LG Display_17.1_LCM_overview_5829.html
http://www.panelook.com/LTN170CT08-L01_Samsung_17.0_LCM_overview_8843.html

And these are all anti-glare FHD displays that I might consider: http://www.panelook.com/modelsearch...screen_main=No&surface_glare=AG&st=E9&by=desc

2. For the PxxSM. I was thinking of buying a second hand one, but only if I can upgrade the display to a 4K one or a 2K with 120Hz. Now I am a bit confused because I don't know how to pick that said P177SM. But this will come only later into play, first I let's do the M570TU.

 

Thanks .

' D r o p- i n Dr e a m Co l o r s' h e sa i d .. . y e s, i n de e d . .. i n y o u r dr e a m s .

Heck, anything's possible with enough effort, but an RGB LED backlight needs serious modifications. There's a few adapter boards that claim they can run these, but if you'd hook one up then you'd instantly kill the screen. That is, assuming their pictures are accurate; there's no separate 20-pin connector for the RGB backlight, so they're expecting to power the backlight through the regular 40-pin cable as if it's just a run-of-the-mill WLED (99% of all panels). This would be troublesome and for the same reason you cannot directly swap a CCFL to a LED.

That is also the second hurdle in your ambitious project. A CCFL using 2-lane LVDS can do away with a 30-pin connector because its backlight has a separate, high-draw cable for the tube(s). But a similar 2-lane LVDS LED display needs at least six extra pins due to combining the lcd+bl cable. So this $9 or this $25 for 5 option would be the adapter you'd need:

Spoiler: 30-pin CCFL + x-pin CCFL-bl input, 40-pin LED output

There's 9 slots because the CCFL backlight inverter cable has many different varieties. You can nicely see how it functions; the 30-pin CCFL end accepts your existing, non-bl cable and the 9-slot part can be used to divert the inverter cable to directly power the backlight pins on the 40-pin LED connector, side-stepping the CCFL inverter. Not sure whether they'll have brightness control, but the $25/5 adapter looks more promising; it clearly has 4 differentiating pins trailing from the bl adapter board and the whole cable uses semi-twisted pairs. The $9 version uses generic flat-ribbon cables, so it might see some display signal interference as well (EM noise).

With this adapter you can now run any 40-pin, 2-lane LVDS. Presumable it's 0.4mm pitch, though the listing doesn't mention this. Could inquire to make certain, of course. Anyway, skipping the nice RGB backlights that leaves either the LP171WU6-TLB2 or LP171WU6-TLA2.

Still need to source one; most listings are for 'compatible' screens. Best option is to buy a genuine, used model. There's two TLA2's on sale on ebay atm.

The P37xxM3 models will have a stock 120Hz eDP panel (which can also do 3D at 60 Hz). They'll have either the LP173WF2-TPA1 or the LP173WF2-TPB1.

For the P177SM you would have to check whether it has an LVDS or eDP panel prior to buying. With an LVDS a 2k/120Hz is easily achieved; if it's a TN then you probably don't even need a 'special' 120 Hz panel since they can already do 90 Hz and with a bit of luck up to ~150 Hz is possible. If it's an eDP then make sure it's a 40-pin panel; this system is a 2-lane and there's only a few 2-lane/40-pin eDP panels that can do 120 Hz. A 4k upgrade will not be possible due to its 2-lane limitation; only the P37xxMx models and the P570WM have the necessary 4-lane output.

 

Perfect reply! Thank you very much. Will get the necessary cables and screen and see how it all turns out. It will be interesting.

 

Going through the specifications of the LP171WU6-TLA2 here: https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf-file/909070/LG/LP171WU6-TLA2/1
And it writes: The LED backlight connector is a model TF12-9S-0.5H, which as I understand, would mean that the LED backlight has a separate connector? I thought that LED display uses the same 40pin connector to carry both signals and LED. I just want to make sure I am buying the right thing.

I had the DreamColor display on my old M17x R2, but that laptop crapped out after 2 years.