*** OFFICIAL AORUS X5 V6 OWNERS LOUNGE ***

Download and run 3DM Firestrike yourself. You don’t need to pay for the basic functionality.

 

TW?

It's Gigabyte USA which is dealing with it at the moment.


Also have you guys seen the post by some user on reddit who said that they use thermal pads for the cpu?

 

Ahhhh, US support. TW = Taiwan. Head office tech support is phenomenal. (h/t Rex @ HO).

Link to the reddit thread, if you please.

 

Here's the link for the reddit post.
The person has helpfully added a link to Imgur to show this too:
https://www.reddit.com/r/aorus/comments/8lt39o/aorus_x5_v6_fan_replacement_parts_sourcing/

 

That's really surprising, it's been over a year since I repasted my x5v7, but I'm 99% sure it had paste. I also don't recall a single person on this forum mentioning pads under the cpu. I wonder if whoever was applying the thermal compounds for that machine ran out of thermal paste and used the pads from the GPU memory.

 

TBH I am pretty sure that I had pads on my CPU the first time I repasted the CPU
I wasn't sure but the overlapping criss-crossed shape was there on my die

I'll just be happy if they manage to fix my device finally.
At this point, the device has been with the RMA department more than it has been with me.

If not, I think I'll have a talk with HQ

Edit 1: The pads that they use for for the GPU Memory are white whereas mine and the one that's there in the link are dark grey.
Also, are any of your pads melted or flowing all over the PCB?

 

Many of the notebook manufacturers use it. It's trash. And it's cheapest way to apply paste.

Thermal stamps. Not pads.


Exactly same as Dell prefered for their expencive overheating Alienware BGA gamingbooks.

 

So my brother, who has an X7 V6 shipped his device via UPS to the RMA people for a broken hinge and UPS sorta wrecked the laptop.

He's looking for a device worthy of replacing it. They say they will reimburse the laptop's retail price at the time of purchase so the max budget is hopefully 2200 dollars.

15.6" form factor with a GTX 1070 and a Gsync high refresh rate display. Preferably not Gigabyte/Aorus

Any suggestions?

@MiSJAH @Papusan @hmscott @knibbler
and anyone else

 

I think that's too vague of a description to get good suggestions. I would recommend heading over to http://forum.notebookreview.com/forums/what-notebook-should-i-buy.16/ and creating a thread there (follow the template).

 

Hey guys, My Aorus X5 V6 just stopped working.

It started when I was playing a game (like usual) and suddenly it froze and I had to shutdown holding the power button.
Then I turned it on again and started playing again, after a while same thing happend.
The third time I was not even playing, the notebook was cool and after 15 minutes it froze ( I wasn't even using it) .
After that I could never start OS again.

obs: Months before it happend I noticed my right side fan was spinning at lower speed than the left one, it was possible to see that it had some friction, I noticed it when I opened the notebook and tried to spin manually both of them. But it never caused me problems, despite running at the max temp (90 C) while playing.

The problem:

I can access BIOS and stay there how long I want without problems, but as soon as it tries to load the OS the keyboard lights turns off and the computer freezes.
I tested with multiples OS`s like bootable Ubuntu Pendrive, and differents HD. Always the same problem.
I tried a pen drive with ULTIMATE BOOT CD, like in BIOS I can stay there and navigate the menu without problem,
I did some RAM and VIDEO tests, worked fine, but every time I click to make any of the CPU tests available in the UBCD (Like calculate prime numbers) the keyboard lights turns off and computer freezes at the same moment, so I think is something with the CPU.

Curious thing: When I tried to boot with a bootable pen drive containing All In One System Rescue Toolkit (modified linux for diagnostics), I was lucky once and it started, I was able to access the linux desktop for some seconds and I was happy but soon enought it froze and I could never make it work again, always freezing in the first seconds.

It turns out the SSD was damaged, (maybe from overheating), but I took off the SSD to make the tests and didn't help, I'm trying to find the other problem now.

I don't even know if is possible to upgrade or repair the CPU :/ , anyone could give me some light?

I don't know if this is related to the problem but when I tried to boot into Ubuntu Live Pendrive, this screen shows before freezing, sometimes it freezes even before.

 

These aorus laptops have to be used with a cooler underneath for long gaming sessions.
I had the X5 and have the X9 currently and the motherboard gets very hot regardless of the cpu/GPU temps.

 

I've had fan issues with my p35x, so i'm not surprised. Anymore, I just run games windowed with HWmon displayed. I pre-emptively turn the fans on 100% every time I turn a game on.

Not sure what cooked yours; if it was heat or something else. Gigabyte does not yet understand how to make a thermally efficient gaming rig. I second the "use a laptop cooler" sentiment. I even bought a desktop so that I can stop using mine all the time--just to try and extend what is clearly going to be a premature death. Oh, and I have a line of pixels out on my monitor too. HW issue...it's there on the bios.

Wish I could say build quality was better, but these are not well made according to any non-Apple standards.

 

I took my notebook to 3 places for technical assistance, 2 of them had no clue, one place tested in a Windows 8 and surprisingly it worked, I used for 1 minute and it seems everything was fine, I think the reason it worked on Windows 8 is because of Legacy mode, but why my notebook can't boot into any UEFI OS anymore? Is there a hardware problem that may explain this? Why I couldn't make it work with the All In One System Rescue Toolkit , I'm almost sure it is legacy too. I don't even know if it makes senses but I know that any UEFI boot the notebook simply freezes. I'm so confused.

 

Could be that your UEFI got corrupted; I would re-flash and see if it resolves things

 

How do I re flash UEFI witho no OS, in the BIOS it shows no option to update or anything close, is there a way to clear the motherboard CMOS in this notebook?

 

I don't recall x5 having a CMOS reset pin (I don't recall if holding the power button for 10 seconds is equivalent to CMOS reset, but I would try that first; you'll see the machine start, stop, and start at which point release the power button), so you likely will have to do it manually by taking the back cover off of disconnecting the main battery and the CMOS battery for about 15 seconds.

As for re-flashing the UEFI, you'll likely need to load the fimware onto a usb drive and 'boot' from it, at which point the firmware utility would install the UEFI; however to get the image you'll likely need to reach out to Aorus support.

 

I re flashed the BIOS(UEFI) and nothing changed, I tested my CPU with Intel Processor Diagnostic Tool for UEFI and the test failed in both of the following tests:
--- Reading CPU Frequency ---
Expected CPU Frequency is --> 2.70GHz
Detecting CPU Frequency ...
Detected CPU Frequency --> 1.0666
CPU Frequency Test Failed!!!

and

--- Running Base Clock test ---
Expected Base Clock --> 133 MHz
Detected Base Clock --> 41 MHz
Tolerance accepted --> 7
!!! --- Base Clock test Fail --- !!!

I think I found the problem, but don't know how to solve it .....

 

SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
I recently restarted my X5, and guess what?!
I am on an infinite boot cycle where I can't get into the OS. I check around the BIOS to see if anything is amiss.
Big surprise!
THE NVME SSD CANNOT BE DISCOVERED BY THE LAPTOP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I don't think that my SSD is loose or something because I was playing siege earlier today.
Could it be that my SSD has failed?
Please help fast!!!

 

What sized thermal pads for the X5V7?

Thanks.

 

I came here to ask exactly that.. Anyone have any guidance on the thickness of thermal pads required for the X5 V6/V7?

 

Hopefully we'll get a response. Maybe one of the bespoke laptop companies would know?

@Donald@HIDevolution

 

i don't think that they would share that kind of information as that would give customers a reason to purchase from them instead of a competitor... would be great if they could though seeing as the v6 and v7 models would be old stock now. it was actually results posted on the temperatures of one of their machines that made me want to redo mine.

 

You think they're more concerned losing a couple of bucks worth of business for thermal pads than supporting the community and potentially netting the next notebook upgrade?

That would be somewhat shortsighted in my not so humble opinion.

 

I've ordered 0.5, 1.0 and 1.5mm thermal pad, I'm not sure how long it will take over the christmas/new years period to get delivered, but I have some feeler gauges so I'll figure it all out and post it up. Just need to wait for it all to arrive so it could be a few weeks.

 

Sorry, you posted after we closed for the weekend.

Technicians won't be back to work until Tuesday, at which time I can check to see if they still have that data for v6 and v7, since the most recent units we built were v8.

However, the best way to determine the size is by properly analyzing the clearances on your particular laptop.

 

Thanks for the reply.

What tools would be best to measure that sort of gap?

 

Missed your reply.

Thanks, look forwards to your updates.

What brand pads did you buy?

 

Open up and properly analyzing your <old pads>. Check the imprint from the components (Use your eyes). Too much and then try put slightly thinner pads. Screw down let it be on a while, then open again... Check. Or just use softer pads of same thickness.

 

AORUS units come with paste not pads.

Will get a bunch of pads and try.

Thanks.

 

HaHa. Several ways to cheap out. A nice solution if they haven’t properly QC on Heatsink finish or components used Yeah, then you haven’t much other choices.

 

I may as well liquid metal the CPU and GPU while I have it opened up

 

I bought Gelid GP Extreme (12w/mk).

lol.. i read that thread when i bought my aorus, be careful this time hey.

i did liquid metal on mine a week after i bought it, so i'll need to redo that as well. have also seen that the block and pipes can be separated and repasted so will be doing that too.

 

anyone else have the usb-c not work? tried two different usb-c-to-regular-usb hubs, both cheap amazon hubs. plugged usb mouse into hubs. plugged hubs into usb-c port on x5v6. never worked.

 

I don't know whether I have asked this before or not, but does anyone know if any of the m.2 slots on the X5 V6 (or V7 or V8 for that matter) are connected directly to the CPU or to the chipset.
@MiSJAH @Papusan @Svegetto @hmscott @knibbler @inperfectdarkness @g85222456

If connected directly to the CPU, we can use the m.2 slots that are essentially PCIE 3.0 x4, and using risers, connect RTX cards to our laptops. to improve the longevity. Sure they won't be "laptops" and portable, but atleast we can use them for a longer time and enjoy new technologies on our devices without buying an entirely new unit.

The performance drop due to the lesser number of lanes is around 9% average at 1080p, and decreases as we scale up the resolution with the drop being 8% at 1440p and just 6% at 4K. These are for 2080 Tis and for non-raytraced games only so I don't know what the scaling is for ray tracing workloads.

The link for the article is below:

https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/NVIDIA/GeForce_RTX_2080_Ti_PCI-Express_Scaling/

 

slots that support nvme are x4 pcie lane slots. you should be able to just plug one of these suckers in for $70

https://www.gearbest.com/laptop-accessories/pp_229101.html

but you're going to have to cut a hole in the bottom of the laptop for the cables as well.

 

The ting I was asking was whether the PCIE x4 lanes are connected directly to the CPU or are they connected to the CPU via the motherboard chipset. If it is via the chipset then there may be latency that could make the solution unviable.

 

what kind of latency are you expecting? latency between cpus and chipsets is measured in nanoseconds, it's not something you're going to notice. most of the latency will be from the cable between the m2 slot and the egpu as it's the longest path to take, but it will likely still be less than a millisecond.

regardless, the 6820hk has 16 pcie lanes, it would depend on if the gpu is setup with the full 16 or only 8. the HM170 chipset provides another 16 pcie lanes configured as either x1, x2 or x4.

as a complete stab in the dark, if any of those m2 slots are direct to the cpu, maybe it's the one that was dropped on the x5 v7 as one of the drive slots was dropped for thunderbolt. i believe it's the horizontal one closest to the battery.

 

Given that the smallest delays can cause huge input lag and destroy the gaming experience.

There are only 16 PCIE lanes that are allocated to the 6820HK, whereas HM170 chipset also has 16 PCIE lanes. I do not know how the chipset is connected to the CPU so I do not know how long it takes for data transfer from the chipset to the CPU and vice versa. I believe that the average time taken for communication between the CPU and the GPU over PCIE 3.0 16x connection is in the microseconds so having a delay of 3 orders of magnitude higher would be sort of detrimental

Oh man if that was the case I'd be so happy and so lucky. Let's see what happens. The only thing that I can do now is trial and error. Lets see which m.2 slot is connected directly to the CPU.

 

let us know the results. i'm keen to see how it goes.

 

That'll have to wait cuz my laptop is currently in RMA.

Also will need help overclocking cuz When I thought that I knew what I was doing, I was way in over my head when overclocking. GPU power states, stability and ****. I'm just frustrated at this point...

 

Hey guys
So my SSD just failed on my laptop.
I do not know how or why the SSD failed, and frankly I don't care what caused it.
What I do care about is that they (Gigabyte RMA) are saying that they will not return the damaged drive to me. I asked if they could recover the data from the drive and they said they don't do data recovery. When I asked whether they could return the drive to me for third party data recovery they said they couldn't because they have to run it for warranty with the SSD manufacturer.

Is there nothing that can be done?

 

That does seem reasonable since they don't want to loose money on a defective part from another manufacturer, though obviously unfortunate for you; it would have been nice if they had told you ahead of time to do any data recovery attempt before sending it in, or given you an option to do data recovery on the drive and then ship it back to them. Although I've never dealt with this in the past, I'd expect the same response from most laptop manufacturers.
I know hindsight is never fun, but I'd consider doing scheduled backups for things you don't want to loose (though I know that's not helpful to you right now, but honestly, I don't think you're going to get your data back in this situation)

 

Yeah man. It took some time to come to terms with. I had some data which I would very much want back but so is life, and has taught me a valuable lesson.

I do believe that the default windows FileHistory folder could have a backup of my data.

So many songs, movies and game saves to get back.

 

In Australia, the service centre is very clear that they do not return damaged drives, I would say that you're stuck.

In other news.. my Aorus is cooked. I was running liquid metal in it for over a year and everything was perfectly fine.. part of my investigation into the thickness of the thermal pads was that over summer my CPU started hitting some really high temps (92c) while my GPU would top out at about 47c, so my plan was remove the liquid metal, repaste with grease, replace goop with thermal pads.

On removing the heatsink, turns out the liquid metal had absorbed a bit more than expected into the heatsink compared to the GPU side, so I guess although I had great initial results there just wasn't quite enough LM for the long haul which in turn affected temps.

From what I can see with a bright light, it appears I must have dropped a bit of liquid metal and it got under the GPU chip. I now have a very similar view to what @MiSJAH had.




I have been quoted AU$1200 for repairs. Very expensive exercise. Even with a successful liquid metal, I wouldn't recommend it just because the cleanup is incredibly difficult and stressful. Being as careful as possible and you just don't know if you've got it all.

Not at all proud of this and it's an absolute waste of money, but I thought it's worth sharing yet another cautionary tale to anyone else considering liquid metal in their laptop.

Another tip for anyone considering liquid metal. I've seen a lot of people recommend using liquid electrical tape, which is what I used. The maximum recommended temperature of the product I used is 130c, with a melting point higher than that. I thought that should be enough headroom over what the chips would be running at. Either it's not enough headroom or the data on the liquid electrical tape is incorrect as it had boiled and moved to the low side of the chip (toward front of laptop), meaning it was absolutely useless and I'm probably lucky my laptop didn't cook itself earlier.. not that it matters now anyway.


As far as the thermal pads go though.. I have the following info

Existing thermal pads are all measured at 1mm
VRAM - measured gap of 0.5mm with feeler gauge, will need to install 1mm or 0.75mm if available
VRM - 1.5mm seems to be the sweet spot.

I can't give results on the pads because of obvious reasons.

 

Hello all,
I just got a x5 v6 for xmas and I have been having some temp issues. I was an idiot and did not record any temps officially before repaste so all I have is after a few Thermal Grizzly Kryptonaut repastes.

TimeSpy with TGK: GPU ~81 CPU ~95
TimeSpy with TGK and undervolt(TS): GPU~81 CPU~86
Note that these are max temps

I have a gradient of sorts in that all of the cores are at different temps in ~14 degree range of each other with some pretty crazy spikes and drops throughout the test around 10-20 degrees +- in a x<1sec span. I think that my heatsink for the CPU is not properly seated (since I have done multiple repastes in the hopes of addressing the problem idk I could just be the absolute worst at it) or the laptop has some prior overclock damage that is causing this (no idea if this is a thing as I always do really gentle OC so as not to cause issues but I have no experience with OC damage problems).
My GPU appears to be okay running around 80 during time spy and I am running with the fans at max auto. Does anyone have any ideas? I know it would be weird but could anyone lend/sell me a cpu heatink assembly that I could test with? If anyone has a broken x5 v6 I could buy for parts I would be interested in the whole thing since mine also came with a broken hinge and some other cosmetic damages.

 

before doing anything else i would re-apply the thermal paste, i have always spread the paste out over the cpu / gpu with a card of some description, i have found that in laptops an old sim card will work for spreading the paste. make sure all your screws are tight but not over tight. when tightening your screws, progressively tighten them in an x pattern like you were doing the wheel nuts up on a car. double check all the screws as you might tighten one which will result in another being loose. also make sure you have plugged the fan power back into the board.

i'm not sure you'll find a heatsink available. i have just recently found out that the assembly is ~AU$200 from gigabyte. they won't sell it to you separately, they'll only provide it as part of a repair. good luck in your search if you go down that route!

 

Unfortunately, I did follow the x pattern and double checked every bolt as well as used the included spreader from Thermal Grizzly. At this point I am about to run out of the $30 worth of thermal grizzly I bought and I have almost nothing to show for it. I have done 4 total applications of the thermal grizzly and I simply cant do any more unless I can do something genuinely different. I suppose my question now is: is there really a too tight option here? I have just been going down until the bolt stops (metal on metal I believe) is this wrong should I be lightening up before I get to the stopping point of the bolt?

 

Do not tighten it too much. It will damage the chip and you will have to shell out a lot more to fix that.
If you have access, machine the surface and buff it to make it as flat as possible.

Otherwise,you can try and finding a good thermal pad like the Hitachi HM 03, although I don't see them being retailed anywhere
Another alternative that you can try are these fujiploy ones: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...rmal_Conductivity_110_WmK.html?tl=g8c487s1288

People apparently swear by them

Or since you're using Thermal Grizzly, http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/produkte/6-minus-pad

Although thermal pads are not ideal, they will definitely help with the gradient that you see by ensuring proper contact even with terrible surface finish and uneven mounting pressures.
Just to improve things further, put a slight coating of your thermal grizzly on both the heatsink and ihs for both the CPU and GPU to help.

 

Thank you noss and Shauryya. I loosened the bolts up a bit and got ~2-5 degrees lower temps on the GPU (1st try woot although it wasn't really the problem in the first place) and ~1-2 on the CPU (5th try?). the CPU got worse when I first loosened all bolts and got better after I tightened the front screws and loosened the rear ones.

Shauryya I am wondering if I can actually get better temps by adding thermal pads. I do believe that the temps would be more even but I do wonder if they would be higher overall since the pads are far worse at heat transfer. Would this likely be the case? Also I think I would avoid the pads on the GPU since I dont think it has uneven mounting issues like the CPU unless someone can confirm I have particularly bad GPU temps does anyone have some temps I can compare to with a benchmark?

The problem overall is that I cant play something as taxing as Witcher 3 without heating up into the high 90s and then throttling hard. With all of the adjustments I have made so far I think that the GPU might be able to stay under 90 and the CPU is doing better but it most definitely climbs into the 90s after a few minutes is this normal for this laptop? I dont assume so so since I have read about people overclocking this thing a fair amount (which I get is dependent on bin but makes me assume I should at least be able to maintain decent temps for long gaming periods at stock.) Also on an unrelated note is it possible to undervolt this 1070 in MSI afterburner to get better temps as well? I tried to change the cfg file as I have had to in the past for a laptop but it wont give me voltage access for some reason. Thanks again for the help!

 

what are your CPU temperatures at idle? 90s are high for the CPU, but i do believe that these laptops when gaming the CPU will warm up a bit, i'm assuming because of thin chassis and just not enough heat pipe.

as a guide this guy with his x5 v6 https://imgur.com/gallery/ltm0VsN claims he is geting 64c CPU and 76c GPU in time spy after a repaste with kryonaut.

if you want to go down the thermal pad path i will also throw out there the gelid extreme thermal pads https://gelidsolutions.com/thermal-solutions/accessories-gp-extreme/ which are cheaper than fujipoly and transfer 12w/mk. i'd probably get them in 0.5mm or 1mm but they will become firm and crumbly when both heat an pressure are applies. most of these high end thermal pads don't actually have a much lower thermal transfer than pastes, for example:

arctic silver - 8.9w/mk
noctua nt-h1 - 8.5w/mk
kryonaut - 12.5w/mk

thermal pads are what the laptop comes with and they have quite reasonable thermals out of the box, so they can't be all that bad.. paste should improve your thermals though.


question.. when you say "you have almost used the whole $30 syringe" what size syringe in that? for me an AU$30 syringe is the big 5g sucker if i shop around enough, it should last way more than 4 applications. if you're using a 1g syringe though then you're on the money with how much you're using. do you have pictures of your paste application? negative affects of thermal paste application can come from not only applying too little, but also applying too much. if the paste doesn't ooze out and remains trapped between the heatsink and chip it can end up acting as an insulator... it should ooze out though, but i have seen desktop CPUs where it hasn't and there has been quite a thick layer of paste resulting in warmer temps.