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@Jared_T @Flux42 and anyone else.

Can you help me unpick my temps/power limit throttling issues?

Running XTU stress test for ten minutes with auto max fan profile at level 4 CPU overclock (no GPU overclock).





I'm certain this is too hot/having issues.

Anyone want to point out what I am missing?

@hmscott any suggestions?

 

You need to fix the overheating problem before you start to raise the power limits (Turbo boost short power max/Turbo boost Power max). Start to see if you can run with lower voltage. Aa well do a re-paste with a good quality thermal paste.

 

Would you consider this to be acceptable on a factory fresh notebook?

 

No. And your unlocked 6820Hk run only 3.7GHz on all 4 cores.

 

Well I got similar results on the default profile. It's meant for gaming where you only use one or two cores. That's at least what aorus told me. To be fair they offered to take a look. I personally run at 4ghz on all cores @-150V stable if plugged in (not on battery for some reason). I have a 7th gen though.

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

 

I get similar results playing Far Cry 5 for 20 minutes. Had a crash and restart after gaming for 30 minutes.

 

Hmm, I thought you would know better than this? You've undervolted before right? How could you apply a positive overvolt of +30mV? You don't need it at those multipliers.

You have a positive overvolt of +30mV and you bumped your cache multiplier up from 36x to 38x along with the cores, both will unnecessarily overheat your CPU.

Use an undervolt, start at -100mV to start, and fix your cache at stock 36x while starting with a 4x core multiplier of 38x - just for first testing. Find the highest undervolt there, maybe as high as -150mV or more, some have gotten upwards of -220mV at stock core settings.

Then bump up the 4x core multiplier to 39x, then 40x and reduce the undervolt accordingly.

Next time also post a screen shot of your full sliders/settings XTU screen too, please. We can discuss the power settings later.

Many slim, or even larger laptops will get hot out of the box before undervolting, that's why reviewers show hot CPU's on stress tests, and owners that undervolt don't have that problem. Undervolting -100mV drops 100% 4 core load temps by 10C.

 

All the settings are stock via the AORUS overclocking app.

I want some stability at these before I attempt my own settings.

Thanks for taking the time to answer @hmscott


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

You might have said that, and not shown XTU, as that makes it look like you are using XTU settings

So, weirdly, the Aorus overclocking app is *adding* 30mV overvolt itself?? That's effectively 130mV over the average voltage needed at that performance. Maybe even more, my example is forgoing -100mV and adding +30mV for a total of 130mV overvolt, or -130mV undervolt opportunity lost.

Crazy, whoever that engineer is that did that needs some XTU and OC lessons.

What is the name of the setting you set in the Aorus OC app? It couldn't have been the top OC as the cores were staggered, without all 4 cores set the same.

That's pretty weak

 

OK, 3.9 is stable with -100mv.

4 is stable at -70mv but has temp issues still.....

 

Did you try -100mV @ 4ghz?

Or more, some get a lot more, maybe keep increasing undervolt by -10mV until you see Blue, then back off +5mV and see if you are stable, then +1mV until you are stable at load - then let it sit for 30 minutes with no programs loaded, and see if it is idle stable.

Also, small slim laptops tend to have slow auto fan curves, so you will register a high peak temperature including a thermal throttle toggle, but once the fans ramp up the temps drop within reason.

Turn on logging for the hwinfo64 - 2 sec sample interval - then look at the whole run - see if the peak is only reached occasionally and when the fan ramps up that it cools much lower - what temp?

What I do when running auto fan is to click the hwinfo64 reading reset button, buttons are on the panel at the bottom of the temperature readings dialog, I click it when I hear the fans ramp up and that skips the initial peak / thermal throttle reading.

Or, run fans at 100%.

So when you get a best undervolt, tune the fan's profile for gaming use - ramp up sooner (start at lower temp) and run fans faster / higher rpm.

You may also need to uninstall the vendor OC tuning app, if it uses XTU for settings it may override your XTU settings. I know with MSI Dragon Gaming Center it limits CPU 4 core OC to 4.1ghz (41x), but in XTU I can set it to 45x and it won't collide with DGC setting - XTU overrides it - until you change a setting in DGC then 41x overrides XTU and you have to go back in XTU and select the Profile you set up and Apply it, again.

So I recommend uninstalling the Vendor tuning tool, with MSI there is a tool call SilentOption that lets you set up fan profiles for MSI laptops, so you aren't missing fan tuning if you uninstall the vendor all-in-one tuning tool. You'll need to find Aorus's fan tuning tool, if there is a standalone one.

 

Yes, I tried -100mV @ 4Ghz and it restarted, the same at -90 and -80.

I just ran a 5 min stress test and reset hwinfo64 after the initial peak temps of 95°C, then averages around the 85°C mark.

XTU benchmark gives 1301 marks.

 

Which CPU is this?, hwinfo64 column cuts off the CPU name.

Well -70mV is great for 4.0ghz on 4 cores. Starting from the previous +30mV overvolt you are actually at an effective -100mV undervolt from that previous overvolt now.

Did you try -75mV or 74,3,2,1?

Great, so if you can get the fans to kick in sooner, and run faster at lower temps, you can preempt any thermal throttle peaks without needing to run the fans at 100% all of the time.

You can try reducing the cache multiplier, it often won't reduce performance, up to a point - then it does - but that can reduce temps too.

Also run balanced Power Plan instead of High Performance, and let the cores downclock when not under load. You lose a small edge of performance at the starting edge as it clocks up, but since Skylake and now Kabylake Intel has been shaving that performance loss down. And, it's a big heat load drop to let the cores downclock especially if only the first 1-3 cores are under any load.

Also, for gaming try setting core 0 higher at say 4.2ghz, and then reduce multiplier per additional core, like 40x, 38x, 36x, can provide high single and dual threaded performance with additional cores adding less thermal load. Something to play with anyway.

You should be able to tune out thermal peaks enough to avoid re-pasting, average around 85c during normal use is great. You don't *need* to reduce the temps further by re-pasting.

 

Thanks again.

CPU is 6820hk.

I’ll try using some of these when I get home.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Ahh, for a 6820HK you are doing great

You might not reach 4.2ghz on even 1 core, or it may be too hot, but it's worth trying, maybe 4.1ghz is doable.

Your undervolt is great for a 6820HK too.

I'd maybe shoot for 4x 40x + 34x on cache at your undervolt, maybe try that 42x(or 41x)/40x/38x/36x + 34x cache, maybe even a 40x/40x/36x/36x, or some such to trim heat load down if gaming gets the CPU hotter than you like.

Have fun

 

@archimedia1 With HWinfo64, https://www.hwinfo.com/download.php you could verify the wear level of your battery...

 

On my x7Dt v7 i push my cpu @4.0Ghz with -130mv and it give me reasonable temperature on game ... and then Assassin's creed Origin appeared ... this game can push the cpu up to 100% ... so even with undervolt i reach 95°C (on other game (the majority) that consume max 60% of cpu usage, i was below 85°C). So the choice is to play @4.0Ghz undervolt on regular title and for game that need all the cpu horsepower to run it @3.6Ghz undervolt.

Or you can replace the thermal paste with liquid metal only on the cpu, and see your temperature goes down by 10°C (but with all the risk that comes with the lm).
Now i can overclock my CPU @4.1Ghz (undervolt -110mv) and it never exceed 83/84°C under heavy load.
In addition, i also undervolt my gpu (tuning my curve with afterburner 1860/1873Mhz @950mv)) it allow the gpu to reduce his heat and power (20/30w less power with the performanec level of an overclocking egual to +100core/+300vram). like the cpu and gpu shared the same heatsink, it help also the cpu.

 

Are those game readings with 60fps / 60hz or? I've found reducing the FPS with RTSS to refresh rate (60hz/60fps, 120hz/120fps, 144hz/144fps) greatly reduces CPU / GPU load, those extra frames rendered over refresh are effectively wasted, G-sync / Vsync limits FPS too. Unlimited FPS can quickly runaway thermally.

 

No, that temp are with vsync and gsync off ... (thanks liquid metal
With gsync vsync on (with an old game like bioshock 2 for example), the drop in temperature is even greater (bioshock 2 remaster run @ 120fps with a gpu usage of 60 to 70%) and then you got temperature around 70°C

So yes, you are right an other way to reduce the heat is (for game that run above 60fps ) to activate Vsync/gsync, or limit the fps to 60.
But i admit that when you buy an QHD 120Hz screen, you don't want to limit your fps to 60

Btw i also replace the thermal paste on vram/vrm by thermal pad 17W/mk (i think that much cheaper thermal pad 11 or 14 w/mk are sufficient, but i admit that i don't want to made try and correct test, so i buy the best possible pad

 

Seems you all forgot the high core temp difference (hot vs coldest core). Cripple performance with lower cashe vs normal for multi and as well use balanced power plan in Win Power plans to manage ok temp is a wasted time. Fix the underlying problem. Not cover/ wrap it in all sorts of crippling performance solutions. Please also run Cinebench R15. Post scores with pictures.

 

Maybe i forgot the high core temp difference because, this phenomenon doesn't concern my X7DT

 

thanks I will try this - it's supposed to be a new laptop - bought as new from Laptopsdirect.co.uk - I know it's the previous model but the components should have been checked I would think.

 

Wear Level = 0%

 

Actually I didn't know what your panel refresh was, display's have been 60hz for a long time, so that's my go to example. I updated my post to include 120hz / 120fps, 144hz / 144fps limits too.

Even limiting frame rate at 120 FPS / 144 FPS you can see reduced thermals, and that's my point, again with the undervolt, tuning of the fans, *and* stop runaway thermals with limited frame rates by enabling refresh linked FPS limit, you can avoid re-pasting.

Being a software engineer, and a hardware engineer, I look first for the physically non-intrusive - and totally *FREE* - software tuning before resorting to hardware hacking.

I can do the software tweaks in minutes, while the hardware hacks take hours. Big win, small expense of time and effort, with Zero risk.

Having done both software and hardware hacks extensively over many years, I don't need the adrenaline rush of pulling apart a brand new laptop.

I just want to get to work, or gaming, and software tuning solves it all for me 99% of the time.

Glad you got it all working so nicely.

 

Running it now with said settings and no undervolt. About 7 and a half minutes left in the test. No throttling so far. Running at 3.7Ghz

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

 

@MiSJAH the C&C app adds some voltage for some reason but i did not run in to any throttling as in your case

 

Most likely he tested with higher ambient/or worse thermal paste job. Compare the Cpu Package Power.... The power consumption rises with temperature (because of I2R losses). Thats the reason you don't run into same throttling mess. Higher wattage = More heat.

 

Despite using CC, the best tool still XTU where you can OC the Cpu and undervolt it in the same time, allowing cooler temperature. I know that CC use also XTU but the setting done by CC are awfull, they allow some stability on a lot of cpu but they increased a lot the heat generated by the cpu.

You can use XTU without uninstalling CC, for that on CC put OC level to 0 (no oc) then launch xtu, make your own setting and save as a profile.
You can made different profile for example: a 4Ghz profile for game that have a maximum cpu usage of 60% ( The majority of games don't use more than 4 thread) ...
Then a profile @3.8Ghz or even 3.6Ghz (with undervolt up to maybe -130mv) for game that put an heavyload on the cpu like assassin's creed origin. It will allow you to have less heat on the cpu. Btw even @3.6Ghz it represent a +400Mhz core frequency as the i7 6820HK is at 3.2Ghz with 4 core by default, and a majority of game won't be limited at 3.6Ghz. Before repasting with liquid metal, it's what i do on my i7 7820HK to have temperature that don't exceed 85°C.

You can also undervolt your Gpu but i warn you that it's a long task to have an efficient curve (aggresive curve could result in performance loss)
https://linustechtips.com/main/topi...-something-every-pascal-owner-should-look-at/

Undervolting your gpu allow you to reach oc level on your gpu ith less voltage ... that will reduce the power consumption and the TDP ... it could be an impressive 20/30W less power ... and less power mean less heat ... and with a shared heatsink, it will also give more space for the CPU.

Then like Hmscott suggest if your game exceed the refresh rate of your screen, you can activate vsync/gsync to reduce the load on your Gpu (less load = less heat)

Someone ask here the difference beetween the QHD panel in the V6 and V7, there is no difference in term of color accuracy, black level etc ... the only difference is that on the v7 they correct an issue of the v6 panel (the phenomenon of horizontal line). I can share the pantone profile of may V7 but i doubt it will give you better result.

 

Make sure you're both running the same version of C&C as they keep changing the voltages of the OC steps with different versions of the tool. Keep in mind that their goal is stability, not thermals as their 'average' customer would be upset if they weren't able to overclock to 'x' in C&C or BSODs, but their less likely to notice and complain about extra TDP.

 

Once you have your own profiles you like, I would recommend overwriting the Aorus C&C ones with them; that way you can change to 5 custom profiles via C&C (and 5 is usually enough for most).

 

Thanks a lot for this advise i admit that it's great to use the C&C slider to change our custom XTU profile + it allow to load an undervolt profile at windows start without additional work

 

The ThrottleStop Guide

 

Thanks @Papusan i admit that now that i have made all my profile under XTU and that i don't have overheat and throtlte, i don't think about changing the "tuning" software.
But maybe on my future laptop, indeed ThrottleStop seem to add some great features such as dynamically load a failsafe profile in case of reaching really hot temperatures.

 

With ThrottleStop you can switch between 4 power profiles with a single key command (clocks will change within milli secunds). And TS doesn't eat any processor clock cycles as the other bloatwares with nice colorful useless graphs.

 

Hey man,
Do you mind sharing your color profiles?
I am getting my laptop back after RMA after 3 weeks.
Honestly the RMA process was actually pretty smooth here and the most time consuming process was the shipping of parts and the product from taiwan to US.
They replaced my Keyboard and the Thermal module for no charge too, once I gave them the pertinent information regarding the case.
IMHO, the RMA process wasn't as bad as I thought! Let's wait and see how good of a job these guys have done.

Also, have there been any bios or software updates pushed by Gigabyte?

I read in a previous post on the thread that you can use the MSI Dragon Center on this laptop. Is it true?! Can I control the fan and fan profiles from there? That's the only reason I stuck with C&C.
Nice to see that people are still supporting and discussing on this forum.

Cheers!

 

mine is on 3.6.3. i think the only diff between @MiSJAH and i is that i'm running TG kryonaut and i believe he is still runnning stock thermal compound

 

I can share, but it's a colour profile for the QHD 120Hz Tn panel included in the X7DT v7 (same panel included in the alienware 17R4)
For the bios , just launch the software called "driver update", there is a line that indicate your Bios version and the bios that is proposed by gigabyte ... if the version is newer just clic on it to launch the download and the update..

No need of the dragon center as C&C do the same thing ...

 

Command & Control is actually pretty good. I’ve got (5) different profiles setup through xtu, and saved in the command control folder, 3600/3700/3800/3900/ and 4000 so it applies at startup whichever one is selected. Plus my fans can only be controlled through c&c anyways, so it’s just easier..

You also have a really easy way of knowing if it’s stable, move that slider in C&C to a profile that’s undervolted to much and surprise! Locked system.. lol

I could just never get accustomed to Throttle stop. I’ve tried, and I may give it another shot some day if I’m bored.

Command control doesn’t each much resource, because xtu is not running in the back ground.

5.8 second boot times.

 

As requested
Here the pantone profile for the QHD 120Hz monitor of the X7DT v7
Monitor Name: AU Optronics [Unknown Model: AUO1496]
Monitor Name (Manuf): AUO B173QTN01.4

http://dl.free.fr/hHzpHknty

For using it https://pcmonitors.info/articles/using-icc-profiles-in-windows/

 

Thank you for the color profile. Will test it out over the weekend when I receive the laptop.

For anyone who has had a V6 and a V7, if you have opened the laptop up and seen the space where the fans spaces are on the top side of the V7, is it possible to work on the chassis and create similar cuts on the body of the V6? I suppose they will greatly help with the cooling capacity of the laptop.

Also does anyone know of devices that can populate the m.2 slot excluding wifi cards and SSDs?

 

Video capture card? http://www.avermedia.com/professional/product/cn311_h/overview

 

Bah that's useless.
Finally got my laptop back and m proud to be typing from it. They keyboard reminds me a lo of the macbook butterfly keys *pukes*
Anyway
The colour profile that you sent over had a bit of a red tinge on this display. Will rock it out for a few days and test a few games to see which is better.
For some reason my C&C folder does not have the files for the color gamut. Can someone please post them on the forum?
GPU OC is down the drain idk what the hell is happening with it. Random artifacting and stuff.
Will post my OC tomorrow. Have managed to get 3.8GHz on 3 cores and 3.7 on 4 core load at -115mV and 62C
Stay tuned ;-)


P.S. Sorry I forgot to tag you guys here. Sill don't know how to tag people

 

So here are the results of my Undervolt:
3.9Ghz upto 3 cores & 3.8Ghz on 4 cores at -115mv


I like this a lot since the temps are *lit*
1301 Benchmark in the XTU suite

Before I post a GPU score it seems that despite whatever I do, I cannot send my CPU to a speed above 3.99GHZ on the cores and 4.01GHZ on the Cache
What do I DO?

Update 1: The CPU Cache Frequency seems to be locked with the CPU Core Frequency. BIOS at fault?
Update 2: The OC seems a bit unstable for me. Could someone please check it out? Thank You
Update 3: Gigabyte apparently makes their own thermal compound.

 

Where does xtu save profiles so I can move them to the c&c oc folder?

Thanks.

 

Right click on the C&C app and open file location. Go to CPUOC and then X5X7V6 folder and there all of them are saved.


Furthermore, when I do a cpu burner and any other gpu burner test on any thing (AIDA64, MSI Kombustor, etc) and in the graphs GPU Usage drops to 0 for a frame or two. Whats wrong?
Also could someone please help me with update 1 and 2 of my previous post?

 

Okay,
So I applied the color profiles provided by @Tonrac . They were kinda much more red than I would like. What I found to be better, without professional calibration, was increase the brightness to max, go to nVidia control panel, adjust desktop color settings and then increasing digital vibrance to 65%. This trick, although cannot holde a candle to any OLED or HDR disply, can be pretty appealing when in full brightness. In lower brightness levels; however, this can make certain colors (predominantly those which are pure colors like red green and blue) to pop out unnaturally. This popping is only troublesome if we go above 65% vibrance. Change your vibrance settings to your wish! Also I found it most effective in the D6800 color profile so your mileage may vary.

Cheers!

P.S. Please answer my questions on my two previous posts. Thanks

 

Could someone please post the default XTU settings over here?
I deleted them and cannot find them anywhere.

 

If you mean the Aorus ones, then you can just reinstall C&C and you'll get them back

 

They aren't coming back

 

UPDATE

nb-bios-x5v6-win7-bios-fa07-fc07-ec-f003.zip
BIOS FA07 FC07 & EC F003
Update CPU Microcode